Mk3 Prefacelift Sync 2 8" touchscreen upgrade, How to guide with pics!!!

[Monks600]

That all looks to be okay, can you access the pam module as built? 

Sure, I’ll get it at some point tomorrow! Oh on a different note, if you’re not bothered about line in for the sync 2 media hub module, you can actually tap in to the rear lighter socket for pins 1 and 8 for power. Turns out the media hub has a converter for 12v to 5v and it works flawlessly. The only thing you have to run is the USB cable back to the apim. Tried using the old cable from the Sony sync setup but it wouldn’t recognise the hub what so ever. With the headphone jack on quite a few phones being removed this is perfect!


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[Doger]

@chris_wynne Have a look at this Pin!

[Monks600]

Sure, I’ll get it at some point tomorrow! Oh on a different note, if you’re not bothered about line in for the sync 2 media hub module, you can actually tap in to the rear lighter socket for pins 1 and 8 for power. Turns out the media hub has a converter for 12v to 5v and it works flawlessly. The only thing you have to run is the USB cable back to the apim. Tried using the old cable from the Sony sync setup but it wouldn’t recognise the hub what so ever. With the headphone jack on quite a few phones being removed this is perfect!


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Can’t see a Pam module listed at all which is strange! Checked my vin and rear parking sensors were definitely fitted from the factory!


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[Monks600]

So, at a loss on this! Can’t get the media hub to work what ever I try. I’ve used a multimeter and can see 5v coming from the apim to pin 1 fine and pin 8 on the apim is ground fine too. USB cable from the apim back to the media hub seems ok too. I clipped an adaptor on the mini usb end and plugged in my memory stick and sync 2 picking this up instantly. I’m starting to think there’s something up with this media hub, I literally cannot get it to do anything at all. Tried different usb cables to no avail. I think it’s dead. Is that possible? This is what I’m seeing in FORScan? Reset the apim and still the head unit cannot find the media hub. Maps card and a blank SD Card don’t work either. Is there anything that needs changing in FORScan to pick the media hub up or is it plug and play?

 

 

 

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[andspenka]

3 hours ago, Monks600 said:

So, at a loss on this! Can’t get the media hub to work what ever I try. I’ve used a multimeter and can see 5v coming from the apim to pin 1 fine and pin 8 on the apim is ground fine too. USB cable from the apim back to the media hub seems ok too. I clipped an adaptor on the mini usb end and plugged in my memory stick and sync 2 picking this up instantly. I’m starting to think there’s something up with this media hub, I literally cannot get it to do anything at all. Tried different usb cables to no avail. I think it’s dead. Is that possible? This is what I’m seeing in FORScan? Reset the apim and still the head unit cannot find the media hub. Maps card and a blank SD Card don’t work either. Is there anything that needs changing in FORScan to pick the media hub up or is it plug and play?

 

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I couldn't get mine to work either, the only way I got it to work was to make a new loom to run from the media hub wires direct to the APIM, I also had to re-pin the media hub because the wires weren't the same as the pdf from the first post on here. Mine works perfect now.

[Monks600]

See, I’ve checked the pins at the apim and the solder connections and everything seems fine. I’m really at a loss. I used a volt meter on the media hub end pins and they all showed as fine and connected with no breaks. I honestly can’t see it being the loom I made up. Any other ideas?

 

 

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[Luke_Anderson]

These have been known to be faulty, if you have a friend with one ask to try theirs 👍🏻

[Monks600]

These have been known to be faulty, if you have a friend with one ask to try theirs [emoji1303]

Ahhhh good! That’s re-assuring! I’ve checked all my pins and done voltmeter tests and through process of elimination everything points to the bleeding media hub!


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[Luke_Anderson]

Hopefully nothing more than that 👍🏻

[Monks600]

Hopefully nothing more than that [emoji1303]

Yeah, thanks again mate!


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[Doger]

Hi @Luke_Anderson.

As I’m going from Sync 1 with nav to Sync 3 with nav and I’m making up the amazon jumper cable to convert from Sync 1 to Sync 3 I’ve got a couple more points I

need clarifying if you could be so kind.

First off on your conversion table Pins 46 and 47 STEERING WHEEL CONTROL + and – I presume I just remove the connection to the Sync 1 end of the cable and

put FCDIM Pins 7 and 10 into the Sync 3 end of the cable.

Second Pins 51 and 52 DATA LINK + and - show nothing on Sync 1 end, so again FCDIM pins 6 and 12 go straight into the Sync 3 end of the cable.

Thanks again for your patients. Rog

[Luke_Anderson]

That is correct 👍🏻

[Monks600]

Hopefully nothing more than that [emoji1303]

Just popped in the new hub and worked first time! Just my luck hahah


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[Monks600]

Just a thought... is there anyway to get your speed on the ipc or even the different trips? I literally have the basic stuff like fuel until empty, mileage, instant fuel and mpg. Any ideas? :)


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[Luke_Anderson]

Possibly by upgrading the cluster, the facelift ones have it 👍🏻

[Monks600]

Possibly by upgrading the cluster, the facelift ones have it [emoji1303]

Good shout. Another question... sorry for all the questions lol regarding the central locking button, is it possible to fit this back in like the facelift door panels as this is on the drivers side? Or, is there an oem style button which I could mount somewhere and obviously wire to the front panel connector? I don’t fancy having them cheap looking buttons and I’d preferably like to style it similar to maybe the traction control button or maybe something on the front headunit button panel... any ideas at all?


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[Luke_Anderson]

I went for a completely flush hidden button, you’d never know it was there unless you know 👀

I guess you could use the facelift door card, not sure about the wiring though as it links into the windows switch panel 

[Monks600]

I went for a completely flush hidden button, you’d never know it was there unless you know [emoji102]
I guess you could use the facelift door card, not sure about the wiring though as it links into the windows switch panel 

Okay, cool! I was tempted to run two wires all the way across through the door loom to possibly just the insert with the door lock buttons but that seems a massive faff. Which button did you go for out of curiosity?


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[Luke_Anderson]

One of these, mounts in the trim panel on the underside of the stereo, can’t see it at all 

[BigTom1289]

If I can source the parts how do you fancy earning some pennies and giving me a hand installing lol, I’ll come to you 😉

[Luke_Anderson]

Sounds good to me 👍🏻

[BigTom1289]

Cheers dude, and if anyone has the parts they want to sell let me know 😅

[Doger]

Hi Guys.

Just a quick heads up for anybody that can’t find out how to enter a Reg # into the Ford Etis Site to obtain a VIN # so they can get hold of the As Built Data from www.motorcraftservice.com

1.      1.  Enter your own VIN # into Vehicle Lookup.

2.       2. Press SEARCH.

3.       3. Go to Vehicle Summary and at the bottom of the box click “here” and change the country to United Kingdom press UPDATE.

4.       4. Go to Vehicle Lookup again and enter the Reg # of the vehicle you wish to find the As Built Data for.

5.       5. Press SEARCH and you’ve done it.

[Doger]

@Luke_Anderson

Sync 1 > 3 Conversion.

I have just gone to move the 2 MM-CAN wires from FCDIM Connector Pins 4 and 5 > Pins 7 and 4 of the Push Button Panel, as you can see from my picture of the Push Button Panel Connector Pin # 4 is vacant and pin # 7 has a Yellow going to it!

Do I remove the yellow wire Pin # 7 from the connector and tape it up out of the way or do I need to splice into it?

Thanks Rog

[Luke_Anderson]

Either or, easier to splice 👍🏻