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Mk3 Prefacelift Sync 2 8" touchscreen upgrade, How to guide with pics!!!


Luke_Anderson
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10 hours ago, MUMA said:

Do you know which? And Camera is not OEM btw

 

i fit OEM so i think I cant help

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17 minutes ago, mastachaz said:

i fit OEM so i think I cant help

Luke helped me and it is Working on non OEM 🙂 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Sync 2 setup question iPhone X S
I’ve been using my sync 2 with a iPhone 7 all working fine changes to iPhone Xs and I can’t get it receive text message notifications I’ve got it set up correctly I think
bluetooth /sync/show notifications/
I can send a text with the steering wheel voice button
Which I have only just found out about ,but it’s great
So anyone else have the same problems with a iPhone Xs
And sync 2 [emoji336][emoji1303]


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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  • 2 weeks later...

As last got it texting the head unit
A setting in notification not turned on correctly [emoji1360]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Ok as anyone thought about fitting the mk3.5 center  console when doing this upgrade ?

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On 5/8/2018 at 9:16 PM, Luke_Anderson said:

Sync 1 / 1.1 to Sync 2 Retrofit Guide
Disclamer:- This guide is intended as an advice document only. You attempt the actions in this guide at your own risk. I will not be held responsible if you brick any modules or break your car. This conversion involves rewiring your existing cars wiring and should only be attempted by a competent and experienced person. 

Right! Now that’s my ***** covered lets get started! 

I couldn’t have done this conversion if it weren’t for the information available out there, sadly not much of this is in English or applicable specifically to the focus however it gave me the understanding of what needed to be done to carry this out and I will be linking to some of this information throughout the guide. 
Parts – 
Sync 2 APIM 
Sync 2 ACM 
Sync 2 FCDIM
Sync 2 Fascia 
Sync 2 Media Hub + loom 
GPSM module - DE8T-19H463-DC
Media hub bezel - finis number - 5326708
Mini USB to Mini USB cable
Nav maps 
Pins - mouser - 1924955-4 
HSD Code E plug or Fakra Z ( if you have OEM reverse camera )
Forscan ( with extended license ) and FoCCCus software 

I started by completely stripping out the car, partly because I wanted to wet vac the seats and partly because of ease of access. You don’t have to remove the seats but I strongly recommend the center console, and all the fascia panels. 

The sync 2 fascia doesn’t fit straight away, some trimming is required around the bottom, start by cutting off the locating lugs and then trim little by little until it fits nicely against the a/c panel the panel is held down by the 2 center holes in the same way the original is. 

Once your happy the fascia fits nicely then remove the fascia and a/c panel to reveal the sync unit, this is held in place by 3 screws and can be disconnected and removed. 

The sync connector needs to be rerouted to the top of the dash, there is plenty of length there it just needs to pulled back to the main loom and then directed up to the top of the dash. 

At this point it’s a good idea to tape back and secure and cables that you will no longer need, in my case it was the blue, pink and black fakra connectors from the fcdim module. 

Now peel back the insulation on the sync connector and give yourself plenty of exposed cabling to do the swaps required, unlatch the 2 clips and slide off the connector cover. *top tip* label any wires that are going to be moved or removed in case you ever revert to sync 1 or get lost with where the wire came from. 

Once you have swapped the 2 MM-can wires the unit can then be plugged in and will power up for basic testing, note that once plugged in the unit takes a few minutes to power up, it also does this everytime it reboots, don't panic!

The pin swaps are highlighted in the pdf 

After you’ve completed the pin swaps its time to add in the additional wiring for the media hub, reverse camera adaptor (if fitted) ms-can and fcdim connector. I ordered the pins for the sync connector from mouser and although they work they are a little tight and did need to be manipulated in. if I were to do the job again I would buy a sync connector cut from a loom and remove the pigtails to solder onto *top tip* For the ms-can input you can tap into anything that runs on the ms-can network, I found the wires in the blue connector for the a/c panel. 

They will be the only external connections that you need to make. 

The gpsm is to be installed under the rear view mirror cover, for me the plug was already there so make sure to check this beforehand.

To install the media hub I used 2 good quality usb to usb mini leads connected with a usb coupler. The media hub is mounted in a bezel from a mk5 mondeo, the finis part number I have attached above. 

For the fascia panel the radio controls are connected by mm-can as opposed to lin like the original. You need to add one pin and cut and solder onto the existing pin in the plug for them to work.

For the acm connector you need to move 2 wires across from the main loom and into the accessory loom this is to transmit the tmc data to the screen for the naviagation traffic.

