PATS error code 16 - 56 Reg Mk2 Focus

[LTIronWolf]

On 6/1/2018 at 3:40 PM, Tdci-Peter said:

Is there something which is draining current from a battery, and pulling down the system voltage below 12v while being jumped? If you do fit a new battery this is the very first thing to check, or that one will get flattened too.

If I’m not mistaken, it’s not a case of parasitic draw - I’ve never had an issue with this. It’s most likely due to the carage sitting in a Garage for 6 months not being charged, which caused the battery to deplete and die. Because of this, I have to jump the car each time as the battery won’t hold its own after I remove the jumper cables.

[Tdci-Peter]

12 hours ago, LTIronWolf said:

Would the codes be similar to DTCs which you read from FORScan, or are they proprietary Ford codes?

The codes are actually standard DTC codes, but do not look like it because they are displayed simply as stored inside the modules. This storage method is actually part of the international OBD standard. All OBD2 readers and other devices convert these stored binary values to the usual DTC format, but the cluster does not bother to do this, this test mode was probably a simple debug facility for programmers and car system designers. I have shown how to convert the codes here:

I do not think the mileage change will upset the car. If the mileage is stored in the PCM as well as the cluster, you could try adjusting it up a couple of miles, hopefully this would set both, as changing a PCM should be procedure that is within Forscan's capabilities.

It should be possible to add keys to the list stored in the cluster, without deleting the existing keys. I doubt very much if it is possible to read out and save the full cluster state including PATS key codes, as this is a bit of an obvious security risk that even Ford programmers would consider.

About the current drain, what I was thinking is that whatever event caused the cluster to die could have damaged another bit of electronics in the car, and made it draw current continuously. It is quite possible that if the battery was getting a bit old, 6 months with no charging could have flattened it and damaged it to the point where it no longer works at all, but I would check for current drain after fitting a new one just in case.

[LTIronWolf]

@Tdci-Peter @JW1982 I'm back a little earlier than expected, so it's back to work on the Focus.

I've managed to get the battery replaced to a fully-functioning one, and there's now power to the system. The strange thing is the car is still complaining about error code 1:6 and the PCM doesn't seen to have "woken up" - the current configuration is the original PCM and the replacement dash, with the replacement/new transponder with the original blade. After changing the battery and entering the radio anti-theft code, I tried to connect using FORScan, and still no luck connecting to the PCM. Any ideas?

I've done the secret test on the dash, and this is the data I got from it - some of the codes I decoded after a Google search, but I wasn't able to find the other ones. 

• ROM level - 0541
• NVM Target ROM - 0541
• NVM EEPROM LVL - 0001
• Manufacture start - 66
• Manufacture hours - 6D71
• DTC #01 - D900 
• DTC #02 - E200 [invalid data for odometer (Invalid CAN message)]
• DTC #03 - E197 [invalid data for vehicle speed (Invalid CAN message)]
• DTC #04 - E510 
• DTC #05 - A103
• DTC #06 - 9318 [battery voltage low (less than 10v)]
• DTC #07 - 9681
• DTC #08 - 8286
• Speedo gauge - 0057
• Tacho gauge - 0058
• Fuel A/D Input - 95-98 (fluctuating between 95, 96, 97, 98)
• Fuel gauge - 01F2
• Temp gauge - 00BD
• battery - 12.4
• PATS key flags - 5C (using new key/transponder)
• A/D Fuel input 00 - FC-FE (fluctuating between FC, FD, FE)
• A/D Input 01 - FF
• A/D Input 02 - 95-96 (fluctuating between 95 and 96)
• A/D Input 03 - 14
• A/D Input 04 - 00
• A/D Input 05 - 00
• Port A - 00
• Port B - 3D
• PORT E - 3A-5A (fluctuating  between 3A and 5A)
• Port H - 00
• Port J - 00
• Port K - 01
• Port L - 00
• Port M - 04-14 (fluctuating between 04 and 14)
• Port P - 00
• Port S - 71
• Port T - 86-88 (fluctuating between 86, 87, 88)
• Port U - 00
• Port V - 20-60 (fluctuating between 20 and 60)
• Port W - 00-10 (fluctuating between 00 and 10)
• Personality 01 - 57
• Personality 02 - 57
• Personality 03 - 57
• Personality 04 - 57

There were other entries, but had ---- as a result or had no meaningful data, so I didn't record it. Does this tell you anything useful at all?

