Its not the cam then it could be the injector solenoids or a good many other things you'll need live data to find out what though on this car the injectors when you switch off go into a ready position so to speak you hear it as a few clicks and a mechanical noise if they don't the car will not idle correctly its impossible to say given these parts aren't cheap diagnosis is cheaper
It could be the maf sensor a coil issue a lambda sensor a hose or it has an ecu issue throttle position sensor cam sensor variator solenoids blocked cat faulty temp sensor fuel pump........
A mobile locksmith will take a heck of a lot less to just supply cut and code I would not do the above the alarm I'm sure will not activate as the chip is there all the time really you could nick the car in a heartbeat
Posted by artscot79
on 01 September 2015 - 05:37 PM
A quick guide on how to do this couldn't get pics as it was pouring down.
2 strut mounts
Extension bar and ratchet
Wheel key and 19mm socket
10mm socket 13mm socket
1.Obtain 2 strut mounts
2.Loosen off rear wheel nuts
3.Jack up car and place on axle stands
4.Remove the interior boot carpet at each side to get access to the 13mm nut in the centre of the shock remove the nut completely
5.using an extension bar remove the two 10mm bolts up inside the rear turret
6. Now pull the shock downwards this allows you to remove the mount and fit the new one
7.to replace put the two 10 mm bolts back in and leave loose
8.now go into the boot and put the new 13mm nut onto the shock and tighten up fully if its at an odd angle and the socket wont go on get someone to push the shock towards the body and it will straighten up
9.back to those 10mm bolts and tighten fully wheels back on job done
You get injector slap which is normal you get a tick from cold sometimes warm irs normal take any new ford ti vct and lift the bonnet you'll hear it you cant normally as ford put an undertray and sound deadening under the bonnet and more bulkhead insulation inside
If there's no loss in power no warning lights leave it alone if it goes later it'll cost more Tha 350 as you'll need new cam variators new oil new oil filter new timing belt and tensioner
Strut top mount would be my first culprit you wont get much side to side movement but up and down it will bang like a brothel headboard that will transfer through the driveshaft making it sound like its somewhere else easy test jack up or park the side that isn't doing it up on a kerb putting load on the culprit side push on the body and listen to the strut mount for noise other than that IDE look at the gearbox mount
as proof of mileage the engine should come with info such as year and spec of car and the recorded mileage of the car it came from i do check engine numbers before buying cars as do many others including dealers if you have a record of that info of the replacement it makes things a lot easier secondly the engine mileage you would want as close to youre cars mileage as possible would you want a car thats done 60k when the engines done 140k
evidence required, will need to be one of the folllowing:
-A reciept of purchase on a headed paper, from a garage, confiriming the
engine number,engine size and the fuel type for the reconditioned or
replacement engine, if one has been fitted.
-an inspection report from a body such as the AA or RAC
-An inspection report provided for insurance purposes.
-Written confirmation from the manufacturer showing the engine number and size
If your existing engine has been converted or the change took place before you bought the vehicle we will accept:
-written confirmation on headed paper from the garage that carried out the conversion; or
-written confirmation of the change on headed paper from an independant garage.
I phoned up DVLA on 01792 782058 to be told that there is new rules
regarding engine replacement and that you must provide evidence of the
DVLA say this
Change to engine and/or cylinder capacity (engine size)
DVLA will need written evidence of any changes to engine number and/or cylinder capacity (cc). Written evidence can be:
* a receipt for the replacement engine
* written evidence from the manufacturer
* an inspection report provided for insurance purposes
* written confirmation on headed paper from a garage if the change in engine size took place before you bought the vehicle
quick clear times out in 5 mins due to the high current it draws you should only use it when its needed and for as little time as possible preferably before driving off if you want to test it put a cup of hot water in the car near the window let it mist up then try the quick clear
Its a belt
That's the right kit
The time to change is a contentious issue on here ignore what ford say that is based on the belt not the tensioner and its the tensioner that usually goes.
As for price it varies around 200 up here at ford I would only get ford to do it with the kit they purchase if something fails ford will fix as its guaranteed an independent doesn't do that as has been posted on here before when an Indy did it wrong most indys don't know to replace the stretch bolts on the tensioner and refit the old ones