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Reversing camera Sync 3


jonah406
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@Phil21185 could I trouble you for a photo of the pins of the SAPA sensor. I think I can source some from your model number. But need to make sure they will fit my loom.  As my back sensors have a different fitting to the loom on the front. 

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Sure. Give me about 20 mins. I'll even out it on the appropriate thread for you 🤣

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https://cardiagn.com/2012-2013-focus-workshop-repair-service-manual/

Language: English
Format: RAR HTML
Size: 198Mb
Free download 2012 – 2013 Ford Focus Full Workshop Repair service Manual
The password for archive: cardiagn.com

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1rcJlLlwfzNhiy4L9IS9_FjdTffCljAxE
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On 9/28/2019 at 1:12 PM, fridaycider said:

I had to splice my power from reverse light feed . Could never get a feed from original wire so I still get a code saying there is no communication with the camera . Can see why it probably won't work properly . It is enabled as far as I can see but never had a propper look. Finding the time as usual .lol

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I have exactly the same problem, and yet, removed the glove box but never found GPSM to connect pins 2, 3 to 16,17.

Any idea?

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11 hours ago, Sandra15a said:

I have exactly the same problem, and yet, removed the glove box but never found GPSM to connect pins 2, 3 to 16,17.

Any idea?

Why you looking for the GPS module when fitting a camera ?

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15 hours ago, Sandra15a said:

I have exactly the same problem, and yet, removed the glove box but never found GPSM to connect pins 2, 3 to 16,17.

Any idea?

I think you're looking for the sync 2 upgrade thread?

The gpsm module should live behind the rear view mirror cover.

 

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On 10/14/2019 at 10:06 AM, Tommo17 said:

Why you looking for the GPS module when fitting a camera ?

I'm adapting my Focus SE 2017 from 4.2" to 8" screen Sync 3, until now everything is working except reverse camera and GPS navigation.

First, I can't activate an aftermarket reverse camera on sync 3, pins 14 and 15 are connected to signal and return respectively - already did some changes at APIM AS BUILT -  nothing happens.

Second, I should connect GPSM pins 2 and 3 to APIM pins 16 and 17 respectivelly, to get Navigation ON, can't find the module!

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On 10/14/2019 at 2:47 PM, Phil21185 said:

I think you're looking for the sync 2 upgrade thread?

The gpsm module should live behind the rear view mirror cover.

 

I'm adapting my Focus SE 2017 from 4.2" to 8" screen Sync 3, until now everything is working except reverse camera and GPS navigation.

First, I can't activate an aftermarket reverse camera on sync 3, pins 14 and 15 are connected to signal and return respectively - already did some changes at APIM AS BUILT -  nothing happens.

Second, I should connect GPSM pins 2 and 3 to APIM pins 16 and 17 respectivelly, to get Navigation ON, can't find the module!

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@Stoney871 could the above post please be moved to Luke's sync upgrade thread - op might get more help there? 🙂

@Sandra15a I'm not sure what the problem would be with the reverse cam, bit assuming your connections are good, you've supplied power to the camera and the camera isn't faulty, this sounds like as built programming. What exactly did you change? 

If I remember rightly, the bit to change is

7D0-01-01 xXxx xxxx xxxx. Most likely you will need this to be a B.

As for the GPS error, those connections are a splice, so the pins should not be removed from the GPS plug, but a connection shoulbe added between these pins and the APIM. If you used scotchlocks, make sure that they actually bite through the sheathing on the wire. I had exactly this problem and I ended up soldering a y-splice instead.

Once you've done this, check in Forscan if the gpsm is found on the bus. Use a service procedure to reset the module and see if that sorts it.

 

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I tried to use scotchlocks on my reverse camera project and they wouldn’t work for me either, even the smallest gauge ones wouldn’t cut through. I can’t solder so ended up cutting the wires and then using solder sleeves.

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2 hours ago, Jonro2009 said:

 I can’t solder...

Have you given it a go, Jonro? It's not so difficult once you get the hang of it. Or is it a physical thing that prevents you?

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Have you given it a go, Jonro? It's not so difficult once you get the hang of it. Or is it a physical thing that prevents you?
I'm physically able I just can't get it right. I've watched some YouTube videos but can't get it right. I've melted wires trying to do it, I just don't know where the iron should heat and if the solder should touch the iron etc. It's a skill I'm keen to master though but I have up lol

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

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No worries - that's just practice.