[Tdci-Peter]

7 hours ago, LTIronWolf said:

I've done the secret test on the dash, and this is the data I got from it

DTC #05 - A103 = B2103   Transceiver internal antenna damaged. Replace transceiver.

DTC #07 - 9681 = B1681   Transceiver signal not detected.

These may suggest a problem with the little transceiver unit that is round the ignition key barrel. This is connected directly to the Cluster, so does not depend on the CAN bus for the cluster to be able to test it.

However there are two reasons why this could be a red herring: It is not a type of fault that should prevent an ELM from connecting to the PCM via the CAN bus. Or it may have happened during one of the changes of parts, and be an old code now. With no way t delete codes (that I know of without a diagnostic system running), it is impossible to tell how recent the codes are.

It is looking like a PCM fault. Have you double checked the PCM fuses, esp the 3A, F30, and the 20A, F9?

Also you could re-try the other PCM. And also listen to or test relay R6, the PCM relay, to see if it is operating.

[C max Craig]

I

14 hours ago, LTIronWolf said:

@Tdci-Peter @JW1982 I'm back a little earlier than expected, so it's back to work on the Focus.

I've managed to get the battery replaced to a fully-functioning one, and there's now power to the system. The strange thing is the car is still complaining about error code 1:6 and the PCM doesn't seen to have "woken up" - the current configuration is the original PCM and the replacement dash, with the replacement/new transponder with the original blade. After changing the battery and entering the radio anti-theft code, I tried to connect using FORScan, and still no luck connecting to the PCM. Any ideas?

I've done the secret test on the dash, and this is the data I got from it - some of the codes I decoded after a Google search, but I wasn't able to find the other ones. 

• ROM level - 0541
• NVM Target ROM - 0541
• NVM EEPROM LVL - 0001
• Manufacture start - 66
• Manufacture hours - 6D71
• DTC #01 - D900 
• DTC #02 - E200 [invalid data for odometer (Invalid CAN message)]
• DTC #03 - E197 [invalid data for vehicle speed (Invalid CAN message)]
• DTC #04 - E510 
• DTC #05 - A103
• DTC #06 - 9318 [battery voltage low (less than 10v)]
• DTC #07 - 9681
• DTC #08 - 8286
• Speedo gauge - 0057
• Tacho gauge - 0058
• Fuel A/D Input - 95-98 (fluctuating between 95, 96, 97, 98)
• Fuel gauge - 01F2
• Temp gauge - 00BD
• Battery - 12.4
• PATS key flags - 5C (using new key/transponder)
• A/D Fuel input 00 - FC-FE (fluctuating between FC, FD, FE)
• A/D Input 01 - FF
• A/D Input 02 - 95-96 (fluctuating between 95 and 96)
• A/D Input 03 - 14
• A/D Input 04 - 00
• A/D Input 05 - 00
• Port A - 00
• Port B - 3D
• PORT E - 3A-5A (fluctuating  between 3A and 5A)
• Port H - 00
• Port J - 00
• Port K - 01
• Port L - 00
• Port M - 04-14 (fluctuating between 04 and 14)
• Port P - 00
• Port S - 71
• Port T - 86-88 (fluctuating between 86, 87, 88)
• Port U - 00
• Port V - 20-60 (fluctuating between 20 and 60)
• Port W - 00-10 (fluctuating between 00 and 10)
• Personality 01 - 57
• Personality 02 - 57
• Personality 03 - 57
• Personality 04 - 57

There were other entries, but had ---- as a result or had no meaningful data, so I didn't record it. Does this tell you anything useful at all?

