ib5 reverse light switch

[wild_one]

My reversing lights and rear parking sensors have failed. Sometimes, when I drop into reverse there is a long continuous tone for about 5/6 secs but that's it. I'm going to change the reverse light switch. I've noticed that all the popular online parts places have two types listed, white plug and black plug, long thin or short stumpy. Can anyone help as to what switch should go in my mk2 2006 1.8tdci?

Many thanks

[south_bound]

Not sure if this will help but when I changed mine the replacement part had a shorter body than the original but a longer threaded section - this meant that it screwed in too far and blocked the mechanism so I had to unscrew it a few turns for it to work.  That was a few years ago and all has been fine since.  Photo attached showing the new and old ones - new on top I think.  This is for a Mk 2 1.6TDCi BTW.

[FatHead1979]

21 hours ago, wild_one said:

My reversing lights and rear parking sensors have failed. Sometimes, when I drop into reverse there is a long continuous tone for about 5/6 secs but that's it. I'm going to change the reverse light switch. I've noticed that all the popular online parts places have two types listed, white plug and black plug, long thin or short stumpy. Can anyone help as to what switch should go in my mk2 2006 1.8tdci?

Many thanks

I think the 1.8 TDCi box is the MTX75 not the IB5, the IB5 is fitted to the MK2 petrols and not the diesels.  Not sure if the reverse switch parts are the same between the 2 boxes.

[wild_one]

6 hours ago, 1979Damian said:

I think the 1.8 TDCi box is the MTX75 not the IB5, the IB5 is fitted to the MK2 petrols and not the diesels.  Not sure if the reverse switch parts are the same between the 2 boxes.

That's put the cat amongst the pigeons.

[FatHead1979]

4 minutes ago, wild_one said:

That's put the cat amongst the pigeons.

LOL, I didn't want you buying the wrong part as a result of the reference to the IB5 box in the title (assuming the 2 boxes have different switch parts).  Most of us on here have ordered the wrong part at least once and in some cases not realised until we've removed all the other parts and then you have that "Oh  moment" where you realise no matter which way you hold the part it isn't going to fit  (By "most of us on here" I obviously mean me) 

[wild_one]

Just now, 1979Damian said:

LOL, I just didn't want the Op buying the wrong part as a result of the reference to the IB5 box in the title (assuming the 2 boxes have different switch parts).  Most of us on here have ordered the wrong part at least once and in some cases not realised until all the other bits have been removed and then you have that "Oh  moment" where you realised no matter which way you hold the part it isn't going to fit  (By "most of us on here" I obviously mean me) 

The interesting thing is that you put the car reg into the ECP/GSF eBay whatever it comes up with two different types of switch?

[FatHead1979]

3 minutes ago, wild_one said:

The interesting thing is that you put the car reg into the ECP/GSF Ebay whatever it comes up with two different types of switch?

I've found https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/ to be far more reliable, just pop your VIN in and it even knows your build date.  It's especially handy when Ford have multiple variants of the same part and you're not sure which one is yours.

 

I had an issue with ECP where they insisted the lower arm they supplied was the right one (they only did this one type) but with my car being the saloon it turned out mine used the type they didn't stock.

[wild_one]

1 minute ago, 1979Damian said:

I've found https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/ to be far more reliable, just pop your VIN in and it even knows your build date.  It's especially handy when Ford have multiple variants of the same part and you're not sure which one is yours.

The Ford Etis site used to be good but they have put a stop on most of the info other than colour

[FatHead1979]

Just now, wild_one said:

The Ford Etis site used to be good but they have put a stop on most of the info other than colour

You need to register as IO, it's free but it rather irritatingly insists on a monthly password reset which can be a bit of a chore, it's handy for finding out your VIN if you don't have the V5 to hand or can't be bothered to brave the cold and check the car. 

[stef123]

My first step here would be to prove the switch is at fault, if so pull the switch to see what it looks like and take any part numbers if required to cross reference it. 

[wild_one]

Looks like it's MTX75 not ib5

I have lost my reverse lights, reverse sensors and rear wipe when reversing. Are all these functions fed through the switch in the box?

I'm guessing the long high pitch tone I hear when engaging reverse is the sensor detecting a system fault. I wonder if I could plug in my Forscan and diagnose it?

