As the oil capacity of the engine is 4.25 litres that means it must have virtually run dry of oil which poses the question of how you came to let it get in that state? Unless you have a catastrophic oil leak or it's burning vast quantities you shouldn't have lost 4 litres in a normal service interval. How long since it was serviced? Have you ever checked the dipstick?
If it really needed that quantity of oil it's pretty well certain you've trashed the engine.
I agree with you Darren. As an electronics engineer I have very firm views on what is, or is not, good practice and I want to know how this works. If it is, indeed, detecting a voltage change at the battery I imagine this has been done to simplify installation but personally I wouldn't choose to design something that way.
Mine is connected to the battery and come one when I start the car. I think it's to do with the relay and the drop in voltage when you start the car.
If it works connected that way it must be detecting the rise in battery voltage when the alternator starts charging. If so that seems a bit 'iffy' to me though. Personally I'd want it sourced from an ignition-controlled circuit.
We had the same problem on our 03 1.8Tdci estate when we first bought it. The vss and cluster were both changed but didn't cure it. It was eventually found to be the loom chafing against the gear linkage. Has been fine since (7 years).
No the position of the relay won't make any difference - the overall run length of the wire, battery via relay to horn, will be much the same. The fact you're using thicker than stock and probably a more direct route, hence shorter run, should give an improvement.
I don't know the Mondy body. If the bracket you're referring to is welded to the chassis and you're sure you've got a good clean connection to it then running the new ground wire from it ought to be all that's required. If the bracket is bolted to the chassis you'd need to make sure the electrical contact between the two isn't being degraded by corrosion.
If you're happy with the electrical connections but are still getting poor results the only recourse, really, is to do some voltage checking with the horn operating. Check the voltage across the horn spade terminals if you can get probes onto them and see how much, if any, voltage you're losing. If more than, say, 0.5V then check between the horn ground spade and battery negative terminal and between the horn +ve spade and battery +ve to see if you can pin down where the voltage is being lost.
If I've understood this correctly you've installed a relay near the horns, run a heavy wire to it directly from the battery (fused I hope) and used the stock wiring to operate the relay. If that hasn't improved things I think you'd be right in suspecting it's an earthing issue. If you can stand the racket you could try measuring the voltage between the horn earth point and the battery earth while the horn is operating. Alternatively why not try running a heavy gauge wire between the two earth points.
I may be wrong but I think the antenna length is set to a specific fraction of a wavelength so it is effectively tuned to a small range of frequencies. If you just crop off an arbitrary amount you destroy this tuning. If you live in a strong signal area you probably won't notice it but it's effective range could be compromised.
Took it for a run and did about 15 miles then got home and turned engine off for an hour . Went back to check oil and upon pulling out the dipstick there was no oil on it! Put it in again and gave a normal reading !!!
Jon, this seems to be normal, mine does the same (1.8HE petrol). I have a theory that the o-ring on the dipstick forms an airtight seal that pressurises the dipstick tube, preventing the oil moving up it - until you remove the dipstick and release the pressure.
The information that is wrong does not affect using them. I just pointed that out to warn that sellers can make exaggerated and/or downright incorrect claims about their products and it's best to treat them with a modicum of circumspection
Yes, those K-series engines were very prone to HGF, especially the early ones with plastic dowels between head and block. Beyond 50K miles it was almost guaranteed. Not the best design of engine, Rover (and Land Rover) struggled to find a gasket design that would last.
Andrew, I take it you mean that when you come off the gas and declutch for your gearchange the revs stay high? If so that can't be a clutch problem. Assuming it's not something as simple as a sticking throttle cable or butterfly it might be the idle control valve.
E.G.R.V.'s are purely E.U. emission control , as are D.P.F.'s - both are diesel engine killers.
Unfortunately un-emission-controlled diesel engines are also human killers. Diesels have always been dirty engines and however much stuff is bolted on they will never be really clean. Even the awful DPF doesn't completely remove particulates which are so small that, once in the lungs, they get into the bloodstream and the EGR doesn't reduce the nitrous oxides that are causing such problems in urban areas. Attempts to clean them up are simply hobbling their performance and adding to both the initial and running costs and so reducing the benefits compared to petrol. Also, of course, deleting these components simply increases these harmful emissions.
I know petrol engines are far from perfect but their emissions are less harmful to heath and a lot simpler to control. I've been driving a diesel Focus for the last five years. It's the first I've owned and I will freely admit that I find it a much nicer drive than my newer petrol Focus but I won't be buying another diesel.