 

[C max Craig]

Hi, I've been reading through your post with interest as I have a very similar issue with a 2010 cmax 1.6 tdci. I bought it with crash damage to the n/s front ( ecu plastic housing box was smashed but only small marks on the ecu itself) 

battery dead flat when I got the car. Been standing for 2 years

Message of Transmission malfunction on display. 

Immobiliser flasing code 16. 

Obd2 will not communicate with car. 

Done all earth and fuse checks and had cluster apart to inspect solder joints and condition. All ok 

I'm thinking to send ecu away for testing to ecu doctor. 

Could be the culprit but I'll let you known the outcome. 

Craig

[LTIronWolf]

11 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

DTC #05 - A103 = B2103   Transceiver internal antenna damaged. Replace transceiver.

DTC #07 - 9681 = B1681   Transceiver signal not detected.

These may suggest a problem with the little transceiver unit that is round the ignition key barrel. This is connected directly to the Cluster, so does not depend on the CAN bus for the cluster to be able to test it.

I swapped in the transceiver that came with the IC and the PCM thinking it was a coded part - I could try swapping in the original transceiver if needed after I've swapped to the new PCM, but I'll see if PATS throws up a different code other than 1:6.

11 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

It is looking like a PCM fault. Have you double checked the PCM fuses, esp the 3A, F30, and the 20A, F9?

Also you could re-try the other PCM. And also listen to or test relay R6, the PCM relay, to see if it is operating.

I'll try swapping in the replacement PCM and then seeing if it throws up 1:6. I've looked up every fuse that could possibly be related and all of them seem to be intact. Then again, I was simply checking to see if there was any physical breakage inside the fuse itself. If it doesn't work after the PCM swap, I'll order and replace all the fuses just to rule them out.

What sound should I be hearing from R6 to know if it's working?

5 hours ago, C max Craig said:

Done all earth and fuse checks and had cluster apart to inspect solder joints and condition. All ok 

I'm thinking to send ecu away for testing to ecu doctor. 

Could be the culprit but I'll let you known the outcome. 

Craig

Thanks for the post, Craig - I'm curious to see how it will turn out for your PCM.

What tests did you do for earthing and fuses? I'm wondering if there's anything I've missed other than the fuses in the engine bay and the resistance test on the OBDII port.

[LTIronWolf]

So I've swapped in the new PCM, checked fuses 9, 28, (missing 30), 32, 34, 35, 36 - there don't seem to be any physical signs of damage and the fuses look intact. I didn't have Relay 6, but \I checked Relay 14 and that seems to be fine - no rattling inside when shook.

The IC still displays 1:6 and displays engine systems fault, but what's interesting is I can now hear my car priming and a clicking noise coming from the passenger's side (auxiliary fusebox?) every single time I turn the key to position, even though still refuses to crank. It seems strange that despite the new PCM, the CAN bus still can't link but the car is now priming, at least.

[C max Craig]

Just a good clean up on earth bolts and connections to them and  checking either side of each  fuse with a test light( obviously wth ignition on) 

nothing technical just basic check to rule it out. I must try the resistance tests too. 

[LTIronWolf]

@Tdci-Peter @JW1982 Any ideas?

[Tdci-Peter]

On 7/6/2018 at 2:50 PM, LTIronWolf said:

checked fuses 9, 28, (missing 30),

Fuse 30 missing is odd. Across all the Mk2/2a engine variant drawings, this is a 3A fuse for a Keep Alive supply to the PCM. There are a few reports on the net about PCM problems if this is blown.

If the contact springs are present in the engine bay fusebox, I think I would try fitting a 3A fuse in there. There is not a lot to lose,  Maybe some PCM variants do not need a keep alive supply, but most do. All I can think of at the moment!

