Until they can get Fusion working and generating usable electricity that little combo is as clean and useful as you can get, not that it will make any difference as population increases and so does livestock to support it.
I take Lenny's points. It's a pity that so many have been hoodwinked into buying diesel cars, me included. It was pure luck that I chose the Ford 1.8TDCi which doesn't have a DPF as I didn't know anything about them or their problems at the time. It's been a great car, reliable and lovely to drive but it's now getting time to change it and with what I now know I won't be getting another diesel.
I paid 400 euro for the dpf chamber gutted and remap,
Has since passed MOT with lower emissions than stock
You do realise that the DPF has no bearing on the emissions? They check for nitrous oxides, carbon dioxide and probably carbon monoxide. The DPF is there to trap the particulates which are the cancer-causing particles small enough to get into the bloodstream. The emissions test doesn't detect those. The particulate problem is the main reason I won't be buying another diesel. Particulates have been identified as a serious public health risk so if you consider yourself a responsible member of society you shouldn't be gutting your DPF.
On our 2003-plate the lighting switch has a parking light position anticlockwise from off. You have to push the knob in slightly to select it. This puts the side and tail lights on without the number plate lights and doesn't activate the chime. It's quite easy to turn the control past OFF to this position if you're not aware of it and you happen to be applying enough pressure to the knob. Maybe that's what caught Malcolm's wife out. It definitely chimes in the normal sidelight position.
The light won't give any indication of the state of the glowplugs. You need to disconnect the wiring and do a resistance check. I replaced the plugs in our 1.8TDCi, similar age to yours and done about 89,000 miles at the time. When I tested the plugs I took out three were open-circuit and the fourth was high-resistance.
The glowplug light on ours goes out in under a second, summer or winter, but I found by connecting a lamp across the supply they actually stay on for about 5 seconds. I have read that in really cold conditions they may stay on for a while longer after the engine is started to help warm-up but I haven't tested this.
It does sound as if yours might be getting air in the system when it stands overnight.
As the oil capacity of the engine is 4.25 litres that means it must have virtually run dry of oil which poses the question of how you came to let it get in that state? Unless you have a catastrophic oil leak or it's burning vast quantities you shouldn't have lost 4 litres in a normal service interval. How long since it was serviced? Have you ever checked the dipstick?
If it really needed that quantity of oil it's pretty well certain you've trashed the engine.
I agree with you Darren. As an electronics engineer I have very firm views on what is, or is not, good practice and I want to know how this works. If it is, indeed, detecting a voltage change at the battery I imagine this has been done to simplify installation but personally I wouldn't choose to design something that way.
Mine is connected to the battery and come one when I start the car. I think it's to do with the relay and the drop in voltage when you start the car.
If it works connected that way it must be detecting the rise in battery voltage when the alternator starts charging. If so that seems a bit 'iffy' to me though. Personally I'd want it sourced from an ignition-controlled circuit.
We had the same problem on our 03 1.8Tdci estate when we first bought it. The vss and cluster were both changed but didn't cure it. It was eventually found to be the loom chafing against the gear linkage. Has been fine since (7 years).
No the position of the relay won't make any difference - the overall run length of the wire, battery via relay to horn, will be much the same. The fact you're using thicker than stock and probably a more direct route, hence shorter run, should give an improvement.
I don't know the Mondy body. If the bracket you're referring to is welded to the chassis and you're sure you've got a good clean connection to it then running the new ground wire from it ought to be all that's required. If the bracket is bolted to the chassis you'd need to make sure the electrical contact between the two isn't being degraded by corrosion.
If you're happy with the electrical connections but are still getting poor results the only recourse, really, is to do some voltage checking with the horn operating. Check the voltage across the horn spade terminals if you can get probes onto them and see how much, if any, voltage you're losing. If more than, say, 0.5V then check between the horn ground spade and battery negative terminal and between the horn +ve spade and battery +ve to see if you can pin down where the voltage is being lost.
If I've understood this correctly you've installed a relay near the horns, run a heavy wire to it directly from the battery (fused I hope) and used the stock wiring to operate the relay. If that hasn't improved things I think you'd be right in suspecting it's an earthing issue. If you can stand the racket you could try measuring the voltage between the horn earth point and the battery earth while the horn is operating. Alternatively why not try running a heavy gauge wire between the two earth points.
I may be wrong but I think the antenna length is set to a specific fraction of a wavelength so it is effectively tuned to a small range of frequencies. If you just crop off an arbitrary amount you destroy this tuning. If you live in a strong signal area you probably won't notice it but it's effective range could be compromised.