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Dan62

Member Since 12 Mar 2009
Offline Last Active Today, 01:08 AM
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#349656 Advice On Buying Second Hand Fiesta

Posted by Dan62 on 01 April 2014 - 09:34 AM

Make sure you have written proof that the cambelt has been replaced.

It is possible that a car of this mileage and with several owners that it has been overlooked.

 

Also, a daft thing like only coming with 1 key is something to avoid or use for negotiation, getting a 2nd key programmed can be expensive.




#346152 Radiator Cooling Fan

Posted by Dan62 on 23 March 2014 - 09:48 AM

Relay_Box-1.jpg

 

The relay/fuse box is located next to the battery. The cover can be a little tricky to remove.




#345324 Focus 2001 Tdi Ghia Headlamp Levelling Adjust System Fubar

Posted by Dan62 on 20 March 2014 - 09:30 PM

Leveler_99-2001.5.jpg

Leveler_2001.5-04.jpg

 

Here are the wd's for the levelling, the difference between them is that the motor power is taken from the Low Beam on pre 2001.5 and from side/parking lights on post 2001.5 model years.

 

Hope they help.

 

 




#344189 S Reg Fiesta Electrical Problem

Posted by Dan62 on 18 March 2014 - 09:40 AM

Great, the earth point did appear to be common to all your other problems and would be a good place to start.




#343830 S Reg Fiesta Electrical Problem

Posted by Dan62 on 17 March 2014 - 12:17 PM

G6-1.jpg

Check the earth point marked G6, drivers side foot well.

 

This may be part of the problem.

 

The handbrake light also indicates low brake fluid and does not have any connection with the above earth point. Either switch could be bad or your brake fluid is low.




#339703 Clutch Bleeding Problem

Posted by Dan62 on 07 March 2014 - 10:27 AM

Hi Guys, I have a 2006 Mondeo Mk3 2.0ltr TDCi Hatch,with a clutch problem.  I am hopeing someone can help solve my problem.  

Simply, my clutch wont bleed even using a Gunson Pressure Bleeder.  I have tried bleeding the recommended way through the reservoir but no joy, (it didn't pee in the bottle for me) so I adapted it so I could reverse bleed it from the bleed nipple, but no fluid movement in either direction.  

A few months ago I fitted new Alloys and cleaned all the brakes, fitted new pads and bled them all successfully.  I also bled the clutch which also worked fine but not this time. it's  totally got me stumped  :unsure: : I tried using the Gunson above the max pressure of 20psi up to 30psi but I darn't go any higher(I don't want to blow any seals). There just isn't any fluid movement at all  even with the bleed nipple completely removed, not even a drip.

Now the pedal no longer has any resistance and just flip-flops up and down by hand.  This only happened when I tried to bleed it to improve pressure on the pedal as it was not returning all the way up. The clutch did work OK until then but only got pressure in the last half of the pedal travel.

I really hope you guys can help, as apart from changing the master cylinder, I'm out of ideas and out of my  :censored:  mind.

Many thanks for reading.

Bob.

It sounds like the return spring in the master cylinder has broken.

Unless the pedal is in the uppermost position you cannot bleed the clutch as there is no direct path for the fluid to flow.




#332990 Pas Pressure Switch

Posted by Dan62 on 16 February 2014 - 04:16 PM

The wiring diagram shows it as a normally closed switch, opening under high pressure. So unplugging it should increase the rpm.




#305976 Help End My Nightmare Before Christmas!! Idle Issue Fiesta 1.4 Zetec

Posted by Dan62 on 16 November 2013 - 12:32 PM

 

Yes the EAC lit up and juddered to a stop.  How would I test the pedal?

 

Thanks

The pedal has dual potentiometers, so in case of failure there is a limp home backup.

Pot 1 is pin1 to pin5, wiper pin6

Pot 2 is pin2 to pin4, wiper pin3

 

If you have EAC fail its highly likely to be the pedal or the throttle body, you might not see a problem checking the pedal with a meter and its not recommended to dismantle the throttle body, ideally replace them.




#304028 Pats Module Fault

Posted by Dan62 on 10 November 2013 - 12:46 PM

No the original key matches up with the ecu, all the codes matched, but for some reason it wasnt reading them correctly so he ran a test on it and it came back pats module fault,

Check the keys, which or both open and lock the car door by physically inserting them in the lock.




#303723 Cars Got A Mind Of Its Own. Help!!!!!!

Posted by Dan62 on 09 November 2013 - 11:39 AM

Starter motors have a pre-engagement solenoid that inhibits power to the starter motor until it has engaged with the flywheel.

(older starter motors used to spin and throw out the engagement gear). So no, apart from maybe a click you might not notice anything.

 

The relay K22 is the relay between the ignition start switch and the starter solenoid, less likely but possible.




#303434 Lumpy On Acceleration

Posted by Dan62 on 08 November 2013 - 01:20 PM

+1
Number them before removing from the distributor cap
Or remove them one by one,

Get hold of a voltage meter,
Put positive to one end of the HT lead and negative to the other end
Voltage should carry through.

Or you could take this oppertuity to upgrade the HT leads to a performance brand and change the distributor cap.

Lenny, you are confusing voltage with resistance and as for distributors and distributor caps they were replaced by coil packs.




#303027 Lumpy On Acceleration

Posted by Dan62 on 07 November 2013 - 09:48 AM

Have you checked or changed the spark plugs ?

A common problem is water in the spark plug wells caused by rain water seeping under the windscreen washer jets.




#298599 Feed To Coil Pack Faulty???

Posted by Dan62 on 22 October 2013 - 11:30 AM

The only way to accurately see what's  going on would be to use an oscilloscope.

The limitations of a meter is that the switching speed is too high for it to read (you will only see an average) and just using a meter without a load means that any resistance in the circuit (such as a bad connector) would not be seen.

Even if you can see a difference its leading you back to the same place, either the wiring, connectors or PCM itself.

 

If I was going to diagnose this I would start by checking the wiring continuity between the two connectors, make sure the PCM connectors were in good condition and take it from there.

 

I assume its either 1&4 or 2&3 that have the weak spark ?




#298578 Feed To Coil Pack Faulty???

Posted by Dan62 on 22 October 2013 - 10:13 AM

The coil pack is supplied with a permanent 12v from the ignition (Fuel pump relay) PIN 2 of the coil pack connector Green/Blue wire.

 

The ground returns are the other two wires, one for cylinders 1&4 and the other for 2&3, these wires come directly from the PCM, there is no connector in between.

 

The PCM connector has a securing screw that has to be drilled out if you want to check the continuity of the wiring between the two connectors.

FYI the PCM connector PIN M1 (large pin top left) wire Black / Green, PIN M3 (third pin down on the left) wire Black / Orange.

 

Hope this helps.




#282747 Focus Mk2.5 Washer Motor Dead!

Posted by Dan62 on 16 August 2013 - 01:51 PM

Its not the stalk switches then.

Next suggestion is to check wiring back from motor via connectors you have highlighted in yellow.