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Member Since 10 Sep 2013
Offline Last Active May 19 2015 01:20 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: 2007 S-Max Tailgate Won't Open

19 May 2015 - 01:22 AM

You needn't close the tailgate to check if the unlatch motor is operational.


Open the tailgate and trigger the latch closed with a screwdriver. Then see if it unlatches with either the fob or unlock button.


This will exclude any issues related to misalignment.


If it still doesn't unlatch, then it would be down to


1. Unlock signal actually confirmed at the lock assembly. You ideally need a wiring diagram and a multimeter for this.


2. Wiring integrity as gregers says.


3. The lock/latch motor itself. There is a TSB out on this, so it isn't an isolated issue as one might assume.

In Topic: Key Battery Low Msg

12 May 2015 - 05:17 AM

If you have reason to doubt the integrity of the replacement battery, or may have inadvertently replaced the old with the same (believe me, it happens!), try another one.


Re-programming isn't necessary if the battery is replaced and fob reassembled quickly.

In Topic: S-Max Rear And Front Near Side Position Lights Out Solution!

06 May 2015 - 02:05 PM

Wthanks for this:-)

In Topic: Engine Malfunction Light

26 March 2015 - 02:15 AM

I'd check all electrical connections and grounds.

In Topic: How To Remove Rear Tailgate Facia Trim On 2007 Smax

24 March 2015 - 02:53 PM

Yep, Terry, that would be the interior trim as in Ian's pic.

The top horizontal trim (behind the high level brake light) needs to be pulled out first as it overlaps the 2 upper side trims.

Then the side trims come off, followed by the largest lower main trim.

As Ian says, all trims are held in place by clips, so you may want to ensure the parts aren't too cold and brittle before attempting to tug on them. Get them up to at least room temperature. Try to pull on the trims as squarely as practically possible to minimize the risk of lug breakage. The rear lights access cutouts (in the lower main trim) can be used as leverage points to your advantage.

I have the facelift, and access to the switch is limited as it's secured to the bottom of the exterior chromed horizontal trim that's held in place by 4 nuts - and the access to these 4 nuts is fiddly, well at least in my car.

So rather than going that route, I suggest inspecting the wiring exposed by the trim removal first. This would be a good time to pull back on the rubber loom gaiters to inspect wiring at their 'flex' points, as suggested by Gregers.

If all is well - would I then attempt to gain access to the switch itself.