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Just try using the original Apple cable but with a USB-C to A adapter

LOUDER!!!

Think the last time a post like this came up it was agreed either going with updated pads or ST spec calipers and discs were the better options for bolt-on upgrades. Even then the ST parts route could push to needing larger diameter wheels than currently fitted

Find the engine number on the engine and see if it matches the VIN Ford engines always match the VIN

A PATS error code 16 is a communications failure between the Instrument cluster and the PCM. The usual suspect is the instrument cluster solder joints but it can also be wiring related. Check this post for help diagnosing it

The keys have a unique transponder chip inside of them. No batteries are needed.

All injectors getting pulse signal from PCM, tested with Noid light High pressure fuel sensor replaced from known working engine. No start

Got round with out taking full door casing off. Pain but got the switch out and replaced with brand new one from fords. Thanks for the advice guys.

Morning, My driver's side fog light has gone out last night. Believe it's the LED unit with cornering light function. Is this a sealed unit or is it possible to replace the bulbs? If the unit needs replacing is it a bumper off job or is there easy access removing the trim around the fog light or access from under car? MK4 68 plate. Cheers!

Thanks for the link troy, i saw that to, but that is for 2010-2014 models only, mine is 2016, might have to call them and ask specifics, having to paint the difuser or bumper would not be a problem. even getting a twin exaust, tho i wonder what that center lamp will do, if possible id like to wire that to.

Very clean I got a blue focus lx and recently sprayed my stock ford hubcaps black

Hi I Have a 2019 Ford Focus Active, a while ago my Sync/carplay (which was the original version to when I bought the car) started having issues losing it's memory halfway through a playlist, this was always after I'd stopped the car and started again, every so often it would just forget what it was playing and default to radio or ignore any playlists and start playing my all my music from the beginning (I use a good quality USB to store my music). I'd never had problems for the first 3 years I owned the car (using the same USB) and it was due for it's service so I took it to the dealer, we agreed that it appeared to be a minor data corruption issue and they said they would reload Sync. This seemed to fix that problem but they didn't just reload the original Sync they upgraded it to Sync 3.4 (build 23188) and ever since then all my album art that I put so much work into have become pixelated as if they are low grade images (they aren't), they looked great before, I tested different sized images and files with the same result. It appears to me that it's a screen resolution issue which would be an easy fix if it were a PC, I'm assuming this version of Sync 3.4 is for the larger 10 inch screen rather than my 7.2 inch. My Ford dealer don't seem to know much about Sync so I was hoping someone here could help track down the cause. I'd happily go back to an earlier version of Sync if it gave me back my album covers and artist photos. Thanking you all in advance for any input. Dean

if you have access to a multi meter set it to 20v dc and take the plug off the back of the socket and test for voltage. i've known a lot of these be the socket and normally just needs a replacement fitted in and plugged in. if im not mistaken it will be a perm live connection so you should get voltage even with the engine off, however if you dont get voltage put the igition lights on and check again. if you dont get anything after that then it will be fuse/wire related but that is the easiest and first test you should do as you have already looked at the fuse that is there.

with mine i only remade the injection part of the loom, and so far it hasnt had a problem since. i dont use the car daily now as i drive a company car but every time i do use it there's never a problem. (or at least there's never an injection/drive train problem) lol As Uni said though whats the story with your? are you sure its the same problem! have you ran scans (with forescan) for detailed codes! Any info you can throw up on here will help to determine what the best route is for you to go down the guys on here have been no end of help to me sorting out issues. They do however require some info. What model is the car? what year is the car? what size engine is in it? do you have a reading with codes? what is or isnt the car doing? what have you tried to fix it? im sure if you post answers to the questions i listed someone will be able to point you in the right direction. it will also help to know how much you know about cars in general and if you think you can do the work or if you would be looking to take it to somewhere that can do the work for you. re-making the loom wasnt very hard but you will need to use the right rating cables and have the rite tools to fit connectors that will be safe in the engine bay and resist water/oil ingress.

yes, they have the exact nr of bolt holes and the distance between them is exactly the same...I was more worried about the interior part if will affect the suspension by beeing to close the the parts or something.As for the exterior arch, i don;t think it will be a problem if it's a bit outside, it may look better..

I don't know the answer to your question but if you just had an advisory for light misting then I personally would not change it unless it obviously was not doing its job. I had light misting on one of mine, I cleaned it and it has not shown any signs of leaking since and that was a long time ago.

yes and was running fine after then changed crank sensor not ran since engine turns over but doesn't want to fire up. won't even with the old sensor.

Thanks for the reply, I managed to get my hands on a manual and I located the fuse. It wasn't blown but I removed it and cleaned the contacts, replaced it, now everything works. Now I can go back driving around in 1990s comfort. Thanks again for the advice.

You’ll get no warning if you don’t reset the BMS. The only important bit it does is reset the stored battery age counter. It will then adapt the charging and protection profiles depending on the age of the battery.

The only parts that would make such from exhaust except the catalyst, are the spiral part and the muffler (back box). It is not impossible but not so possible other parts to make such noise.

Surely not !!! The insurance companies have all been warned about "New Customer Only" deals 🤣

Is your 2022 Transit not still under warranty ? I can understand the Ford dealer saying they can't get to the module, so in that case I would be pushing this problem straight back to the company that did the conversion.

Ford dealer, parts department. eBay Amazon to name but just a few options.

....and as a point of pure trivia. The first Zetec-branded engine was the Zeta family, introduced for the 1992 model year powering the fifth generation of the European Ford Escort, the third generation Orion and the Mk.3 Fiesta. The engine was originally available in 1.6 and 1.8 liter versions with a 2.0 liter version appearing in 1993 in the all-new Mondeo. The "Zeta" name was dropped in favour of "Zetec" when Italian car maker Lancia threatened to sue Ford for trademark infringement. The advanced Zetec-SE (In the UK badged as Zetec-S) was developed in collaboration with Yamaha and Mazda, under the Sigma codename. It ranges in size from 1.2 to 1.7 L (1,242 to 1,679 cc). It is very different from the Zeta engine – the intake and exhaust are even on opposite sides.