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Dave May

Member Since 27 Oct 2013
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 07:13 PM
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#422696 Water Ingress On Mk3 Mondeo

Posted by Dave May on 25 October 2014 - 02:31 PM

I had water in the rear footwell of my 2004 Mondeo and was easily fixed. The water came in though the horizontal window weather strip ( where the window slides up and down ). Even a brand new weather strip will not stop all of the rain water getting in.  It hits the SPEAKER and drops INSIDE the sealing rubber at the bottom of the door frame then fills the footwell.

 

All you have to do to fix it is to remove the door inner panel  ( 5 minute job ) and with a hose pipe you will see the water dripping in above the speaker. I found a roll of 5 inch  ( single brick ) damp proof membrane in my shed. This is thick plastic but any thick plastic sheet will do. I cut 3 lengths ABOUT 16 inches long X 5 inches wide. The speaker has 2 studs at the top. Make 2 holes the same width as these studs at the top of the three 5 inch strips.

 

Or just cut a fan shaped bit of thick plastic sheet  5 inches at the top X 16 inches down and about 12 inches wide at the bottom.

 

Remove speaker, then position the 3 plastic strips  ( LIKE A FAN OPENING WIDER AT THE BOTTOM ) at the top of the speaker on the studs so that the water does not touch the speaker but runs over the strips like a raincoat and ends up on the outer part of the door panel and then drips out of the normal hole at the bottom of the door.

 

That is all I did to fix the leak on one back door but I am sure all doors can be fixed the same way.

 

Good Luck

 

Dave




#349922 Mondeo Tdci 2004 Flashing Glowplug And Cutting Out When Overtaking. Fixed Now

Posted by Dave May on 01 April 2014 - 10:59 PM

 
This fault first happened at 75mph while overtaking. Selected neutral, switched engine OFF / ON now engine started again. All OK at 60 mph but dangerous to risk any faster especially in the outside lane.
 
Had to fix this quick so purchased a code reader from Amazon but no code was stored. Only way to get a fault code was to drive hard to get car to cut out then pull over and stop WITH IGNITION STILL ON and then connect code reader. Fault code was PO 251  Injection pump fuel metering Control A malfunction.
 
I suspected fuel starvation so replaced fuel filter. The contents of the old filter was emptied into a jam jar and checked for metal particals which is a sign of faulty injection pump but all OK no metal in the filter. Also blew air into fuel pipe to the tank, bubbles came up in the tank so no blockage there.
 
Next day had 600 mile round trip job , so purchased BG244 injection cleaner and full tank of Shell V Power. Found car ok on cruise control set to 70 mph but still cut out when trying to hold 70 mph up a hill. Car cut out at least 10 times that day. This still seems to be low fuel pressure. The injector nozzles should be clean by now so can't be that.
 
On internet found injectors have spray nozzles plus a pressure relief valve which opens to let excessive fuel back to the tank. A common problem is this valve leaks and fuel pressure is reduced in the fuel rail. That seems to be my problem. NOTE : It only needs one injector to leak to cause low fuel pressure but always best to get all four injectors fitted with new leak back valves together.
 
Got a quote from a diesel specialist garage at £1300 + VAT = £1560. This included diagnostic test plus injector leak back test and  4 reconditioned injectors plus coding the injectors. Decided not to bother with the garage I will take the injectors out myself and get them repaired.
 
                                              --------------------------------------------------------------
 
Removing the injectors on a 2004 Mondeo is the easiest job I have ever done on this car. I followed the Haynes manual. See quick guide below.
 
1) Remove battery negative lead
 
2) Wait about 2 minutes for fuel pressure to drop in the rail. Mark the position of the 4 high pressure pipes to the injectors and remove these 4 pipes.
 
3) Remove the front camshaft cover screws and lift the two triangle metal plates so that you can now unplug the 4 injector electric leads and remove the 4 leakback clips. 
 
4) IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT NO SPECKS OF DIRT ENTER THE FUEL RAIL OR INJECTORS so cover the open holes with Duck Tape  ( photo 1 )
 
5) Unplug the electric plug at the right hand side of the camshaft cover using a bent screwdriver to lift the clip inside plug ( photo 2 ). Also disconnect the crankcase vent pipe ( lever this off with screwdriver ). Unclip the wiring loom and position to the left side with the triangle plates still attached to the wiring loom.
 
6) Lever out the 4 injector oil seals then remove all screws holding the camshaft cover. Remove camshaft cover.
 
You will now see a brilliant design of an engine. The 4 injectors are in an oil bath and so you will have no problems unbolting them. Most other cars including the expensive ones have the injectors fitted to the outside of the engine block and corrode solid, new engines are needed in some cases but no problems for a Mondeo TDCI.
 
It is now very important to understand that the 4 injectors have a different 16 bit code on their labels and the engine management has to be told what 16 bit number injector is fitted in what cylinder 1.2.3 or 4. I counted 1.2.3.4 from left to right and marked the injectors with a hacksaw blade one at a time as I removed them and also WROTE DOWN THE 16 BIT NUMBER in a diary for future reference. Each injector must be refitted in the same cylinder after reconditioning. IF YOU GET THIS WRONG THE CAR WILL NOT START.  ( photo 3 ).
 
If you get a rough idle after refitting the reconditioned injectors the engine management computer will have to have this 16 bit number re-entered. When the injector is fitted you will not be able to see the 16 bit number so don't forget to write it down while its out. You can re-code the engine management yourself as injector programmers / code readers are available on ebay at only £16-95 each. Give it a few days to settle down first though, as the engine management has a built-in learning curve and should automatically do minor adjustments itself.
 
7) Unbolt the 4 injectors, I used a box spanner with long ring spanner very easy. ( photo 4 )
 
8) My local injector reconditioner company was C.A.E. DIESEL LTD Chingford London 0208 527 8077. John the owner was very helpful with advice. At 10am he had the injectors and I collected at 4pm same day. All injectors were fitted with new leak back valves and spray pattern checked. ( £95 each + VAT ).
 
9) Keep the protective covers on the injectors and refit them in the correct order also make sure the flat part where electric leads fit is facing front. Use a metal rule to line them up. I found it easier to finger tight first and then turn injector 45 degrees back then tighten with the box spanner. The injector turns as the bolt is tightened so as you cannot see the flat part, its a bit hit and miss but its easy enough to get them tight and lined up. ( photo 5 )
 
10) Refit the camshaft cover and then the injector oilseals. Dont forget to connect the vent pipe and the electric plug. Refit the high pressure pipes in the same order. Connect the battery negative lead.
 
I did not replace any oilseal or pipes, all were reused. The Haynes manual advised renewing everything but to me all parts were still good and I checked with Fords they do the same as me.
 
There is no need at all to bleed the fuel rail. Any air thats inside will be compressed to nothing when the injector pump starts.
 
I turned the key and it started within 4 seconds. Road tested all OK now and tick-over perfect.
 
Total cost including VAT was £456 I saved over £1000 and learnt a lot.
 
Good Luck with yours.
 
Dave 
 
Latest update: 12th April 2015  New cutout problem where glowplug flashes then instant cutout.
Not a fuel problem. Faulty batch of Camshaft Position Sensors. Type on google " MONDEO TDCI 2004 MORE CUTOUT PROBLEMS ALL FIXED NOW " for full report.

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#300110 Mondeo 2.0 Tdi 2004. How To Easily Remove The Alternator And Belt ( Many Phot...

Posted by Dave May on 27 October 2013 - 09:59 PM

1) Drive car up ramps ( I made ramps using 4 X 13 foot secondhand scaffold boards £5 each ). Disconnect battery negative connector. Jack up right hand side front of car off the ramp and support with axle stand. Remove front wheel and splash shield, 3 screws. ( Photo 1 ).

 

2) Remove nut from top of drop link using allen key and spanner. ( Photo 2 ).

