Mikefrew Posted September 8, 2018 Share Posted September 8, 2018 I recently had to change my intercooler to egr pipe due to it being split, I think thats the one, it runs from front left to top left into egr. the original pipe had the iat sensor fitted into it but the new one does not have a hole to fit it into. the car runs ok apart from a bit down on power and mpg and an error code for iat, any ideas on how i can fi the sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatHead1979 Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 On 9/8/2018 at 10:55 AM, Mikefrew said: I recently had to change my intercooler to egr pipe due to it being split, I think thats the one, it runs from front left to top left into egr. the original pipe had the iat sensor fitted into it but the new one does not have a hole to fit it into. the car runs ok apart from a bit down on power and mpg and an error code for iat, any ideas on how i can fi the sensor? It would be helpful to know exactly which engine you're talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikefrew Posted September 12, 2018 Author Share Posted September 12, 2018 Oops, 1.8 tdci. This pic shows where the sensor was on the old pipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abbadon Posted September 12, 2018 Share Posted September 12, 2018 i assume you mean is was where that blank space is with the boss on pipe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikefrew Posted September 12, 2018 Author Share Posted September 12, 2018 Yes, this is the second pipe I bought, with the first one I cut the hole out and tried to mount the original piece with sensor in but no adhesive that I tried was strong enough to handle the pressure and all blew off within 2 days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thanuttiscotsman Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 Yeah I don't think that glue is gonna help you there. I can only assume you have the wrong pipe if it doesn't have the fitting for the sensor. If that's the case I'd get the correct one. I've never heard of having to cut your own sensor hole in anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikefrew Posted September 16, 2018 Author Share Posted September 16, 2018 That is the correct pipe for the car, there isn't one with fitting for sensor, or not that I can find Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pragmatix Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 17 hours ago, Mikefrew said: That is the correct pipe for the car, there isn't one with fitting for sensor, or not that I can find Have you tried a ford dealer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikefrew Posted September 17, 2018 Author Share Posted September 17, 2018 Yeah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatHead1979 Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 I've also searched the 7zap website which especially when you feed it a VIN is pretty good at showing you the right parts for a given car build but having taken a VIN of 1 1.8 TDCi MK4 on Autotrader the site also only showed the pipe that doesn't have the hole/fitting or the IAT sensor. MK4 1.8 TDCi Titanium mondy It seems that early(ish) in the MK4 Mondy production run decided that the engine didn't need the IAT sensor and stopped production of the original type hose that was designed to include the sensor. The type of hose shown by the Op is different to the original hose but that is by design, someone competent with the Ford IDS system needs to perform an update of the PCM as detailed in TSB 44/2008 (shown below). @Mikefrew hopefully this gets you a bit closer to a solution mate. TECHNICAL service BULLETIN No.44/2008 30 July 2008 [Printable HTML page] © 2008 Ford Motor Company All rights reserved. This bulletin represents technical service information only. Without exception all gratis repairs and replacements are subject to the individual warranty and policy procedures of the supervisory Ford Company. The illustrations, technical information, data and descriptive text in this issue, to the best of our knowledge, were correct at the time of publication. Loss of power and unusual engine noise Model: S-MAX/Galaxy 2006.5 (03/2006–12/2014) Build Date: Up to 09/2007 Build Code: Up to 7J Assembly Plant: Genk Engine: 1.8L Duratorq-TDCi (Lynx) Diesel Mondeo 2007.5 (02/2007–09/2014) Build Date: Up to 09/2007 Build Code: Up to 7J Assembly Plant: Genk Engine: 1.8L Duratorq-TDCi (Lynx) Diesel All 303-01D Summary Should a customer express concern that the vehicle has severe loss of power and unusual engine noise, one probable cause is a damaged charge air cooler outlet pipe. To rectify this concern, the damaged charge air cooler outlet pipe should be renewed. The production service part including the fixing for the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor is no longer available because the IAT sensor is not required any more. Furthermore the powertrain control module (PCM) should be re-programmed with the latest PCM calibration. NOTE: Use IDS B56 DVD or a later version. NOTE: Before commencing module configuration or programming, connect the vehicle battery to a suitable external power supply in order to maintain a constant battery voltage throughout the procedure. For detailed information refer to TSB 62/2007. Parts Finis Code Description