[LTIronWolf]

11 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

Fuse 30 missing is odd. Across all the Mk2/2a engine variant drawings, this is a 3A fuse for a Keep Alive supply to the PCM. There are a few reports on the net about PCM problems if this is blown.

If the contact springs are present in the engine bay fusebox, I think I would try fitting a 3A fuse in there. There is not a lot to lose,  Maybe some PCM variants do not need a keep alive supply, but most do. All I can think of at the moment!

The thing I find odd is that the car was missing the fuse before the entire issue began back in December. I’ll see if there’s a slot for a fuse to be fitted, but outside of that I don’t know.

Thanks for all your help so far, Peter - you’ve been invaluable and delayed my car from being scrapped!

[LTIronWolf]

@Tdci-Peter I don’t know what black magic has happened, but my car is now at least cranking, but it won’t turn over. The 1:6 code has disappeared, and the cluster displays “speed limited mode” and “engine systems fault” - maybe it’s in limp home mode? The car is currently using both the replacement PCM, key and cluster.

[LTIronWolf]

Spoke too soon - its gone back to its 1:6 error and won't crank anymore. The car's been sitting outside in direct sunlight during 30C weather, and it's very hot on the surface, inside, and in the engine bay. Maybe heat has a role to play in it? I want to say it's warmed up a connection somewhere and somehow re-flowed it.

[LTIronWolf]

@Tdci-Peter I'm now back to my replacement PCM for good - I swapped in the original to see if I could retain the information on it, but after swapping it in the car went back to 1:6 so I think the original PCM is dead and I'll have to make do with the new one.

On the plus side, I can now connect using FORScan and I can pull all of the DTC codes from the PCM - should I clear all of them to see which codes stick around? I still have the issue where the car cranks but refuses to turn over. The vehicle is currently using the replacement PCM, replacement cluster and replacement key - should I still re-program everything through PATS? In light of PATS issues, any ideas on how to solve the cranking issue?

List of codes read from FORScan:

• PCM - P0050-F4
• PCM - P0102-F2
• PCM - P0123-E1
• PCM - P0222-E2
• PCM - P0500-E1
• PCM - P0010-E4
• PCM - P0013-E4
• PCM - U0001-E1
• PCM - P2176-E1
• PCM - P2300-E3
• PCM - P1000-70
• OBDII - P0050-P
• OBDII - P0102-P
• OBDII - P0123-P
• OBDII - P0222-P
• OBDII - P0500-P
• ABS - U2012-A0
• ABS - U1900-A0
• IC - U1900-20
• IC - B1600-20
• IC - U2510-20
• RCM - B1318-20
• ACM - B1342-40
• ACM - U0155-40
• GEM - P0071-0F

[Tdci-Peter]

8 hours ago, LTIronWolf said:

Spoke too soon - its gone back to its 1:6 error and won't crank anymore.

 

1 hour ago, LTIronWolf said:

On the plus side, I can now connect using FORScan and I can pull all of the DTC codes from the PCM - should I clear all of them to see which codes stick around?

Being able to connect to a live PCM is a huge step forward compared to nothing! Save a log of all the codes, though I see from above you have done that, and definitely clear the DTCs. Seeing what comes back will separate real problems from ghosts caused by other events.

The PCM lists problems with almost all of the major engine systems, some of these may be just that it needs to learn the new sensor calibration values. No PATS problems.

The IC lists 2 PATS related problems, these may be old. See if they return.

I am ignoring ACM & ABS DTCs at the moment, as not likely to be relevant to starting.

[LTIronWolf]

13 minutes ago, Tdci-Peter said:

 

Being able to connect to a live PCM is a huge step forward compared to nothing! Save a log of all the codes, though I see from above you have done that, and definitely clear the DTCs. Seeing what comes back will separate real problems from ghosts caused by other events.

The PCM lists problems with almost all of the major engine systems, some of these may be just that it needs to learn the new sensor calibration values. No PATS problems.

