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Mk3 Prefacelift Sync 2 8" touchscreen upgrade, How to guide with pics!!!


Luke_Anderson
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Hi, I'd like to add my findings when sourcing parts for the sync 3 upgrade, I bought what I thought was a sync 3 APIM from a Focus, it turns out it's from a transit. No problem i'll just change the brackets. But then I offered it up to my fascia and:

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It's too small 😡. The screens on the Transits are 6.5" not 8". Back to trawling eBay unless anyone knows of someone trying the upgrade on a Transit???

Not having much luck so far, the first APIM I bought went missing in the post and the second one is too small. Third time lucky eh?

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22 hours ago, MDG950 said:

Hi, I'd like to add my findings when sourcing parts for the sync 3 upgrade, I bought what I thought was a sync 3 APIM from a Focus, it turns out it's from a transit. No problem i'll just change the brackets. But then I offered it up to my fascia and:

IMG_20200517_121502207.thumb.jpg.25642e41f75be4f1edf9464d7e1b68c2.jpg

It's too small 😡. The screens on the Transits are 6.5" not 8". Back to trawling ebay unless anyone knows of someone trying the upgrade on a Transit???

Not having much luck so far, the first APIM I bought went missing in the post and the second one is too small. Third time lucky eh?

I wonder if the module from the back of the display could be taken off and fitted onto a 8inch display.

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I guess if the screen resolutions are the same then it would work. It looks to have the same mounting points and electrical connector. Tricky part is finding an 8" screen by itself! 

IMG_20200516_190134681.thumb.jpg.c7d2bc2724ac33eb6594e06f84abb5c7.jpg

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I was wondering if this would be a cheaper way of upgrading a sync 2 unit. If, for instance, you could get hold a sync 3 with a broken screen.

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I don't believe you can use a sync 2 screen with a sync 3 apim, the electrical connection between the two is different.

Electrical connector on the sync 2

1911146634_Screenshot_20200520-2210452.thumb.png.4d7135d255d2a3aa76baec6dc3840191.png

Electrical connector on the sync 3

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Nice idea though, the sync 3 apim modules can be quite cheap on eBay. But it seems there are very few screens around.

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Oh well, that's that idea scuppered then. I'll just have to keep looking out for a cheap complete sync 3 unit on eBay then!

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Oh well, that's that idea scuppered then. I'll just have to keep looking out for a cheap complete sync 3 unit on eBay then!

I’m in the same boat, had sync 2 for a while now after coming from sync 1. Just fancy having a more fluent and quicker navigation and the option of Apple car play would be cool :) prices on eBay have shot up since late last year!!


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Did anyone keep hold of there Sony ACM by any chance, I sold mine as a bundle and noticed the sound quality from the sync 2 one dipped quite a bit. I want to put a Sony one back in... its been on my to do list since I upgraded to sync 2..

If not, what model numbers should I be looking out for on eBay? I’ve found a unit...but there wanting £80 for just the ACM... seems steep to me just for that.

Any help would be much appreciated :)

I believe you did this or something similar Phil?


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  • 1 month later...

After reading all 33 pages in really tempted to go through with this but probably too sync 2 as sync3 prices are sky high just now, just terrified I bugger it up and I see that harness on amazon is now unavailable. 

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Hi is there anyone in the midlands willing to fit a sync 3 into a focus titanium navigator 2014 Willing to pay going rate 

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Hi Luke do you have a PDF of the wiring loom for the Sync2 to alter the pins.

Regards. 

Peter.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi, did any one fit USA radio panel, where is hazard and door lock separate and has 2 connectors at the back? Can you help me with rewiring from the old one panel? Thank you very much!

7F6C9D0C-531A-4BD0-B08F-25ECAA71C9DF.jpeg

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Hi, did any one fit USA radio panel, where is hazard and door lock separate and has 2 connectors at the back? Can you help me with rewiring from the old one panel? Thank you very much!
7F6C9D0C-531A-4BD0-B08F-25ECAA71C9DF.thumb.jpeg.a7faeda9e39d5659d17b7a3a21ef6a8b.jpeg

What does the connector look like on the back? Might me worth looking at a wiring diagram for the USA Spec mk3


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Hi, it looks like this, it has 2 connectors.

