cycleguy Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 Hi there Guys first post here so go easy on me my Daughter has a 2012 MK3 diesel focus that is quite new to her (about 3 months) now I dont know if this problem is due to the change in the weather this last month as the car was no problem before the change. The car does not have excessive miles on it 70,000 but it will loose power and go into limp mode I believe going by my Daughters discription of what is happening this is while in top gear on motorways normally but if she turns the car off for a short while it goes back to normal. This Morning this has happened 4 times it was happerning with the car well up to temperature she would notice the temp gauge going from half way to just a quarter. so 3 days ago I fitted a new temperature sender as I thought the ecu was adding more fuel and making it run rich which was causing the problem. she filled the tank up last night to full and I'm not sure if this can cause a problem as it does tend to play up after she has filled up the fuel but she dont tend to run the car very low so I dont think it would have picked up dirt in the tank. i have also checked the MAF sensor which was not very dirty or gummed up in anyway.So I'm looking for suggestions of where to start looking as with my OBD reader no faults showing also on a AA Mans reader also no codes. and as she drives with her 2 year old every day on the motorway she is worried it will put her in a little trouble due to roadworks and no hard shoulder. Sorry about the long first post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_Tango Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 New fuel filter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pragmatix Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 Could be cam sensor, the code will clear when the ignition is off, code needs reading once its happened and theignition is still on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cycleguy Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 1 hour ago, pragmatix said: Could be cam sensor, the code will clear when the ignition is off, code needs reading once its happened and theignition is still on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cycleguy Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 1 hour ago, pragmatix said: Could be cam sensor, the code will clear when the ignition is off, code needs reading once its happened and theignition is still on. Will that not store the code in historic codes ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cycleguy Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 1 hour ago, Ryan_Tango said: New fuel filter I have a new filter kit to go on this weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sucofdrof Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 +1 for the fuel filter, I purchased one of these when I changed mine as they can be a bugger to get started again if not fully primed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cycleguy Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 what is the best method with the filter chang fill new filter before fitting ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pragmatix Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 1 hour ago, cycleguy said: Will that not store the code in historic codes ? No it doesnt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sucofdrof Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 I think I followed this guide when I did mine but there are a few other guides knocking about on YouTube https://youtu.be/vN9ps1GiUGs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isetta Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 when my previous fiesta 1.6tdci started playing up it turned out to be the fuel filter. Replaced it and it was fine. But it was very very very difficult to get it running after I got air in the pipes when changing the filter. Strangely mine would go into limp mode when turning left 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cycleguy Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 I hope I have the right filtter it is ford part number EN: AV6Q9D410BA can anyone confirm this is the right filter ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 12 minutes ago, cycleguy said: I hope I have the right filtter it is ford part number EN: AV6Q9D410BA can anyone confirm this is the right filter ? Yes I'm pretty sure that is the right filter. My advice for a smooth fuel filter change after having a nightmare one & a good one is this in a nutshell:- Don't leave the lines open to air for ages, be quick. Fit the new filter then bleed from the outlet, reconnect the outlet hose. Start and rev her straight away to get the fuel through quickly before she has a chance to cut out. My first fuel filter change took me 36 hours (lol) and ended with a tow start. My second filter change, 10 minutes 😄 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cycleguy Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 this is the sevice kit that I purchased could you guys take a look at the filter there is a good picture of it eBay item number: eBay item number 263847654337 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 4 minutes ago, cycleguy said: this is the sevice kit that I purchased could you guys take a look at the filter there is a good picture of it eBay item number: Ebay item number 263847654337 Yes that's it. Do you get a sump plug washer with that kit? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 4 minutes ago, cycleguy said: this is the sevice kit that I purchased could you guys take a look at the filter there is a good picture of it eBay item number: Ebay item number 263847654337 Yes, that's the correct kit for a 2012 1.6 TDCi. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cycleguy Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 1 hour ago, Albert27 said: Yes that's it. Do you get a sump plug washer with that kit? Got the new sump plug but i have hot seen the new washer but sunday is going to be changing the deisel filter and having a good root about looking for split hoses and any multi plug damaged to cables and cleaning all sensor plugs and spraying with dilectric spray as there is no guarantee the filter will fix the issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albert27 Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 58 minutes ago, cycleguy said: Got the new sump plug but i have hot seen the new washer but sunday is going to be changing the deisel filter and having a good root about looking for split hoses and any multi plug damaged to cables and cleaning all sensor plugs and spraying with dilectric spray as there is no guarantee the filter will fix the issue If it doesn't have one then this is the one you need (just make sure you use the discount code).....https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Ford_Focus_1.6_2012/p/car-parts/engine-parts1/engine-parts/sump-pans-and-sump-plug/?333590040&1&a3c09ba3b514e10210d23219f180c6727088ec9a&000567 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robrobert Posted January 26, 2019 Share Posted January 26, 2019 Hi, im having exactly the same problem with my focus. 