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Member Since 28 Feb 2013
Offline Last Active Sep 30 2015 11:36 PM

#364748 Co Emissions High: Overfuelling?

Posted by wase16ll on 15 May 2014 - 10:32 PM

one other thing...the lambda sensors are the main sensors for setting/adjusting the fueling, so just because your lambda readings are fine, doesnt necessarily mean the lambda sensors must be ok.

the machine is measuring lambda from the exhaust gasses/tailpipe, not what the lambda sensors are doing...


a high lambda suggests a leak in the exhaust system, low lambda suggests an air leak before the lambda sensors...thats a very basic explanation, can get a bit more complicated than that but suffice to say, a correct lambda reading doesnt necessarily mean everything is hunky dory.

#364746 Coolant Leak Help Please

Posted by wase16ll on 15 May 2014 - 10:20 PM

could be the stat housing itself, often crack, so would suggest getting a stat and housing

#357070 Low Milage But Burning Oil :-/ Please Read

Posted by wase16ll on 25 April 2014 - 11:25 PM

wouldnt say that is excessive, as you said, these engines do tend to burn a bit, would say its only marginally above average.


check your breather hoses for signs of oil being sent through them, make sure they are clear and the pcv is clean.

regular oil changes are vital on this engine to get the most out of it, wouldnt normally find any sludge/carbon build up unless its been seriously neglected or been filled with incorrect grade.

the 5/30 burns quite cleanly, especially if its fully synthetic,  so dont always get signs of smoke unless its burning at a fair rate.


if all is looking good, maybe worth having the valve stem seals changed, they tend to get brittle with age and allow oil to bypass them...only other possible is if at anytime in its history its thrown a belt and bent the valves, if it has, it maybe worth having the valve guides checked/replaced if the burn rate gets higher, often overlooked and not uncommon to see some damage on the guides when the valves take a hit.


if your using fully synthetic 5/30..can always try changing it to a semi synthetic, as that will burn at a slower rate

#354342 What Causes Uneven Tyre Wear?

Posted by wase16ll on 16 April 2014 - 08:45 PM

sherman tanks tend to go cheap in army surplus stores  :)

#344940 Clutch Replacement Mk4 1.25 Zetec's

Posted by wase16ll on 19 March 2014 - 10:10 PM

tbh, never used them, but remember there was a few hanging up in the spares place i used to deal with years ago...but that was in the day that clutch replacements werent beyond the capabilities of the weekend mechanic..so maybe discontinued.
also remember one of the clutch manufacturers used to have a plasic guide included in their clutch kits, but dont see them any more either.
so apart from the odd one i see hanging on a wall, maybe wrong about 'readily available'

also, you rarely see a 'spigot bearing' clutch these days, so that might explain why you dont see the guides much now...

like you, i tend to use my eyes now, only get the aligner kits to double check if the box doesnt want to play ball and pop back in...9 out of 10, clutch is lined up fine, its just a case of getting the engine/box at the right angles

#344665 Clutch Replacement Mk4 1.25 Zetec's

Posted by wase16ll on 19 March 2014 - 09:08 AM

used to be able to get the plastic aligners for specific makes, not universal..iirc, the ford just needs a straight piece that fits through the driven plate, so can fashion one from a piece of dowel and insulating tape..
its not vital, like you said, aligning with the eye is straightforward enough...no big deal either way

#344611 Clutch Replacement Mk4 1.25 Zetec's

Posted by wase16ll on 19 March 2014 - 12:23 AM

every mechanic needs to be armed with a decent hammer :)

#344141 Fiesta 2008> Intermittent Brake Pedal Feel Issues

Posted by wase16ll on 18 March 2014 - 12:39 AM

have you had any work done on the brakes before this problem started? if so, though ive not experienced it myself, have heard its possible air can trap in the abs unit, which can give a similar condition..if no work has been done to the brakes, then this is unlikely to have happened, so would then agree with the master cylinder being the likely culprit.
though i would have all the brakes physicaly checked before condemning the master...for example, you may have a rear wheel cylinder sticking

#343556 Sold My Focus And I've Gone German

Posted by wase16ll on 16 March 2014 - 05:22 PM

tbh, bmw's are notoriousdly bad on grip in snow/ice no matter what tyres are on it...

