PATS error code 16 - 56 Reg Mk2 Focus

[isetta]

are you saying you swapped the chip over between the clusters?  that chip in the middle of the pic with about 100 soldered connections on it? how was that done?

[Botus]

 

[Tdci-Peter]

Seriously impressive workmanship in that video!

I have done a lot of soldering, and quite a bit of surface mount stuff, but steered well clear of those high density, high pin count devices! 8 pins on a 25thou (0.635mm) pitch is more than enough for me.

I saw how little solder he put on the iron to do the sweep soldering. And the steady techniques in the removing, de-soldering and soldering.

When removing, the lifting force needs to be very light, the attachment of the pads to the pcb material becomes very weak when hot. You need to wait until all of the joints are either liquid or broken, any impatience will rip pads off the pcb, and that will not be easy to repair!

The heat he used will do little damage to the devices, the whole pcb is heated to about 250C in the original soldering operation, for between 15s and a minute. But you do need to try to get the operation done in one go, sustained or too often repeated high temperature will damage the pcb and the device.

ESD is another potential un-mentioned problem. Keep the iron, yourself, and the pcb more or less grounded, A couple of croc clip wires would help.

I would check the results with a magnifying glass under a very good light, as well as the knife test. Solder bridges can be almost invisible. I have had a few of those.

I think I would want to practice on a few duff devices before trying an £800 Cluster. Though a dead cluster on a dead car might be a different matter!

Hats off to anyone who tries something like that and it works!

[Rich237]

Hi All,

My 09 Focus 1.6 TDCI decided to not start today - for no apparent reason.

Started in the morning, dead when I tried to start it a couple of hours later.

Tried to connect Forscan. No connection.

Immobiliser LED is giving me PATS code 1:6

IC diagnotics is showing DTC D900 and E510.

Dash says Engine Malfunction or Transmission Malfunction.

No blown fuses.

AA man managed to get comms to something eventually and got codes U2510 and U1900.

 

So what to look for first?

 

Get the IC out and look for dry joints on the connector? I tried banging the dash and pressing on the IC, but no effect.

Check canbus resistance at OBD socket?

We only have one keyfob so can't try other key.

 

Seems odd to have suddenly gone faulty as there were no signs beforehand.

Any suggestions of what to look at first?

Cheers!

[Botus]

they didn't confirm.... but dying instrument cluster is normal...  

 

http://www.clusterrepairsuk.co.uk/repair/model/ford-focus-instrument-cluster-speedo-mk2?utm_source=FordOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks&utm_campaign=referrals

 

[Rich237]

Thought I'd found the issue. Cracks on solder joints on instrument panel pcb connector. Resoldered but still no change. Wont start. Wont scan.

Canbus looks ok on a scope at the OBDII port.

Measures 60ohms.

What next?

[Botus]

can you find any posts on cluster repairs?  pretty sure when they did mind they said lots of capacitors were in a bad shape on mine.... although might have said that to justify the price

[Tdci-Peter]

On 9/25/2020 at 9:13 PM, Rich237 said:

Tried to connect Forscan. No connection.

Immobiliser LED is giving me PATS code 1:6

IC diagnotics is showing DTC D900 and E510.

Dash says Engine Malfunction or Transmission Malfunction.

No blown fuses.

AA man managed to get comms to something eventually and got codes U2510 and U1900.

I have seen the other post:

Usually, if it just the IC (Dash), then Forscan will still connect to the PCM. Forscan must connect to the PCM to recognise the car before it will look at any other module. Other systems, I think Snap-on and I expect the ones the AA & RAC use, are more general (less Ford specific), and can talk to other modules to get codes even if the PCM has failed. So I presume the AA man got the codes U2510 & U1900 from the IC, as you also saw them there.

I had loads of error codes stored in my PCM when my IC failed, which Forscan could read.

Coupled with the 60ohm reading (I presume you have verified it a few times to be sure there is no intermittent fault), and other symptoms, it is, sadly, looking like a major PCM fault, as you suspect.

[Rich237]

11 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

I have seen the other post:

Usually, if it just the IC (Dash), then Forscan will still connect to the PCM. Forscan must connect to the PCM to recognise the car before it will look at any other module. Other systems, I think Snap-on and I expect the ones the AA & RAC use, are more general (less Ford specific), and can talk to other modules to get codes even if the PCM has failed. So I presume the AA man got the codes U2510 & U1900 from the IC, as you also saw them there.

I had loads of error codes stored in my PCM when my IC failed, which Forscan could read.

