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  1. Yesterday
  2. I have noticed my headlights have also started to Flicker with all the electrics on in the car, (radio, heated front and rear windscreen, heater full blast, ac on, and dipped beams, and both fog lights) i am starting to wonder if my alternator is going out
  3. I would check the wheel alignment, i had a similar thing, the force of me fighting side winds at motorway speeds on my fiesta caused the wheel alignment to change
  4. In terms of Mats, i would recommend Fiesta specific ones with retaining clips, I am not sure about the MK8s, but in the MK7.5 if the matt doesn't have a cut out for the accelerator pedal the pedal can't go all the way to the floor and if its not far back enough, the pedal can get stuck under it, what i did was get a cheap generic set, modified it with a knife, got some after market retaining clips, made holes for them and then put them on, the retaining clips are important because they stop the mat moving forward and causing the accelerator to get caught on the mat
  5. It could be bad weather seals/rubber around your door frames and boot, leaky sunroof if you have one, or maybe holes in the floor. It possibly won't be rusty floors with holes as your car is fairly recent. Look for damage to the door and boot seals rubber seals like, cracks, holes, bad fitment/loose. I can't think of anything else that may be causing this apart from you filling your car up with buckets of water😜
  6. They seem to go out fairly regularly in Fords for some reason, i am on my second replacement after 4 years
  7. That’s Aquarius Blue I believe. As Luke says, you could get parts from a later model and do a facelift conversion if you want but I don’t believe the facelift was offered in that colour. This should be perfect:
  8. On an electronic handbrake then yes provided it is selected.
  9. Ells

    Erratic Speedo

    I’m going to get it plugged in to see if any fault codes are stored. I’ll report back once it’s sorted . Thanks guys
  10. I have had very similar problem that started off the same , but has got worse ,I use to lock and unlock the car with fob , like yours if red light flashed fast it wouldn't start . Now other issues have started happening , wipers would start on there own for one wipe, hazard lights would flash once , now yesterday the car would start and then cut out within 30 seconds , tried several times same issue, then just by keep trying started ok. I use to sit in car using the remote key locking and unlocking car until got steady red light , but now sometimes fob key won't lock doors. Any help would be really appreciated and if anyone could advice what diagnostic reader to buy to see what errors it brings up would be real helpful. My model is fiesta Mk6 1.25 petrol 2007. Thank you I have just joined this site Michael.
  11. Hi all just reading above messages and I've just come across this problem hence why I looking on this forum .. my radio seemed to be playing up not working and my instrument display won't go off at all now its drained battery has anyone fixed there problem yet and can help please thanks
  12. Im assuming its the mk3 focus on your profiled? Do you have climate control or manual dials?
  13. This what google had to say about error code P061C: Possible causes Faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) CKP harness is open or shorted CKP circuit poor electrical connection Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) CMP harness is open or shorted CMP circuit poor electrical connection Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
  14. Do you mean the panels that do not contain the holes in them? I recently added some fog lights and have the trim left over, they have been sprayed black. If you wanted original colour you could strip the paint some how. If you pay for postage you can have them for £5 for pair, I’m not using them. You could however add fog lights, at not much of an extra cost. The wiring should already be there, all you would need is a 6S6T13A024BA switch £10-£15, and the trim that contain the holes in £20-£25 and the fog lights, which can be bought for around £15, all items from ebay. Total cost for all items around about £50.
  15. Condensation inside car is due to damp/leak. If you don't fix the leak you don't fix condensation. Heavy breathing or wet seats from rain causes it too.😉
  16. Aren't you meant to check your tyres at least once a week anyway especially if you do a couple of hundred miles a week? If you have an accident and your tyres are not properly inflate it gives the police an opportunity to prosecute and insurance company not to pay up. Wrongly inflated tyres can cause car to swerve on emergency stop. If you bump up Kerbs or drive over potholes with alloy wheels they buckle!
  17. If it was last serviced just before you bought it over a year ago then it's now due another service regardless. You need to read the codes and come back. It's a bit like trying to play a game of darts whilst blindfolded otherwise.
  18. Please start a new thread instead of posting to a dead one. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  19. This months Auto Express (Dec special) has Fiesta 125 Hybrid vs Hyundai i20 hybrid comparison test. I bought it for the all-season tyre test which is also included in it.
  20. Yeah straight swap. As long as you've got the right petrol/diesel variant then it is just plug and play. If using one from a facelift in the pre-facelift you do lose a couple of things. I believe auto dimming and sound for the parking sensors but can't remember. Mileage is also stored in the cluster so would need adjusting to match your car.
  21. I know nothing to do with Covid, but.
  22. Sorry, haven't logged in in a few days. Really glad you got the immobiliser issue sorted, but unfortunately now a whole host of other issues. My knowledge of the dash lights and console is next to nothing, I've really only worked on the engine and happened to see that transponder video. I think TomsFocus will be your best bet here. Sorry I can't help any more!
  23. Woopsie, sorry I missed your comment about the VGT actuator not moving. Yep, definitely check that out. Looks for leaks in the vacuum line between the actuator and the boost regulator. If you find nothing there, it may be the regulator itself. You need to get the car up and under it to reach the regulator, I believe. If the VGTDC readout is changing but the actuator is not, there is almost certainly either 1) a vacuum leak or 2) the vanes in the turbo are sticky and coked up. You can test for carbon and sticky vanes by simply pushing down on the actuator when the engine is off (or vacuum line disconnected). You should be able to move it up and down with little pressure. Failing that, probably a vacuum leak or dodgy regulator.
  24. It was the same on our old 17plate Kuga, while chugging along the motorway at 70mph I went to hit the re-circ button and for some reason hit the boot open button. Was rather relieved when it just beeped at me as the thought of emptying the boot over the M27 didn't thrill me. Not sure on our 69plate but I'd be very surprised if it was different. You should be able to clear the oil change message by just pushing the "OK" button on the left of the steering wheel.
  25. Is there an way to check thermostat on focus MK2. Temp gauge doest seem to move when idle. I'm have forscan can that test it if that helps.
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