There's a few things that are important - Tinning your iron tip and making sure what you're soldering is clean.  Also, get hold of a brass wire sponge in a holder - this'll help keep your iron clean without degrading the metal of your tip.  Most folk use a wet sponge, but this will eventually eat away the iron tip.

Melt a small amount of solder onto your tip and wipe the iron on your brass sponge.  This will help spead a thin layer over the tip. Other than that, you shouldn't really melt solder directly onto the iron.  The solder will quickly overheat and discolour, especially if it has flux in it, then you'll find it hard for it to take or flow smoothly onto your surface.

If you're melting wires, you're holding the iron on too long.  I try to have the iron on the opposite side of the surface (wire, whatever) to the point of contact of my solder, if that makes sense. The heat will conduct quicker (and therefore stay more local in whatever you're soldering) if the iron tip is tinned.

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16 hours ago, Phil21185 said:

@Stoney871 could the above post please be moved to Luke's sync upgrade thread - op might get more help there? 🙂

@Sandra15a I'm not sure what the problem would be with the reverse cam, bit assuming your connections are good, you've supplied power to the camera and the camera isn't faulty, this sounds like as built programming. What exactly did you change? 

If I remember rightly, the bit to change is

7D0-01-01 xXxx xxxx xxxx. Most likely you will need this to be a B.

As for the GPS error, those connections are a splice, so the pins should not be removed from the GPS plug, but a connection shoulbe added between these pins and the APIM. If you used scotchlocks, make sure that they actually bite through the sheathing on the wire. I had exactly this problem and I ended up soldering a y-splice instead.

Once you've done this, check in Forscan if the gpsm is found on the bus. Use a service procedure to reset the module and see if that sorts it.

 

I've followed exactly your instructions, the camera have been tested on another monitor and it works perfectly, the problem certainly has to do with APIM programming. Same for the GPS, I've made the connections soldering a y-splice, pin 2 to pin 16 and pin 3 to pin 17 but APIM still shows DTC, no gps antenna.

I'm wondering, where could I get a VIN number  for an APIM compatible AS BUILT file to replace mine and see what happens. 

 

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On 9/28/2019 at 9:13 AM, Phil21185 said:

Hm, chances are the power was regulated by the BCM and/or when in reverse. Did you ever have it enabled in Forscan?

When I wrote in Luke's APIM AsBuilt over mine, the camera 'worked' in reverse - that is, I had a blank blue screen so the system was doing what it should have done.  From what Luke said (ages ago, back when we were all upgrading our Syncs like crazy things!) the video feed simply gets send directly to two pins in the APIM, suggesting that power comes from elsewhere.

 

Its just going to be a trial and error thing I think.  There'll be a guide on my build thread when I manage it anyway!

Luke's APIM AsBuilt???? do you still have a copy of this file?

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On 9/29/2019 at 4:18 AM, Tommo17 said:

Yes mate. Just got a blue screen as if camera wasn’t there. Plug in aftermarket and it worked straight away. Forscan shows IPM but with DTCs can’t read. Guessing as no power to it. 
 

so if you’ve got no fakra and 2 extra pins in your plug im guessing them extra 2 go to your APIM 14/15 and the wiring is for the newer camera without module ? 

I can't even see this "blue screen as if camera wasn’t there", the unit simply does nothing, no change at all, not even a flickering on the screen.

Electrically, everything seems perfect, it is certainly a programming issue. I've already did some changes using forscan, but until now, nothing.

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On 9/30/2019 at 10:41 AM, Luke_Anderson said:

This is the standard ford Mk3 prefacelift camera on the sync 3 upgrade. 
 

 

Hi Luke

 

On 9/30/2019 at 10:41 AM, Luke_Anderson said:

This is the standard ford Mk3 prefacelift camera on the sync 3 upgrade. 
 

 

Hello Luke, I've read something about an AS BUILT file for focus you posted here, do you still have it? can I get a copy? My focus SE 2017 came originally with an 4.2 screen, I've installed a SYNC 3 unit, and except for camera and GPS, everything else is working perfectly. Already checked all the connections and the only hope for me is a AS BUILT file compatible. 

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Have you tried adjusting your current As-Built? 

