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wase16ll

Member Since 28 Feb 2013
Offline Last Active Jul 28 2014 09:39 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Well, She Failed...

31 May 2014 - 08:22 PM

headlight is just as likely to be the 'internal housing' causing the incorrect beam

 

if you google headlight beam pattern..should see plenty of examples to what you should see if you shone your dipped headlights against a flat surface  (such as a wall/garage door)

misalignment is a different fault...basicly the beam is correct but aimed too high/low/left or right

 

incorrectly fitted bulb, water inside headlight glass or insecure reflector or bulb holder are all main causes of incorrect beam.


In Topic: Mk6 Escort 1.8 Si Been Standing For 6 Yrs

31 May 2014 - 08:08 PM

just to add to whats already been suggested.

1..Timing belt...would be advisable to change before running the engine..no matter how little mileage its done since last change

2..Brake fluid...will still absorb water despite being dry stored

3..Coolant...recommend drain and a full flushing


In Topic: Co Emissions High: Overfuelling?

17 May 2014 - 11:18 PM

cannot suggest a code reader as its a long time since i plugged into an old ford..but from memory..

95 was, i think, the year a 16pin socket was fitted, but you often find there is the older type 3 pin socket under the bonnet too..it was the crossover point.

there are code readers that connected and read fault codes on these 16 pins, but they were also very limited beyond that, i.e, live data, system readiness etc...for that you need a genuine ford tester which can be very rare and pricey

if your looking for something purely to read codes, then cheapest route is to check if you have the 3 pin socket too, if so, Gunson do a connector for around £15, gives you the codes via a flashing LED, could probably pick one up on the internet for pennies, there was also people that manufactured their own readers that converted the flashing LED to text, do a search and you may find some up for sale...

for 16 pin readers..be careful, as the early Ford dont always work on the standard obd 1 and 11 readers...need to confirm if your ecu is EEC IV or EEC V, and ask if the reader is compatible for this system

 

if you have the 3 pin socket, i have a genuine Ford tester i can sell you cheaply, did advertise it here couple of months ago so should be somewhere on the for sale section, never got round to putting it up for offer anywhere else


In Topic: Airbag Light

17 May 2014 - 10:42 PM

i'll put it this way

disconnecting the battery and leaving for 5/10 mins before working on anything that maybe involved or close to, the air bag system is a foolproof and safe way to operate..

 

from experience, i've performed this particular operation many times on many different makes without disconnecting the battery, safe in the knowledge it wont trigger air bags.

this sensor wire will not trigger airbags, even if ignition is on, as its only purpose is to inform air bag ecu if there is an occupent on the offending seat, its not linked directly to any pyrotechnics of the system...BUT..

i would never perform this task with ignition on/engine running and would never actually reccommend verbally or written,  anyone to perform it with battery connected...just suggesting that its unecessary for this particular task

 

in your case, i would disconnect battery purely on the basis your not sure which is the relevent connector, (as i would under the circumstances) so therefore may interfere with connections that are linked to the pyrotechnics,


In Topic: Airbag Light

16 May 2014 - 10:31 PM

not sure, but the pressure sensor is fitted to the seat base, so check for wire that exits the base under the seat and follow it to the connector...just make sure key is out of ignition while playing around with the wire..no need to disconnect battery for the task though