Help with coolant issue

[sonic113]

Father in law caught some wire and tore a radiator hose on his 1.6 2009 ZETEC cmax, same engine  that's in my focus. Long story short we got new hose and fitted it but car is heating up. Thermostat seems to be opening and rad fan kicks in about 99/100  degree Celsius , I had it connected to forscan to monitor engine temp ect as the dash gauge doesn't seem to be useful it just reads normal , the issue is it's over  pressureizing and putting water back into coolant tank, when it's heated up the car won't start untill it cools down a little.

 

Really having issues with this one, could it be air locked? Is there a way to bleed the system?

 

Any input is very much welcome 

 

Thanks

[JW1982]

Filling/bleeding the cooling system of these cars/engines can be a real nightmare.

The best way to make sure there is no air left inside the cooling system is by vacuum filling the cooling system. This is by far the most easy and reliable method.

As an alternative you can raise the front of the car approximately 30 cm, remove the coolant reservoir cap and run the engine at 2000 RPM until it reaches its normal operating temperature and the thermostat opens. By using this method any air inside the system will be purged out of the cooling system.

[sonic113]

Thanks wilco

 

I will try that tomorrow morning and see how it goes. Will report back.

[sonic113]

Well Not looking good,

tried bleeding it today and  thought all was good but no no lol!

She heating up to about 85 degrees C  but the temp garage is just going to normal. All the coolant pipes get really firm wit pressure the the engine will cut out and not start until she cools.  The coolant level is falling in the Tank but there is 100% No Visible leaks around the engine. 
at all. the oil cap looks like this, would this be blown head gasket?

[Albert27]

On 11/23/2018 at 9:55 PM, JW1982 said:

Filling/bleeding the cooling system of these cars/engines can be a real nightmare.

The best way to make sure there is no air left inside the cooling system is by vacuum filling the cooling system. This is by far the most easy and reliable method.

As an alternative you can raise the front of the car approximately 30 cm, remove the coolant reservoir cap and run the engine at 2000 RPM until it reaches its normal operating temperature and the thermostat opens. By using this method any air inside the system will be purged out of the cooling system.

Hi Wilco, I've done  this on my mk2.5 without raising the car and same on mk3.  Is it essential to do this to get all the air out?  Just wondering as my mk3's coolant level still drops over the course of several months.  

[JW1982]

Raising the front of the vehicle approximately 30 cm, removing the coolant reservoir cap and running the engine at 2000 RPM until it reaches normal operating temperature and the thermostat opens is a known alternative method for the 1.4/1.6 Zetec S(E) / Duratec (Sigma) engines. This method does not necessarily work on other engine types.

Vacuum filling is still the most reliable way to fill the coolant system. After the coolant system is vacuum filled there is absolutely no air left inside the cooling system. Once the cooling system is vacuum filled correctly there is no need to bleed the system or add coolant afterwards.

 

Because I had to work on the cooling system of my 1.0 ECOboost and the 1.6 ECOboost of my parents a few times I made an adapter myself to vacuum test and vacuum fill the cooling system.

This adapter is installed into the filling opening of the coolant reservoir. The adapter can be operated with every vacuum source that can generate enough vacuum. I use an old refrigerator compressor but an easier solution like for example a vacuum pump to preserve wine will also be perfectly suitible.

Once the correct vacuum (approximately 28 inHg) is reached just close the valve on the adapter and disconnect the vacuum hose from the vacuum source. Next the system the system must be left vacuumized for approximately 15 minutes. If the system maintains the vacuum it is perfectly airtight. 

When the cooling system has turned out to be airtight the system can be filled with fresh coolant. This is very easy. Just put the disconnected side of the vacuum hose inside a container with fresh coolant and open the valve on the adapter slowly. The vacuum inside the coolant system will simply suck the coolant from the container into the cooling system. Once the coolant inside the coolant reservoir reaches the correct level the valve can be closed. If there is still vacuum inside the cooling system you just disconnect the vacuum hose from the adapter and open the valve slowly. At this point the coolant level may drop a tiny bit. After the adapter is removed from the coolant reservoir you just have to top up the coolant to the correct level.

