connect tdci ran out of diesel now wont start

[connect-driver]

Ran out of diesel on motorway, put two cans in tank wouldn't start (now know you've no chance without getting fuel to filter)

Got van home, this is what I've tried thus far;



Pulled fuel up to filter with primer bulb pump, cranked loads, no start.



Changed filter (filled with fuel).

Took#1 injector pipe off and tried to squeeze fuel through, nothing came out

Cranked engine over, nothing came out of #1 pipe.



Next day

Connected primer bulb between filter and pump -whilst cranking over, pumped primer bulb, repeated lots, no joy.

Next day sprayed brake cleaner in intake, engine runs, squeezed bulb simultaneously. The primer bulb was definitely pumping fuel through somewhere. Repeated lot's. No joy



Next day towed van up and down road in 3rd gear for couple of miles (stopped every 500meters or so to pump bulb)



Today, checked pump belt (not broken), took off intercooler, loosened banjo on pump and bled out some air. Loosened pipe that exits pump to the fuel distributor but couldn't pump any diesel of there -too dark, gave up and came in.



Error code show P0190 fuel rail outside operating pressure (as expected)



What should I do next (apart from "float testing" van in nearest canal)😁

Maybe I didn't run out of fuel and pump is knackered or injector leaking, or maybe pump is now knackered from all the cranking/towing I've done since?

Any advice welcome 😕

 

[connect-driver]

Had some more time on the connect and I'm confident pump is pumping diesel and the rail is getting fuel and 99% of air is bled from fuel rail.

Does the code P0190 fuel pressure error need resetting/deleting or will it "go away" when required fuel press is reached? Thanks in advance 

[Tdci-Peter]

1 hour ago, connect-driver said:

Does the code P0190 fuel pressure error need resetting/deleting or will it "go away" when required fuel press is reached?

It is always a good idea to record error codes, and then clear them, unless the van is going to a garage. If its next stop is the local canal , then it will certainly do no harm to clear it.

The high pressure side of common rail diesels is always good at self-priming. Undoing high pressure (22,000PSI) pipes can cause leaks, and get dirt, even just wear debris from the pipe fittings, into injectors, so is not really recommended. Monitoring the fuel rail pressure with a diagnostic system is a safe way to see if fuel is getting to the rail. It is the low pressure part of Ford fuel systems that is the real pig to get going once air gets in. You are lucky in that the vans have a built in primer. Cars have nothing!

That said, P0190 can be caused by a faulty sensor, or its wiring. If you know the rail is pressurised, but the sensor reading stays low, or is a silly value, then that would confirm a faulty sensor or wiring.

It is very rare that a stored code will prevent a vehicle from starting. It may cause a limited power mode, but that is all. The code itself is unlikely to self clear, at least for quite a few ignition cycles, though the warning light may go out after one or two successful starts.

The only codes I have come across that will prevent starting are immobiser related ones like theft codes. They do have to be cleared first.

[connect-driver]

Thanks for the reply Peter, (van has no primer, had to fit temporary one after being recovered). The rail pressure is reading at 2000bar /200000kpa which I've read somewhere is a default value when the sensor/harness is knackered/has a fault.

Is there an easy way to test the sensor? 

[Tdci-Peter]

38 minutes ago, connect-driver said:

Is there an easy way to test the sensor? 

Sadly, no, at least not fully.

I manufacture and routinely test pressure transducers, but 1500Bar is way out of my range! And out of reach of any easily available test kit.

I have used Forscan to log the output of the rail sensor both while running, and while starting. On my car, the pressure drops to about 2 bar (200kPa) while standing, then rapidly rises to about 200Bar (20MPa) while cranking, at which point the engine fires up and the rpm & pressure rise rapidly, to about 300Bar (30MPa) at idle.

But with the output stuck at 2000Bar, that sounds like a duff transducer. Back-probing the sensor connector might double check whether the ECU is giving a false reading, or there is a wiring fault, or sensor fault. These transducers almost always have a simple 3 wire connection: +5v, ground and a signal. The signal is usually either 0 to 5v or 0.5 to 4.5v.

So if the sensor is putting out over 4v on its signal line with the Ign on, Engine off, it is very likely to be duff. But check that the ground is getting to the sensor, a broken ground connection will have a similar effect.

[connect-driver]

Thanks again for reply Peter, tested harness plug can't get an earth from either of the outer pins (or should I be testing sensor outer pins?)

Getting 5v from other harness outer pin. Tested voltage on suspected earth pin and showed 2.4/2.5v,  this should be 14v right?

If so guess earth lead wiring has a break in it?

[Tdci-Peter]

20 minutes ago, connect-driver said:

If so guess earth lead wiring has a break in it?

Yes, but Pin 2 is Ground.

I said a bit more in the other thread, not sure how it got split, but these things do 'appen!

[connect-driver]

23 minutes ago, Tdci-Peter said:

Yes, but Pin 2 is Ground

Ahhhh, centre pin is ground! So I've been grounding wrong pin. (That YouTube video gave impression centre pin was signal)

 

That's good because all wiring looks good with no breaks. Off to re-test

Testing the sensor with the plug connected, I assume one has to insert a piece of wire from harness end to obtain a reading?

[connect-driver]

Ok tested signal wire... 5v. Must have wrong pin surely . Tested other pin 5.07v so that's wayyy out of spec, one of those outer pins should be showing 0.5v if I'm correct?

 

[stef123]

Be careful when front probing connectors, I’ve seen cases before where the pins have been splayed and give a crap connection.  

[Tdci-Peter]

6 hours ago, connect-driver said:

Ok tested signal wire... 5v. Must have wrong pin surely . Tested other pin 5.07v so that's wayyy out of spec, one of those outer pins should be showing 0.5v if I'm correct?

View of the connector is below, looking at the harness part, I think.

If the 5v on the signal wire was with the transducer connected, and engine not running but ign on, then that would be about as good proof that the sensor is duff as you can get. It matches up with the 2000Bar reading, and the error code.

I would expect under 1v on the signal with engine not running. There may be some residual pressure in the line, but not much.

Worth double checking though, I have made dodgy measurements many times.

Back probing is done with a small pin inserted between the wire insulation and the connector seal. You can buy kits for it, and there are videos & web pages on it. But improvising with a sewing needle usually works, just a bit more fiddly.

If it is the sensor, they can be got fairly cheap for the 1.8TDCI, though I don't know what the quality is.

The wire colours in the picture may be wrong, they are from a Focus, but I am 90% sure the connector will be the same.

If you do change the sensor, take extreme care not to get any rust or other dirt into the common rail unit. Next stop is injectors, and they have tiny metering orifices in them, and delicate solid metal valve seats.

 

[connect-driver]

Thanks for confirming this Peter, it's entirely possible that the sensor croaked and I just happened to be low on fuel and thus couldn't restart after fueling and priming.

Yes 5v was measured back probing using some 1mm twin and earth copper with ignition on (engine off as it refuses to start 😑) 

Test will be after fitting new sensor. It comes with rail but I'm going to just fit sensor as it looks much easier than undoing all the plumbing.