isetta Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 when i did the belt on my 2007 1.6tdci the diesel pump sprocket did align properly but at the time I could not see any reason why it should be aligned. Due to the sprocket on the pump being a different size from the crank and camshaft, I think it only aligns once every three revolutions, or is it once every six, I can't remember now, but that's why I couldn't understand why it is timed as it does not stay in sync with crank or cam. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted June 17, 2018 Author Share Posted June 17, 2018 Thanks guys for all the input. Today I double checked and the timing hole on the fuel pump was out. So I've pinned the Cam and crank and undone the tensioner and taken the old belt off. I then rotated the fuel pump and pinned it too as Ian said. I've removed, cleaned the sealing area and replaced the water pump and fitted the new gasket. Didn't have a torque wrench for 10nm so just nipped them tight on 3/8" ratchet. Refilled coolant and checked for leaks - none. Removed and refitted new idler. So then went to get the new belt on and couldn't get it over the tensioner too. Wasn't far off but just couldn't get it to go over and completely slot on. Any tips/help on that would be great. Then the tensioner itself that came with the pin fitted. Not really sure how it works. I know the boxes need to line up and can see where they go but how do i set it up and what order? Do i pull the pin in the little box before fitting? And then there's a slot in the middle for an allen key to turn something. Help! 😄 Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 Are the engine mount nuts meant to be like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 No, I think you have pulled the nearest stud out a bit. Should only be around 2-3 threads showing on the stud. Just need to remove the nut, then tighten the stud back in before refitting the nut. The mount is exactly the same on the Mk3 so you can double check against that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee_82 Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 Make sure you do it tho ! someone on here a while back had his engine mount bracket snap in half dumping the engine on the floor, possibly because it wasn't screwed in enough. Eeek! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 Ok guys. Those nuts should come off the studs right? When i undo them the nut is still on the stud! I've got a horrible feeling the threads are stripped where the nut is. When i originally came to loosen them they were very very tight, they actually creaked when i used a breaker bar on them. I've left a jack underneath the sump with some wood to support it just in case. Can you just get the studs and nuts? Could someone point me in the right direction of what i need size wise and where i would get them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JW1982 Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 The studs need to be fully inserted using a E-Torx socket. When fully inserted the nuts need to be tightened to the specified torque. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 They're not likely to be stripped, they're strong bolts, but the nuts are nyloc so have a plastic locking washer inside which grips hard. Just need something to counter hold the stud while you remove the nut... Ideally an inverted torx as Wilco says, but i'd probably try mole grips tbh lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 Thanks guys! Maybe it was a bit of plastic i could see and not thread strips! I don't think I have any e-torx so will try the mole grips..... @TomsFocus Did you find the new belt slipped on over then tensioner fairly easily? I couldn't get the belt on yesterday on my first attempt as i couldn't get it over the tensioner. I was close but just couldn't do it. Any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee_82 Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 18 minutes ago, Albert27 said: Thanks guys! Maybe it was a bit of plastic i could see and not thread strips! I don't think I have any e-torx so will try the mole grips..... @TomsFocus Did you find the new belt slipped on over then tensioner fairly easily? I couldn't get the belt on yesterday on my first attempt as i couldn't get it over the tensioner. I was close but just couldn't do it. Any tips? did you release the tensioner? (pulled the pin?) before putting the belt on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 11 minutes ago, Dee_82 said: did you release the tensioner? (pulled the pin?) before putting the belt on? No i don't think i did. I thought the pin needed to stay in until just before you fully tighten it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee_82 Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 it does! leave the pin in place until your ready. start at the top on the cam sprocket, then route it down as tight as you can to the crank sprocket, (via the idler) then sort out the fuel pump and tensioner, if you dont get that right side tight you will never get the left side in. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted June 19, 2018 Author Share Posted June 19, 2018 1 hour ago, Dee_82 said: it does! leave the pin in place until your ready. start at the top on the cam sprocket, then route it down as tight as you can to the crank sprocket, (via the idler) then sort out the fuel pump and tensioner, if you dont get that right side tight you will never get the left side in. Thanks Dee. If you've got it right will it go over fairly easily or is it still a bit tight to push over? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee_82 Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 mine was fine, its getting that section from the cam via the idler to the crank that is tricky, starting at the top, drop it down, then work on it from the wheel arch to get it right, they are both locked in place so wont slip, just dont use any tools on the belt to pull it down!, the tensioner should slip over nice and easy, once in place you can pull the pin which removes the slack then finally tighten it up until the indicator lines up, pull the timing pins, hand turn it via the crank bolt, then try slip the pins in again, it should perfectly line up. lock it up again, crank bolt out, replace with new bolt, then torque her up, its a stretch bolt so its pretty damn tight. Just out of interest, what timing belt kit did you get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted June 19, 2018 Author Share Posted June 19, 2018 6 hours ago, Dee_82 said: mine was fine, its getting that section from the cam via the idler to the crank that is tricky, starting at the top, drop it down, then work on it from the wheel arch to get it right, they are both locked in place so wont slip, just dont use any tools on the belt to pull it down!, the tensioner should slip over nice and easy, once in place you can pull the pin which removes the slack then finally tighten it up until the indicator lines up, pull the timing pins, hand turn it via the crank bolt, then try slip the pins in again, it should perfectly line up. lock it up again, crank bolt out, replace with new bolt, then torque her up, its a stretch bolt so its pretty damn tight. Just out of interest, what timing belt kit did you get? Cheers Dee. All sounds good, just hope i can pull it off now. Been a bit nerve racking especially with the engine mount! I went for the Dayco kit. Can't remember what water pump but it was one from carparts4less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted June 25, 2018 Author Share Posted June 25, 2018 Ok guys, just a final update. I hit a snag on Wednesday when i did my revolution test after fitting the new belt; the marks were slightly out on the Cam and completely out on the fuel pump. I was a tooth out. Got some advice from @iantt and @TomsFocus. Pinned the crank and removed the belt. Moved the cam to line up again with the timing hole and moved the fuel pump round again. Locked the pins again and refiitted the belt; everything lined up this time. Today put it all back together and the result........she fired up and all was ok! Thank you everyone who gave me advice along the way. My biggest task to date and a steep learning curve but glad i did it! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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