98AB0F1C-1D2A-4ED7-B43A-4EF000FD08B6.jpeg

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  • 1 month later...
On 5/8/2018 at 9:16 PM, Luke_Anderson said:

Sync 1 / 1.1 to Sync 2 Retrofit Guide
Disclamer:- This guide is intended as an advice document only. You attempt the actions in this guide at your own risk. I will not be held responsible if you brick any modules or break your car. This conversion involves rewiring your existing cars wiring and should only be attempted by a competent and experienced person. 

Right! Now that’s my ***** covered lets get started! 

I couldn’t have done this conversion if it weren’t for the information available out there, sadly not much of this is in English or applicable specifically to the focus however it gave me the understanding of what needed to be done to carry this out and I will be linking to some of this information throughout the guide. 
Parts – 
Sync 2 APIM 
Sync 2 ACM 
Sync 2 FCDIM
Sync 2 Fascia 
Sync 2 Media Hub + loom 
GPSM module - DE8T-19H463-DC
Media hub bezel - finis number - 5326708
Mini USB to Mini USB cable
Nav maps 
Pins - mouser - 1924955-4 
HSD Code E plug or Fakra Z ( if you have OEM reverse camera )
Forscan ( with extended license ) and FoCCCus software 

I started by completely stripping out the car, partly because I wanted to wet vac the seats and partly because of ease of access. You don’t have to remove the seats but I strongly recommend the center console, and all the fascia panels. 

The sync 2 fascia doesn’t fit straight away, some trimming is required around the bottom, start by cutting off the locating lugs and then trim little by little until it fits nicely against the a/c panel the panel is held down by the 2 center holes in the same way the original is. 

Once your happy the fascia fits nicely then remove the fascia and a/c panel to reveal the sync unit, this is held in place by 3 screws and can be disconnected and removed. 

The sync connector needs to be rerouted to the top of the dash, there is plenty of length there it just needs to pulled back to the main loom and then directed up to the top of the dash. 

At this point it’s a good idea to tape back and secure and cables that you will no longer need, in my case it was the blue, pink and black fakra connectors from the fcdim module. 

Now peel back the insulation on the sync connector and give yourself plenty of exposed cabling to do the swaps required, unlatch the 2 clips and slide off the connector cover. *top tip* label any wires that are going to be moved or removed in case you ever revert to sync 1 or get lost with where the wire came from. 

Once you have swapped the 2 MM-can wires the unit can then be plugged in and will power up for basic testing, note that once plugged in the unit takes a few minutes to power up, it also does this everytime it reboots, don't panic!

The pin swaps are highlighted in the pdf 

After you’ve completed the pin swaps its time to add in the additional wiring for the media hub, reverse camera adaptor (if fitted) ms-can and fcdim connector. I ordered the pins for the sync connector from mouser and although they work they are a little tight and did need to be manipulated in. if I were to do the job again I would buy a sync connector cut from a loom and remove the pigtails to solder onto *top tip* For the ms-can input you can tap into anything that runs on the ms-can network, I found the wires in the blue connector for the a/c panel. 

They will be the only external connections that you need to make. 

The gpsm is to be installed under the rear view mirror cover, for me the plug was already there so make sure to check this beforehand.

To install the media hub I used 2 good quality usb to usb mini leads connected with a usb coupler. The media hub is mounted in a bezel from a mk5 mondeo, the finis part number I have attached above. 

For the fascia panel the radio controls are connected by mm-can as opposed to lin like the original. You need to add one pin and cut and solder onto the existing pin in the plug for them to work.

For the acm connector you need to move 2 wires across from the main loom and into the accessory loom this is to transmit the tmc data to the screen for the naviagation traffic.

If you’ve got this far, well done! The hard work is over. Time to tidy up your cabling, and bolt everything into place. *top tip* install the apim and screen first before sliding the acm into place. 

Pop in your nav card ( f6 is the most recent ) and also worth updating the software to the latest version (3.10)

Put the rest of the car back together and grab yourself a brew, next up is coding! 

