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Member Since 24 Apr 2008
Offline Last Active Today, 01:14 PM

#446677 Relocating The Washer Jets

Posted by mjt on 20 January 2015 - 09:15 PM

Because of the steeper angle you'll find it much more tricky to adjust the jets to fall in the correct place on the screen and the airflow at different speeds will have more effect in deflecting the flow. I found this a particular problem on a white van-based motor caravan. Most white vans have quite snub noses so the jets have to be positioned immediately below the screen. It's almost impossible to get the adjustment right and then it changes depending on road speed.

#440649 Knocking Noise On Full Lock

Posted by mjt on 31 December 2014 - 11:31 AM

 Can understand when CV joints failing if a perished boot isn't spotted and all the grease gets flung out but yours sounds like a faulty part in some way.


It's always possible a split boot has been replaced and some dirt got into the joint while doing that.

#439746 1.6 Tdci Warm Up Times...?

Posted by mjt on 27 December 2014 - 11:13 AM

I find fiddling with one's knob whilst driving can be very distracting . . . . :D

#434801 Zetec 1.6 - How Does One Replace Battery?

Posted by mjt on 07 December 2014 - 10:46 AM

I personally start the car at this point saves faffing about for codes/resetting windows etc.


If you're suggesting leaving the engine running whilst removing the battery this is a very bad idea. The battery acts as a very large smoothing capacitor. Without it there will be a lot of voltage spikes on the electrical system which can damage sensitive electronics like the ECU, GEM and instrument cluster. Also if the positive battery lead accidentally touches the chassis you could instantly blow your alternator.


If you want to avoid 'faffing about with codes' the best way is to connect a small battery across the leads before disconnecting them. That will maintain your codes and in case of an accidental short the small battery won't provide enough current to do any damage. You can make up a 12V battery from 8 AA cells using a battery box like this. I think it's possible to connect this using the 12V cig lighter socket as long as this is permanently live.

#423761 Headlights

Posted by mjt on 29 October 2014 - 10:47 AM

Just thought I'd mention that self-levelling and adaptive (or directional) headlamps were offered on the Citroen DS as long ago as 1967.

#418546 Is The Dashboard Figures Accurate? (Miles Left To Empty Tank)

Posted by mjt on 12 October 2014 - 11:30 AM

Obviously the range is calculated based on the current average fuel consumption and when you consider the number of variables involved it's quite amazing that it's as accurate as it is. For example the fuel consumed is measured from the injector opening times but this is dependant upon the fuel rail pressure and the temperature of the fuel (warmer fuel being less dense). The distance travelled is affected by the amount of tyre wear and the "slippage" that occurs between tyre and road which is affected by the grippiness of the tyre (which depends upon the hardness of the tyre compound) and the road surface (more slippage in the wet, for example).

#417415 P0428 Dtc After Dpf Removal

Posted by mjt on 08 October 2014 - 10:53 AM

I've been of the opinion for some time that the particulate emissions from diesel engines, particularly those universally used for road haulage and public transport, is a significant factor in the increase of breathing problems such as asthma. I tend to agree with FOCA that attempts to cure this problem by bolting on ever more restrictive emission control systems is not working. This is why I've decided to revert to a petrol car. I suspect that our old 1.8TDCi without all these systems is not much, if any, worse than a modern one with them and is a good deal cheaper to maintain. I've already got a newer petrol focus and when we change the old diesel we'll be looking for another petrol.

#407763 Disconnected Wire??

Posted by mjt on 09 September 2014 - 03:55 PM

Are the wife colours black, brown and 2 yellows?


How many wives do you think he's got? :D

#399810 Ford Focus Mk2 Steering Wheel Vibration

Posted by mjt on 20 August 2014 - 08:46 AM

I started driving on Minis and the inner joints on those were rubber cruciform types. They were clamped in using U-bolts and if not properly aligned would cause the shaft to run out of true. This had two effects : firstly they would be out of balance, although as they were relatively light weight this didn't cause much of a problem. The other effect was that it cased the wheel rotation to be very slightly uneven which reflected through the steering as a wobble. This was noticeable at low speed more than high. The joints were always troublesome because they got oily, the rubber swelled and they started knocking on the transmission casing.


