Lenny Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 3 hours ago, WES180 said: Just sell the car!😉 I'd be looking at some of these before the schematic 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonro2009 Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 All looking good here (aside from your technical issues), I’ve enjoyed reading it, again technical issues aside. I am not doing an audio install but I will be installing a lightbar behind my grill and bringing an on-off-on switch into the car so the post about the grommet in the firewall was helpful to me. I’m also thinking of using a trip switch fuse rather than an ‘actual’ fuse. The lightbar will be 288W, I just need to figure out what size of fuse to use. Have you got to the bottom of your own issue yet? EDIT I just realised I missed page 2 🤪 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lenny Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 1 hour ago, Jonro2009 said: All looking good here (aside from your technical issues), I’ve enjoyed reading it, again technical issues aside. I am not doing an audio install but I will be installing a lightbar behind my grill and bringing an on-off-on switch into the car so the post about the grommet in the firewall was helpful to me. I’m also thinking of using a trip switch fuse rather than an ‘actual’ fuse. The lightbar will be 288W, I just need to figure out what size of fuse to use. Have you got to the bottom of your own issue yet? EDIT I just realised I missed page 2 🤪 Piggy back fuse adapter fitted inside the engine bay fuse box would probably be easiest, purchase some twin core 15Amp cable from AutoStar shop on eBay then look at the particular light to see what fuse it takes, The twin core can be return line for the switch, Gives you a 12v signal feed to connect on the light: Rocker Switch fits on to bridge connection from piggy back to light unit All images taken from my 4879 image archive of mk2.5 focus guides Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonro2009 Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 7 minutes ago, Lenny said: Piggy back fuse adapter fitted inside the engine bay fuse box would probably be easiest, purchase some twin core 15Amp cable from AutoStar shop on eBay then look at the particular light to see what fuse it takes, The twin core can be return line for the switch, Gives you a 12v signal feed to connect on the light: Thanks @Lenny I am planning to use a relay and wire it up to the main beam. The switch in the car would allow total control, I can have the switch in the central OFF position so that regardless of the main beam the bar remains off, then one of the ON positions would allow me to turn the bar on independently of the main beam and the other position would see the bar coming on with the main beam only. I've got a diagram of the way I'm planning to do it but its at home. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonro2009 Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 @Lenny this is a diagram similar to my plan. Do you think this would work? I plan to use 12AWG wire for the project. I don’t want to derail the original topic so when I do get from the planning stage I will start my own topic, but in principle I think this should work?? The ‘lights’ in this diagram would be a lightbar. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lenny Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 1 minute ago, Jonro2009 said: Thanks @Lenny I am planning to use a relay and wire it up to the main beam. The switch in the car would allow total control, I can have the switch in the central OFF position so that regardless of the main beam the bar remains off, then one of the ON positions would allow me to turn the bar on independently of the main beam and the other position would see the bar coming on with the main beam only. I've got a diagram of the way I'm planning to do it but its at home. Cool mate, Personally I can vision your plan without the diagram being present, you will need two seperate power sources feeding to the 3-way switch, Well both power sources can be constant live then fit an "auto on" DRL relay to the high beam positive which would allow you to active the auxiliary light via switch I won't distract this man's progress thread any further and I look forward to seeing your progress on another thread mate, 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lenny Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 2 minutes ago, Jonro2009 said: @Lenny this is a diagram similar to my plan. Do you think this would work? I plan to use 12AWG wire for the project. I don’t want to derail the original topic so when I do get from the planning stage I will start my own topic, but in principle I think this should work?? The ‘lights’ in this diagram would be a lightbar. And will have more of a white colour output than a yellow 😉 Going to look great, maybe upgrade high beam to philips off road led 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ubetcha Posted March 9, 2019 Author Share Posted March 9, 2019 So as I said in my caliper thread, I've been doing bits and bobs on the car today. Whilst I waited for the first coat of caliper paint to dry I set about removing my audio fuse holder and replacing it with my newer one. New trip switch fuse holder (30A) Which is replacing the old 'replace the blown fuse type' of fuse holder (80A - OMG that was overkill for my install) New fuse holder wired up. New fuse holder in place, in tripped out position (OFF). Everything back together and looking stock, admittedly it really needs a ***** good engine clean. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lenny Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 Excellent job done there mate, Very easy to reset in seconds; if it ever trips instead of replacing the fuse. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ubetcha Posted March 9, 2019 Author Share Posted March 9, 2019 Yes and not only the ease of resetting it, it's the correct amperage (well nearly) as the amps got a 25A fuse. Additionally and this perhaps is the biggest reason for doing the swap, If I had to swap that 80A fuse I can bet my life that I would drop something, the fuse, a screw, anything down into the under belly of the engine. Now at least the reset is tool-less and that's far simpler and easier for everyone involved! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Batman mk3focus st estate Posted May 26, 2020 Share Posted May 26, 2020 I'm about to embark on the same challenge again looking everywhere for a wiring diagram but can not find any. Came across this thread. In your pin diagram you have a 12v ignition pin. Is that not the case? If not why not splice the 12v wire from the lighter/12 volt socket as they are ignition powered. I believe. I could be wrong. I have a 12v relay from rear 12v socket with switches up front for my amps so I may have to use those ☹️ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay2007l Posted June 26, 2023 Share Posted June 26, 2023 On 3/6/2019 at 4:17 PM, Ubetcha said: A few more pictures.. really I can't see how it's not a ***** fuse.. Hello, did you ever find the problem with no power to the Stereo as I have the exact same problem and and have spent many days trying to figure it out as have checked all fuses but still no power to the radii, all I did was remove the radio and when re installed it have no power at all. Any help greatly appreciated. Regards James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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