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Ford Focus RS Headlight calibration error.


nazsky786
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Hi,

Got issue with my headlights not leveling both are pointing straight  to the ground.  

I've check with elmconfig and tried to calibrate on flat surface but get error codes.  

This is you put the module in prefacelift and get error code b2621 rear axle vehicle level sensor signal not plausible. 

Put the module into facelift and you get code b2618 front axle vehicle level sensor not plausible.  

This is the facelift focus but don't seem to want to work anymore. All that has changed is battery died and that why I gather it needs calibration but it won't do it.  Headlights all the way down.  

Module version is 3m51-13k031-ad.  Software version 08.11.2004.

Any help? 

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  • 2 months later...

Hey Naz,

Did you get this issue figured out yet? I've got the same issue, replaced the battery and then headlights wanted to see more of the floor 😔. ELMConfig gives the same result as what you put, I even tried a new sensor but get the same error. When I disconnect the wire it shows "circuit failure" so it's definitely getting power.

For now I have just manually adjusted them to the "I hope" correct level, and they do seem to want to automatically adjust when I first turn the lights on as you can see them move up a bit, then back down slightly, just refuses to complete the calibration bit. Same hardware and Software version according to ELMConfig.

Thanks.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,  yeah,  sorted it.

I'm not sure 100% how.

I lifted the car up and placed on axle stands then used elmconfig to configure it. It seem to have worked but headlights was facing to far down.  

So I then done calibration on flat ground after fixing the perfect place and done the calibration again.  It was this calibration that fixed it.  

The sensors themselves on mine were fine. Its just the car didn't want to calibrate for some reason before and messing with setting etc didn't help.  My thinking is the sensors just needed to know the beginning and ending of the suspension travel.  So jack car up off all 4 tyres and the find nice flat ground.  

Don't really have a exact fix, else I would have put it up on here.  

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Was the issue you had the same if you changed the software on the module to prefacelift and facelift? 

Try Forscan as well.  Thats gives more details on what to do.  

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  • 1 month later...

Hey,

So I went with your suggestion, kind of. I only have 2 jackstands so I just lifted the drivers side of the car up so both front and rear wheels were off the ground, tried to calibrate but still failed, same issue. It wasn't until I put the car back on the ground that it then went ahead and did its calibration. I did this with Forscan as its a nicer UI to work with. I may need to do it again though as at the time I didn't do any manual calibrations as it says, so I think they're off a bit again. I would say that is a confirm "Fix" for it, not tempted to take the battery out again to confirm it's not a fluke tho! 😂

I also had the same issue with switching from pre-facelift to facelift.

Might be that as you said, with the battery being disconnected the system needed to see the full travel before being happy with the sensor positions. 

I've read a few boards on here and it seems I'm doing something you've already done. I want to convert my 2 electric windows into full global with power mirrors, so just now need to find a cabin floor loom from a 09-10 that has the wiring (not easy to come by these days I've found!). Also tempted see about getting dual climate as well (as I have the dash loom), totally not likely to be worth the effort, and probably WAY too expensive to justify, but it should be fun... ha.

Thanks again

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Thanks for the reply.  

I had lifted the complete car,  which seemed to have fix it.  I think you do have to do it twice(calibartion) but car needs to be level and empty boot, only carrying things it normally holds. 

As for all 4 electric windows what I did was got a focus with all 4 electric windows. And just cut out the door module wiring.  And transferred it over.  Saying that the only reason I did this was the car I found turned out to not have curtain airbag wiring in correct place/ if at all.  

The dual zone is simple to install also get the parts install it is difficult.  You remove both front doors and there is a bold hidden you remove that from both side after you have removed the dash etc and the releases the crash bar system.  After that's move you can get to the heater box. 

You need space to get around the car.  As you need to get to ac pipes and coolant under bonnet.  So make sure you have the ac gas removed properly. 

 

 

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Oh and if you need the wiring just for door modules I can get it for you. But it will just be wiring for door modules. You will need to lay it down next to the original wiring.  So you end up with redundant wiring but door modules.  And added weight.  

 

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