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The Bear

Member Since 24 Feb 2013
Offline Last Active Apr 13 2014 06:05 PM
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Topics I've Started

Pas Pressure Switch... Anyone Know The Testing Procedure?

11 April 2014 - 10:39 AM

Hi guys, hope you're well.

 

As above, really struggling to find a test procedure for this? I'm presuming it involves measuring resistance with engine on at various points (straight ahead, full lock etc)

 

And I also can't find any expected resistance values. I measured the resistance with engine off and wheels straight ahead... got 1.1 ohms (minus the 0.5 ohms in my leads)... 0.6 ohms doesn't sound right?

 

Any help you could furnish me with would be wonderful!

 

Cheers.

 

Steve.


Think I've Found The Reason For The Burning Smell At Speed...

19 March 2014 - 11:51 PM

Hi guys, hope you're well.

 

Well, did a service on my ma's ConFusion today. Got to the spark plugs and everyone was fine except no. 4. Took the plug out and it was covered in oil. Weirdly the hole wasn't filled with oil and the HT lead boot was dry....just the plug soaked in oil.

 

anyway I'm thinking the valve cover gasket has gone. Can anyone confirm that's correct and if not what the possible cause is.

 

I'm thinking this was the cause for the burning smell at 90mph I was getting. I looked the whole engine over and found no oil leaks whatsoever. So would this have caused a burning smell? And ps, is an after market gasket ok or do I need to go genuine to ensure this doesn't leak in then ear future?

 

Cheers guys :)

 

 


Centre Cubby Hole Removal

26 February 2014 - 10:00 AM

Hi guys,

 

I need to replace this as the cubby hole is constantly open and annoying me.

 

I undid the two securing screws but it still didnt want to come out. I assume i need to force it a little but is this correct? Don't want to break anything ;)


Brake Shoe Replacement ''how-To''

17 February 2014 - 07:49 PM

Hi guys,

 

I found a few pics from when I replaced the Fusion's brake shoes and as I have finally realised how to post pics I thought I'd do a little how to guide....if anyone's interested :)

 

I've had a quick look in the Haynes destruction manual and they do it a tad different to how I did it but my way was effective :)

 

1. Put in Park if auto or select a gear if manual. Chock front wheels. Release handbrake. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts. Jack up the rear and support on axel stands.

2. Remove rear wheels.

3. Remove the dust cap covering the axel nut. I just got a small chisel, dug in along its rim and lightly tapped. Came off no problem :) 

4. Have a willing volunteer to step on the brake pedal and remove the axel nut using a 30mm (I think) socket and long breaker-bar. This is done up to 235nm so is tight but with leverage it came off with no real fuss. If I was to have a lot of trouble with this I'd have put the road wheel back on with the centre cap removed, popped the handbrake on and tried it then...don't be afraid to use your girth by standing on the breaker-bar. Be careful though of course ;)

5. Remove the drum: I started by smacking the drum with a hammer to ''shock it'' and then tried to pull it off. It sort of got half way but got stuck (I imagine on a rust ridge on the drum) so I popped down to Halfords and purchased a brake drum puller. About £9 if I remember correctly made by ''Laser''. That got the drum straight off. You'll then be presented with picture 1. Cover your mouth with a particle mask and empty a can of brake cleaner on the shoes, springs etc (not literally the can ;))

6. Just below the largest retaining spring (blue spring) is an adjuster with a star wheel on the right hand side. Use a screw driver to back the shoes off so everything's slack (and therefore easier to remove). The adjuster may fall out at this point. If it does just keep it safe.

7. Remove the two shoe retaining clips that are held on by two respective pins coming from the back plate. Simply pinch them together and pull them out. They're really easy.

8. At this point I grabbed the shoes at their mid-points where the pin clips live. I pulled them outwards slightly and then towards each other so I've got a brake shoe pancake type thing. Do this slowly because you don't want that main spring pinging off and becoming a permanent part of your eye ball. Wear safety specs. You could of course try fighting that large spring and then removing the shoes. A lot of hassle though and you risk damaging the wheel cylinder in my opinion.

9. You will now have the whole shoe assembly in your hand as one piece (assuming springs didn't fly off) attached to the back plate only by the handbrake cable. Detach the handbrake cable by pulling the cable spring up and removing from the shoe (you'll see how to do this as it's easy).

10. You should now just have a naked backing plate. Clean it up with some more brake clean, light sand paper the 6 areas where the shoes ride and add a bit of anti-seize paste (copper grease). See picture 2.

11. The shoes are the same length from memory so there's no particular order they need to go in.

12. Replacement is the reverse of removal with only a few notes:

  • Clean up the inside of the drum with some fine emery cloth. Clean crud off with brake clean.
  • Fit the new assembly all together off the car (so assemble the shoes, springs, adjuster etc all together on the floor). Pick up this assembly as one piece and then ''spread'' the new shoes in to place. DON'T try and put it all back together in situ and then force the retaining springs on because you will damage a wheel cylinder as you force it back and forth. Ask me how I know this.....I dare you ;)
  • Secure retaining pins using the clips.
  • Then comes the tricky bit; adjusting the new shoes. I did it by turning the star wheel a few times to get a little bit of tension on the shoes/springs. Jump in the car and pump the pedal and activate the handbrake a few times as this will centralise the shoes. Then put the drum on and spin it. It will probably spin freely. Keep adjusting the star wheel until the brake drum has some resistance and only spins one full turn. Put the drum on, cake the stub axel and bearing assembly in grease and then put a NEW axel nut on. Torque up to 235nm. That's how I did it. I'm sure there's someone who does it differently but my brakes feel good and my handbrake was at the same as it was before I did the job (i.e. fully on at 7 clicks).

Ps, picture 3: this is what I did to keep track of where my springs went; I simply laid a brake shoe on the ground and lay components on to it.

 

HTH

 

:)


Auto Transmission Query

11 February 2014 - 07:10 PM

Hello. Again lol sorry for all the threads and posts  but I promise this is the last of the 'help' queries :)

 

Firstly, and I'm thinking this will be the easy bit, I am doing a service on the Con-Fusion and I want to change the ATF. Very grateful to Ford for putting a drain plug on the sump. Anyway the Haynes manual does not include any servicing guides for the autobox. Is it a case of draining the fluid with the engine cold and filling it up via the dipstick tube? Or does it need to be hot?

 

Secondly (and this will be the hard one)..... I'm stood at the lights and if I was to take my foot off of all the pedals and just let the car ''creep'' forward the car judders. The second I apply any throttle the juddering goes and the car drives sweetly. The gearbox fluid is full and in normal driving there's absolutely no slipping, juddering or anything and the box shifts almost unnoticeably. Just this ''creep judder''. Car only has 45k miles on and is a 2006 plate. What areas COULD it be. I'm thinking bent drive shaft or bad transmission. Anything else?     

 

Cheers