 

3) Lever drop link downwards to easily push out the bolt attached to drop link. ( Photo 3 ).

 

4) Move drop link to one side so that there is a space to get alternator out. ( Photo 4 ).

 

5) Remove cooling cover on back of alternator 4 nuts ( 8mm spanner ) and remove 2 wiring connectors. The square connector looks difficult to remove but just press tab with sharpened bent strip of metal and pull plug off ( do not pull on wires ) ( Photos 5 & 6 ).

 

6) Make tool to release spring tensioner pressure from belt. Mine needed 12mm square X 20mm long bar of metal welded to 22 inch long 6mm strip of metal. Other Mondeos could need a hexagon shaped tool, not square. This tool fits square hole or hexagon shaped hole behind tensioner pulley. Pull to the left to remove pressure on the belt and lift the slack belt off alternator pulley( Photos 7, 8 and 9 ). If you don't have a welder a 12mm square X 20mm bar of metal and an adjustable spanner with tube extension could do it but will probably slip off under pressure.

 

7) Remove top bolt from alternator ( this bolt also supports wiring harness ). Then from under car remove the other 2 nuts. This leaves 2 long studs that must be removed using E8 TORX socket or pliers but protect the threads. These studs are not very tight. There is now a clear space to lower the alternator. With these 2 studs removed it is also very easy to position the new belt.You will see this when refitting the belt. I purchased a set of TORX sockets from Amazon ( Silverline 675072 14 piece only £8.80 ) very useful for other jobs on the car.

 

8) Turn alternator so that widest part is horizontal and wiggle it through hole under wheel arch ( photo 10 ).

 

I then also removed complete spring tensioner, another 3 bolts, to inspect it. ( nothing wrong with mine ). This has to be removed if you also want to change the belt. When refitting the spring tensioner and belt ONLY FIT ONE of the TOP 2 bolts loosely  ( the outside bolt ) of the spring tensioner then its easy to get the new belt round the spring tensioner pulley as you can move the tensioner outwards to give a 10mm clearance between the engine block and pulley and just loop the belt round the lower bracket of the spring tensioner to get in correct position. Note: this is the reason the 2 studs must be out because if they were screwed in you would not get any 10mm movement to get the belt round the pulley and lower bracket.

 

Now you can go ahead and screw the studs back in while holding the alternator in place plus the lower bracket of the spring tensioner.

 

I forgot to position the lower bracket of the spring tensioner onto the 2 studs. Note how long the threads are on the studs without the spring tensioner bracket on. Make sure you fit the studs complete with alternator and spring tensioner bracket. Also make sure the lower bracket is not upside down, photo 12 is correct way round. ( photos 11 & 12 ).

 

I found it easier to fit the belt on the alternator pulley last when using the spring tensioner release tool.To save your fingers get a piece of wood 60mm X 15mm X 2 foot long, round off one end to the shape of the alternator pulley ( thats 60mm diameter ). Hold the spring to max release pressure using the release tool so you can easily tap the belt onto the alternator pulley from the top of the engine using a rubber hammer on the piece of wood.

 

NOTE: Your release tool must go FULLY into the square or hexagon hole behind the spring pulley. I have noticed that a new spring tensioner had the pulley bolt 4mm too long which only allowed the release tool to go half way in so when applying heavy pressure the aluminium casting breaks around the square hole. So check all new brackets and cut the pulley bolt flush with bottom of hole if too long.

 

My car is an automatic and the crankshaft pulley was in good condition although rusty.

 

Just for the record if you get another car, I consider the 5 speed tiptronic automatic gearboxes on Ford cars to be brilliant, I have had my Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Est Auto 2004 since new and this gearbox has not given any problems at all. No clutch or flywheel repairs on my car.

Its done 142,000 miles on original battery, alternator and serpentine belt. I am only changing the belt today because it should be done at 50,000 miles but there was still no sign of wear.

 

Hope these photos and explaination make it easy for you to do this job. Any problems just ask.

 

Good Luck

 

Dave

 

 

 

 

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