100k on the clock. Lacks acceleration after long run as above and simply fixes itself by turning the engine off and on again. Only needs to be off for like 2 seconds. Doesn’t light up engine management light unless it’s been on a really long run say 90 mins plus. Even after this though turning the engine off and on again sorts it and the Light will disappear a couple of days later. Would love to know what it is. Never done the fuel filter on mine either! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdci-Peter Posted January 26, 2019 Share Posted January 26, 2019 1 hour ago, Robrobert said: Doesn’t light up engine management light unless it’s been on a really long run say 90 mins plus. Even after this though turning the engine off and on again sorts it and the Light will disappear a couple of days later. Getting the EML (light) on is a bonus, not a problem! The problem is whatever is making the EML come on. If the light comes on there will be a code (DTC) that could give a valuable clue as the the cause. A standard OBD2 reader may be able to read the code, but there a lot of codes that are non-standard, and then you would need a Ford specific system like Forscan to read them. But Forscan only costs about £16 for the adapter if you have access to a Windows laptop, a little more if you can use iOS or Android Apps. A lot less than one trip to a dealer for diagnostics! However changing the fuel filter is a good idea anyway. It can cause quite a lot of problems. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cycleguy Posted January 27, 2019 Author Share Posted January 27, 2019 slight update I have started today by looking for anything else that may be flaging up the engine malfunction message that gets displayed when the problem occurs looking at electrical connections and any damaged wiring while all the wiring looks good with no flakey connections. I sal this little electrical unit on the side of the batery box that has 2 12mm pipes attacthed I dont have a clue what this may be but just by looking I would say its some type of switch anyone know what this part is and its function ? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdci-Peter Posted January 27, 2019 Share Posted January 27, 2019 22 minutes ago, cycleguy said: I sal this little electrical unit on the side of the batery box that has 2 12mm pipes attacthed I dont have a clue what this may be DP Sensor for the DPF. The two hoses should go to the DPF. It senses when the DPF is getting blocked, so plays a very important role in the DPF regen system. Those hoses are prone to problems, especially near the DPF end where they get hot. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-1-6-2-0-2-2-TDCI-D-DPF-DIFFERENTIAL-PRESSURE-SENSOR-C-MAX-S-MAX-KUGA-VOLVO/251784054657?hash=item3a9f7fc781:g:98MAAOSw18Jb1z~N 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cycleguy Posted January 27, 2019 Author Share Posted January 27, 2019 8 minutes ago, Tdci-Peter said: DP Sensor for the DPF. The two hoses should go to the DPF. It senses when the DPF is getting blocked, so plays a very important role in the DPF regen system. Those hoses are prone to problems, especially near the DPF end where they get hot. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-1-6-2-0-2-2-TDCI-D-DPF-DIFFERENTIAL-PRESSURE-SENSOR-C-MAX-S-MAX-KUGA-VOLVO/251784054657?hash=item3a9f7fc781:g:98MAAOSw18Jb1z~N What are the problems they suffer from near to the DPF Peter ? as I have just ahd a look at that end of the pipies and the look ok do they get blocked ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdci-Peter Posted January 27, 2019 Share Posted January 27, 2019 1 hour ago, cycleguy said: What are the problems they suffer from near to the DPF It is usually splitting or breaking due to going brittle. I have not heard of blockage, though it is possible at the engine end of the DPF, from the soot. Usually you will start getting DPF error codes like Regeneration duration too long, or Soot load too high, if there are problems here. The ECU does regular DPF regen cycles on just about all DPF fitted cars, there may be small but noticeable effects on driving, and certainly on engine temperature during a regen. Also the ECU will add more fuel to heat up the DPF. So some care is needed to separate normal symptoms of regen from a fault. A significant drop in power would not be a normal symptom of a regen. If that is happening regularly, the car ought either to go to a good garage for checks, or use a really good, Ford specific diagnostic system like Forscan to do checks yourself, though the regen system is not what you call "simple"! If the car is not doing regens, then the DPF will clog with soot to the point where it can not be simply regenerated on the car, and might have to be removed for cleaning or even replaced. The system on the Mk3 cars is much better than on the Mk2 cars, it uses a catalytic DPF, not the unreliable Eoylis additive type, so when reading any reports off the internet, ensure they are relevant for the Mk3. I am not saying your symptoms stack up with DPF problems, there will usually be indication (EML) on the dash if it is DPF, but is just something to consider. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cycleguy Posted January 27, 2019 Author Share Posted January 27, 2019 6 minutes ago, Tdci-Peter said: It is usually splitting or breaking due to going brittle. I have not heard of blockage, though it is possible at the engine end of the DPF, from the soot. Usually you will start getting DPF error codes like Regeneration duration too long, or Soot load too high, if there are problems here. The ECU does regular DPF regen cycles on just about all DPF fitted cars, there may be small but noticeable effects on driving, and certainly on engine temperature during a regen. Also the ECU will add more fuel to heat up the DPF. So some care is needed to separate normal symptoms of regen from a fault. A significant drop in power would not be a normal symptom of a regen. If that is happening regularly, the car ought either to go to a good garage for checks, or use a really good, Ford specific diagnostic system like Forscan to do checks yourself, though the regen system is not what you call "simple"! If the car is not doing regens, then the DPF will clog with soot to the point where it can not be simply regenerated on the car, and might have to be removed for cleaning or even replaced. The system on the Mk3 cars is much better than on the Mk2 cars, it uses a catalytic DPF, not the unreliable Eoylis additive type, so when reading any reports off the internet, ensure they are relevant for the Mk3. I am not saying your symptoms stack up with DPF problems, there will usually be indication (EML) on the dash if it is DPF, but is just something to consider. Thanks for your detailed reply Peter I have been looking and testing at the wiring that is all to do with the DPF sensor and what I have found is that I'm not getting a signal reading on the DPF sensor switch so I have disconnected the sender thats on the left side of the DPF and I only get a Ohms reading of about 1485 when the tester is on the 2000 scale which I believe is not right ? would you know off hand what inpedance reading that sensor should be ? and just to let you know all the time I have no codes stored Thanks For your input Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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