Using forscan plug yourself into the car, *top tip* if you’ve previously used forscan on the car delete any previous profile and scan it as a new car. If you don’t it wont pick up the newly installed gpsm module.
You will likely have a bunch of dtc codes, clear them and see what comes back. 

There will be 1 dtc that definitely wont clear and that is for the central locking led in the bcm. 

There will also be errors on the acm which currently cannot have its as built data modified, however this doesn’t seem to cause any problems. 

Programmming the APIM
Here comes the fun part. The apim will need to be coded to the spec of your car. The easiest way to do this is using the ford as built data. The way to do this is find a facelift focus with the same options as yours. For example mine is a titanium x, and the facelift titanium x has the same features as mine. 

To do this hop onto ebay or autotrader and find a facelift focus with the same features as yours, make a note of the registration and go to the ford etis website ( www.etis.ford.com )enter the reg and make a note of the vin number. Then you need to go to the motorcraft service website ( www.motorcraftservice.com ) click free resources and then quick guides. Towards the bottom of the list is an option for Module Build Data ( as – built ) hit this and enter the vin number you got from etis. This gives you the module as built data that you will need to programme the apim. 

Download the file and save it to your computer.

Open up forscan and click on the icon that looks like a computer chip. You will see an option that says apim ( as-built format ) run this and load the file from your download ( don’t forget to change the file type to .ab in the search bar ) click write all and follow the instructions on screen. Once done you will see sync reboot and if you have done everything correctly it should now be programmed to your cars features. 

At this point you still aren’t done, you will notice that the voice control still doesn’t work correctly. Now we need to change a few things in the bcm and ipc. 

Open up foCCCus and load up the central config for your car, save a backup before you change anything!!!
The lines you need to change are – 
123 – Audio Aux Input change the value to 01 (without)
125 – DAB Radio System change the value to 01 (without)
154 – Module USB change the value to 01 (without)
157 – Bluetooth Handsfree change the value to 01 (without)
172 – Front Display change the value to 09 (DM8 with nav)
214 – ICP change the value to 09

Write these changes to both the bcm and the ipc. 
This got everything working 95% percent for me. I had to make some further changes to enable optical display for the parking sensors and the active park assist. I did this by modifying the as built data of the apim further by using this guide. ( https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uDSQ1Z5a2Wt8-kjrSiVSlDFGFHnfeuhb3RTMVz95730/edit#gid=1479139836 )

Im expecting some questions and I will help the best I can as im sure there are bits I have missed!
 

Focus Sync Conversion table.pdf

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hey luke how much would you charge to fit this for me ,me come to you or you fancy a day in blackpool just in the middle of buying a sync2 of a gentleman 

 

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6 hours ago, mullett said:

hey luke how much would you charge to fit this for me ,me come to you or you fancy a day in blackpool just in the middle of buying a sync2 of a gentleman 

 

Buy sync 3!

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 I wanna put a sync 3 radio in to my ford trainsit custom mk8 2019 and  it out of a fiesta mk8 I check it and all the wires are different help doing it can some one help me ??

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Luke,

Great work done on the conversion. I am just doing the same on my Kuga but have a query on the focus media hub.

There are no pin numbers shown on the one that I have and I am told that pin 1 is live from sync 1 pin 8 and earth from sync 1 pin 38.

Have I wired this correctly.

IMG_20200921_235136.jpg

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On 9/22/2020 at 8:13 AM, smartguy69 said:

@Luke_Anderson

 

Hi Luke,

Great work done on the conversion. I am just trying to do the same on my Kuga but have a query on the focus media hub and also on the radio control panel. 

There are no pin numbers shown on the media hub that I have and I know I need to wire pins 8 and 38 from sync 2 APIM to the positive and negative on the hub. I don't know which they are.

Have I wired this correctly. I have trawled the internet but all appear to be a 4 pin media hub.