Coupled with the 60ohm reading (I presume you have verified it a few times to be sure there is no intermittent fault), and other symptoms, it is, sadly, looking like a major PCM fault, as you suspect.

Thanks Peter,

I think I will try swapping out the PCM for another and if it shows some signs of life, either get the old one cloned or send it off to ECUTesting.

I have a PCM/GEM/IC/KEY/Transponder set off another Focus coming to play with.

The fault seems very consistent. Like something in the PCM has died. It still draws 200-300mA when you power it up though.

I believe the old version (1.3.9) of Forscan will go looking for other modules rather than asking the PCM whats fitted. So I'm going to try that just for the hell of it. Seems a bit dumb not to have a mode to allow you to read other modules if you know what's there an the PCM is dead.

Everything points to a duff PCM which is a shame as all the other common causes are easy and cheap to fix!

Oddly our LR Defender has just started showing signs of intermittent failure to crank. Smack the dash and it works! Looking at the dash, it's the same dodgy connector as in the Ford Focus. Obviously used the same dodgy dash supplier...

[Rich237]

Tested the new PCM with ForScan on the bench with just power and ground and it scanned fine. My original PCM won't scan so pretty sure it's dead.

A good PCM should start sending out cnabus packets as soon as it's powered up. Mine does nothing.

 

Sending it to ECU Testing.

[Masseyf]

Hi all, hopefully ok resurrecting an old thread with first post, but have found this thread really useful, and may help someone else with my query.

Have a focus mk2 2009 reg 1.6 diesel, with PATS code 16, ignition comes on but won’t crank, has engine and gearbox malfunction faults on dash.  Not got a code reader yet, so can’t run diagnostics.

CAN lines tested at OBD plug 6 and 14 gives 120 ohms.  Disconnect C90 and still get 120 ohms at OBD plug.  

Have repeated the test with C90 disconnected, and probing pins 1 and 15 in C90 plug, gives 123 ohms.  Probing the sockets in the fuse box of C90 pins 1 and 15 also gives 120 ohms. 

Was not expecting that!  Assuming 123 ohms is acceptably close enough to 120 ohms, this suggest both halves of the circuit are good, and the problem has to be the actual contacts made in C90 when connected?

Am I missing something?

Thanks 

[unofix]

44 minutes ago, Masseyf said:

Am I missing something?

Yes.

The resistance of the Canbus circuit when complete is 60 ohms. This is achieved by having a 120 ohm resistor at either end of the circuit and hence resistors of the same value in parallel equals half the resistance value.

The most probable fault on your model is the instrument cluster (which is one end of the canbus). The IC's are often a problem with dry solder joints. 

[Masseyf]

25 minutes ago, unofix said:

The resistance of the Canbus circuit when complete is 60 ohms.

Thanks for the reply.  I thought that given canbus is incomplete (as 120ohms is measured with all connected), we would see a value other than 120ohms in one of the two halves of the circuit (maybe either 0 or a much higher resistance), indicating an open circuit/short.  

From what we’ve measured, I figured both halves and resistors are ok. Are you saying this is the case, but a dry solder joint in the cluster can still cause this symptom?  (Would’ve thought a bad joint would mean we’d get something other than 120 on that half)

[unofix]

Your canbus circuit is broken.

measured at any point / any location on the canbus circuit the resistance should be 60 ohms.

If the circuit becomes broken you will be measuring only one resistor at a time instead of both resistors together.

[isetta]

This link is a very lengthy thread but it does give more info on where various connectors are that can cause trouble.  Hope you don’t have to go as far as I did in rewiring the hscanbus. 

 

[Masseyf]

3 hours ago, isetta said:

This link is a very lengthy thread but it does give more info on where various connectors are that can cause trouble.  Hope you don’t have to go as far as I did in rewiring the hscanbus. 

Thanks isetta, no, hopefully i dont need to go to the trouble you did, fair play!

I think it does seem to confirm one thing though, with C90 removed (or any connector), a reading of 120ohms is good, and shows the circuit/connectors/resistor in the loop measured are ok.  If they were not, a much higher or lower reading would be seen.  

 

15 hours ago, unofix said:

Your canbus circuit is broken.

measured at any point / any location on the canbus circuit the resistance should be 60 ohms.

If the circuit becomes broken you will be measuring only one resistor at a time instead of both resistors together.

Hi unofix, yes i understand that.  We're measuring 120ohms with all connectors connected - which indicates a fault.  