#340377 Cat Removal Need Help

Posted by wase16ll on 08 March 2014 - 09:59 PM

ok, so the bolts your struggling with, are they nut and bolts..in which case just cut them off and replace...if they are studs/nuts, depending if the studs go through the joint rather than being threaded in exhaust, easier if you can get them undone, but worse case, cut them, drill the studs out and replace with nut/bolts..

dont know the cat set up off the top of my head, but if your talking about the manifold/downpipe studs then pays to spend extra time getting them undone, as if they shear, can be a right pain getting them drilled out and rethreaded or replaced..

#337451 Rust Hole Repair

Posted by wase16ll on 28 February 2014 - 11:25 PM

re a rough quote...not really, an inch hole often ends up much larger by the time you find clean metal...size of repair makes a big differance to cost...

#337449 Rust Hole Repair

Posted by wase16ll on 28 February 2014 - 11:18 PM

depends exactly where the hole is, still not sure if you mean floor pan or lower sill?

floor pan..yes, can save yourself some money by doing as much prep as possible...welding is best on the inside.. when it comes to removing all trace of sound deadening etc, usually easiest to heat it up with a blow torch and scrape it away..taking all necessary precautions obviously...sometimes its possible to give it a few light blows with a chisel or similar, as this will crack it and break off...
your looking to find good clean metal that is at least 1-1.5" surrounding the hole. plus all traces of sound deadening etc a further 3-4" away from the clean metal
dont be suprised if the welder spends a little time going over what you do though.

lower sill...easier to prepare, just attack it with an angle grinder till you get a few inches either side of the hole, remove all traces of rust/sealant/paint/underseal etc...if you find the hole a lot bigger than it first appears, might be easier to just get a replacement panel or oversill..in which case you may be better off letting the welder do the work.

#337369 Rust Hole Repair

Posted by wase16ll on 28 February 2014 - 08:32 PM

think best way i can answer that is by saying...

if the tester spots a hole in the floor and/or sill panel has been repaired with filler..it will fail.

how you interpret that answer is up to you

hasten to add, its not the route i'd take on a customers car...before anyone tries pulling me up on that

#336633 Focus 1.6Tdi Dpf Replacement

Posted by wase16ll on 26 February 2014 - 04:27 PM

have the codes been cleared and if so, have you attempted a regen by driving ?

codes are suggesting the dpf needs regenerating, the process probably started as you took the revs up, but stopped/failed to complete as you eased off...that triggered the codes and put you in limp..that might not necessarily mean the dpf is dead and buried, just that it needs a regen and because the regen didnt complete, car went into limp to protect it

worth trying before condemning...but codes need clearing first

needs a sustained drive in lower gear at higher revs...should tell you what/how to do this in your handbook as every make have slightly varying methods

if that fails, or already been tried..there is a growing industry in removing and cleaning the dpf off the car, heard they are good at prolonging the life of the filter, not sure of cost or if available in your area but worth a try as probably far cheaper than replacing.

most garages with fairly decent diagnostic capability, will be capable of forced regen and resets, so worth a few local garage calls.

i'm more or less in your area, but i make a point of not working with dpf problems, leave it to the specialists...but ill ask about and see if i can get any local recomendations from others in the game

#336439 Ford Focus Exhaust

Posted by wase16ll on 26 February 2014 - 12:52 AM

bit of advice
should always look at repairing exhausts as a temporary measure...trust me, it wont last

bare in mind that exhaust usually corrode from inside to out, so you have no way of knowing the condition of the rest of that particular section...what usually happens is...if on a silencer, another hole will appear or the original hole gets larger...if its on a pipe, then same again but could also possibly break in half..if its on a joint where the pipe enters the box, then guarantee sooner, rather than later that repair will break away and either rattle like crazy or snap away.

better off changing though a repair will last for a short while....would als be wary of garage that stated this could have ruined your cat???? unless the hole is on the cat itself.