 

 

On 9/22/2020 at 8:13 AM, smartguy69 said:

IMG_20200921_235136.jpg

My second question is what do I do with the FCIM, radio controls. The instructions are small screen pin 4 goes to pin 7 and small screen pin 5 goes to pin 4 on radio controls . I didn't have a wire in my existing radio plug on pin 4. I have read that none of Ford's sync 1 vehicles had a pin here and you are the only one to mention it. I used a pin from the small screen plug and connected it to pin 5 from the small screen. But what do I do with pin 7. Do I splice the wire from small screen pin 4 or do I cut the existing wire from the car off, tape it up and then connect my small screen pin 4 wire to the radio controls pigtail.

I am really stuck with this and it's doing my head in to a point where after spending hours of work I am thinking of not going doing the conversion at all and putting sync1 back in.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Really surprised of the lack of response on this forum. It would appear social distancing can be virtual as well. No bother as I got my answers elsewhere.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Many thanks to Luke for this thread, plus the various other threads and advice from JW, Phil, JPW and everyone else who has contributed to them. I managed to upgrade from what I believe is Sync 1 to Sync 2 in about 4 hours last Sunday. It would have taken far longer if you guys hadn't paved the way!

I'll not post pics, but I went from the basic entertainment system to sync 2, didn't have the Sony set up so the wiring was easier.

Things to note if you want to try this.

1. Get a spare loom if you can, all the plugs behind where the audio lives, have slightly different pins and sockets! You can force them in, but it's far easier to go to a scrapper and cut off all the plugs in that area!

2. It's far easier to splice the MS CAN +/- feeds from the passengers footwell rather than running wires up to the GPSM.

3. It took me 3 attempts to program the APIM with an as built it would accept, trawl eBay for a few different number plates just incase. Also, the motorcraft site would NOT allow me to enter a Reg Number when I used Google Chrome, worked fine when I switched to Safari (dirty Mac user!).

4. Read all these threads, literally all the gen in on here.

And Finally to answer your question about pins on the USB hub Smartguy69, as you look at that pic, 1 is top left and 8 is bottom right.

 

 

 

HUB.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/14/2020 at 7:28 PM, Swandog said:

 

And Finally to answer your question about pins on the USB hub Smartguy69, as you look at that pic, 1 is top left and 8 is bottom right.

 

Many thanks Swandog. Trying to do the conversion on a Kuga made me wish I had bought a Focus lol. As you can tell from my last post I was getting a little frustrated. I even sent Luke a PM but then he could have moved on by now. The write up he did was very informative but like with all write ups there is always something missing that could be key to someone else like me.

I had a query on the connection of what to do with the wires that come from 4 and 5 of the small screen display going to 7 and 4 for the radio panel. I didn't have a pin 4 connection but saw in Luke's post you have to put a pin in there which I did. But that left a query for pin 7 whether to splice onto it or cut the cars wiring and isolate it. I think Luke did cover this so I cut mine and isolated it but that gives a DTC for the FCIM. 

I had two media hubs. One is like yours and the other is the Kuga/Edge type with 2 x usd, 1 aux and SD slot. I had decided to use the 8 pin focus type but wasn't sure which was live and earth. I had guessed it right but always good for confirmation but then someone was selling the 4 pin type which Luke used on his and I bought that and then a sync 2 to sync 3 conversion lead from china which fits it as its same as sync 3. 

I had all sorts of issues with mine and on the Kuga you have to cut part of the existing dash away so once you have done that there is no way back to sync 1. I had decided to plug everything in first and get it working first so my car has been looking like the Delorean from Back to the Future for a while. I did decide at one point to pack it in and I did put sync 1 back in but I don't like things like this beating me so had another go.

Issues I had were

1. no bluetooth hands free calling. 2. No Park pilot  3. USB powered up but wouldn't read usb or sd card. This is both before and after loading an as built from a later model. It made no difference. I am not really sure what difference loading a new as built for the apim makes. My sync 2 screen came from a kuga so if by chance I had picked the as built for the donor car it would be loading the same information and settings onto it that were still there, unless by re-flashing the apim changes the central configuration. I need to re-flash the apim though as I seem to have lost some of the climate settings, i.e. the on screen temperature and the small orange power lights do not illuminate. This maybe quicker than trying all the different codes in the sheets from Forscan.