Modern shafts use the tripod joints with needle roller bearings and don't, as far as I know, suffer from misalignment but as you seem to have eliminated wheels and tyres as the source of the problem I just thought it would be worth checking to see if the shafts are running true or, worst case, bent. The only way I know of is to jack up and turn the wheels whilst looking at the shafts.

#398583 Ford Focus Mk2 Steering Wheel Vibration

Posted by mjt on 17 August 2014 - 02:53 PM

Assuming you've checked for distorted wheels I'd have thought the next place to look would be the driveshafts and their joints. As the vibration is noticeable from such a low speed I'd check for the shafts running out of true and have a close look at the inner tripod joints.

#372826 Steering Vibration

Posted by mjt on 09 June 2014 - 09:40 AM

Hi Folks,


For some time now our 03-plate Mk1.5 Ghia estate 1.8TDCi has suffered from a bit of steering vibration. It recently had an MOT and came away with a clean bill of health but needed new front tyres. The front wheels have been re-balanced three times since then but the vibration is still there. It happens from about 65 indicated upwards and is not constant, sometimes it's worse, sometimes barely noticeable. I have noticed that on a gradual bend in the road it comes and goes as though the wheels are going in and out of sync.


At the last balance I specifically asked the the guy to check that the alloys were undamaged and running true and he confirmed they were ok. Also as far as I know the driveshafts are undamaged.


I'm now wondering if the problem is the suspension getting a bit tired and slack - the car's done just over 105K - and therefore less tolerant of any slight imbalance in the wheels and shafts. I just bought a 60-plate Mk2.5 hatch and the handling of that feels so much tighter and more responsive and although I realise the steering geometry is probably different the older car feels distinctly soggy by comparison.


In spite of the clean MOT I wonder if I should have the front shocks replaced. If so what brand should I go for? I notice Euro Car parts list three different makes.


I should be grateful for any help or suggestions.

#368028 Dpf Ford Focus

Posted by mjt on 26 May 2014 - 09:55 AM

+1 mate,
Also on a side note: i spoke to an environmental chemist in work and asked him whats his view on DPF,
He reckons the self regeneration process is actually worse than having no dpf because it drops a bomb of toxic gasses potentially in a built up area instead of cosistant low levels,
He also says turning carbon in to gasses it worse for the ozone,

This is precisely why I decided not to buy another diesel. Don't get me wrong, I love the driving characteristics, torque and economy of our 1.8TDCi but I think diesel emissions are far more injurious to human health than a petrol engine and the measures taken to try to overcome them are both ineffective and expensive. For a long time now I've had the suspicion that the increase in breathing problems such as asthma is at least partly linked to the use of diesel engines, in the haulage industry and public transport as well as increasingly in private cars.

#347553 Speedo

Posted by mjt on 26 March 2014 - 03:31 PM

On that topic what irritates me are people who dawdle along at 45 on a clear straight road then enter a 30 limit and continue at 45. I just have to wonder what's going on in their brains.

#347412 Osram Cool Blue Intense

Posted by mjt on 25 March 2014 - 10:40 PM

The blue filter layer on these lamps is intended to make the output look whiter by absorbing wavelengths in the yellow region which is where the light output peaks so they must actually give less light than bog standard ones of the same wattage. The energy absorbed will also make the envelope hotter. The only way to get a whiter light without these absorption losses is to run the filament at a much higher temperature which will inevitably shorten its life.

#318053 Do Badly Timed Injectors Sound Like Noisey Tappets On A Petrol Engine?

Posted by mjt on 05 January 2014 - 12:57 PM

Personally I would avoid using engine flush. When an engine is drained not all the oil is recovered. Some remains in oil galleries etc.This is why in the service manual there are different quantities quoted for filling a dry engine compared with refilling after an oil change. This is part of the reason new oil turns black so quickly and means that some of the flush will be left behind and dwindling traces will remain for several oil changes thereafter.