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[roger8156]

Hi all i'm hoping you can tell me if my car has a fuel sender unit as I appear to be hitting my head against a brick wall

 

My car is a Ford Mondeo Turnier 2009 MK IV [2007-2015] Estate Estate 2.0 TDCi 1997ccm 140HP 103KW (Diesel)

[Frembrit]

In the tank https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/39/no/26/1562/15613/68205/#9275

[Dee_82]

Not sure it uses the pump though, you need to manually prime it changing the filter so im pretty sure the sender is little more than a float device and a filter sock

 

[roger8156]

On 7/22/2018 at 7:46 PM, Frembrit said:

In the tank https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/39/no/26/1562/15613/68205/#9275

so according to this all mondeo's have a sender unit when trying to buy one off eBay on doing a compartablility check they say it does'nt fit my car???????

 

[Frembrit]

That's the sender for the fuel gauge, is that what you are after?

[roger8156]

after dropping my fuel tank I have found that its not working so got to order one ti replace it and go from there

 

[roger8156]

well part arrived  and fitted but still got the same problem as Dee said its just a fuel gauge so thats note the problem at wits end now to what the problem is I noticed after priming it today there is no fuel getting to the pump at the engine end hope this is not the problem

 

[roger8156]

I now give up I have no push start on the car anymore no lights on the dash nothing battery is reading fully charged and even connected to another vehicle via jump leads nothing??????????

 

[Dee_82]

ok, hold on a sec, I think we need to back up a bit.

What is actually wrong?

your initial question was regarding the sender unit (which isnt a sender unit despite its name, its just a float device with a small filter on it.)

From what your saying it sounds like you have another problem. So start from the beginning and tell us what happened, what went wrong, what did you do to fix it, any symptoms before it went wrong.

How did you prime the car?

The 2.0 has what I think is a really simple way of dealing with it (short of having the built in priming bulb)

 

[roger8156]

14 hours ago, Dee_82 said:

ok, hold on a sec, I think we need to back up a bit.

What is actually wrong?

your initial question was regarding the sender unit (which isnt a sender unit despite its name, its just a float device with a small filter on it.)

From what your saying it sounds like you have another problem. So start from the beginning and tell us what happened, what went wrong, what did you do to fix it, any symptoms before it went wrong.

How did you prime the car?

The 2.0 has what I think is a really simple way of dealing with it (short of having the built in priming bulb)

 

Was driving along at approx 40 to 50 mph when engine cut out not to start again.  Being told by recovery that it was the low pressure sender unit in the tank I changed it only to find out i didnt need to as its not a sender bur just the fuel gauge,  after doing that I have no electrics going to the car at all but the battery is reading 12V ?????????? driver side window open and wont close keyless button wont turn it on ????????????

[roger8156]

we also primed the car as said in the haynes

 

[Dee_82]

12v at the battery doesn't mean anything im afraid, its the current that is important. Have you had the battery tested? Dud Batteries can have all sorts of issues.

No electrics inside the car is big deal. you need to start tracing things back

Do you have a multi meter?

First things first, cars can get awfully confused, especially around batteries. Disconnect the battery and get it to a garage or even Halfords, they will test it and tell you how good it is. leave the car disconnected for at least 20 min. 

If you do have power to the head unit make sure you get the radio code first!

with the car disconnected check the multi pin plugs are seated in the various fuse boxes, disconnect and reconnect it., check all the fuses for continuity. one In the engine bay, one in the foot well and a third in the rear.

Clean the battery terminals, then find the main earth strap that connects to the chassis, itll be next to the battery and probably 3 more under the airbox, check and clean these earth points.

Fit the battery and connect it up tightly. See if you have power inside. Dont try and start it just now.

If its good then on to the fuel issue. if its not then you need to find out what is wrong with the electrics first.

[roger8156]

apart from having the battery checked i have done all you said the reason i didnt get battery checked is we tried with jump leads and that did'nt give us power either

 

[Dee_82]

ok, well was it connected up correctly? did you connect the ground to the battery terminal or the chassis?

If you have power at the battery then you need to find out where that power stops. Is it completely dead inside or is it just the cluster? or does the cluster power on just not turn over?

if its totally dead then trace something simple. you should for example have 12v at the radiator fan all the time (its controlled by a third wire)

you should have power to the interior lights (but not always), the cig lighter socket may or may not have 12v so careful with that as well but the hazard warning switch should always be live. check that one. 

Electrical problems are a pain in the ***** but you need to trace it from where it is working to where it isnt on something that should work. like the radiator / hazard warning switch. 

Do you have an ELM 327 device?

if its totally dead then it wont work but it sounds like something was working when the AA bloke checked it over, even if he did get it wrong!