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5 hours ago, Sandra15a said:

Hi Luke

 

Hello Luke, I've read something about an AS BUILT file for focus you posted here, do you still have it? can I get a copy? My focus SE 2017 came originally with an 4.2 screen, I've installed a SYNC 3 unit, and except for camera and GPS, everything else is working perfectly. Already checked all the connections and the only hope for me is a AS BUILT file compatible. 

It is unwise to overwrite an asbuilt completely unless you are happy you know what you're doing.

If you are not getting a blue screen When entering reverse then that is definitely APIM programming. When I change the as-built, I get a plain blue screen as I have no camera. You changed the second digit in the first line to a B? Can you just confirm for me you have with front, rear or both parking sensors too?

If you don't have sensors, this should be a 3.

Does the GPSM show up in the list of modules in Forscan?

If not and you're certain you've spliced in correctly and your connections are good, unplug the module and check you've removed the sticky grey foam enough so that none has gone inside the plug and might be preventing contact when connected.

If not then I can only think of a duff GPS module. Where did you get it from?

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4 hours ago, Phil21185 said:

It is unwise to overwrite an asbuilt completely unless you are happy you know what you're doing.

If you are not getting a blue screen When entering reverse then that is definitely APIM programming. When I change the as-built, I get a plain blue screen as I have no camera. You changed the second digit in the first line to a B? Can you just confirm for me you have with front, rear or both parking sensors too?

If you don't have sensors, this should be a 3.

Does the GPSM show up in the list of modules in Forscan?

If not and you're certain you've spliced in correctly and your connections are good, unplug the module and check you've removed the sticky grey foam enough so that none has gone inside the plug and might be preventing contact when connected.

If not then I can only think of a duff GPS module. Where did you get it from?

Originally the car have no front  or rear camera neither parking sensors so,  these options "with front," "rear" and "parking sensors" were all disabled. After the upgrade to sync 3, I plugged an aftermarket camera and now am trying to activate it. Actually, I'm using an original ford camera, but as I have no camera module, I identified each pin on he original connector and just plugged power, ground, signal and return wires. This way it works perfectly as a normal aftermarket camera, already tested with two other multimedia head units. It's really a matter of programming, for sure.

About the GPS, I did this test: original GPSM disconnected, it disappear from Forscan list, reconnect it and then he is there again even after spliced it out. But the APIM just simply ignore it's presence. And yes !  I did connected an extra antenna to the APIM

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  • 1 month later...

Do you think I'm not getting the parking lines due to taking the live from reverse light as my camera is genuine.
Or is there an option to activate it that I've missed .
The option is ticked on the sync 3 unit .

All the help here is thanked as any information is welcome .

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Also where do I take the live from other than reverse light ?

Sent from my SM-A705FN using Tapatalk

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  • 2 weeks later...

@Luke_Anderson Sorry to hijack the thread but I’m having issues retrofitting a reversing camera to my 2018 Ford Titanium. I’m using a genuine new ford camera with wiring. Connected to the grey plug in rear. Activated using Forscan. I get a blue screen followed by a black screen and message ‘Camera unavailable’. I’d really appreciate any advice 

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[mention=92254]Luke_Anderson[/mention] Sorry to hijack the thread but I’m having issues retrofitting a reversing camera to my 2018 Ford Titanium. I’m using a genuine new ford camera with wiring. Connected to the grey plug in rear. Activated using Forscan. I get a blue screen followed by a black screen and message ‘Camera unavailable’. I’d really appreciate any advice 


I'm on the mobile app, which model Ford do you have?

If you have the message coming up on screen then some part of your wiring is not correct. Are you using the full OEM wiring from start to finish?

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

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Hi people, I'm not sure who to aim this question at but@Luke_Anderson seems to have had his APIM setting quoted previously so perhaps you could help?

I'm helping to fit an OEM reverse cam to a MK5 Mondeo, the wiring from the plug on the camera to the plug in the rear wing is a self build. It's a 6core wire and we have identified all the correct PIN outs. The camera displays as expected apart from the dynamic steering guide and the zoom feature. I think I have narrowed it down to the following two lines in the APIM

726-34-01
&
726-39-02

Would you mind letting me know what the two lines read in your APIM please? Or do you know where I may be going wrong?

Cheers



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