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Member Since 14 Oct 2009
Offline Last Active Jul 23 2014 07:15 PM

#122632 2010 Focus 1.6Tdci Rusting!!

Posted by catch on 12 April 2011 - 03:39 PM

Come on Daryll.

get of your butt and post a picture of your problem :P ;) Both Lenny and I have made the effort [for the benefit of others] That way anybody else wanting to confront Ford with this obvious design fault, has the evidence of other Foci with the same problem. Saves time them bullshitting the complainant that its a one off and not their [Fords] problem. Besides Lenny's picture was crap :D

Lenny I agree with you what the problem is, and like you have decided to fix it myself, for the reasons you gave in regard to possibly them just doing a cosmetic job. I've expanded the area until I hit virgin metal. As rust creeps under the paint finish, dependent when remedial action is taken dictates how big an area that is. In my case on a 5.5 year old car it means the rust creep would be more than yours or Daryll's.

Now I treated and applied finish coats a couple of weeks back. And at the time I decided like [yourself] to remove the cause of the problem all be it in a different way. I cut a rectangle of what can best be described as a rubber compound. It was an off cut to a garage door leaf/draft excluder I had fitted a couple of years back. I very rarely throw anything away that at the time I think "that might just come in handy" And the wife has the nerve to call such stuff junk..........women what are they like.......if they cannot smear it on their skin or wear it...its rubbish :rolleyes:

Anyway I've been letting the repaired area harden before super gluing it to the bulkhead, just in case of a possibility of there being a chemical reaction that broke down the paint finish if it was not fully cured. So no picture fitted but here it is

Posted Image

Edit: As it looks massive in the photo, I'll add the rubber patch measurements. They are 35mmm x 20mm, which is way bigger then what I exposed length wise. I'm going to glue it on the short edges and the top edge, on old hardened paintwork. Leaving the bottom unglued in case water does some how creep in from the top. I'm expecting the top and side seals to be water proof, but you never know.

Oh the rubber pad is 2.30mm thick......I measured it with my digital tyre tread depth gauge :ph34r:

#119959 New Foc Supporter Membership

Posted by catch on 24 March 2011 - 11:17 PM

hi mate

It will NEVER be a pay to post forum.

I have been running various boards for 10 years and i have NEVER restricted anyone or EVER will from viewing or posting.

But if someone would like to have more resources on their account and help out the club a little then this is the option.

So no need to worry and keep posting as normal :)

Pleased to hear that Steve.

It is the wording in the subscription membership blurb, that led me to open this thread. When listing the benefits of opting for paid membership.In my opinion [for what its worth] it is misleading to include at the very top of that list, an option that is not dependent on paid membership. :rolleyes:

#113944 2010 Focus 1.6Tdci Rusting!!

Posted by catch on 13 February 2011 - 12:50 PM

not wanting to appear picky artscot79 mate, but as your replying to Lenny, why do you quote my post, and mine having photo's and my detailed replies :rolleyes: in them. Means peeps wanting to read the jist of the thread, have to scroll through a posting they have just read.

Be a mate and edit my content out, the flow of thread will be better for it, anybody else agree?

#111439 Problem Fitting Genuine Ford Front Mudflaps

Posted by catch on 27 January 2011 - 04:53 PM


followed by the inclusion of quote of mine in post number 4 dated 4th May 2010.

In which I was a replying to the Opening Poster, and also indicating that Hawker had indeed posted the solution in post number 3.

I was not asking a question, so why bring my quote up nearly 10 months later? My latest input to this thread was a reply to Karlos wanting to know how they look fitted to just the front or all round.

So may I suggest you try and follow the vain of the thread as it unfolds before posting :rolleyes:

by the way welcome to the forum ;)

#110460 Condensation

Posted by catch on 19 January 2011 - 08:16 PM

The pollen filter on my car is inside the car? I had to remove the fuse box and then a bracket and the slide the filter out, its not any where near the windscreen?

Just lately I've noticed a lot of condensation, especially when the wife's taken it to work.....maybe she's been parking behind the "bike shed" :D

Now the car was five year old back in October, and I'd put money on it never having it's pollen filter change. For the simple reason it's a ball ache to change it, and the punter is certainly not going to check if it has.

At the last service I toyed with the idea and then I thought sod it.

But for anybody wanting to attempt the job, I found this blow by blow account on the web
Attached File  replacing pollen filter.pdf   34.37KB   210 downloads

#90675 Excellent Petrol Injector Cleaning Service 50 To 60

Posted by catch on 31 July 2010 - 09:39 PM

Hi folks,

some of you may already know I tipped up on these Ford forum shores after I sold my Volvo S40 2.0D SE, and bought a Focus petrol. Now whilst I owned the S40 I was a regular member and visitor of the Volvo forum. I learnt some very interesting stuff over there from some very clued up people. Anyway I still pop in now and again, and as you know for many years Ford owned Volvo [ it has been recently sold or is in the process of being bought by the Chinese company, Geely] Anyway up shot is Fords and Volvo's share parts and some engines. So maybe if your struggling for answers you may find them over there if you sign up and ask. I do know some members over there do advise other members to maybe look in on Ford forums for answers, it works both ways.