[FatHead1979]

5 minutes ago, wild_one said:

Looks like it's MTX75 not ib5

I have lost my reverse lights, reverse sensors and rear wipe when reversing. Are all these functions fed through the switch in the box?

I'm guessing the long high pitch tone I hear when engaging reverse is the sensor detecting a system fault. I wonder if I could plug in my Forscan and diagnose it?

It certainly shouldn't hurt, although the 1.8 TDCi doesn't seem to be able to tell (ECU wise) what forward gear it's in, it CAN tell when the reverse switch is activated.  If you check the PIDs in Forscan one of them is specifically for if reverse gear is engaged and I know it works (unless the switch is faulty) as I've checked it on mine in the past when some LED reverse lights stopped working reliably.

[wild_one]

Just now, 1979Damian said:

It certainly shouldn't hurt, although the 1.8 TDCi doesn't seem to be able to tell (ECU wise) what forward gear it's in, it CAN tell when the reverse switch is activated.  If you check the PIDs in Forscan one of them is specifically for if reverse gear is engaged and I know it works (unless the switch is faulty) as I've checked it on mine in the past when some LED reverse lights stopped working reliably.

Right. Because I am waiting to swap the engine mount and I was going to replace the reverse switch which is obviously in that location, at the same time, bearing in mind the work is duplicated for both jobs. For the cost of a switch, and while the engine mount is off I may as well just change it?

[FatHead1979]

18 minutes ago, wild_one said:

Right. Because I am waiting to swap the engine mount and I was going to replace the reverse switch which is obviously in that location, at the same time, bearing in mind the work is duplicated for both jobs. For the cost of a switch, and while the engine mount is off I may as well just change it?

Although I'm not usually a fan of replacing parts for the sake of it, if you've got the gearbox top mount to do and the switch is only a few quid then why not?  Or at least check it with Forscan (before doing the mount replacement) to check if it's reliably detecting when you put it in reverse and avoiding having to do the job twice.

[wild_one]

11 hours ago, 1979Damian said:

Although I'm not usually a fan of replacing parts for the sake of it, if you've got the gearbox top mount to do and the switch is only a few quid then why not?  Or at least check it with Forscan (before doing the mount replacement) to check if it's reliably detecting when you put it in reverse and avoiding having to do the job twice.

That's my thinking. But my issue is that when I drop into reverse gear I get a long continuous tone for about 5 secs which I'm assuming is the car telling me the sensors have malfunctioned?  So, if the switch powers up the sensors, shouldn't the sensor circuit be 'dead'?

[wild_one]

14 hours ago, 1979Damian said:

Although I'm not usually a fan of replacing parts for the sake of it, if you've got the gearbox top mount to do and the switch is only a few quid then why not?  Or at least check it with Forscan (before doing the mount replacement) to check if it's reliably detecting when you put it in reverse and avoiding having to do the job twice.

I just plugged in Forscan and confirmed that the reverse light switch is functioning? I understand the the switch is quite simple on/off so the circuit is either on/off. I guess the problem must be elsewhere?

[FatHead1979]

2 minutes ago, wild_one said:

I just plugged in Forscan and confirmed that the reverse light switch is functioning? I understand the the switch is quite simple on/off so the circuit is either on/off. I guess the problem must be elsewhere?

It would seem so, a bit of a shame as a faulty reverse switch would have been a nice easy/cheap fix.  Looks like it's a case of working backwards from the switch 

[wild_one]

1 hour ago, 1979Damian said:

It would seem so, a bit of a shame as a faulty reverse switch would have been a nice easy/cheap fix.  Looks like it's a case of working backwards from the switch 

Well, the reversing light is now working but not the sensors? After some googling it appears that you can touch the sensors while the warning tone is on to check for the 'dud' sensor. Apparently they pulse if they are working. I will have to wait for some assistance for that test?

[Russ]

On 1/17/2019 at 3:06 PM, wild_one said:

Well, the reversing light is now working but not the sensors? After some googling it appears that you can touch the sensors while the warning tone is on to check for the 'dud' sensor. Apparently they pulse if they are working. I will have to wait for some assistance for that test?

Just had the same problem on my titanium mk2 facelift before Xmas.......

