Scraping sound from one brake so removed and examined disc pads, surprised they were not worn down, rotor disc in good condition, piston not jammed, dust cover not rubbing.

What to check next ?

Thanks in advance.

After contacting Ford directly with my registration and VIN, I was told that official mudflaps for this specific vehicle were not available. I found that hard to believe, so after a bit of trial and error, I can confirm that the following Ford part numbers fit the car perfectly:

• Front Mudflaps: Part No. F2318335

• Rear Mudflaps: Part No. F2318337

If you have been told they don't exist or won't fit your ST, these are the ones you need. I hope this helps anyone else looking to add some extra protection to their MK8!

Parts Required, some part numbers you may have already so check.

FORSCAN IS REQUIRED AS WELL FOR PROGRAMMING

IPMA Camera: H1BT19H406CE (C* Model allows Lane Keep, Pre-collision and Traffic Sign Detection)
CCM Cruise Control Module: H1BT9G768AG
CCM Bracket: H1BT9G853AE
CCM Nuts: 1709798
CCM Bolts: 1445005 (these are HEX M5 x 18mm I bought my own much cheaper)
Steering Wheel Button: H1BT9E740DB (I found a cheap steering wheel £50 which had button fitted was able to strip it out)

Wiring harness, you can either make one yourself, buy a Radar sometimes with plug still attachedfrom ebay or buy a complete Radar Package from someone on FB/ Forums called Luca Scopece RS (This will save time and hassle).

If Making harness then you need the following wires.

RADAR to IPMA wiring Loom

1 – +12V - can go from any wire live when engine running OR - Pin4 on IPMA Camera (easiest)
2 – CanBus NEG - GY/BU – PIN 11 on IPMA Camera
3 – CanBus POS - BN/BL – PIN 3 on IPMA Camera
4 – GND - Any good Body Ground point several near headlights, bumpers etc.

Fitting

Bumper and front plastic crashbar cover removal, lots of videos on youtube for this but essentially pull back each FRONT wheel liner, one bolt at a 45 degree angle, a few plastic riv nuts under front edge of bumper and I think 4 plastic rivnuts and metal screws holding to where bonnet closes then it pulls off (leave 2 plastic rivnuts on top to help if you’re on your own)

Once front bumper is off, unclip plastic crash bar cover, insert the 4 special nuts into their holders, place the radar sensor and bracket through the hole in the rubber, push into place (2 plastic pegs) then bolt in using the four M5x18mm bolts.

Route the wiring below the active shutter grille if fitted, using zip ties or tape, route to the passenger side, up the side and through under the headlight, here you will see a couple of ground points you can use, undo bolt, put wires under and tighten back up, use a ring connector if possible and tape up or solder.

In order to get into cabin via existing loom grommet I removed the battery and the plastic battery holder, much easier and quicker in my opinion than struggling. Follow existing wiring loom from headlight, zip tie as you go, route it under the bonnet release cable in case you ever need to replace that! Finally make a small hole in the grommet being very careful about an inch or so higher than loom to avoid damaging wires, use a metal/ wire coat hanger to pull the 3 wires through, it will appear behind the glove box, route up and into the passenger LEFT corner, up into the side cavity and gently pull back the plastic covering, there is a curtain airbag behind it, route wires behind that so as not to hinder if ever needed, come across the edge of the roof lining and remove the 2 plastic cover from the IPMA camera behind rear view mirror, its just clipped in but a little faffy, either use the supplied adapter if you bought from Luca on FB or splice/ solder said wires into the camera loom. The back of the camera from memory has the pin numbers on or the back or the plug itself does. Refit everything.

Programming on Forscan – You will get DTC’s until all changes are made!

You may not need to all the programming depending on which camera you have, if you want pre Collison detection or not bothered.

BdyCM Module – Cruise Control – Adaptive Cruise Control

ABS Module – Adaptive Cruise Control – Present

IPMA Camera Module – Adaptive Cruise Control – Enabled & Adaptive Cruise Control Type – Radar Fusion  

SCCM Steering Module – Steering Wheel Left Switch – H1BT-9E740-D* / anything else after this ok

IPC Module – Adaptive Cruise Control – Enable & Adaptive Cruise Control Menu - Enabled & Adaptive Cruise Control Switch – Enabled

Once above is programmed clear all DTC if you get any U codes then there is a programming issue, the last thing you may need to do is calibrate the Radar, in Forscan there is an option to do this, start it and follow instructions, drive for 20 mins at 30mph or above until it detects around 250 metal objects then it completes automatically and stops. Sometimes when changing IPMA this also resets calibrations so do that as well. When it gets to 100% press the stop button as its not automatic.

When pressing the cruise SET button you should now have a slightly different indicator icon and also you will see a grid line come up on screen, when a car is detected in front a car will appear, pressing and holding the left ACC button will change where the car sits, this is the gap between you and the car in front that the car will leave.

Check attached photos of IPC / Bumper fitting locations.

Any questions or issues with the instructions let me know below and I will amend (I did this retro fit over a few weeks so may have forgotten some things)

Button with Active Button, Speed Limit button, and active speed set button

 Front bumper off revealing location of the bracket fitting aread

Location of the bracket, hook through hole, insert nuts and bold into place.

Final Testing showing speed set, new icon car grid and a car in front of me.

The glass has been smashed, and as far as I understand, I need to replace the entire unit/housing.

Does anyone know where else I could look? Would eBay be a good option?

Thank you :)

Any ideas of what I could do to improve my clutch situation?