The IC lists 2 PATS related problems, these may be old. See if they return.

I am ignoring ACM & ABS DTCs at the moment, as not likely to be relevant to starting.

The car is past its 1:6 issue and can now crank again. I think it was a case of the old PCM being dead as well.

I cleared all the previous codes and this is what it came back with (see attached picture). I get the feeling most of these will be solved by programming the PCM with FORScan and initializing it - I’m currently waiting to get an extended license to do it.

Seems like all the codes came back, in addition to 2 new codes for the IC - U2197-20 and U2200-20. Hopefully these will clear up with the rest of the codes.

I noticed one DTC that's related to PATS: B1600-20, which is being created by the IC. This seems to indicate the transponder is not getting a signal from the key. This seems odd - surely the car wouldn't be able to crank if it wasn't receiving a signal from the key? I can try swapping in the original transponder that was in the car if this carries on to be an issue.

Is my next step to initialize the PCM and IC using FORScan?

 

[Tdci-Peter]

12 minutes ago, LTIronWolf said:

2 new codes for the IC - U2197-20 and U2200-20.

U2197 makes me wonder if the car the PCM came from did not have ABS. From the Forscan results, yours does have this.

U2200 may be a mismatch between the IC mileage and PCM mileage, though as both are the replacements, it may be some other problem.

If the car is cranking, and the PATS led has stopped its manic flashing, then PATS should not be the cause, it usually disables cranking as well as all other engine systems like fuel pump & injectors. But I am not sure what you mean by " the car cranks but refuses to turn over ". I guess it is that the starter turns the engine, but it will not fire up.

The confusing bit is the IC is still indicating PATS problems (B1600, U2510). Try clearing DTCs with one of the IC codes showing as the selected DTC. I think Forscan only clears 1 module at a time.

I think I would reset the PCM first, to see if I could get rid of some of the engine sensor errors like MAF & Throttle, before looking at the IC.

[LTIronWolf]

1 minute ago, Tdci-Peter said:

U2197 makes me wonder if the car the PCM came from did not have ABS. From the Forscan results, yours does have this.

U2200 may be a mismatch between the IC mileage and PCM mileage, though as both are the replacements, it may be some other problem.

The potential mileage mismatch seems odd - the PCM and IC were pulled from the same car. So unless the previous car's owner also swapped the cluster like I did, there doesn't seem to be an explanation for it.

3 minutes ago, Tdci-Peter said:

If the car is cranking, and the PATS led has stopped its manic flashing, then PATS should not be the cause, it usually disables cranking as well as all other engine systems like fuel pump & injectors.

It has stopped its manic flashing as you put it😂 but what's strange is that after I attempt to crank the car and let go back into position II on the ignition barrel, the barrel locks and refuses to let me turn the key again - just like when I tried to turn the key with error 1:6.

4 minutes ago, Tdci-Peter said:

But I am not sure what you mean by " the car cranks but refuses to turn over ". I guess it is that the starter turns the engine, but it will not fire up.

My bad, that's what I meant to say - the car cranks, but it won't fire up under its own power and have a steady idle. It just sounds like you're trying to start a car when you have no Petrol (even though I have 1/4 of a tank left).

5 minutes ago, Tdci-Peter said:

The confusing bit is the IC is still indicating PATS problems (B1600, U2510). Try clearing DTCs with one of the IC codes showing as the selected DTC. I think Forscan only clears 1 module at a time.

I'll give it a try tomorrow, see if I have any luck with the DTC codes.

6 minutes ago, Tdci-Peter said:

I think I would reset the PCM first, to see if I could get rid of some of the engine sensor errors like MAF & Throttle, before looking at the IC.

How do I go about resetting the PCM? Do I do it with the PATS features in FORScan?

[Tdci-Peter]

6 minutes ago, LTIronWolf said:

How do I go about resetting the PCM?