If you’ve got this far, well done! The hard work is over. Time to tidy up your cabling, and bolt everything into place. *top tip* install the apim and screen first before sliding the acm into place. 

Pop in your nav card ( f6 is the most recent ) and also worth updating the software to the latest version (3.10)

Put the rest of the car back together and grab yourself a brew, next up is coding! 

Using forscan plug yourself into the car, *top tip* if you’ve previously used forscan on the car delete any previous profile and scan it as a new car. If you don’t it wont pick up the newly installed gpsm module.
You will likely have a bunch of dtc codes, clear them and see what comes back. 

There will be 1 dtc that definitely wont clear and that is for the central locking led in the bcm. 

There will also be errors on the acm which currently cannot have its as built data modified, however this doesn’t seem to cause any problems. 

Programmming the APIM
Here comes the fun part. The apim will need to be coded to the spec of your car. The easiest way to do this is using the ford as built data. The way to do this is find a facelift focus with the same options as yours. For example mine is a titanium x, and the facelift titanium x has the same features as mine. 

To do this hop onto ebay or autotrader and find a facelift focus with the same features as yours, make a note of the registration and go to the ford etis website ( www.etis.ford.com )enter the reg and make a note of the vin number. Then you need to go to the motorcraft service website ( www.motorcraftservice.com ) click free resources and then quick guides. Towards the bottom of the list is an option for Module Build Data ( as – built ) hit this and enter the vin number you got from etis. This gives you the module as built data that you will need to programme the apim. 

Download the file and save it to your computer.

Open up forscan and click on the icon that looks like a computer chip. You will see an option that says apim ( as-built format ) run this and load the file from your download ( don’t forget to change the file type to .ab in the search bar ) click write all and follow the instructions on screen. Once done you will see sync reboot and if you have done everything correctly it should now be programmed to your cars features. 

At this point you still aren’t done, you will notice that the voice control still doesn’t work correctly. Now we need to change a few things in the bcm and ipc. 

Open up foCCCus and load up the central config for your car, save a backup before you change anything!!!
The lines you need to change are – 
123 – Audio Aux Input change the value to 01 (without)
125 – DAB Radio System change the value to 01 (without)
154 – Module USB change the value to 01 (without)
157 – Bluetooth Handsfree change the value to 01 (without)
172 – Front Display change the value to 09 (DM8 with nav)
214 – ICP change the value to 09

Write these changes to both the bcm and the ipc. 
This got everything working 95% percent for me. I had to make some further changes to enable optical display for the parking sensors and the active park assist. I did this by modifying the as built data of the apim further by using this guide. ( https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uDSQ1Z5a2Wt8-kjrSiVSlDFGFHnfeuhb3RTMVz95730/edit#gid=1479139836 )

Im expecting some questions and I will help the best I can as im sure there are bits I have missed!
 

Focus Sync Conversion table.pdf

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Hi Luke got a question for you, I’m just about to change my sync 1 for a sync 2. I’ve got the Sd reader and loom and put that in place only thing I’m not sure about is the two usb connectors one grey one black , ive connected the black to the original one where dose the grey one plug.

thanks nigel

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You only use one of them for this conversion, on the facelift it has an extra usb in the dash and that’s where it goes but as we don’t have that we leave it disconnected 

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Ok makes sense,is the black the main one and the grey a piggy back one, only I’ve tried the usb on the reader and it don’t work, but if I disconnect it from the reader and plug a cable straight into it, it works

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Have you done the power for the usb hub? It’s a powered unit so won’t work until it’s all been connected 

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On 5/8/2018 at 9:16 PM, Luke_Anderson said:

Sync 1 / 1.1 to Sync 2 Retrofit Guide
Disclamer:- This guide is intended as an advice document only. You attempt the actions in this guide at your own risk. I will not be held responsible if you brick any modules or break your car. This conversion involves rewiring your existing cars wiring and should only be attempted by a competent and experienced person. 

Right! Now that’s my ***** covered lets get started! 

I couldn’t have done this conversion if it weren’t for the information available out there, sadly not much of this is in English or applicable specifically to the focus however it gave me the understanding of what needed to be done to carry this out and I will be linking to some of this information throughout the guide. 
Parts – 
Sync 2 APIM 
Sync 2 ACM 
Sync 2 FCDIM
Sync 2 Fascia 
Sync 2 Media Hub + loom 
GPSM module - DE8T-19H463-DC
Media hub bezel - finis number - 5326708
Mini USB to Mini USB cable
Nav maps 
Pins - mouser - 1924955-4 
HSD Code E plug or Fakra Z ( if you have OEM reverse camera )
Forscan ( with extended license ) and FoCCCus software 

I started by completely stripping out the car, partly because I wanted to wet vac the seats and partly because of ease of access. You don’t have to remove the seats but I strongly recommend the center console, and all the fascia panels. 