Anyway I digress a little from the Topic in hand, and that is an excellent Petrol Injector cleaning service.

Don't take my word for it, read the 28 pages of thanks by people who have used the service. And the informative post on the first page explaining the process complete with pictures [before during and after the process] by the guy who offers this service.

He built his own cleaning and testing kit, you could say this guy is an engineer in the truest sense. I personally have not used his services nor have I had occasion to contact him, but I think the 28 pages speak for themselves. Now on the fist page of the thread, the first enquiry was about cleaning diesel injectors, but the OP said he was as then, not geared up for cleaning diesel injectors. That may have changed, it may not I have not checked. But safe to say he is offering a well received service cleaning Petrol Injectors and not just for Volvo cars, but any make.

So there you have it a service out there at a very reasonable price and a very quick turn around. You can post or you can deliver to his home. On the threads he explains how to remove the injectors etc or you may want your local mechanic to do them, up to you.

Here is the link here is one

This is an excellent informative article entitled Troubleshoot Fuel Injectors

Worth a sticky ?

#90634 '05 Focus Tailgate/boot Problem

Posted by catch on 31 July 2010 - 01:15 PM

2006 Focus 1.8 TDI

Hi all,

Thought i'd add my issue as well. Like others above, i also couldn't open the boot with the boot switch, only with the remote. I removed the rubber boot from the switch, in which water came out, and pushed and pulled a wee bit at the switch and now it works...I didn't remove the trim surrounding the switch but sprayed WD40 in there. If it happens again I'll take the trim off. Like others my car has just had the alternator replaced and thus had the battery disconnected... This seems to be more than a coincidence as others have already found but how can the 2 be connected in this problem???!

How do i remove the trim to get at the microswitch contacts?...do i just remove the screws from the reg plate light holders??

Also, where is the fuse for this switch?...i can't find its location in the manual.


OP has not bothered to come back and update their progress or lack of so.............I just so love that when it happens :rolleyes:

Anyway djw3146 made up for that in a big way with his post, so to him and paramaniac and chris I'll say the following.

This boot not opening manually does seem to crop up a fair bit, there again myself having a Mk2 1.6 petrol, I do not have this problem. I will say this though, I have had rusting on the inside of the boot lid bulkhead at the top directly behind the third brake light on the boot lid. I also last week noticed [now fixed] on the same part of the bulkhead, paint bubbling just above the big rubber grommet where the water feed for the rear screen washer comes out of the bulkhead. Again two instances where water from outside is getting where it shouldn't. In my case untreated metal starts to rust, so not the same problem per say, but indicative that water obviously is the villan here.

I've just popped out to the car to see how it actually works. Because real life if an action is actioned as it should, you just don't give it another thought as to what actually takes place to achieve the end result. So here goes:-

First off to the question how do you get to the switch, well it looks like it is housed in the conflagration that encompasses the licence plate bulb housing. But the actual housing may be secured to the boot lid via screws hidden by the plastic covering on the back of the boot lid. Now I think that plastic bit is secured via two hidden screws, one each in the two recess's where you grip with your hands to pull the boot lid shut.

I have not removed either said plastic liner or the rear light housing/boot trigger housing on the outside of the boot lid. So I'm surmising in what I say in regards to how it all works, but I will say I'm a time served electrician by trade, though not auto electrician.

But I assume what happens when you manually attempt to open the boot lid, is that you by your action close two contacts on a micro switch. This then supplies the electrical feed to a solenoid [a coil of wire] that when energised by the supply of electricity creates a magnetic field. This magnetic field in turn moves a metal rod that is position in the centre of the energised coil. That action releases the boot lid from its closed position, same way as when you use the remote to open it.

When you use the remote a signal is sent to an electrical relay [ which substitutes your action when you attempt to open it manually] In that it closes two contacts that send an electrical feed to the aforementioned solenoid. When the electrical feed is removed the metal rod then reverts back to being influenced by a spring that pulls it back to it's non magnetically induce position. ie: the closed position. In actual fact when said solenoid is energised the lid moves from a position of being held closed, but not actually opened, you obviously have to raise the lid. So the boot lid is obviously weighted, in that to goes from closed to a position of being ready to open. And when you pull the boot lid closed the momentum of that action over comes the influence "momentarily" of the aforementioned spring. The boot lid is then returned to the closed position. On locking the car remotely or by the key, the electrical feed to the manual release micro switch is cut.

So if it opens remotely we know the solenoid is working. If it does not open manually it is because either the micro switch is not working, or the feed to the micro switch is not there. Easy way to check this is to "short" out the two wires that connect to the switch. If the solenoid does it job, you know the fault lies in the micro switch. If it is water ingress that is bugging up the micro switch. You need to replace the switch, and try and ensure water does not get into the switch housing again. Blue tack will stop water penetration, but you have to ensure you do not obstruct the movement of the micro switch. Bathroom sealant may be another solution, but I cannot say for sure, because like I say I have not exposed the workings of the set up on my car.

Right I'm a one finger typist, so I would appreciate it if the time I've spent putting this post together, at least gets a reply if somebody does indeed affect a solution of the problem.

#70872 Got To Share This

Posted by catch on 12 March 2010 - 03:40 PM