I have not tried it, to be honest. But there should be a "reset all adaptations" procedure in the list of service procedures for the PCM. That is what I would try.

[mjt]

11 hours ago, LTIronWolf said:

after I attempt to crank the car and let go back into position II on the ignition barrel, the barrel locks and refuses to let me turn the key again

I think this is normal behaviour and is probably included to prevent you trying to engage the starter whilst the engine is running. You just have to turn the key to the 'Off' position to reset the interlock.

[Botus]

you didn't say if you put fuse 30 in - but after a suggestion to do so you started to make progress.

did the car run well before any of the changes.... I was just wondering if that fuse is missing did you swap out the GEM at all (BCM in other makes) - I did and never had a fuel pump fuse so it wouldn't run.

and last two penny worth, although allegedly cluster and pcm where from same car, with mileage difference and that fact some git knobbled some of the warning lights, a full coding session to programme PATS (once you have license) might be the next place to start

….oh and why did the original PCM die ?

 

[Botus]

at risk of being an idiot....

you have the original ignition barrel?   

which takes the original key (and its transponder) and you are effectively trying to start a different car (cluster & PCM) in which case it will be immobilised?

OK IDIOT..... so long as you really have a transponder to go with PCM and cluster and you are using it, i'll get my coat....

although...… post above u said

 the current configuration is the original PCM and the replacement dash, with the replacement/new transponder with the original blade

that won't work

 

and way back you said

was lacking a cluster as the original cluster completely died. I had no idea it was a case of just replacing a cluster and being able to re-program it,

so unless you have reflowed and tested original cluster you may as yet never been in a situation where the can can start with a definitely compatible ECU ….

 

I think you need to go one step at a time and double check the set up you have is right.  with the concern about ABS and the ECU the engine risk with a different ECU, isn't best situation to go back to Std (if you have) re flow original cluster …. or try with only the later "working" cluster and reprogram just that for the immobiliser? (remembering to go BACK to the original key transponder)

[LTIronWolf]

7 hours ago, Botus said:

you didn't say if you put fuse 30 in - but after a suggestion to do so you started to make progress.

I misread the fuse diagram - I do indeed have a fuse 30 that is intact, so that shouldn't be an issue.

7 hours ago, Botus said:

did the car run well before any of the changes.... I was just wondering if that fuse is missing did you swap out the GEM at all (BCM in other makes) - I did and never had a fuel pump fuse so it wouldn't run.

Before the car broke in the first place which started this whole affair, it ran fine - no mechanical or electrical issues of any kind.

7 hours ago, Botus said:

and last two penny worth, although allegedly cluster and pcm where from same car, with mileage difference and that fact some git knobbled some of the warning lights, a full coding session to programme PATS (once you have license) might be the next place to start

….oh and why did the original PCM die ?

 

I'll try to avoid PATS Programming if I can - the 1:6 error is temperamental enough, I don't want to poke the hornet's nest that is PATS if I can avoid it. As for the PCM, I can't confirm 100% that it's dead, but that's my suspicion - it won't respond to OBDII connections, and when it's plugged into the car it throws up 1:6 errors as opposed to PATS mismatch errors. However, once I swap in the replacement PCM everything is fine from a PATS perspective - leads me to think maybe the PCM died from a voltage spike, just like the original cluster.

9 hours ago, Botus said:

at risk of being an idiot....

you have the original ignition barrel?   

I do, yes. I've retained the blade that was on the original key and I've placed it onto the replacement fob. I've ordered a blank which I'm going to get cut and then place it on my original fob so I have two keys to work with if I need to do PATS programming. I have the blade that came with the replacement fob, which obviously does not fit into my ignition barrel or any other locks.

9 hours ago, Botus said:

which takes the original key (and its transponder) and you are effectively trying to start a different car (cluster & PCM) in which case it will be immobilised?

OK IDIOT..... so long as you really have a transponder to go with PCM and cluster and you are using it, i'll get my coat....