The sync 2 fascia doesn’t fit straight away, some trimming is required around the bottom, start by cutting off the locating lugs and then trim little by little until it fits nicely against the a/c panel the panel is held down by the 2 center holes in the same way the original is. 

Once your happy the fascia fits nicely then remove the fascia and a/c panel to reveal the sync unit, this is held in place by 3 screws and can be disconnected and removed. 

The sync connector needs to be rerouted to the top of the dash, there is plenty of length there it just needs to pulled back to the main loom and then directed up to the top of the dash. 

At this point it’s a good idea to tape back and secure and cables that you will no longer need, in my case it was the blue, pink and black fakra connectors from the fcdim module. 

Now peel back the insulation on the sync connector and give yourself plenty of exposed cabling to do the swaps required, unlatch the 2 clips and slide off the connector cover. *top tip* label any wires that are going to be moved or removed in case you ever revert to sync 1 or get lost with where the wire came from. 

Once you have swapped the 2 MM-can wires the unit can then be plugged in and will power up for basic testing, note that once plugged in the unit takes a few minutes to power up, it also does this everytime it reboots, don't panic!

The pin swaps are highlighted in the pdf 

After you’ve completed the pin swaps its time to add in the additional wiring for the media hub, reverse camera adaptor (if fitted) ms-can and fcdim connector. I ordered the pins for the sync connector from mouser and although they work they are a little tight and did need to be manipulated in. if I were to do the job again I would buy a sync connector cut from a loom and remove the pigtails to solder onto *top tip* For the ms-can input you can tap into anything that runs on the ms-can network, I found the wires in the blue connector for the a/c panel. 

They will be the only external connections that you need to make. 

The gpsm is to be installed under the rear view mirror cover, for me the plug was already there so make sure to check this beforehand.

To install the media hub I used 2 good quality usb to usb mini leads connected with a usb coupler. The media hub is mounted in a bezel from a mk5 mondeo, the finis part number I have attached above. 

For the fascia panel the radio controls are connected by mm-can as opposed to lin like the original. You need to add one pin and cut and solder onto the existing pin in the plug for them to work.

For the acm connector you need to move 2 wires across from the main loom and into the accessory loom this is to transmit the tmc data to the screen for the naviagation traffic.

If you’ve got this far, well done! The hard work is over. Time to tidy up your cabling, and bolt everything into place. *top tip* install the apim and screen first before sliding the acm into place. 

Pop in your nav card ( f6 is the most recent ) and also worth updating the software to the latest version (3.10)

Put the rest of the car back together and grab yourself a brew, next up is coding! 

Using forscan plug yourself into the car, *top tip* if you’ve previously used forscan on the car delete any previous profile and scan it as a new car. If you don’t it wont pick up the newly installed gpsm module.
You will likely have a bunch of dtc codes, clear them and see what comes back. 

There will be 1 dtc that definitely wont clear and that is for the central locking led in the bcm. 

There will also be errors on the acm which currently cannot have its as built data modified, however this doesn’t seem to cause any problems. 

Programmming the APIM
Here comes the fun part. The apim will need to be coded to the spec of your car. The easiest way to do this is using the ford as built data. The way to do this is find a facelift focus with the same options as yours. For example mine is a titanium x, and the facelift titanium x has the same features as mine. 

To do this hop onto ebay or autotrader and find a facelift focus with the same features as yours, make a note of the registration and go to the ford etis website ( www.etis.ford.com )enter the reg and make a note of the vin number. Then you need to go to the motorcraft service website ( www.motorcraftservice.com ) click free resources and then quick guides. Towards the bottom of the list is an option for Module Build Data ( as – built ) hit this and enter the vin number you got from etis. This gives you the module as built data that you will need to programme the apim. 

Download the file and save it to your computer.

Open up forscan and click on the icon that looks like a computer chip. You will see an option that says apim ( as-built format ) run this and load the file from your download ( don’t forget to change the file type to .ab in the search bar ) click write all and follow the instructions on screen. Once done you will see sync reboot and if you have done everything correctly it should now be programmed to your cars features. 

At this point you still aren’t done, you will notice that the voice control still doesn’t work correctly. Now we need to change a few things in the bcm and ipc. 

