1) Drive car up ramps ( I made ramps using 4 X 13 foot secondhand scaffold boards £5 each ). Disconnect battery negative connector. Jack up right hand side front of car off the ramp and support with axle stand. Remove front wheel and splash shield, 3 screws. ( Photo 1 ).
2) Remove nut from top of drop link using allen key and spanner. ( Photo 2 ).
3) Lever drop link downwards to easily push out the bolt attached to drop link. ( Photo 3 ).
4) Move drop link to one side so that there is a space to get alternator out. ( Photo 4 ).
5) Remove cooling cover on back of alternator 4 nuts ( 8mm spanner ) and remove 2 wiring connectors. The square connector looks difficult to remove but just press tab with sharpened bent strip of metal and pull plug off ( do not pull on wires ) ( Photos 5 & 6 ).
6) Make tool to release spring tensioner pressure from belt. Mine needed 12mm square X 20mm long bar of metal welded to 22 inch long 6mm strip of metal. Other Mondeos could need a hexagon shaped tool, not square. This tool fits square hole or hexagon shaped hole behind tensioner pulley. Pull to the left to remove pressure on the belt and lift the slack belt off alternator pulley( Photos 7, 8 and 9 ). If you don't have a welder a 12mm square X 20mm bar of metal and an adjustable spanner with tube extension could do it but will probably slip off under pressure.
7) Remove top bolt from alternator ( this bolt also supports wiring harness ). Then from under car remove the other 2 nuts. This leaves 2 long studs that must be removed using E8 TORX socket or pliers but protect the threads. These studs are not very tight. There is now a clear space to lower the alternator. With these 2 studs removed it is also very easy to position the new belt.You will see this when refitting the belt. I purchased a set of TORX sockets from Amazon ( Silverline 675072 14 piece only £8.80 ) very useful for other jobs on the car.
8) Turn alternator so that widest part is horizontal and wiggle it through hole under wheel arch ( photo 10 ).
I then also removed complete spring tensioner, another 3 bolts, to inspect it. ( nothing wrong with mine ). This has to be removed if you also want to change the belt. Don't forget to loop the new belt around the spring tensioner before fitting the 3 bolts. Only fit one of the top 2 bolts loosely ( the outside bolt ) of the spring tensioner then its easier to get the new belt round the spring tensioner pulley as you can move the tensioner outwards to give a 6mm clearance between the engine block and pulley. Note this is the reason the 2 studs must be out because if they were screwed in you would not get any 6mm movement to get the belt round the pulley. You will probably have a few attempts to get the belt in correct position but its only one loose bolt to remove if you forget to loop the belt behind the tensioner.
Now you can go ahead and screw the studs back in while holding the alternator in place plus the lower bracket of the spring tensioner.
I forgot to position the lower bracket of the spring tensioner onto the 2 studs. Note how long the threads are on the studs without the spring tensioner bracket on. Make sure you fit the studs complete with alternator and spring tensioner bracket ( photos 11 & 12 ).
I found it easier to fit the belt on the alternator pulley last when using the spring tensioner release tool.
My car is an automatic and the crankshaft pulley was in good condition although rusty.
Just for the record if you get another car, I consider the 5 speed tiptronic automatic gearboxes on Ford cars to be brilliant, I have had my Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Est Auto 2004 since new and this gearbox has not given any problems at all. No clutch or flywheel repairs on my car.
Its done 142,000 miles on original battery, alternator and serpentine belt. I am only changing the belt today because it should be done at 50,000 miles but there was still no sign of wear.
Hope these photos and explaination make it easy for you to do this job. Any problems just ask.