Focus 2013 1.6 tdci oil service

[The lurk]

Hi, I have a 2013 focus 1.6 tdci titanium x, which I want to complete a service on. I have purchased genuine ford parts but could do with a walk through type video. I’m not mechanically gifted so need it to be simple. 

Can anyone direct me to video that could assist please? The ones I’ve seen do not seem to show my model. 

Thank you

[TomsFocus]

I can't find a video for the correct model either.  It is very similar to the older Focus 1.6TDCi though.  This is about the clearest video I can find for those.

 

[Luke4efc]

Depends what you consider a complete service. Are you changing coolant, brake fluid, cabin filter, air filter, gearbox oil etc.

[TomsFocus]

oil service is an intermediate service, it's just oil & oil filter.  Cabin filter would be optional here.

Air filter is every 3 years/30k but really don't need a guide for that.

Brake fluid is recommended every 2 years but honestly, for what it costs at a garage is best left to them.  Most people don't even bother, I've only ever done mine after replacement parts.

Coolant is good for 10 years on modern Fords, so only changed with the cambelt & waterpump really.

Gear oil has no recommended replacement, should be sealed for life.

Fuel filter is recommended every 37.5k, but often needs doing sooner on this engine.

[The lurk]

Thanks for the info so far. I’ve bought an oil filter and oil, air filter and pollen filter. I’ll check out the video. 

 

[Albert27]

2 hours ago, The lurk said:

Thanks for the info so far. I’ve bought an oil filter and oil, air filter and pollen filter. I’ll check out the video. 

 

Really you should change the washer on the sump plug too instead of using the old one again. I have re used old ones but it's best practice to replace.  One like this https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Ford_Focus_1.6_2013/p/car-parts/engine-parts1/engine-parts/sump-pans-and-sump-plug/?333590040&1&a3c09ba3b514e10210d23219f180c6727088ec9a&000567

[martyntdci]

I don't know about everybody else, but my oil n filter gets done twice a year. Air filter induction kit (gets washed twice a year) fuel filter once a year. Cabin once a year. Like said always do washer with sulp plug. Or also you can upgrade your sump plug to a gold plug which the magnet is stronger but costs around £20.  I'm superstitious of engine flush through, so if u wish just use a cheaper gradiant of your oil for a few weeks this will be better. 

[andypsp]

i always do my oil/filter change every 6months. its quick and easy to do and with Castrol oil on offer at Halfords at £17 at the mo its time to stockup. oil filter around £5 when ecp has 50% deal. fuel filter changed every 2yrs, 

[Oldster]

When I a lot younger than I am now I had an MG Maestro 2.0i. It was a bit of a lump but fun to drive and went quite rapidly.

Anyway I had it serviced annually with an interim oil and filter change each year. I reckon it was worth it because the engine was often operating at high revs and near to maximum power output. My memory is that the interim servicing didn't cost very much and seemed to please the engine so it made a lot of sense.

If you're skilled enough to do it for yourself that's a bit of a bonus.

[martyntdci]

Once you have watched a few video's, and had help from the right people it becomes easy. You need to get to know your car,  only way is to delve in. U may need a t20/25 for the pins on the under tray. I use oil filter players on mine filter (not a insert) . eBay around 8 pounds. Your oil filter a insert? If so you should have a black canister some where in the bay with like a socket nut on the top. Tnis is your oil filter housing. Crack of sump plug, replacement washer maybe 3 quid. The rest you will know

[FatHead1979]

4 hours ago, martyntdci said:

I don't know about everybody else, but my oil n filter gets done twice a year. Air filter induction kit (gets washed twice a year) fuel filter once a year. Cabin once a year. Like said always do washer with sulp plug. Or also you can upgrade your sump plug to a gold plug which the magnet is stronger but costs around £20.  I'm superstitious of engine flush through, so if u wish just use a cheaper gradiant of your oil for a few weeks this will be better. 

An "engine flush" can have its place or at least it did in terms of the wife's 2008 MK2.5 1.8 Duratec Focus.  Since it was purchased about 18 months ago it had always used a bit of oil and needed to be topped up each month, although it didn't seem to have any problems passing an MOT.  When I serviced it last year I used Forte flush and as best I can tell it hasn't used a drop of oil in the last 8 months.  As with most things, different people will have different results but it's really made a massive difference to the wife's car.

[mjt]

I'm also a bit concerned about using flush. Most engines have areas that don't fully drain down so a refill is always less than a dry fill. This means that some flush will remain and it will take several oil changes to dilute it down to a minimal level.

[FatHead1979]

5 minutes ago, mjt said:

I'm also a bit concerned about using flush. Most engines have areas that don't fully drain down so a refill is always less than a dry fill. This means that some flush will remain and it will take several oil changes to dilute it down to a minimal level.

Handily the 1.8 and 2.0 Duratec are chain cam, I'd be less inclined to use a flush on a wet belt engine as the belt is much more likely to be negatively affected by chemical additives than a chain.

[gaz_moose]

I wouldn't bother with engine flush.  just drain your oil when its hot. if you have just got the car and think the oil is excessively dirty then just do an additional oil and filter change.

do the later 1.6's not have a cambelt?

[TomsFocus]

9 minutes ago, gaz_moose said:

do the later 1.6's not have a cambelt?

Yeah, the 8valve 1.6TDCi still uses a cambelt.  It's not a wet belt like on the 1.8 TDCi though so engine flush wouldn't cause that any issues.  The 8v engine also doesn't suffer with carbon build up like the old 16v used in the Mk2 so engine flush shouldn't really be necessary anyway.  

I have used engine flush to release a stuck lifter on an old petrol engine, wouldn't risk it on a diesel personally.

[martyntdci]

I didn't think the 1.8 was wet? Belt and chain

[TomsFocus]

13 minutes ago, martyntdci said:

I didn't think the 1.8 was wet? Belt and chain

There can be both types on the 1.8 TDCi Lynx engine.  Top belt is always a dry belt.  But the lower one can either be a wetbelt or a chain.

[FatHead1979]

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

There can be both types on the 1.8 TDCi Lynx engine.  Top belt is always a dry belt.  But the lower one can either be a wetbelt or a chain.

I suspect that there have been a fair few 2009 onwards Lynx engines that have gone pop/boom from owners not knowing the lower chain was changed for a wetbelt.

[martyntdci]

Mines chain 

[M6 44t car park attendant]

I personally drop 1l out and refill with 1l diesel, drive round the block, low revs, low load.

Drop the lot out, leave the bung out and tip 1l fresh diesel in.....allow to drain for 5mins (***** break)

Bung cheap oil in -5w/30(low saps) from home bargains £14 A pop- 

Drive round the block(low revs, low load)

Drop that + change filter then refill with Magnatec 5w/40 C3 dexos2 ...... A5 is specified but C3 is better for diesels.

First time I did a flush as above I got loads of lumps of carbon out and my oil pressure at the turbo banjo shot up to

2.3bar at idle from 1.6bar (hot)

6.1bar at idle from 5.0bar (cold)

I had a special banjo bolt made with a 1/8npt thread in the top for my pressure sensor fitment.

 

I don't know if these later 8v motors will prove to be as unreliable as the older 16v counterparts but given that they use a similar EGR system I wouldn't be surprised to find it's a carbon muncher.  I'm taking no chances! I keep the oil crystal clear and monitor oil pressure.

[FatHead1979]

On 1/14/2019 at 3:03 PM, martyntdci said:

Mines chain 

Ford started fitting a belt instead of chain for the lower cam early 2009 I believe, although even Ford themselves don't seem to be able to tell people exactly which builds have the older style chain and which have the crappier belt system.