However, my query was around trying to narrow down and locate that fault by disconnecting connectors.  If you disconnect a connector (C90 in our case), and probe in both directions of that connector, i expect a high/low resistance reading to indicate the fault is in that direction.  If you get 120ohms again in both directions, it indicates both halves of the loop are ok. 

Which seems to me, to point to the interface of the connector itself where the test took place being the problem.

Unless i am missing something. 

Of course could be an intermittent problem, but seem to get a steady 120ohms with everything plugged in (including while tapping the dash, wiggling C90 and the C90 CAN wires).  

Will try measuring resistance at OBD while plugging/unplugging C90 and see if we get a fleeting 60ohms appear

 

[mjt]

9 minutes ago, Masseyf said:

If you disconnect a connector (C90 in our case), and probe in both directions of that connector, i expect a high/low resistance reading to indicate the fault is in that direction.  If you get 120ohms again in both directions, it indicates both halves of the loop are ok. 

Which seems to me, to point to the interface of the connector itself where the test took place being the problem.

You're absolutely correct. If you're probing into the socket contacts of one half of the connector and the pin contacts of the other and get 120 Ohms in both cases the fault must lie within the connector and can only be a loss of contact between one or both of the contacts.

[Masseyf]

8 minutes ago, mjt said:

You're absolutely correct. If you're probing into the socket contacts of one half of the connector and the pin contacts of the other and get 120 Ohms in both cases the fault must lie within the connector and can only be a loss of contact between one or both of the contacts.

Perfect, thanks.  That is exactly what we're doing with C90, and get 120 in one direction, and 123 in the other.  

Pins/sockets of C90 CAN lines look ok, no corrosion, bent pins, pins pushed back etc.  

Couple of thoughts to confirm/test the C90 contact

1.  test continuity between PCM and OBD (or C112, C113) of each CAN line.  I would expect at least one to give no continuity

2.  unplug C90, and physically run a wire link between the plug and socket of each CAN line.  Re measure resistance at OBD and would hope to see 60 ohms.  

Any thoughts on the above tests, or anything else to confirm our thinking? 

Am happy doing them, just dont wont to damage/break anything furher haha

 

[mjt]

I must confess I'm not an expert on the Focus CANbus but having had a quick look at the diagrams kindly provided by Preee 9 years ago it would appear the terminating resistors are located in the PCM and IPC (not in the BCM as shown in Unofix's diagram earlier).

1. If these diagrams are to be taken literally it looks as if the OBD connector is located next in line to the IPC so if your problem is at C90 (or anywhere else downstream) your test should show a break in continuity in at least one CAN line.

2. I agree, if you unplug C90 and jumper across the CAN lines you should see 60 Ohms across the HS CAN lines if the problem lies at C90. I don't know how you visualise doing that, you ideally need to bypass the actual contacts. If you could find a way of doing it to one line at a time (with C90 plugged in, obviously) that should identify which is the defective connection.

Although you've said the pins and sockets look ok is it possible you have a fractured wire (or even one that wasn't properly crimped at the factory) inside the connector Shell?

 

[Tdci-Peter]

On 10/17/2022 at 6:22 PM, Masseyf said:

CAN lines tested at OBD plug 6 and 14 gives 120 ohms.  Disconnect C90 and still get 120 ohms at OBD plug.  

Have repeated the test with C90 disconnected, and probing pins 1 and 15 in C90 plug, gives 123 ohms.  Probing the sockets in the fuse box of C90 pins 1 and 15 also gives 120 ohms. 

Was not expecting that!  Assuming 123 ohms is acceptably close enough to 120 ohms, this suggest both halves of the circuit are good,

I am a bit suspicious of the 123 reading. That is a 2.5% error, the resistors used are usually better than that. Also you seem to have almost proved that there is a fault on one side of C90, by checking the connector physically, and presumably measuring the each way resistances right at the contacts of the connector.

Try wiggling the wires to C90 (if possible), 123 may indicate a bad joint that opens when the connector is re-inserted.

I assume you have double checked that the 120ohms from the OBD with C90 re-connected is still measured. Always double or treble check in cases like this, false measurements or intermittent faults can really throw you off track.

Check the resistances at C90 using the DMM probes both ways (red/black & black/red). A good resistor is not sensitive to polarity, but a large number of faults are sensitive to polarity. Small voltages present in a circuit due a a fault that leaks power onto the bus will make readings change up or down with DMM polarity. Non-linear elements like failed semi-conductors (ICs, transistors, diodes) will also often be polarity sensitive. Check with the DMM on DC voltage range, with Ign off the bus should be totally dead, no volts at all from line to line. A big problem with DMMs is that in circuits with unknown faults, they can often give odd & mis-leading readings, especially on resistance ranges. I have been caught out by that quite a few times!

