Hardwired Dash cam, not turning off

[addiosamigo]

I've just wired my Nextbase  412GW dashcam using the hardwire kit.

Piggybacked into fuse 78 which is rear wiper, as suggested in the searches I've done.

Now when I turn off the ignition the camera is still getting power, I can see the charging icon even with the ignition off. 

When I turn on the ignition the rear wiper works, but I'm worried I've either wired it wrong (wrong way round in the fuse box?) Or the fuse is different on my car. I checked the manual and it confirms that it's rear wiper. 

I'm worried I'll drain the battery! Can anyone help? 

Thanks as always! 

[WES180]

From a quick check on the mk2.5 (thats the model on your profile as you didnt state in your post) there are a few switched live suggestions that you could try - 

 

 

[Phil21185]

Most hardwire kits have battery monitoring built in so when it senses a low voltage it cuts off. 

This was the case for my 3rd party kit but in the end I just found an ignition live fuse. It means I don't get parked car monitoring, but at least I know I'll be able to start it up when I come back to it!

edit: didn't read your post properly - you're already in an ignition live fuse?

[btmaldon]

Pretty sure its 85 you should piggy back with. I'm sure that's the one I connected mine to. Only powers up when the ignition is on.

[addiosamigo]

47 minutes ago, WES180 said:

From a quick check on the mk2.5 (thats the model on your profile as you didnt state in your post) there are a few switched live suggestions that you could try - 

 

 

It's a MK2, sorry should of put that in my original post

[addiosamigo]

46 minutes ago, Phil21185 said:

Most hardwire kits have battery monitoring built in so when it senses a low voltage it cuts off. 

This was the case for my 3rd party kit but in the end I just found an ignition live fuse. It means I don't get parked car monitoring, but at least I know I'll be able to start it up when I come back to it!

edit: didn't read your post properly - you're already in an ignition live fuse?

Well I think I am, 78, rear wiper

[Jonro2009]

Which hardwire kit are you using? 

Do you have a multimeter that you can check your fuse with? 

[WES180]

Mk2 F70 or F84 according to this thread, the guy had the same problem as you.

 

[addiosamigo]

5 hours ago, WES180 said:

Mk2 F70 or F84 according to this thread, the guy had the same problem as you.

 

awesome! I'll check that tonight thanks!

[Haydn24]

I'm thinking of buying a new dashcam for my Fiesta, but to get it hardwired this time. Was thinking of getting Halfords to fit it,but after looking at the reviews it's probably put me off! Is it easy to do it myself?

[WES180]

1 hour ago, Haydn24 said:

I'm thinking of buying a new dashcam for my Fiesta, but to get it hardwired this time. Was thinking of getting Halfords to fit it,but after looking at the reviews it's probably put me off! Is it easy to do it myself?

Yes, just buy the relevant hardwire kit with the piggy back fuse tap. Have a search on here as loads of members have fitted them now.

[Jonro2009]

2 hours ago, Haydn24 said:

I'm thinking of buying a new dashcam for my Fiesta, but to get it hardwired this time. Was thinking of getting Halfords to fit it,but after looking at the reviews it's probably put me off! Is it easy to do it myself?

Are you getting front and rear or just front? 

If you are just getting a front camera then you will be fine for Halfords to do it, I'm not their number 1 fan but they do that many now that I would imagine they won't balls it up.

My advice would be to know where you want the cam positioned, which way you want the wires routed and which fuse you want them to use. 

If you are confident enough to do it yourself then go for it as it is very very easy but if not then Halfords will be fine 

[Haydn24]

20 minutes ago, Jonro2009 said:

Are you getting front and rear or just front? 

If you are just getting a front camera then you will be fine for Halfords to do it, I'm not their number 1 fan but they do that many now that I would imagine they won't balls it up.

My advice would be to know where you want the cam positioned, which way you want the wires routed and which fuse you want them to use. 

If you are confident enough to do it yourself then go for it as it is very very easy but if not then Halfords will be fine 

Just a front facing which would hopefully fit mostly behind the mirror. Will have a look at some videos when i get back to see if I think I'm capable of it!

[addiosamigo]

2 hours ago, Haydn24 said:

Just a front facing which would hopefully fit mostly behind the mirror. Will have a look at some videos when i get back to see if I think I'm capable of it!

It is really easy, the hard wire kit that you can buy just piggy backs into an existing fuse. If Nextbase the fuse they supply goes in the top and your existing fuse below it. 

That then plugs into the fuse box. You then have to find a bolt which is connected to a metal bit of the car to fix the ground wire. 

It's then just a case of feeding the wire through the weathershilding rubber, up to the headlining which again you can just push in, you can't see mine at all. 

Need any help or advice give me a shout! 

[Haydn24]

1 hour ago, addiosamigo said:

It is really easy, the hard wire kit that you can buy just piggy backs into an existing fuse. If Nextbase the fuse they supply goes in the top and your existing fuse below it. 