I used this method numerous times and I never had to add any coolant afterwards.

[sonic113]

28 minutes ago, JW1982 said:

Raising the front of the vehicle approximately 30 cm, removing the coolant reservoir cap and running the engine at 2000 RPM until it reaches normal operating temperature and the thermostat opens is a known alternative method for the 1.4/1.6 Zetec S(E) / Duratec (Sigma) engines. This method does not necessarily work on other engine types.

Vacuum filling is still the most reliable way to fill the coolant system. After the coolant system is vacuum filled there is absolutely no air left inside the cooling system. Once the cooling system is vacuum filled correctly there is no need to bleed the system or add coolant afterwards.

 

Because I had to work on the cooling system of my 1.0 ECOboost and the 1.6 ECOboost of my parents a few times I made an adapter myself to vacuum test and vacuum fill the cooling system.

This adapter is installed into the filling opening of the coolant reservoir. The adapter can be operated with every vacuum source that can generate enough vacuum. I use an old refrigerator compressor but an easier solution like for example a vacuum pump to preserve wine will also be perfectly suitible.

Once the correct vacuum (approximately 28 inHg) is reached just close the valve on the adapter and disconnect the vacuum hose from the vacuum source. Next the system the system must be left vacuumized for approximately 15 minutes. If the system maintains the vacuum it is perfectly airtight. 

When the cooling system has turned out to be airtight the system can be filled with fresh coolant. This is very easy. Just put the disconnected side of the vacuum hose inside a container with fresh coolant and open the valve on the adapter slowly. The vacuum inside the coolant system will simply suck the coolant from the container into the cooling system. Once the coolant inside the coolant reservoir reaches the correct level the valve can be closed. If there is still vacuum inside the cooling system you just disconnect the vacuum hose from the adapter and open the valve slowly. At this point the coolant level may drop a tiny bit. After the adapter is removed from the coolant reservoir you just have to top up the coolant to the correct level.

I used this method numerous times and I never had to add any coolant afterwards.

 

 

Wilco

Thats a great job there, Do you think there still could be an airlock in my case? I was gong to remove the thermostat and test it with that out just to see if it makes any difference encase the thermostat is sticking?

[sonic113]

Update

 

Ok so bled her again and thought all was fine. After a 2-3 mile run she heats up cools down but the pressure in the system is massive to a point where car stalls and wont start. Massive burping/gurgling when coolant cap is removed and fluid seems to be flowing back in tank on bottom coolant hose.

When left over night coolant level drops slightly, oil is milky as hell, I think he has blown head gasket/seal and someway in coolant is running in the oil when warm or left over night but when at idle or driving combustion gases from one of the cylinders is being built up and pushed through in to the coolant system causing the excessive pressure. so I plan to strip head off tomorrow to look as its the only thing I can think of doing, I think i have checked all else, even pressure cap was renewed but same issue.

 

I originally though he just tore the front hose on a piece of wire he got caught on the underside but that night he drove on home and noticed teh fans running on when he stopped car. next morning he started up and idled for a bit to get heater going, No heat came but a red triangle with ENGINE HOT Waring popped up but he drove on to work with it (He really silly with car stuff lol!) again fan was running when he stopped. It was that evening I got the call and went down, oil level was low so topped it up and fitted new hose but now she running like this so I think its pointing to a head gasket,

 

any advice or info welcomed before I make a start as it would be great to egt a second opinion.

 

Cheers fella's

 

[JohnF]

On 11/24/2018 at 4:15 PM, sonic113 said:

Well Not looking good,

tried bleeding it today and  thought all was good but no no lol!

She heating up to about 85 degrees C  but the temp garage is just going to normal. All the coolant pipes get really firm wit pressure the the engine will cut out and not start until she cools.  The coolant level is falling in the Tank but there is 100% No Visible leaks around the engine. 
at all. the oil cap looks like this, would this be blown head gasket?

Yes, looks like failed CHG.  It probably overheated, warped the head and blew the gasket.

[JohnF]

Yes