 

[roger8156]

got the battery on charge at moment then will try again

 

[roger8156]

Just connected it back up to another car and got power but cant even shut the window?

 

[Frembrit]

Sounds like the battery isn't holding it's charge. What kind of charger are you using? give it a bit longer on charge and take it to Halfords or Kwik fit or similar and ask them to test it.

[roger8156]

24 minutes ago, Frembrit said:

Sounds like the battery isn't holding it's charge. What kind of charger are you using? give it a bit longer on charge and take it to Halfords or Kwik fit or similar and ask them to test it.

will leave it on until the morning then take it to Halfords to have it checked.  The battery is from Halfords and less than 3 year old

 

 

[FatHead1979]

1 hour ago, roger8156 said:

will leave it on until the morning then take it to halfords to have it checked.  The battery is from halfords and less than 3 year old

 

 

On Ford's the battery needs to be of a certain chemistry type (silver calcium) i.e. not bog standard "lead acid" if it is, the extra voltage from the smartcharge system will slowly boil it and kill it, Halfords have a rep on here for dishing out the wrong battery type when it comes to Ford's.  I'm not saying they have done this but it's just something to be aware of, if it is a lead acid battery then frankly it's done well to last 3 years.

[Dee_82]

Batteries can have a voltage but cant delivery a current. usually what happens when you try and draw more Amps than it can provide, the voltage drops, this in turn may drop low enough for things not to even work

Get that battery tested, Halfords can do that, but as Damian said, know what your buying before they suggest anything because you really never know what they will hand to you. 

generally speaking, apart from having silver calcium battery which is a must, your looking for the CCA (Cold cranking Amps) to be equal or more (if it will fit) to what you have (assuming you have the correct battery just now) I cant actually remember off the top of my head what mine is (same car as yours) but around 75Ah or more and 750 CCA or more will be in the ball park. Im going to need to replace mine before the winter, expect to pay at least 100 -130 quid

If it were me id probably get a Bosch S5 85Ah 800CCA. High cold crank amps means it can deliver more current on those morning starts, ie, it will struggle less

[Frembrit]

This will most likely be the one I will getting next as I can get it cheaper with their Trade Card  https://www.halfords.com/motoring/bulbs-blades-batteries/car-batteries/yuasa-5-year-guarantee-hsb110-silver-12v-car-battery   unless Euro Car Parts has a better offer on it. (Both local to me as I dont want to have to deal with other online places if it develops a fault)

[pragmatix]

1 hour ago, Frembrit said:

This will most likely be the one I will getting next as I can get it cheaper with their Trade Card  https://www.halfords.com/motoring/bulbs-blades-batteries/car-batteries/yuasa-5-year-guarantee-hsb110-silver-12v-car-battery   unless Euro Car Parts has a better offer on it. (Both local to me as I dont want to have to deal with other online places if it develops a fault)

I found that Ford where actually cheaper for batteries than Halfords and others,  also they are cheaper for windsceen wipers, that may well just be my local dealer, but if you ask for a discount you normally get one

[Frembrit]

Cheers. I'm on my second Ford battery as the original was replaced under warranty because I kept getting the Low battery warning. That was 3 1/2 years ago and this one is doing the same now, so I'm thinking of trying another brand. The Ford battery that I currently have is made by Varta, which I believe is the same as the Bosch batteries. (could be wrong)

[FatHead1979]

4 hours ago, Frembrit said:

Cheers. I'm on my second Ford battery as the original was replaced under warranty because I kept getting the Low Battery warning. That was 3 1/2 years ago and this one is doing the same now, so I'm thinking of trying another brand. The Ford battery that I currently have is made by Varta, which I believe is the same as the Bosch batteries. (could be wrong)

Yup, Varta and Bosch batteries are made in the same factory to the same specifications.  Even the plastic casing is identical, both companies have the same parent company.

[roger8156]

On 8/10/2018 at 2:39 PM, 1979Damian said:

On Ford's the battery needs to be of a certain chemistry type (silver calcium) i.e. not bog standard "lead acid" if it is, the extra voltage from the smartcharge system will slowly boil it and kill it, Halfords have a rep on here for dishing out the wrong battery type when it comes to Ford's.  I'm not saying they have done this but it's just something to be aware of, if it is a lead acid battery then frankly it's done well to last 3 years.

thanks for that just checked my battery from Halfords and its is nothing like that but as it was now showing fully charged I refitted it so I could shut my window and although I didn't try starting the car (due to original problem) it now has power and i managed to shut the window and lock the car now back to the fuel problem I will put some fuel in the tank tomorrow and bleed the line but how can I check if the pump is working?