The module location and description is as described in post #4.
Apart from the sensors themselves, you need to inspect the connectors and wiring to them very carefully, as it's a known issue especially with the rear sensors. Remember that just a single fault renders the entire system unusable.
While paint may attenuate signal reception to a certain extent, especially metallic paint, there shouldn't be significant loss in reception unless the paint had been put on too thick, or multi-coated. Many OE shark fins are colour matched with no issues. I spraypainted mine on my own with OE touch-up spraypaint - again, no issue.
As illogical as it may seem, I'd first do a battery reset - it's a procedure known to reset quite a few unexplained electrical glitches, but do it only if you have your HU code available.
Moving on, what you might be able to do is remove the sharkfin and turn it upside-down or to its side, reconnect the FAKRA if there is sufficient slack in the cable and see if there is any improvement. If there is, then the paint could possibly be the culprit.
If you have a spare generic GPS antenna, try connecting it up temporarily to the FAKRA to see if there is improvement - if not, you may have to investigate upstream of the FAKRA.
Yep, Terry, that would be the interior trim as in Ian's pic.
The top horizontal trim (behind the high level brake light) needs to be pulled out first as it overlaps the 2 upper side trims.
Then the side trims come off, followed by the largest lower main trim.
As Ian says, all trims are held in place by clips, so you may want to ensure the parts aren't too cold and brittle before attempting to tug on them. Get them up to at least room temperature. Try to pull on the trims as squarely as practically possible to minimize the risk of lug breakage. The rear lights access cutouts (in the lower main trim) can be used as leverage points to your advantage.
I have the facelift, and access to the switch is limited as it's secured to the bottom of the exterior chromed horizontal trim that's held in place by 4 nuts - and the access to these 4 nuts is fiddly, well at least in my car.
So rather than going that route, I suggest inspecting the wiring exposed by the trim removal first. This would be a good time to pull back on the rubber loom gaiters to inspect wiring at their 'flex' points, as suggested by Gregers.
If all is well - would I then attempt to gain access to the switch itself.
There isn't an S-Max/gGalaxy Haynes manual out yet.
I have a facelift S-max. Access to the washer bottle/pump/sensor is gained by removing the bumper, as it's tucked away NS below and out of sight/reach.
The pump is removed in situ simply by disconnecting the wiring and hose and pulling it out from the rubber grommet/seal, ditto with the sensor.
I'm guessing the pre-facelift may have a similar arrangement.
Is it possible to enable DDS on a S-Max or do they need sensors in the tyres unlike the Focus/Kuga?Also to enable auto locking for a Mondeo/S-max is the procedure as follows :-- Read from IPC- Read from BCM- Select Central Configuration- Automatic Locking by speed - Select with automatic locking- Write to IPC- Write to BMCIs that correct?Or should it be done the following way?- Read from BCM- Select Central Configuration- Automatic Locking by speed - Select with automatic locking- Write to BCMThen- Read from IPC- Select Central Configuration- Automatic Locking by speed - Select with automatic locking- Write to IPCThanksBen