You will certainly notice it Mike. I know i did. Probably also because in my case the EGR valve wasn't airtight so i was loosing boost without me knowing it.
I think most of the EGR valves won't be completely airtight, especially with diesels cause of all the sooth.
Most noticable differences in order of magnitude like i experienced it:
1) DPF removed, huge difference in engine flexibility. The engine could finally breath out like it should. Don't know if you have one, don't know the regulations over there but in my case it wasn't on the car papers so i could remove it without telling any one .
Nice thing is you can just buy a straight through exhaust middle piece, fit it (4 bolts) and you're done! No welding or anything else needed.
2) EGR blanking.Gone was the low rev stuttering, can drive at engine idle speed in first gear (or any gear for that matter) without having the feeling of driving a rodeo horse. Also the boost comes in more evenly, but that is probably because of the leaking valve like i said.
Did of course take it a bit further, blanked of the EGR valve on both sides, removed the cooler and EGR pipe and blanked of the hole in the intake manifold. Also removed the throttle insides so i don't get a vacuum at low revs. Does give me errorcode P0103 (high airflow air mass meter) regularly but i just reset that. No noticable difference in performance or driving when the error is active though. If i read it correctly it only shuts down the EGR action so no big deal. Problem is solvable by fitting a 2 stroke membrane intake valve at the right spot, still haven't done that but i know it will work because of the testing with the EGR valve. (can also get a remap to fix it but the membrane is a lot cheaper )
The boost kicks in very fast, less unused space to pressurize because of the removed EGR piping.
3) Cat removed, i didn't notice any differences, theoretically the boost should kick in a little faster, it probably does but in such a small amount that i can't feel or see (Scangauge II and Torque Pro) it.
4) Not really fitting in this list but i will mention it anyway. A cheapo ECO powerbox, only 60 euros. Very noticable performance gain although it is set for ECO driving. Also a noticable gain in MPG, not what they claim but i didn't expect that so no disappointment. Gives me about 2 to 3 km per litre extra (about 5-6 MPG extra). So with the milage i drive it already paid for it self. (24.000 km in the last 8 months, 1,33 euro for one litre diesel)
I can dial it up or down if i want, only one little screw in it. Tried with a full turn extra, a bit more power but because of the colder weather i turned it down again. Reason is because it fools the common rail pressure sensor i don't want full pressure from the injectionpump at all times, i hope this will save the pump a little. If i would have to guess it think it fools it about 200 to 300 bar comparing the Torque logs with and without powerbox.
So, not really what you where asking but maybe nice to know
I didn't change anything after i did the front intake mod (post 17 of this topic). If i look at my Scangauge i see only a little rise in temp after driving a while.
Overall you could say that when driving anywhere above crawling speed the temperature measured by the MAF (it not only measures air flow but it also has a temp sensor in it, at least in my case. You can see it when looking inside the MAF) only rises 1-3 degrees above the outside temperature. And 3 when it's warmer outside, 20 plus degrees, 1 to 2 degrees when it's not so warm, under 20 degrees outside.
So if i would move the airfilterbox, (and the battery, so a lot of work) i would only gain the 1-3 degrees. If it would be 10 to 30 degrees i would do it but for a measly 1-3 degrees i won't bother.
Must say i don't know what the rise would be with the original 90 degree bend in the air intake cause i destroyed that when making the direct cold air intake.
Also measured the rise in temp after the turbo, air temp rises about 10 to 15 degrees (outside temp was between 15 and 20 degrees), in summer it will rise a bit more i reckon but an intercooler also has some negatives, more turbo lag because the turbo has to pressurize a larger volume of air. So maybe an intercooler will help but i really like the way the boost comes in now so i don't want to ruin that.
My armrest does get a little in the way for the handbrake but as i can lift it up it's no problem. And to be quite honest, i never ever use my handbrake, Always park in first gear and i don't even use it when driving away on a slope, i just have a quick foot from brake to gas pedal .
Looks very nice but i wonder why on such cars (like on all "Tupperware" cars) they always want to make the rear look like a truck with that chimney sized exhaust. I think it's a sign of poor taste, that size of exhaust pipe's only looks good on a Mack or Kenworth truck but hey, can not argue about taste..........
Your clutch controls are hydraulic so maybe just a leaky cilinder (internally). Clutch master cilinder gets it's hydraulic fluid from the brake fluid reservoir.
Definitely not a cable cause there is no cable
When in gear, does the clutch slip when revving the motor? If not it won't be your clutch. Could also be the slave cilinder with the thrustbearing. If it's the latter it's just as much work as changing the whole clutch, your gearbox has to come off. Then it's worth considering changing the clutch also but that's something you will have to consider. Would be a shame if now only the slavecilinder and thrustbearing were changed and not after long your clutch would go. I know what i would do but i can't speak for you. (finances, time, space, etc)
The timing belt is on the other side of the engine and is fairly easy to change, just did mine last week.
Very happy with it, tested it yesterday to see if it really makes a difference and it saving me at least 1ltr/100km (See my project thread). Plus i have noticable more torque (don't care about horsepower, rarely go above 3000 rpm)
Driving around with it for 3350 kilometres now and because it isn't maxxed out for horsepower i hope it will last a long time!
(Also can't justify the price of a real remap, not to myself but certainly not to my wife )
You will have to drive for 60 to 100 kilometres so the ECU can re-learn. First few kilometres felt a bit strange, not running as smooth but after that it adapted the map in the ECU ( it will get different readings from all the sensors in and around the engine because the engine will rev stronger, quicker, different pressures and temps to what it was used to and so. Luckily the ECU is self learning and will adapt the overlay map in the ECU to cope with the changed signals. Had the same after removing the DPF and again after removing the cat. It also had to adapt after i raised the boost a bit but now it's all attuned) and it is a dream to drive now.
Always had Michelins, currently i have Pirreli P6 (were on the car when i bought it) but there just about the noisiest tires you can buy. As soon as they're worn out i'm going back to Michelins! Never had any problems with road noise with Michelins and they reduce my fuel consumption also thus works both ways