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Gymfocused
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No because its not a modified one which you will need to read all the codes, i also doubt it's longevity  these are recommended by a lot of folk on here and work and last https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/USB_Modified_ELM327/p4541936_17045457.aspx

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10 minutes ago, pragmatix said:

No because its not a modified one which you will need to read all the codes, i also doubt it's longevity  these are recommended by a lot of folk on here and work and last https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/USB_Modified_ELM327/p4541936_17045457.aspx

Like this?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Diagnostic-Scanner-USB-Modified-ELM327-For-Ford-MS-CAN-HS-CAN-Mazda-Forscan-OBD2/183336115944?epid=22018988795&hash=item2aafaf1ee8:g:wIsAAOSwWida4Hna

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1 hour ago, Gymfocused said:

No, he means that specific one 

https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/USB_Modified_ELM327/p4541936_17045457.aspx

or

https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/TRE27_USB_AUTO_MS_HS_CAN/p4541936_18511559.aspx

the second one is basically more advanced, I replaced mine with that one a few months back, and I highly recommend it.

Not all ELM 327 devices are equal, some are utter garbage in fact many are a complete waste of money and frankly dangerous. ive seen them screw with the cars electronics and all sorts, once I saw it bring up the engine malfunction warning, totally dead.

anyone that knows there stuff on here recommends that chap above, ive had half a dozen different devices [from him] over the years and never once had a problem and I dont know anyone one on here that has 🙂

 

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2 hours ago, Dee_82 said:

No, he means that specific one 

https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/USB_Modified_ELM327/p4541936_17045457.aspx

or

https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/TRE27_USB_AUTO_MS_HS_CAN/p4541936_18511559.aspx

the second one is basically more advanced, I replaced mine with that one a few months back, and I highly recommend it.

Not all ELM 327 devices are equal, some are utter garbage in fact many are a complete waste of money and frankly dangerous. ive seen them screw with the cars electronics and all sorts, once I saw it bring up the engine malfunction warning, totally dead.

anyone that knows there stuff on here recommends that chap above, ive had half a dozen different devices [from him] over the years and never once had a problem and I dont know anyone one on here that has 🙂

 

Thanks for the advice. I have ordered the second one. Its forscan i need to d/l then isn't it?

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yeah, its 100% free, forscan is an amazing bit of kit, I used it to great effect recently trying to diagnose some electrical gremlins. If you get stuck with it just shout, theres a few of us on here that know enough to get you by and a couple of others that are legends. 

Just out of interest, what you planning on doing with it?

 

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On 8/19/2018 at 3:47 PM, Dee_82 said:

yeah, its 100% free, forscan is an amazing bit of kit, I used it to great effect recently trying to diagnose some electrical gremlins. If you get stuck with it just shout, theres a few of us on here that know enough to get you by and a couple of others that are legends. 

Just out of interest, what you planning on doing with it?

 

I'm expanding my range of tools and am interested in having a play around with this. I'm trying to learn new skills etc. I recently did my first oil and filter change which went ok. 

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Cool, well, all ill add is that if you intend on reprogramming the car, check on here first

Doing traces on sensors is one thing, reprograming the car is quite another. in any case, that tool I linked too will do the job nicely 🙂

 

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20 hours ago, Gymfocused said:

I'm expanding my range of tools and am interested in having a play around with this. I'm trying to learn new skills etc.

Another piece of software you will come across is ELMConfig.

ELMConfig has a greater range of facilities to re-programme various options, but as Darren says, you need to be very careful with it, it is quite easy to do damage that is very expensive to fix, just by re-programming.

Forscan is the best tool for diagnostics, sensor monitoring, and servicing. Generally it is pretty safe, just read the screen. It always (as far as I have found, anyway) warns you if it is going to do something irreversible. If it is just clearing error codes, check you have saved them first for future reference, and click ok.

It is a good idea to take some data logs while driving, of things like fuel trims, injector values and air flow or pressure. This gives you some data to compare with if any faults develop later. You can setup and start logging while parked, make sure the computer/pad and any wiring is safe, drive, park, stop the log and save it. No need to even glance at the screen while driving!

Here is a Forscan data log run I did some time ago:

Fuel-Run.PNG

The lines may not mean that much to start with, but it may become useful in future.

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12 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

The lines may not mean that much to start with, but it may become useful in future.

^^ is one of those legends I was talking about.

Below is a trace I ran a few weeks back, symptoms were limp mode and hesitation along with DTCs for turbo actuator, ABS and Steering angle sensor and Cruise control

The purple line stands out like a sore thumb, after some lengthy chats with Peter above it was determined that those rapid spikes were not what they seem.

 

image.thumb.png.004fe3acceda0abe143bc56bbc4dea19.png

 

image.thumb.png.7f662541bb54b3e25d221f82c7d7b883.png

 

they were actually more like this. There was also some funny business with the MAP sensor reading below ambient pressure, which cant happen in a diesel. anyhow, long long story short, it appears the cruise control switches were interfering with the steering angle module which was messing with ABS and the PCM and for some reason it was introducing errors in to the system, fixed the CC, everything else went away! Happy days!

Moral of the story, even if forscan doesn't directly help with the problem, the conversation you have with people on here about it, can lead you to it. it was a throw away remark by peter that something looked like it was causing interference in these traces that led me to fix the things I could fix easily, the CC buttons, job done 🙂  

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