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2009 MK2 1.6 ZETEC (100) Clutch Kit


sonic113
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Ok got a little problem that started a few months back as a chirp/squeak type noise when i pressed in the clutch (even when i rested my foot on the clutch) it would go away. It wasnt that bad so I let it go now its more a scoring type noise and when i press clutch in changes sound slightly. The clucth is not slipping but I think the relase bearing has gone or is on way out, so I plan to just replace the whole clucth kit.

 

can anyone recommend a good clutch kit that's decently priced? I had purchased a tranmech from europarts but when i heard the bad news about these I sent it right away. I probably will bit the bullet and go with LUK but I came across com-line and borg and beck which are a little cheaper. are these any good and does anyone have any recommendations or links?

 

Thanks

 

 

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I have the same issue and found the Luk kit is cheaper on Ebay.

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13 minutes ago, F0CUE said:

I have the same issue and found the Luk kit is cheaper on Ebay.

Yes LUK seems to be the the best but I came across Borg and beck which is cheaper than LUK but if this brand was good enough I might just go with it as its £98.82 all in so a good saving I think.

Here is the link

BORG & BECK CLUTCH 3in1 CSC KIT Ford focus

 

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2 minutes ago, F0CUE said:

There is mixed reviews on them apparently they used to be great until a Chinese company took them over.

https://autoshite.com/topic/22115-borg-and-beck-clutches/

Yeah it seems that way. I think i will go with the LUK from the link you posted. at £135.99 its still about £40 saved for what my local factors are charging for same LUK kit. I doubt we will get a LUK any cheaper to be honest and at least you know LUK seems to be the best about at moment. 

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Defo seems to be the most trusted part.

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I come across a Borg and Beck kit one, both side of the friction plate had ‘gearbox side’. Enough said. 

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21 minutes ago, stef123 said:

I come across a Borg and Beck kit one, both side of the friction plate had ‘gearbox side’. Enough said. 

yeah I think I stick with the LUK one just to be safe, I there anything else Needed for a clutch change on these Stefan? I have changed many old skool clutches that where the cable type but this is my first attempt at a fluid clutch.

Cheers

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Not really, I tend to line them up by eye. Never failed yet lol. 

I prefer to vacuum bleed the system but you can do it by having someone pump the pedal. 

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2 minutes ago, stef123 said:

Not really, I tend to line them up by eye. Never failed yet lol. 

I prefer to vacuum bleed the system but you can do it by having someone pump the pedal. 

excellent, I thought that a seal may of been needed for the connection to the slave cylinder but the new one must come with a new seal on it possibly. Will just get a bottle of gear oil as well and I think that's me good to go then. Just waiting a good day lol!

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Once the box is out, tip it up on end and let all of the old oil drain out, atleast you can fill it with fresh stuff.

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Just now, stef123 said:

Once the box is out, tip it up on end and let all of the old oil drain out, atleast you can fill it with fresh stuff.

Thanks Stefan, I will get all I need an keep you posted when I start the job. Hopefully in the next fortnight if all goes to plan. 

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Just take your time with it. pretty easy job on the mk2, nothing to catch you out. Good one to start with too. 

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Can anyone confirm for me that the LUK CLUTCH KIT 622322633 will 100% fit my 2009 1.6 focus. Its the petrol zetec model (100bhp not the 1.6 Ti-VCT Engine).

I think it does but just need a second option before I make a purchase. Also do any new bolts come in these kits or do we just the old ones?

 

Thanks

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According to the same on autodoc..

 

Screenshot_20190519-125148.jpg

Screenshot_20190519-125212.jpg

 

 

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3 minutes ago, F0CUE said:

According to the same on autodoc..

 

Screenshot_20190519-125148.jpg

Screenshot_20190519-125212.jpg

Screenshot_20190519-125212.jpg

Thanks Ian, I never though of checking it with auto doc but it seems to suitable.

Thanks Again.

 

Capture.JPG

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No probs there is some work involved doesn't seem to hard but alot of dismantling.

 

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any one know what spec of transmission fluid to get or have any links? just ordered the clutch kit and will get the transmission fluid tomorrow so all will hopefully arrive at same time.

Thanks

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It's 75w 90 I used This stuff when my selector was leaking and decided to change the oil and what a difference.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/17/2019 at 12:28 PM, stef123 said:

Just take your time with it. pretty easy job on the mk2, nothing to catch you out. Good one to start with too. 

So clutch arrived today and plan to get all fitted maybe next weekend when kids are off school. Stef I came across these universal alignment tools are they any use? or will a socket do the same job, I can presume that if the clutch is not aligned properly the gearbox wont slip back on as the spindle wont be centre so if box goes on then she is aligned ok is that correct?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-17pc-Clutch-Alignment-Tool-Kit-Hand-Bearing-Transmission-Tool/391796563431?epid=8011025950&hash=item5b38e51de7:g:w80AAOSwPcVVwGZC

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To be honest where I can, I align clutches by eye.

I’ve got one of the cheap plastic tools from the likes of Halfords for everything else. As long as you make sure the friction plate is bang on centre with the pressure plate as you tighten up the plastic cone until it’s solid they do work well enough.

I've got one of those metal kits but in all honesty I don’t think I’ve ever used it. 

Other than that, don’t operate/push the bearing in on the concentric slave cylinder, I’ve seen the seals get damaged by people pressing the spring loaded part in before there’s fluid in it. Obviously it’ll pressed in as the box goes on. 

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1 hour ago, stef123 said:

To be honest where I can, I align clutches by eye.

I’ve got one of the cheap plastic tools from the likes of Halfords for everything else. As long as you make sure the friction plate is bang on centre with the pressure plate as you tighten up the plastic cone until it’s solid they do work well enough.

I've got one of those metal kits but in all honesty I don’t think I’ve ever used it. 

Other than that, don’t operate/push the bearing in on the concentric slave cylinder, I’ve seen the seals get damaged by people pressing the spring loaded part in before there’s fluid in it. Obviously it’ll pressed in as the box goes on. 

Thanks , I did have a push at the concentric slave cylinder when i had a look at the kit  this morning (I did not know nay better Stefan sorry it was before I read your reply 😕lol!) I think it may be ok though.  I will hopefully get it done next weekend. Any advice for draining or refilling gear box oil? I'm not sure there is a drain plug on the box so plan just to drain when drives are pulled out. also do you know what size  socket/key for the refill plug? 

 

Thanks

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I can’t remeber what size the fill plug is, 8mm hex maybe?

pull the shafts out, catch what comes out. Once the box is out just tip it up on end to allow the rest of it to drain. 

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3 hours ago, stef123 said:

I can’t remeber what size the fill plug is, 8mm hex maybe?

pull the shafts out, catch what comes out. Once the box is out just tip it up on end to allow the rest of it to drain. 

I would say about 8mm too as I used a very fat Allen key lol

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5 hours ago, stef123 said:

I can’t remeber what size the fill plug is, 8mm hex maybe?

pull the shafts out, catch what comes out. Once the box is out just tip it up on end to allow the rest of it to drain. 

Thanks Stefan,, will keep post updated when i get it sorted.

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