That then plugs into the fuse box. You then have to find a bolt which is connected to a metal bit of the car to fix the ground wire. 

It's then just a case of feeding the wire through the weathershilding rubber, up to the headlining which again you can just push in, you can't see mine at all. 

Need any help or advice give me a shout! 

All sounds so easy! I'd just be worried about breaking some of the trim when putting the wire behind it, or something silly like that

[Jonro2009]

2 hours ago, Haydn24 said:

All sounds so easy! I'd just be worried about breaking some of the trim when putting the wire behind it, or something silly like that

It really is very simple, and the chance of you damaging any trim is low. You won’t have to remove any trim at all, it’s just a case of ‘poking’ the wires out of sight. 

Start your job at the camera, not at the fuse box. Run the power cable from the cam along the headliner down the ‘A’ pillar and to te fusebox, that way any excess can be discreetly and safely tucked under the dash. Using a trim removal tool gently push the wire above the headliner and behind the ‘A’ pillar trim. When coming down the ‘A’ pillar run the wire down the edge against the door not the windscreen, it makes the job easier at the glove box area. You will be able to seat the wire in the gap between the rubber seal and the ‘A’ pillar quite easily and without stripping anything back.

you will need to know what type of fuses your car isn’t using, mini or micro or standard as you change the different fuse taps. Remove the fuse you are sharing the circuit with and place that fuse in the slot closest to the blades on the tap, use a 2A fuse in the other slot, this will protect the dashcam. 5A is the highest I would recommend to protect the cam. Both slots must have a fuse in them for the circuit to the dashcam to be complete, if the lower slot is empty then I think won’t work. For clarity, the slot that protects the dashcam is the one with the red wire coming out of it and you should make sure the fuse tap is in the correct orientation (see diagram) 

you will need a multimeter or one of those screwdrivers with a bulb in the handle and a grounding wire (an auto version for 12v not a domestic one) to check the fuse you are using is the correct type ie ACC or Bat+ depending on wether you plan to use parking mode or not. 

As @addiosamigo says, any questions just ask. It’s not a difficult job at all

 

[addiosamigo]

On 1/28/2019 at 11:47 PM, Jonro2009 said:

It really is very simple, and the chance of you damaging any trim is low. You won’t have to remove any trim at all, it’s just a case of ‘poking’ the wires out of sight. 

Start your job at the camera, not at the fuse box. Run the power cable from the cam along the headliner down the ‘A’ pillar and to te fusebox, that way any excess can be discreetly and safely tucked under the dash. Using a trim removal tool gently push the wire above the headliner and behind the ‘A’ pillar trim. When coming down the ‘A’ pillar run the wire down the edge against the door not the windscreen, it makes the job easier at the glove box area. You will be able to seat the wire in the gap between the rubber seal and the ‘A’ pillar quite easily and without stripping anything back.

you will need to know what type of fuses your car isn’t using, mini or micro or standard as you change the different fuse taps. Remove the fuse you are sharing the circuit with and place that fuse in the slot closest to the blades on the tap, use a 2A fuse in the other slot, this will protect the Dashcam. 5A is the highest I would recommend to protect the cam. Both slots must have a fuse in them for the circuit to the Dashcam to be complete, if the lower slot is empty then I think won’t work. For clarity, the slot that protects the Dashcam is the one with the red wire coming out of it and you should make sure the fuse tap is in the correct orientation (see diagram) 

you will need a multimeter or one of those screwdrivers with a bulb in the handle and a grounding wire (an auto version for 12v not a domestic one) to check the fuse you are using is the correct type ie ACC or Bat+ depending on wether you plan to use parking mode or not. 

As @addiosamigo says, any questions just ask. It’s not a difficult job at all

 

@Jonro2009 how do I know which is the right way to plug in? If you are facing the fusebox, I have the wire end pointing towards the center console of the car. I didn't know there was a right way! 

[Jonro2009]

2 hours ago, addiosamigo said:

@Jonro2009 how do I know which is the right way to plug in? If you are facing the fusebox, I have the wire end pointing towards the center console of the car. I didn't know there was a right way! 

If you put the fuse tap in the wrong way then the circuit won’t be protected by the fuse, so you want to make sure you get it right.

do you have a multimeter or a 12v auto screwdriver with bulb in it and wire on the end of it? You need to check the fuse socket on the fuse board.

first earth the tester you are using and then insert the other wire/screwdriver blade into one side of the socket, there is a gripper for each blade of the fuse in the socket. If the meter reads 12-13V or the light illuminates in the screwdriver then that is the live side and you insert the tap with the wire on the opposite side.

Hope that makes sense, I’m not great at explaining things. 

 

THIS VIDEO DOES A BETTER JOB

[mjt]

11 hours ago, Jonro2009 said:

If you put the fuse tap in the wrong way then the circuit won’t be protected by the fuse

Not so, if it's the wrong way round the feed to the cam will actually be going through both fuses.

[mrmetallica]

i used a power monitor thingy came out folowing day to a flat battery so took it off and wired to a switched live