I have read online that the MK8 rear lights, which were halogen bulbs. on mine originally, can be swapped straight out, plug and play.

I have since swapped my rear lights out to LEDs recently and have found that only the one on the right works for the inner LEDs. i have plugged the right one into the left connector and it works just fine.

Anyone got any suggestions on what could cause this?

Any ideas?

Would anyone be able to recommend a reputable garage/business in the West Yorkshire area to change the wet belt on a 2015 Ford Fiesta?

Thanks,

Andy.

Ive got a ford fiesta zetech the old version, 1.25cc 2005 the fan never turns on, the temperature stays within the norm but can't hear the fan at all ever its been 2 years now, ive used an car scanner app and obd2 lme, and ive got an P0646 error code on the app but nothing on the dash, the code says ac compressor clutch relay low voltage but my car doesn't have a ac system installed at all, ive tried so many things nothing works

Thanks in advance

car is fiesta st line 2018

Whenever I start the car after it's been sitting overnight, I get a message on the screen that says Engine oil pressure low. It stays on for maybe 2-3 seconds and then disappears completely. After that, it never comes back — even when I drive on the motorway, uphill, stop and start in traffic, etc. If I park for like 20 minutes and start it again, there's no warning at all.

The car runs smoothly with no strange noises or performance issues. I had an oil and filter change recently, but the receipt doesn't say what oil was used. A local mechanic said to check with a proper garage if it continues, since he can't measure oil pressure himself.

Is this just normal cold-start behaviour (oil settling overnight), or should I be worried it's something more serious?

Been trying to get this functioning for some time... Wiring added from dash to existing correct clock spring and switches etc. clutch and brake already wired oem..

The car sits on 205/45x17 and initially had a petrol gearbox fitted in place of the 3.05 oem box. I fitted it as it was sold as a 1.6 tdci econetic box. I knew as soon as I drov it the gearing was lower. Anyway, drove it around for a bit, programmed the scm bcmii etc and the cruise light on the dash responds to selections from the buttons when in 2nd and 3rd above about 26mph or so..the other buttons all function, cancel, res etc...I altered the tyre size and circumference in the preselected box, saving the data and rebooting the module via forscan...all still the same.  In the meantime I had a bcmii misconfig error which apart from the MIL lamp didnt affect anything on the car. I assumed it was the box ratios contributing and just drove the car until I sourced another correct gearbox which I've just fitted.  I've been messing with the laptop and returned the asbuilt data to the bcmii ie the non cruise and std tyres/circumference.  This cleared the incompatibility error. Still the cruise functioned the same. I've just come back in from editing the tyres and circumference again and now have another incompatibile error on the PCM this time..I guess the PCM HEX needs adjusting but cant find any data on what a cruise parameter in the PCM ought to be...So, unless theres something else anyone can think of, how would I go about getting the correct code to enter at the correct place in the PCM ?  Guessing its not an easy ask.. 🤭 thanks for reading,

Dov

Thanks for any advice / guidance on this. 

Cheers Drew

It is too fast for me to read, all i can make out is that it begins with full

Any ideas guys? 

The only thing i can see is it starts with full

Any ideas guys?

It is literally every minute

PARTS NEEDED - Genuine Ford Camera, 3 wires of simmilar colours + Red and Black, pry tools for getting clips undone, soldering iron (Or joiners/ scotchlocks), wire coathanger or simmilar

ForScan & ODBII Adapter- Required to enable reversing camera once fitted.

TIP : To remove the old boot control button theres silver clips on each edge in the middle (look on your new camera for exact location) push with a pry tool or finger and lever out then hold out, and push another in, eventually you can lever it out. if you break the plastic they are hard to re-fit tighly in place.

Theres 5 wires in total, 2 for power and earth these can stay in tailgate, 2 wired to sync module behind dashboard speedo and 1 to the BCM under passenger glove box.

Wiring is as follows.

Camera Pin 1 to Pin 1 on wiper motor (12v live on run)

Camera Pin 2 to Pin 59 on BCM (Lin06)

Camera Pin 3 Video Negative to Pin 15 on sync module

Camera Pin 4 Video Plus to Pin 14 on sync module

Camera Pin 5 on Camera (earth) to bolt that secures rear wiper motor.

Circuit Pin Outs - From Camera

Wire colours (On Car)

Washer motor black thick (labelled pin 1)
BCM Pin 59 (Yellow/Violet)
Sync Pin 15 Vid Negative (brown/violet)
Sync Pin 14 Vid Positive(White/Green)

I ran the BCM wire across roof down passenger side down pillar to BCM and I run the 2 video wires down the driver’s side roof down the pillar across to the sync module. I didn’t have a connector so made my own using a lipo/JST Style battery connector and hot glued it in place once tested it worked. I used a wire coat hanger straightened out to feed wires through the rubber seals between body and boot lid then wrapped with some automotive cloth tape for that’s full OEM look.

You can scotch lock the wires where you need to or I think you can now buy a sync cable splitter thing that adds a phono plug but its really not necessary and if your attempting this you’ve probably got the skills to connect wires anyway.

I looked on ebay for the wires and tried to match them to the existing but its not perfect for example I had to get yellow wire with red pin stripe as couldn’t get violet but it doesn’t really matter what colour you use, so long as you know what you’ve wired (Keep notes).

Heres a video of it working, and a picture of the BCM plug you need to find and also the rubber tube to feed through.

BCM Connector plug as it sits under footwell

Rubber tube on body to boot lid.