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  2. I like it, the new theme is good. And overall seems abit snappier. Also seems to of fixed a couple of annoying things I had on 3.0 Matt
  3. If you're leaking that much fuel, it must be visible on the floor under the car surely!? There's no chance of 64mpg in that car, but 45mpg is a more reasonable average. Maybe a daft question but was the tank definitely full the first time? Sometimes the easyfuel system can make the pump click off too soon, but you would have noticed the fuel gauge wasn't at max if that was the case!
  4. I had this some years ago on two separate Fords, accelerator position sensor was at fault.
  5. Thanks for the offer, Ted...I'm 200 miles away though if your location on here is still correct! What do you use for that btw? Carista dongle? I've been after something to use with the VAGDPF app as I currently have all diags on laptop which can be a pain. I must admit, the cheap VCDS has been invaluable so far though, only bought it to activate cruise on the A3 last year, but since then it's done plenty of fault reads and added things like auto-locking on the Golf. Plus swapping an entire gateway module & adding cruise on a neighbours Mk5...which I was a bit worried about lol! Made an interesting discovery yesterday though...I couldn't hear the fuel pump prime at all... First time I got in and immediately realised I always have the fans and stereo come on with ignition so wouldn't have heard it normally. But switched those off when I parked...came back an hour later, switched the ignition on, and still no pump whine! 😮 Either it's very well soundproofed, or it holds enough pressure not to need priming until it's cranked. Either way, I'll try VCDS on it as that seems to be the generally approved way. As said earlier, I'll need to use VCDS to reset the longlife service interval as well (can only reset standard time & distance through dash) so I'll need to take the laptop out anyway.
  6. Today
  7. Weather? Check. Only one car on the drive? Check. Kids playing nicely on their own? Check. Time to get tooled-up with the snow foam lance - cover me lads, I'm going in
  8. Hi guys, Until recently I have been driving Volvo and accessed parts from a company (Skandix) who had a downloadable catalogue dedicated to each model, these catalogues had every part for the car with the manufacturers part numbers. Granted this company wasn't the cheapest on the market but they also weren't Volvo prices. What I'm looking for now is a similar company that provides the same thing but for Ford. Anybody got any links?
  9. That's ok, the OP has managed to build a time machine and bring back a Mk5 Focus.
  10. I agree. No car is perfect but the more I drive my MK4 the more I'm impressed with it.
  11. Thanks for the posts guys, sorry for not responding quicker. Yea, shockingly enough the car has yet to cause me any trouble ever since. Although I can just... feel it... you know? It's coming! 😅 Any time now! 😅 There is however an odd noise from the passenger side, possibly suspension. It sometimes makes a slight shingle noise when going over speed humps. Sounds like a brace is a little loose and makes a click. I've also observed that the gearbox makes a clicking noise when you put it into reverse, have been told this is the gearbox mount that needs replacing. At this point it would make sense to replace the chassis, and buy some new 19 plates to match. Blah 😄
  12. It probably depends on which settings it gives, surely they are different depending on load carried.
  13. I drain mine out and pop in a couple of bottles of kettle descaler, press the buttton for a few seconds, front and rear, slosh loads of water on the paint work straight`away, again leave to stand for a few minutes, purge the tank empty using short presses on front and rear buttons make sure to slosh the paintwork well with clean tap water. Refill tank with ready mixed screenwash fluid and carry on with life.
  14. On the RS you select neutral, undo the clip on the cable, shift to 4th, ensure the selector mechanism is mid-way (Neutral), push clip home.
  15. I would be very annoyed if that was mine. I would also be worried about using it. These engines are well known for suffering damage very quickly when there is a coolant leak before you even realise it’s leaking.
  16. Is there any gas pressure when the dipstick is pulled out or the oil cap removed, you may have excessive blow by or a defective PCV system pushing the stick out with excess crank case pressure
  17. Yesterday
  18. Tbh I'd be more concerned if there was little or no condensation. Long live the car [emoji106] Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  19. Could be an intermittent clutch pedal sensor. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  20. Hi, Thought I'd update you all on the outcome. Had a scan done and it was showing a network issue, basically an electrical fuse, joint, earth, connection was faulty somewhere on the car. The guy said it would mean going through every wire to try find the issue. When he went I looked at the sensor connections and fuses in the engine bay, cleaning and disconnecting and reconnecting each one. The fault went and it started! So, it was fixed. Unfortunately a couple of times after that the same fault occured, engine fault light came on and it cut out. I wiggled the wires and connections again and fault went! To solve the problem, I in turn when the fault appeared, moved each connector one at a time until fault went and I narrowed it down to the fuel return pipe sensor that is fastened underneath the inlet manifold, still don't know the purpose of it? I examined the connector and wires and discovered that both the wires had rubbed through the covering and were bare wires causing it to intermittently short together. I've cut wires, put in a connector and wrapped in insulation tape and it all seems fine now. At the same time I removed the 2 other sensors on the inlet manifold as they were covered in gunk and the car seems a lot smoother runner than before 👍
  21. I went for a service (read oil change) at twelve months too, just after I bought the car. Can't be too careful, plus I do a lot of short journeys.
  22. Billc I agree as annoying as it is , suppose no choice but to wait for an update Not like the old skool days you could whip out a stereo if it was shoody and replace it don't think this is possible with the infotainment systems
  23. @Phil21185 you manage to test out the auto park without the ABS sensors yet ? ive managed to find my issue with left sensor. Was a bad connection. So hopefully Sunday I can finally fit the sensors and loom. Tomorrow is going to be raining all day. Damn weather.
  24. really appreciate the vid mate, but simply don't have the time nowadays... between a court case, looking for a new job, and all the other jobs around the house there's zero time for this job at least for the next few months!
  25. @Monks600 if you bought the sync adapter of amazon. Buy a long yellow rca lead and run that to the boot handle and power and ground from either your reverse light or preferably from an ignition 12v supply from somewhere. Easiest thing I’ve done yet.
  26. I think the HCV works on a variable mark/space square wave, not an analogue DC voltage. Substitution is the easiest method of checking, unless you have access to a voltmeter to see if the mean voltage to the HCV varies as you adjust the heater control - Puma website may have some posts on the HCV
  27. I have just purchased a C-Max with a few dings and scratches on it. I wish to know if I can put an engine cover on the car. I was informed that it doesn't come with said cover from the factory but what he said he cannot confirm as certain. My car is a 2010, 10 plate Ford C-Max Zetec 1.6l Manual Petrol in Black. 5-speed, electric front windows blacked out rear and rear passenger windows. Any help in this would be very much appreciated.
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