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A Dilemma.!!


Liam40
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My Focus won’t start, a low battery problem I suspect as I’ve not used it for a while and I’ve not started it for a while too, I should’ve done in the cold damp weather we’ve had.

Now I’m in two minds. After posting a thread on ‘General Chat’ about jumpstarting a modern car with jumpleads. I’m not too sure I want to go down that route as I’ve got the car on PCP and I don’t want to jeopardise the 3 year warranty I took out with the car or jeopardise the PCP agreement if something went wrong choosing this path.

The two things in mind I have are:

1) When I took out the PCP finance agreement, I also did 36 months SMC warranty and I took out Allen Assist. With Allen Assist I am entitled to several services two being ‘Roadside Assistance and Breakdown Recovery’ and ‘Home Assist’. In one of the ‘Important Notes’ in my Warranty Handbook, it mentions “if details of my Allen Assist cover does not reach the Administrator by the time assistance is required, they will ask me to provide immediate payment for the services I required. When I have received the payment receipt and they then have details of my Allen Assist cover, I will be able to claim a reimbursement from the administrator”. 

If I call them out, am I going to be charged if any work needs carry out, or will it be paid for by my cover.? How much will I get charged for the call out.?

Has anyone had an Allen Assist cover on their car.?

2) I have RAC cover, so know where I stand with them. If the battery is completely dead, (which I don’t think it is as all the displays/dashboard and touchscreen light up), I know I’ll have to pay RAC for a new battery.

If I call them out, will it jeopardise my SMC 36 months warranty and Allen Assist cover. Will it jeopardise my PCP finance agreement.?

Which path would you choose.?

Liam

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So would i

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If you call the RAC out they'll probably try to jump start it anyway...  But they won't take any responsibility for frying any electronics.  If they do want to fit a battery it'll be expensive being an EFB type for the stop start.

The best option really is just to charge it yourself.  battery chargers aren't expensive.  

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5 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

If you call the RAC out they'll probably try to jump start it anyway...  But they won't take any responsibility for frying any electronics.  If they do want to fit a battery it'll be expensive being an EFB type for the stop start.

The best option really is just to charge it yourself.  Battery chargers aren't expensive.  

Right ok. Thank you Tom for this. 

So I’m assuming it’s safe to take the battery out and charge it indoors like the old fashion way. As the only thing, it’s not parked in a garage, it will be soon so would be easier then. What about battery boosters, someone mentioned them before.

It would be easier to of made sure I started her up frequently whilst she was sleeping 😂😂

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is the battery not coverd under the 3yr warranty from ford ?

i would just invest in a new batt, as you`ll get a charger charge the current batt up only to find you`ll have the same problem again if the batt in the car is no good.

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it probably does not need a new battery, we don't for sure, but it's unlikely.

isn't a battery booster exactly the same as jump starting it?  what would be the difference? If you jump start it, you are connecting another battery to it. If you use a booster you are connecting another battery to it, albeit a smaller one.

I am reading everywhere that modern cars should not be jump started due to the voltage spike when connecting the jump leads.   But in any car where you replace the battery isn't there the same voltage spike potentional when you connect the new battery to the car?  I am not saying there is no threat to the car's electrics but what is the difference? can someone explain it fully.

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7 minutes ago, isetta said:

it probably does not need a new battery, we don't for sure, but it's unlikely.

isn't a battery booster exactly the same as jump starting it?  what would be the difference? If you jump start it, you are connecting another battery to it. If you use a booster you are connecting another battery to it, albeit a smaller one.

I am reading everywhere that modern cars should not be jump started due to the voltage spike when connecting the jump leads.   But in any car where you replace the battery isn't there the same voltage spike potentional when you connect the new battery to the car?  I am not saying there is no threat to the car's electrics but what is the difference? can someone explain it fully.

Interesting point Isetta.! I’d like to know too, not being electronic and mechanical minded. 

Liam.

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battery boosters are the same as jump starts so again I wouldn't recommend it.

Yes you can take the battery inside and charge if you like.  Or leave it in situ...as long as you connect the charger before switching the mains on it shouldn't cause any problems.  If you take the battery off to charge it, you will need to reset the one touch windows, audio settings and the battery monitoring system.

 

There are two main problems with jumping modern cars.  The first is the smart charge/variable charge system fitted to most now - they sense a very low battery charge and a cold battery so asks the alternator to provide maximum charge the moment you switch the engine on, this causes a huge voltage spike which can affect both cars.

The other issue is the sensitive electronics that cars never used to have.  Some are very sensitive to even minor voltage spikes and can be burnt out easily.  The spike happens so quickly that the fuses don't blow to protect them.

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I think Tom's hit the nail on the head. It's best not to jump start but there's no reason why you can't charge the battery on the car as long as you don't try to start the engine. In fact my CK charger guide explicitly says you can charge in situ but to connect the negative cable to a chassis earth rather than to the battery. I can't quite see what difference that makes to be honest, there's not going to be a significant voltage drop across the battery earth strap at the current the charger puts out.

I would definitely try charging before investing in another battery.

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2 hours ago, mjt said:

In fact my CK charger guide explicitly says you can charge in situ but to connect the negative cable to a chassis earth rather than to the battery. I can't quite see what difference that makes to be honest, there's not going to be a significant voltage drop across the battery earth strap at the current the charger puts out.

I think the reason for not connecting directly to the battery is the gas produced during charging.  The spark on removal could cause a fireball effect, whereas the chassis earth point should be far enough away not to cause an issue.  I was always told to blow across a battery before disconnecting leads as well.

 

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I agree that one should always be careful about sparks around a battery but if the charger is turned off before disconnecting, as it should be, there shouldn't be any spark. There's more chance of a spark when disconnecting the battery from the car because the modern electronics are always powered so it's probably safer to charge in situ.

Actually, since the gas produced is Hydrogen one would have thought, being lighter than air, it shouldn't hang around the top of the battery.

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