If my memory is correct they are 17x7.5 so your camber will be slightly more negative perhaps up to 4cm more negative than a mk2 rolling 16x6.5
The wider it goes the larger the gap difference,
If your noticing it on tyres then i recommend fitting the adjustable bolts for 30 quid mate,
17x7 same 205 width tyres as the 16's just 50 profile as opposed to 55.
Mine are fine anyway, no uneven tyre wear etc, i just look at them sometimes and think they have alot of -camber on them. I also think if the ground is not quite level it seems to make it look worse
yeah looks pretty good match, I did what ben did and didn't flat the basecoat before clearcoat, the texture/finish of the ba.secoat was such that I didn't think it needed it. I also applied clearcoat 3 hours after basecoat. There are loads of threads on the internet regarding spraying and as per usual with the internet they contradict each other! Although most seemed to point towards clearcoating an hour or 2 after basecoat. Anyway the finish is good the way I have done it, just a few specks of dust here and there, that i need to sort out.
My method was:
Bought replacement bonnet lip
Sanded down with P400 wet/dry to key
Used Hycote grey plastic primer - 5 thin coats
Waited 24hrs - Then rubbed down/smoothed primer with ultra fine (light grey) scotchbrite pad
Wiped with damp cloth, then wiped down with isopropyl alcohol
6 thin coats/passes of genuine ford basecoat until the can ran out.
Left 3-4 hours - wiped over with lint free cloth/isopropyl alochol lightly to remove dust etc
6 thin coats/passes of ford clearcoat.
The ford cans (150ml) are just enough to do one of these bonnet lips, I could have quite easily done a couple more light passes of both cans.
The key here is to get the primed article as smooth and flaw free as possible before basecoat.
Gonna give it a few days and then clay/polish it lightly before fitting to the car, but no orange peel or anything at moment so all good!