I have sorted the bluetooth issue and with using my original sync 1 CD player so not sure why on most of the UK sites it says to change it. On the USA sites not everyone has so thought I would try and get mine to work. One digit change in the ACM kicked the bluetooth hands free into life but then I lost DAB. I have got this back now and also sorted getting the park pilot on screen.

I am unable to access Focccus. The program loads but clicking on read central config just give me a "Yellow service Now" on screen which is a bit scary. There is no option to select Kuga in the drop down and clicking Focus or C-Max doesn't work. It says ECU security error. I know I can get the desired settings through Forscan but it would be so much easier if I could do it with Foccus but for some reason my car doesn't like it. Trying to search which one of their programs to download didn't get any positive results.

I just need to get the climate sorted on the 8" display and for the APIM to read the usb hub and I am sorted. Running Foccus stores quite a few DTC's but they do disappear.

I am a member of Kuga owners and a couple of members have done the conversion and both had similar problems to me. Another though bought a Kuga sync 2 screen, a sync 2 FCIM and a sync 3 CD player. It all plugged and played for him with no programming to do. Only difference between his and mine is the FCIM as he's used a sync 2 one and myself and the others have a sync 3 type. I wouldn't have thought that would make any difference but who knows.

 

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Hello mate, sounds like you've been on a roller coaster ride!

I too kept my original Sync 1 CD player, kind of by accident. For starters, I bought a sync 2 set up from a Kuga, turns out all the brackets etc are wrong for a focus! DOH! So, further digging took me to an american youtuber, who goes to sync 3 from sync 1, and doesn't change it, score!

Regarding your issues, the USB hub thing, they appear to be fragile, that could be the source of your issues. I spent ages trying to work out the pin locations before I ripped the car apart, if you or the previous owner plugged it up wrong before, it could be toast. If you were closer, I'd lend you mine to try. You are in god's country though, and I'm in Norfolk.... You have got the USB going into the RH socket on the back of the hub yes?

Likewise, the Focccccus/Forscan issue, I'd try my set up. You've obviously managed coding before, so I wonder if the 2 month extended license has expired for Forscan?

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On 10/26/2020 at 9:14 PM, Swandog said:

 

Haha, definitely a tall roller coaster at times.

Good news as I have it working 100%.

I used another as built which sorted the climate screen but it lost me park pilot. The architecture was wrong for my car so changed to this 7D0-02-02 ####   2###, the previous number was 0 which I changed to 2. This brought the park pilot on screen and was the only forscan change I needed to make.

The problem I was having with Focccus was like an idiot I was running the programme from the zipped download folder and not from the extracted folder...DOH. I made the changes and this brought the media hub online and then I lost bluetooth!! I only changed my settings in BCM and not IPC as well. I hadn't read doing that anywhere else.

I installed navigation as Bannko's instructions and installed the navi patch which unlocked navigation but said I had an SD card error. We had someone on the Kuga forum who had this issue and remember reading about it ages ago so went hunting on Google and managed to find the link for 3.08 and 3.10 navigation update on ZDA which brought navigation online.

By coincidence the next day I thought I would try my phone to pair as although I was getting pair code on my  phone it wasn't showing any code on sync 2. It now paired ok.

Not sure if there is a small issue on bluetooth with initial pairing but once paired it's ok. 

Now I have the actual fun part of cutting some of the existing dash away and finishing it off. That should be a walk in the park compared to what I have had to do.

Looking back none of this is difficult but it's just trying to understand what needs to be changed to make something work without stopping something else from working. It would appear that although there are many similarities across the ford range, there are also some differences and also different settings that still make everything work.

The review done by Luke is one of the best I have seen and featured some key points which helped. I will be writing my own review at some point and hopefully will be able to help anyone else who tries to do this upgrade on the Kuga.

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  • 2 weeks later...

just been doing the install to sync 2, with the help of using the naviupgrade harness, a couple of issues i am having is the gpsm module i think the one i got is faulty, as not showing gps location in the apim and a fault code of lost communication with bcm, i already had the gpsm wiring loom above the mirror, and it can be found with forscan, also i have the oem back up camera, but not sure on how to wire this with hsd code e connector, the harness naviupgrade harness comes with a Phono conector which is wired to pin 14 and 15, any more help would be appreciated

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