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Lucky escape with engine?


Pebbleheed
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The radiator fan is controlled by an electronic fan control module. When the engine is running the fan control module is supplied with 12 Volt battery power. The PCM supplies a PWM signal to the fan control module. Based on this PWM signal the fan control module starts/stops the radiator fan and controls its variable fan speed.


The radiator fan can easily be tested. Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor (located on the thermostat housing) and inserting a resistor between the pins of the connector at the harness side. The value of the resistor should be 560 Ohm. this value simulates a coolant temperature of approximately 150 degrees Celsius. 

When switching the ignition on the radiator fan with the resistor in place the radiator fan should immediately be activated at full speed. If the fan is not activated it indicates that there is clearly something wrong. In this case there basically are 4 possible causes of the problem:

* Defective fan (which can be ruled out by connecting the fan diectly to a 12 Volt power source).
* Defective fan control module.
* Defective PCM (missing PWM signal).
* Wiring problem (between the PCM and the fan control module).

 

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The last two of those options sound the most expensive. 

Its an independent garage, not a Ford one. I’ve used them before and they seem ok. Just hoping the fact they’ve called for an electrician isn’t the sign of sky high bills. 

They have diagnostic computers that haven’t shown any fault. I’d expect something to show on this car but there’s nothing. 

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The fan control system is basically pretty simple. I would not be surprised if a non functioning radiator fan is not detected by the PCM.

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Hopefully not the PCM. That doesn’t look cheap on google. 

Will see what the damage is over the next few days when they’ve got it sorted. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The result - a loose connection. 

Fixed for £70. 

No damage to the engine at all as I stopped well in time. 

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A good result mate!

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2 hours ago, Pebbleheed said:

The result - a loose connection. 

Fixed for £70. 

No damage to the engine at all as I stopped well in time. 

Keep your eye on the coolant level for the next few days, It’s well known that once the coolant has leaked the damage is done and you only find out a short time later! Do you know if the garage did a pressure test on the engine? 

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10 hours ago, Russ said:

Keep your eye on the coolant level for the next few days, It’s well known that once the coolant has leaked the damage is done and you only find out a short time later! Do you know if the garage did a pressure test on the engine? 

I don’t believe so no. However it’s driving fine and no signs of damage that I can see. 

No misfiring. No loss of performance. No oil and coolant mix. 

I suspect I got it stopped in time. 

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Well, today was fun. 

I took my car for an MOT prior to listing it for sale. It passed the MOT no issue. But while the mechanic reversed it out a pipe in the engine split and literally fired coolant out, emptying the reservoir in seconds. 

The engine was off within 30 seconds and should have avoided damage but after the loose wire on the fan this is very annoying. 

Ive put a picture below to show the pipe. It’s split around the clip somehow. 

Anyone had this before?

Any ideas on what pipe it is or how this happened?

The mechanic seems to think it’s a simple fix and said he’ll order the pipe from ford and have it fitted ASAP. 

A9642A01-A64D-41D3-AD63-02A5094964CC.jpeg

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