Quantity 1 521 483 Charge air cooler outlet pipe 1 1 488 233 Blind cap 1 Locally procured Cable tie - Labor Times Description Operation No. Time Charge Air Cooler Outlet Pipe - Remove And Install 23 622 0 - Engine Undershield (If Equipped) - Remove And Install 21 130 4 - IDS - Vehicle Connection/Communication 29 099 1 - IDS - Powertrain Control Module (PCM) - Reprogramming - 29 120 5 Repair/Claim Coding Causal Part: Finis Code of the charge air cooler outlet pipe Condition Code: 01 Service Instruction Charge Air Cooler Outlet Pipe - Renew NOTE: The engine upper cover is held in place by four ball clips. The ball clips are not vertical, but are angled backwards by about 20 degrees. Location of the engine upper cover retaining clips. CAUTION: Only remove the engine upper cover in the sequence shown. If the ambient temperature is below 0° C, detach the engine upper cover with extreme caution. Failure to follow this instruction may cause the engine upper cover to be damaged! Remove the engine upper cover. NOTE: Note the orientation of the clamp to aid installation. Loosen the charge air cooler outlet pipe. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to S-MAX/Galaxy 2006.5 Workshop Manual Section 100-02. Remove the engine undershield (if equipped). Partially loosen the radiator splash shield. Remove and discard the charge air cooler outlet pipe. The service part does NOT include the fixing for the IAT sensor: 1. IAT sensor installed to the production part 2. Charge air cooler outlet pipe 3. Install a blind cap (see Parts Required) to the IAT sensor electrical connector. Secure the IAT sensor electrical connector to the main wiring harness using cable ties (see Parts Required). CAUTION: Make sure that the inside of the pipe ends are clean and free of oil residue. NOTE: Make sure that the new charge air cooler outlet pipe is fully installed to the end stops and not misaligned. Tighten the clamps to 6 Nm. Install a new charge air cooler outlet pipe (see Parts Required) in reverse order. CAUTION: Contact of the engine upper cover with the cowl panel may cause damage (scratches) on the engine upper cover. Install the engine upper cover in the sequence shown. Apply soap solution (maximum concentration of soap in water 1:200) to the ball clip mountings in the engine upper cover. PCM - Re-program NOTE: Before commencing module configuration or programming, connect the vehicle battery to a suitable external power supply in order to maintain a constant battery voltage throughout the procedure. For detailed information refer to TSB 62/2007. Connect the IDS portable diagnostic unit to the vehicle and establish communication (VID the vehicle). Confirm the vehicle details are correct. CAUTION: The backup Central Car Configuration (CCC) gets erased during configuration. NOTE: Use IDS B56 DVD or a later version. Re-program the PCM with the latest calibration. Select the <Toolbox> tab at the top of the screen. Select <Module Programming> and then press the tick. Select <Module Reprogramming> and then press the tick. • Confirm the next screen. • Follow the further instructions from IDS to switch the ignition ON and OFF. Select <PCM> and then press the tick. Module Reprogramming starts. Follow the on screen instructions and confirm. Reload the backup vehicle configuration data stored on the Service Tool. For detailed information refer to TSB 57/2006. Clear any stored DTCs. Disconnect IDS from the vehicle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikefrew Posted September 18, 2018 Author Share Posted September 18, 2018 Thanks for the in depth reply 1979Damian, is the reprogram something I could do myself with a modified elm327 and forscan , or is it a dealer job? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatHead1979 Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 4 minutes ago, Mikefrew said: Thanks for the in depth reply 1979Damian, is the reprogram something I could do myself with a modified elm327 and forscan , or is it a dealer job? No worries. Although I can't say 100%, I suspect from looking at the latter stages of the process, the job will probably need something a bit better than Forscan. Maybe @iantt or @JW1982 can help you with that question. They're generally on the boards at some point every day so I suspect they;ll be along shortly to help out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikefrew Posted October 8, 2018 Author Share Posted October 8, 2018 It's been a while but have now worked out my mpg, was using the computer figures so thought it was ok but have now work if it out with brim to brim and it's way out. Had a run to ed8nburgh and back at the weekend, 380 miles at speed limits using cruise and capture showed as 59.6 which I thought was pretty good but when filling car again it is actually 43 which is way lower than I would have expected so looks like this reprogram may need doing after all. Any ideas where I would get it done? And rough prices, or alternatively if I decided to get a remap would it be done as part of that? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive19821982 Posted May 5, 2021 Share Posted May 5, 2021 I have same issue had pipe changed and the sensor keeps blowing out what can I do please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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