Open up foCCCus and load up the central config for your car, save a backup before you change anything!!!
The lines you need to change are – 
123 – Audio Aux Input change the value to 01 (without)
125 – DAB Radio System change the value to 01 (without)
154 – Module USB change the value to 01 (without)
157 – Bluetooth Handsfree change the value to 01 (without)
172 – Front Display change the value to 09 (DM8 with nav)
214 – ICP change the value to 09

Write these changes to both the bcm and the ipc. 
This got everything working 95% percent for me. I had to make some further changes to enable optical display for the parking sensors and the active park assist. I did this by modifying the as built data of the apim further by using this guide. ( https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uDSQ1Z5a2Wt8-kjrSiVSlDFGFHnfeuhb3RTMVz95730/edit#gid=1479139836 )

Im expecting some questions and I will help the best I can as im sure there are bits I have missed!
 

Focus Sync Conversion table.pdf

IMG_9108.JPG

IMG_9109.JPG

IMG_9115.JPG

IMG_9121.JPG

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IMG_9123 (1).JPG

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Hi Luke, sorry for what might be silly questions, thanks for the note about the usb socket I realised after it’s power run, I’ve just looked under the mirror and I have a unit that ends in BB can I just replace this with GPSM module or will I loose something else.

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What does it look like? If it look like the one in the picture then you already have a gpsm module 

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Hi yep exactly like that just a different code on it.

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That’s fine then, it’s a gpsm module. When you scan with forscan it will pick it up on the ms-can side 

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On 10/22/2018 at 1:53 PM, Luke_Anderson said:

That’s fine then, it’s a gpsm module. When you scan with forscan it will pick it up on the ms-can side 

Hi Luke just about to start cutting some wires just wanted to double check this is plug to the SD reader, these are the media hub pins I’m reconnecting.

F0A4A8CB-7FDE-4B07-97A3-A191E6DB9E67.jpeg

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Hi can anyone help just wiring my sync 2 in done all the wires but can’t find the 2 wires that come from the gpsm

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The 2 gpsm wires don’t link directly to the unit, they are on the can network, you need to tap into the can somewhere, I used the blue connector behind the a/c panel 

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Hi Luke,

ive installed everything and all looks good apart from I don’t have sat nav just as the attached pic, any ideas

55CD58E3-D1FA-4FDA-9F35-60AA4D2D902B.jpeg

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Some help needed.

ive done the swap from sync 1 to 2 everything seems fine all works apart from the button controls for the radio the hazard button works but that’s it, I’m not sure whether I’ve not done something or it’s broke and also I’ve got an f7 Sd Carr from eBay but the sat nav don’t recognise it and won’t read it. And help greatly appreciated.

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On 10/28/2018 at 12:49 PM, nigel brown said:

Hi Luke,

ive installed everything and all looks good apart from I don’t have sat nav just as the attached pic, any ideas

55CD58E3-D1FA-4FDA-9F35-60AA4D2D902B.jpeg

Sorry to tell you mate but if you have the compass and it says information in the top corner then it means that it isn’t a sat nav unit 

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17 hours ago, nigel brown said:

Some help needed.

ive done the swap from sync 1 to 2 everything seems fine all works apart from the button controls for the radio the hazard button works but that’s it, I’m not sure whether I’ve not done something or it’s broke and also I’ve got an f7 Sd Carr from eBay but the sat nav don’t recognise it and won’t read it. And help greatly appreciated.

That will be issues with the wiring, make sure you’ve looked at the wiring diagram thoroughly, you need to add a wire to the button panel plug and cut one of the others then connect them to the mm-can lines. All that is detailed in the original post. 

As for the sd card that is down to the fact the unit is not a nav unit 

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Hi Luke yep I’ve done the pin 4 and pin 7, I’ll re check. As for the sat nav it’s now updated and unlocked.

85412CAA-7FC8-4132-BA07-828DB433084D.jpeg

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Hi Luke,

sorry for what seems silly questions but i've come this far it's not going to beat me.

just to recap the plug from the back of the original screen (sync 1)needs to be wired into pin 4 and a wire joined onto 7 of the new button panel.

as you can see from the pic i've updated the nav and unlocked it, but the SD Card does not even register, but SD reader works.

thanks

Nigel

 

 

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I only did it with ones that are already nav enabled so I really couldnt say, how have you checked the reader is working? As for the buttons I’d re check everything as that should be all you need to do to get them to work 

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i put a blank SD card in the reader and screen said SD1 inserted.

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And what happens when you put the nav card in? 

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