bashbarnard Posted May 11, 2020 Author Share Posted May 11, 2020 Pulled the old clutch out to check against the new one. Part numbers match. Which is strange as the clutch is meant to 220mm and you can see it's clearly not. I was going to put the new clutch in. But the old is essentially brand new!! Must've been done just before I got it. This is bad news. It means the OEM clutch will not hold the torque of a gtd1244vz. So I ordered a clutch off CG Motorsport that's the same spec as the one I had on the 306 I had. As they run the same size clutch and the thing held way more power than what this thing had. So it should be fine. A few photos for comparison. Look how new the clutch is. Also that was my old 306 clutch. Yes I ran unsprung. I went on the advice of a few old friends who have run these clutch's a lot. So yeah. I've got a clutch on order now. It'll be about a week. Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zain611 Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 How'd you say the difficulty was for taking the gearbox out? Just wondering if ever I need to change the clutch on mine. Clutch I think might of been changed a year before I bought the car as it still grips well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashbarnard Posted May 14, 2020 Author Share Posted May 14, 2020 How'd you say the difficulty was for taking the gearbox out? Just wondering if ever I need to change the clutch on mine. Clutch I think might of been changed a year before I bought the car as it still grips well. Well it's not a hard job with the right tools. It's a HEAVY job alone though. I usually lift it in and out with someone but due to what's going on currently had to do it by myself. Which is annoying as I had to lift it back in and bolt up to pack tools away and wait for the paddle to arrive. If you're mechanically minded I'd say a day's work easy. Took me just over two hours to get out but I've been a tech almost 14 years now. Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zain611 Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 30 minutes ago, bashbarnard said: Well it's not a hard job with the right tools. It's a HEAVY job alone though. I usually lift it in and out with someone but due to what's going on currently had to do it by myself. Which is annoying as I had to lift it back in and bolt up to pack tools away and wait for the paddle to arrive. If you're mechanically minded I'd say a day's work easy. Took me just over two hours to get out but I've been a tech almost 14 years now. Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk That's good. Yeah a gearbox removal is better with an extra person. My dad took the gearbox out of a little Citroën c1 and he needed me to jack up the engine and gearbox whilst was holding it in place when we changed the clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashbarnard Posted May 14, 2020 Author Share Posted May 14, 2020 That's good. Yeah a gearbox removal is better with an extra person. My dad took the gearbox out of a little Citroën c1 and he needed me to jack up the engine and gearbox whilst was holding it in place when we changed the clutch. Yeah and the c1 box is significantly lighter [emoji23]. I don't mind doing clutch's like that all day. Little jap stuff is so nice to work on. I've been thinking about importing a kei car for years now. Got a weird affinity for them. Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashbarnard Posted May 14, 2020 Author Share Posted May 14, 2020 So starting to think long term with this. I'm planning on driving to Pompeii in Italy next year and this engine leaks oil from every available orifice. Trying to decide if it's time.for a new built engine or a dv5. You can pick up a sub 40k dv5 currently for less than £1000 which sounds like a lot but a fully built engine would be about the same. So I'm currently scheming that. I suspect that mapping would be achievable and afaik the wiring is dam near the same minus a terminating a few plugs for things like injectors as all you would need would be crank, cam, egr, map, injectors to run it. Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashbarnard Posted May 14, 2020 Author Share Posted May 14, 2020 Just to add this is in what I call long term development. The car will be staying for good and at some point I'll be buying another vehicle. When I do. This will be kept aslo. Current plans are. In this order. 1-get the dam clutch in2-fit a huge intercooler and make all the adjustments to this bumper as it's already damaged. So when I buy a new one. I'll know what to do3- for performance brake pads of some description4-buy a set of wheels and a decent set of tyres. (Can't be track tyres as auto solo won't let me run sticky stuff) 5- sort something out with the exhaust system, I'm currently running an st150 item6-build new engine up to stop it marking it's territorySent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashbarnard Posted May 15, 2020 Author Share Posted May 15, 2020 So clutch arrived this afternoon at 3. It's now all built up and test drove. Drives lovely specially for an unsprung paddle clutch. Really impressed with how the car performs. Still on low torque map till the clutch is needed in but it's done now. May not be the normal done thing for unsprung paddle with an Luk pressure plate. But I'm going off experience with similar projects. I'd have liked to have kept it oem but unfortunately the pursuit of power demanded more money Here's some pictures of the clutch I got made up and how my afternoon was spent. Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashbarnard Posted June 8, 2020 Author Share Posted June 8, 2020 Just a small update. Done a few small trips in this. Done less than 100 miles so far. Clutch seems to be fine. I'm running the low torque map untill the 500 mile bed in period is over. Then I'll put full torque on. Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zain611 Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 On 6/8/2020 at 11:12 AM, bashbarnard said: Just a small update. Done a few small trips in this. Done less than 100 miles so far. Clutch seems to be fine. I'm running the low torque map untill the 500 mile bed in period is over. Then I'll put full torque on. Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk Have you ever sent you ECU / done an online remap service from HDI tuning? Just wondering as I might send my ECU off to him one day and get mine one a stage 1 map. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashbarnard Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share Posted June 10, 2020 I've used hdi tuning several times. Steve is my go to guy. He mapped the gtd12. I bought kess to do it. I have also sent him ECUs in the past as well though. A stage one is well worth it on these. Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashbarnard Posted July 3, 2020 Author Share Posted July 3, 2020 Bad day today. I popped a boost pipe and my abs pump is buggered. Does anyone know if these are coded to the vehicle or can they just be replaced? I also didn't have black electrical tape to hand. This is more to stop the turbo trying to hit target boost than anything else. It'll be driven as off boost as possible untill this is sorted. Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zain611 Posted July 4, 2020 Share Posted July 4, 2020 23 hours ago, bashbarnard said: Bad day today. I popped a boost pipe and my abs pump is buggered. Does anyone know if these are coded to the vehicle or can they just be replaced? I also didn't have black electrical tape to hand. This is more to stop the turbo trying to hit target boost than anything else. It'll be driven as off boost as possible untill this is sorted. Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk Would you say this might be caused by the remap or just general wear and tear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashbarnard Posted July 4, 2020 Author Share Posted July 4, 2020 Would you say this might be caused by the remap or just general wear and tear? Just general wear and tear. The map obviously puts more pressure in there all the time but well within their limits. Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashbarnard Posted July 4, 2020 Author Share Posted July 4, 2020 So the tape didn't hold. Unsurprisingly. I've now got a steam pipe fitting in there which is rated to 30,000 psi odd [emoji23] then jubilled in. It'll do till I get a proper pipe. Means I can drive around sensibly though and still use the car. Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashbarnard Posted July 6, 2020 Author Share Posted July 6, 2020 Currently considering getting a bigger vehicle on top of this one, I currently have needs for a bigger one. Tools, kids, life etc. Probably a little 1.4 tdci fusion as I hate the focus design and rear suspension, and the front to be fair and how the old ones drive. Oh and the washer jets leaking through, Pas pipe issues, clutch issues, bad dpfs. Basically I hate the focus [emoji23]. Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashbarnard Posted July 8, 2020 Author Share Posted July 8, 2020 Managed to get an abs pump, boost pipe and under steering wheel controls for the radio from a breaker not to far from me for £55 all in. So I've gotta get the abs pump fitted today/tomorrow so that'll be sorted. Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashbarnard Posted July 8, 2020 Author Share Posted July 8, 2020 So I got out today and just put the steering wheel controls in and replaced the leaking boost pipe. What an absolute ***** of a job. They jubilee clip was facing the front end meaning I couldn't get anything on it. *****. But it's done now. I've also procured a dry space to work in tomorrow and do my abs pump then she's all ready for mot. Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashbarnard Posted July 9, 2020 Author Share Posted July 9, 2020 "new" and pump is on. Fuse replaced and the light is out. For anyone reading this apparently the first few numbers of the part number are meant to match after that they are superceded, or so I've been lead to believe. However I replaced mine today with one of a lower part number and it's fine. Bled up fine, lights out, Speedo works, abs kicks in etc. There are a few variants to look out for but as long as yours looks the same as the one you take out and the multiplug is the same. It should work fine. Going from my current experience. Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashbarnard Posted July 9, 2020 Author Share Posted July 9, 2020 Oh yeah and my mot is booked for Tuesday, so.ive been cutting this repair fine. Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashbarnard Posted July 14, 2020 Author Share Posted July 14, 2020 My mate picked the car up today and took for test, it's passed. Only advisory is an oil leak which I know about. It's partially the rocker cover gasket and partially the little valve on the rocker cover. So I've ordered another just to do it. Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashbarnard Posted July 17, 2020 Author Share Posted July 17, 2020 So in march I ordered a left hand seat cable. Fitted it. All good. Put the new handle on in. Second pull handle snaps. Thought nothing of it went into lock down. Recently ordered another handle. Went to fit the new handle. Checking everything over. Snap the cable broke yesterday. FFs. So I merry on over to a friend's house who's got a scrap Mk6. Pull the cable out. Fit the cable today. Fit the next new handle. Snap. Now the new handle is broken. I'm ready to murder someone currently. Excuse the cable tie. I fitted it after to allow the seat to be tilted forward Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted July 17, 2020 Share Posted July 17, 2020 Surely the mechanism is seized unless you're just buying cheap replacements!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashbarnard Posted July 17, 2020 Author Share Posted July 17, 2020 Surely the mechanism is seized unless you're just buying cheap replacements!? [emoji23] No man. Free as free. Even double checked it and lubricated the ***** out of it. These were eBay parts. I need to buy a genuine handle I think. I honestly cannot believe it though. The cables are free. They're second hand this time granted but they're genuine cables. The mech is free. It should be fine. I'm unsure if to buy a genuine ford item or buy some better front seats like from the st170 or something and get them fitted to these rails to stop this issue. Problem is. I really like these specific seats. If it was a 306 I'd have just replaced them [emoji23]Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted July 17, 2020 Share Posted July 17, 2020 11 minutes ago, bashbarnard said: No man. Free as free. Even double checked it and lubricated the ***** out of it. These were eBay parts. I need to buy a genuine handle I think. I honestly cannot believe it though. The cables are free. They're second hand this time granted but they're genuine cables. The mech is free. It should be fine. I'm unsure if to buy a genuine ford item or buy some better front seats like from the st170 or something and get them fitted to these rails to stop this issue. Problem is. I really like these specific seats. If it was a 306 I'd have just replaced them Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk Ah, I know the cheap handles are generally crap but to be snapping cables as well seems mad lol! Genuine handles are so expensive I don't think I'd risk it, unless you still know any Ford techs that could get a discount! 306 seats were everywhere a few years ago, I binned several sets of half leathers as I couldn't even give them away!! Trouble with Mk6 seats is that the handles are all broken, or about to break even if you could find another ZS seat in the same colour. Seems a lot of hassle to swap for ST170 seats but probably cheaper in the long run. Not sure which way I'd go tbh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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