There are also some connectors down by the front passenger door that carry the HS-CAN bus and can be used to do both way tests like C90. There are pics of them somewhere on this site, I can probably dig them up if needed.

[Masseyf]

Hi All, hopefully this may help someone else in the future, good news, it seems fixed!  Definitely a problem with the HS_CAN pins in C90. 

We did originally try wiggling the wires whilst connected and measuring resistance at the OBD, but this still gave only 120 ohms.  They were obviously not wiggled enough, as it was tried again and all of a sudden we got a fleeting 60ohms at the OBD.  Wiggled some more, and it settled at 60ohms.  It is now quite stable, even after unplugging/plugging the connecter.

The dash MILs/no start didnt resolve immediately, from memory it took a couple of battery resets or ignition lock cycles but it then started with no issues.  Has been used for a few days now with no issues so far.  

Have the option to get the connector re-pinned but not been done as of yet.  

Appreciate everyones help

 

On 10/20/2022 at 10:43 PM, Tdci-Peter said:

Check the resistances at C90 using the DMM probes both ways (red/black & black/red). A good resistor is not sensitive to polarity, but a large number of faults are sensitive to polarity. Small voltages present in a circuit due a a fault that leaks power onto the bus will make readings change up or down with DMM polarity. Non-linear elements like failed semi-conductors (ICs, transistors, diodes) will also often be polarity sensitive. Check with the DMM on DC voltage range, with Ign off the bus should be totally dead, no volts at all from line to line. A big problem with DMMs is that in circuits with unknown faults, they can often give odd & mis-leading readings, especially on resistance ranges. I have been caught out by that quite a few times!

This is interesting, thanks.  I might have to find a basic auto electrian course as i've quite enjoyed the fault finding, and all cars have gone that way

 

[Tdci-Peter]

12 hours ago, Masseyf said:

The dash MILs/no start didnt resolve immediately, from memory it took a couple of battery resets or ignition lock cycles but it then started with no issues. 

When I had the PATS code 16 error in 2016, it was the infamous Instrument Cluster fault, and I had to use Forscan to reset some persistent error codes, then it started straight away. I guess the battery resets & ignition cycles did the same thing, but Forscan is quicker & easier! I recommend it.

The Instrument Cluster fault is much reported on, but does seem to be rather concentrated around the 2006 build time. Outside that time, other faults in the wiring looms are just as common as the IC. 

Isetta did cure a CAN bus problem by by-passing a troublesome joint. Locating the CAN bus wires in the looms is not impossible, as they are twisted pairs, and simply splicing in a fixed bypass is an option. Ideally it should not bypass too much wiring, and the new wires should follow a similar route to the originals, or it could degrade the bus error rate, but it is not hyper critical.

Intermittent electrical faults are the biggest nightmare on all electrical systems. The Gremlims invariably go in to hiding as soon as a DMM hoves into view. I have often had to play a waiting game, and try to catch them un-awares, but they are all to often smarter & quicker than me, it seems!

[Georgica]

Hi I have the code 16 ford focus 2 1.6 tdci and I measured the OBD voltage and it gives me 120ohm with the plug connected from the engine fuse panel what to be 

[Georgica]

 Hello guys I am new to this ford club I have a problem with ford focus 2 1.6 tdci flickers my red bulb in the dashboard quickly when I put on the ignition and does not let me turn on I tested at the obd plug resistance 120ohm on the device with the school plug and connected the same code 16 to the red bulb!

[Tdci-Peter]

On 11/7/2023 at 9:08 AM, Georgica said:

I tested at the obd plug resistance 120ohm

That would indicate a broken CAN bus - A next test would be to separate C90 (big connector in the Engine bay fuse box or EJB), and measure resistance between pins 1 & 15 in both halves - I would expect to get 120 ohms in one direction, and a high reading in the other direction. This will indicate whether the fault lies towards the Instrument Cluster (IC) end, or towards the ECU (PCM) end.

For a picture of C90, see higher in this thread:

Diagrams of the CAN bus can be found on pages 25 & 26 of the circuit diagram found on this site:

https://www.fordownersclub.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=42087

Since your car is 2006, I would say there is a Very high chance the fault is in the soldering of the main connector on the instrument cluster. See my PDF:

https://www.fordownersclub.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=40491