Put the car into reverse gear with the ignition on but obviously NOT with the engine running. Put your ear next to each sensor and you should hear a noise coming from it. (My daughter said it’s reminiscent of a type of taser sound-she pinpointed the duff sensor on mine as I have tinnitus) 

When you find one that isn’t making the noise, that’s the duff one! I managed to get one off e-bay for £12.99 just before Xmas and it now mine works perfectly 👍🏼 (you’ll need to remove the old sensor to see what it looks like to get the correct replacement-easy to get out from under the bumper) I’ve attached a photo of my old one below 

[wild_one]

25 minutes ago, Russ said:

Just had the same problem on my titanium mk2 facelift before Xmas.......

Put the car into reverse gear with the ignition on but obviously NOT with the engine running. Put your ear next to each sensor and you should hear a noise coming from it. (My daughter said it’s reminiscent of a type of taser sound-she pinpointed the duff sensor on mine as I have tinnitus) 

When you find one that isn’t making the noise, that’s the duff one! I managed to get one off e-bay for £11.99 just before Xmas and it now mine works perfectly 👍🏼 (you’ll need to remove the old sensor to see what it looks like to get the correct replacement-easy to get out from under the bumper) I’ve attached a photo of my old one below 

Thanks, I will have a go myself tomorrow

[wild_one]

I did manage to find a comprehensive guide to diagnosing the rear parking sensor system on the Ford online workshop manual site. But obviously they assume you have dealer level diagnostics to access the parking module fault codes. Still useful though.

After a closer examination on my car, and after doing the "listen for the sound of popping candy test" I have one dud sensor. I also noticed that of the remaining three sensors one is good and loud, the other two are about half the volume. So I may well be revisiting this problem in the future.

[wild_one]

15 hours ago, Russ said:

Just had the same problem on my titanium mk2 facelift before Xmas.......

Put the car into reverse gear with the ignition on but obviously NOT with the engine running. Put your ear next to each sensor and you should hear a noise coming from it. (My daughter said it’s reminiscent of a type of taser sound-she pinpointed the duff sensor on mine as I have tinnitus) 

When you find one that isn’t making the noise, that’s the duff one! I managed to get one off e-bay for £11.99 just before Xmas and it now mine works perfectly 👍🏼 (you’ll need to remove the old sensor to see what it looks like to get the correct replacement-easy to get out from under the bumper) I’ve attached a photo of my old one below 

Just out of interest did you match up the part numbers? Because there are loads that are the same type, but only one matches part number and that is listed under a Jaguar for £40! It would probably be more cost effective for me to install an aftermarket kit, especially as the wiring is already in place?

[Russ]

29 minutes ago, wild_one said:

Just out of interest did you match up the part numbers? Because there are loads that are the same type, but only one matches part number and that is listed under a Jaguar for £40! It would probably be more cost effective for me to install an aftermarket kit, especially as the wiring is already in place?

I looked at numbers on the original part (in the photo) and couldn’t figure how to match them up with any I saw on eBay so thought “£12.99 isn’t going to break the bank” so made sure the one I chose had the pins in the same position, just bought it thinking if it didn’t work I’d send it back! If you look at my post here -> 

 

you'll find pictures of my sensor and a link to the eBay page I bought mine from.

[wild_one]

4 hours ago, Russ said:

I looked at numbers on the original part (in the photo) and couldn’t figure how to match them up with any I saw on eBay so thought “£12.99 isn’t going to break the bank” so made sure the one I chose had the pins in the same position, just bought it thinking if it didn’t work I’d send it back! If you look at my post here -> 

 

you'll find pictures of my sensor and a link to the eBay page I bought mine from.

Ford are asking £75 each for the sensors, so even £40 seems a bargain?

I think I might just take a chance and buy one that looks close, although I should probably check the wiring to make sure I'm not replacing a perfectly good sensor because of a broken wire?

[Russ]

2 hours ago, wild_one said:

Ford are asking £75 each for the sensors, so even £40 seems a bargain?

I think I might just take a chance and buy one that looks close, although I should probably check the wiring to make sure I'm not replacing a perfectly good sensor because of a broken wire?

(Switch two sensors around)

Switch the position of the sensor not making any noise with another then put the car into reverse (ignition on but not started) and listen to the sensors to see if the one originally not making the noise is still silent.