What you're saying is true - if I was using my original key with all the replacement parts, it wouldn't work as it would be a mismatch. However at the moment I'm using the replacement key.

9 hours ago, Botus said:

although...… post above u said

 the current configuration is the original PCM and the replacement dash, with the replacement/new transponder with the original blade

that won't work

Maybe I didn't write very clearly earlier - after all, I've swapped around a few times. So far, the configuration is as such:

• PCM - Replacement from Donor
• Cluster - Replacement from Donor
• Transponder/key - Replacement from Donor + original blade (so it works with the locks)

If it was that configuration which you wrote, you're right - it wouldn't work. If the original PCM would function, the car should at least throw up a PATS mismatch code (1:5 if I'm not mistaken), as opposed to just throwing up a 1:6 code when the CAN bus is intact(?), all the fuses are in place, and I'm getting a 61 ohm reading on the OBDII port which suggests there's continuation in the CAN bus.

9 hours ago, Botus said:

and way back you said

was lacking a cluster as the original cluster completely died. I had no idea it was a case of just replacing a cluster and being able to re-program it,

so unless you have reflowed and tested original cluster you may as yet never been in a situation where the can can start with a definitely compatible ECU ….

Not quite sure what you're getting at with that last sentence. One way or another, the original cluster is out of the picture and I don't have it anymore (don't ask). I didn't do anything to the original cluster other than sending it off for repair only to have it deemed as beyond repair.

9 hours ago, Botus said:

I think you need to go one step at a time and double check the set up you have is right.  with the concern about ABS and the ECU the engine risk with a different ECU, isn't best situation to go back to Std (if you have) re flow original cluster …. or try with only the later "working" cluster and reprogram just that for the immobiliser? (remembering to go BACK to the original key transponder)

Like I mentioned earlier, unfortunately I no longer have the original cluster. The PCM is only one year older, so I'm hoping there's minimal difference in its configuration. I'm concerned about the potential damage from the mismatch, but the original PCM is almost definitely dead so there's no way I can use it. I'll hang onto it just in case, though. Do you know if there's any way for me to read the settings on the PCM, and perhaps reprogram them to match my car? 

The way the original cluster died is that I was ***** around with my car and I disconnected the positive terminal on my battery (I didn't know that's a bad idea at the time), and once I reconnected it the cluster displayed odd characters instead of digits on the odometer on the screen. I also sent off the cluster to be repaired, and they told me the data inside it was corrupted and there's no way to extract the data that was on the cluster. After doing some additional research, my guess is the EEPROM chip on the original cluster died and that's what caused it to fail.

But beside all of this, my car has at least gotten past the 1:6 error - sort of. It's gone back to its 1:6 error, but after I come back to it later it seems to behave again and will at least crank. In the meanwhile, I now need to find a way to fix my crank-but-no-fire-up problem. I'll try resetting the PCM using FORScan (as Peter kindly pointed out) and see if it's a case of letting the car adjust to the sensors in the car. @Tdci-Peter After resetting the PCM using FORScan and it needs to learn everything again, do you know if the PCM will auto-detect the sensors while it's learning or is there anything additional I need to do?

[Tdci-Peter]

8 hours ago, LTIronWolf said:

After resetting the PCM using FORScan and it needs to learn everything again, do you know if the PCM will auto-detect the sensors while it's learning or is there anything additional I need to do?

I am almost certain it will go back to the as built values, and then automatically learn the actual sensor calibrations just like a new car does.

Have a look through the list of service procedures on Forscan. It will be different for each engine type. On the 1.6TDCI there is a separate learn EGR procedure, for example. On mine I think it just has reset injector values. There is a procedure for learning throttle values on some petrol engines that is a manual operation, something like turning ignition on for 1 minute without touching the throttle, then ign off. But I do not know if this applies to the 1.6 Petrol on the Focus.

Edited July 10, 2018 by Tdci-Peter
Ammend learn procedure