n1md4 Posted April 23, 2019 Share Posted April 23, 2019 I need to change my brake shoes on a Mk6 Fiesta, but can not get the drum off. I've removed the bearing nut and the drum will rock back and forward. I think what has happened is that the shoes have worn a groove into the drums and the shoes are not able to get off the lip. Is there a way to dial-back the shoes, I'm hoping then the drum will come right off. I can see a rubber cap on the back-plate of the assembly, but can't see what might be adjustable. I was expecting to see some a toothed wheel that could be turned with the blade of a screwdriver. Any ideas, please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezwez Posted April 23, 2019 Share Posted April 23, 2019 have you backed the hand brake off tell you how to in the manual 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n1md4 Posted April 23, 2019 Author Share Posted April 23, 2019 I've not, but the handbrake is shot too, it's very loose, so I can't imagine there's much on there, worth a go. So there's nothing to wind the shoes in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezwez Posted April 23, 2019 Share Posted April 23, 2019 look inside the holes at the backplate iam sure you can wind it back from there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n1md4 Posted April 23, 2019 Author Share Posted April 23, 2019 The only hole I see is circular on the back of the drum assembly and angled towards the rear of the car. Is there another way to access the winder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezwez Posted April 23, 2019 Share Posted April 23, 2019 try hitting the drum with a big hammer this sometime loosen them hit them all round the drum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n1md4 Posted April 23, 2019 Author Share Posted April 23, 2019 The drum is loose, and I'd be concerned about knackering the bearing inside the drum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted April 23, 2019 Share Posted April 23, 2019 I don't think you can back the shoes off on these, usually it's done from the front through a wheel bolt hole...but with Fords having wheel studs there's obviously no hole. I think the hole you can see at the back is at the bottom rear? That's a second hole for the handbrake cable as the backplates are the same for both sides to keep costs down. Tapping the sides of the drum to knock the shoes away can help, but I do only mean a tap so you don't distort the drum. Chances are the lip will be too big though, and you'll need some brute force to get it off. Using a puller ensures the bearing is pulled square to avoid damage. You can do it by wedging screwdrivers and chisels around the edge of the drum to lever it off but this often does damage the bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n1md4 Posted April 23, 2019 Author Share Posted April 23, 2019 Can you leave the wheel on the studs and use it as leverage or is that a nasty idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isetta Posted April 23, 2019 Share Posted April 23, 2019 I had a mk6.5 (2007) and on that car you should not be touching the centre bearing nut to get the combined hub/drum off. I do not know if mk6 is same in that respect. The mk6.5 drum removal is designed so you undo 4 bolts on back of brake plate (removing abs sensor first) and then remove the stub axle/drum/hub all as one lump. No danger of messing up bearings then. I have done it and it seems a good design. As I say I don't know if mk6 is like that. Anyway, the last reply mentions reattaching the wheel so you have more pull. That is what I would do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cragrat Posted April 23, 2019 Share Posted April 23, 2019 As above. Don't touch the bearing. Remove the abs sensor, then the 4 bolts that go through the back plate. You may still have some jiggling about to get the drum off but at least you don't have to deal with the bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n1md4 Posted April 23, 2019 Author Share Posted April 23, 2019 Gotcha, thanks for the replies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted April 23, 2019 Share Posted April 23, 2019 The proper way is to remove those 4 bolts but you'll find most garages don't as they rust and sieze... It also won't help the issue of the shoes holiding the drum, now you've disturbed the bearing and the hub nut you might as well carry on that way imo. Putting the wheel on for extra leverage will definitely wreck the bearing as you won't pull it squarely. A hub puller is the safest way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tappet Posted April 24, 2019 Share Posted April 24, 2019 On my 7.5 fiesta the rear drums are held on by two screws just remove screws and drum comes off, or is mine an update from earlier versions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isetta Posted April 24, 2019 Share Posted April 24, 2019 mk7.5 is different (and much easier). The older ones have a combined hub/drum - one big lump of metal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz54 Posted February 21, 2020 Share Posted February 21, 2020 I just undo the hub nut. Then I torque it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shalston Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 Hi old thread I know but having just spent 5 days on these drum brakes on my dads 2003 fiesta thought I'd chip in, what a can of worms.. The wheels sounded rough/whirring and the braking wasn't good. We first had to heat gun the wheel studs as they weren't shifting, then the drum was glued on with the rust lip as you've said. We *eventually* writhed the drums off both sides but shattered the bearings (the 4 nuts on the backs of the hub are mounds of mushy rust). The shoes were nearly worn through, the pins and clips holding the shoes were rusted and or sheared and the whole assembly was basically being held together with corrosion! Also one of the adjusters is missing the brass pin but that bites the cogged wheel. New shoes and new bearings (had to be pressed out and new ones in at a garage) and the brakes are worse than ever! Apart from taking them apart and manually adjusting the adjusters which sounds like hell right now is there anything else can be done?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulkp Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 Have you checked handbrake cable adjustment ? If this is incorrect, then the automatic adjusters might not function correctly (Haynes 4170 Ch9, Section 19) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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