Stophen

Timing Belt Change - Do I Need to Empty the Coolant?

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Hi All,

Quick question, I'm about to change the timing belt on my Ford Focus Mk2 1.6 TDCi Titanium and Haynes recommend draining the cooling system (2A.6) for better access to the lower belt cover.

Is this a necessity or I can get away without draining it?

Also, would a cleaner like 'Würth Brake Cleaner' be ok to clean the tensioner & idler pulleys?

Many thanks in advance for your help,

Stophen.

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I assume you're changing the water pump at the same time?  You'll need to drain the coolant for that anyway.  The original Ford coolant is also only rated for 10 years so makes sense to change it at the same time as the belt.  You should also be replacing the tensioner and idler at the same time.

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Hi,

Thanks for getting back to me.

To be honest, due to the price of Ford parts I was going to inspect the water pump, tensioner and idler and see if they need replacing before committing myself. I realise it's gonna be annoying if I need to change them after I've done the belt (especially as I would have to do the belt again) but I'm working on a budget.

I thought the Ford coolant should last 'indefinitely' according to Haynes?

I've heard that you can buy service sets for the belt, tensioner, idler and water pump. Do you know of any good brands for this?

Thanks again,

Stophen.

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When a timing belt fails, it's quite often the tensioner that fails rather than the belt splitting. I'd replace it for the sake of a few extra quid. The bearings probably arent as good as they were 10 years ago so also another reason why. Plus it means if you get yours off and its knackered, you dont have to wait a couple days for new ones to arrive whilst your car is in bits. Its definitely not worth stripping down again just to change a couple pulleys.

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Thanks for the advice, I think you are right!

Would it be best to stick with Ford parts or do you know any other good brands to use?

Also, any thoughts on whether I need to drain the coolant or not?

Cheers,

Stophen.

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7 hours ago, Stophen said:

Thanks for the advice, I think you are right!

Would it be best to stick with Ford parts or do you know any other good brands to use?

Also, any thoughts on whether I need to drain the coolant or not?

Cheers,

Stophen.

I would change the water pump and so yes drain the coolant.  I just bought the set from carparts4less for about £100 i think, the make was gates i believe.  Came with idler, tensioner & belt and its still going strong 10,000 miles later. . . . 🙂 

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Hi,

Would this be the kit you bought https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/timing-belt-kit I guess you bought the water pump separately? 

Glad to hear it is still going strong.

Is there any advantage of buying Ford parts over aftermarket ones like these?

Cheers,

Stophen.

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11 hours ago, Stophen said:

Hi,

Thanks for getting back to me.

To be honest, due to the price of Ford parts I was going to inspect the water pump, tensioner and idler and see if they need replacing before committing myself. I realise it's gonna be annoying if I need to change them after I've done the belt (especially as I would have to do the belt again) but I'm working on a budget.

I thought the Ford coolant should last 'indefinitely' according to Haynes?

I've heard that you can buy service sets for the belt, tensioner, idler and water pump. Do you know of any good brands for this?

Thanks again,

Stophen.

The extra tension of the new belt can ruin the bearings in the tensioner and idler pretty quickly even if they seem fine at the time...  I made the mistake of trying to save money on mine by not replacing the auxiliary belt tensioner at the same time as the cambelt kit etc...within days it was whining like a bugger and I had to replace it before it overheated, seized and chucked the belt.  Fortunately that's an easy access one, I would have been gutted if it was a cambelt tensioner!  The whole point of changing the belt is peace of mind that it's not going to break and wreck the engine so it's not worth the hassle of changing it if you're not doing all the other parts at the same time.

Don't take too much notice of Haynes lol, coolant doesn't last indefinitely.  The Ford rated stuff is 'longlife' at 10 years.  If you buy aftermarket stuff it's usually 3-5 years.  Coolant isn't just about frost protection either, it also contains rust inhibitors which weaken over time.  I chose aftermarket coolant as I knew I wouldn't still have the car in 5 years time so not an issue for me.

I bought the Dayco belt kit for mine as that's who PSA/Ford used mostly for the originals, but the brand on the box is usually just the belt, the other parts can be different brands.  Contitech & Gates are also fine.  You should also replace the crank pulley bolt which isn't included in most kits.  And I'd recommend the aux belt as well as they're usually cracked by now.  With the waterpump, it doesn't have to be Ford branded, but just make sure it has metal fins rather than plastic ones.

IMG_20171005_162146614.thumb.jpg.1b8fdd1d0ef0b11b631dce898070ca66.jpg

IMG_20171005_162632196.thumb.jpg.b7e32248340d944fa68380877769d754.jpg

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Hi,

Thanks TomsFocus, brilliant advice as ever!

I will have to put together a shopping list in that case and hope for some good weather! Being in Glasgow though, I could be waiting some time!

Cheers,

Stophen.

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10 hours ago, Stophen said:

Hi,

Would this be the kit you bought https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/timing-belt-kit I guess you bought the water pump separately? 

Glad to hear it is still going strong.

Is there any advantage of buying Ford parts over aftermarket ones like these?

Cheers,

Stophen.

Couldn't see the link !  Just had a look though and i may have been mistaken, I think I bought the Dayco one (£50 - don't forget to add the discount code though!!) and water pump separately.  They've come down in price since I bought mine unless my memory is failing me.  Get the crank bolt as well as Tom has said.  How much was yours @TomsFocus?  I'm sure I paid around £120 for everything!  Should have waited a year but then may have been without an engine instead lol

Are you confident doing the belt?  I can post a few links to my thread and Toms of you want.  Or just start a new thread, a few of us on here have done the cambelt and happy to help if you get stuck...like I did...a few times 😄 

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1 hour ago, Albert27 said:

Couldn't see the link !  Just had a look though and i may have been mistaken, I think I bought the Dayco one (£50 - don't forget to add the discount code though!!) and water pump separately.  They've come down in price since I bought mine unless my memory is failing me.  Get the crank bolt as well as Tom has said.  How much was yours @TomsFocus?  I'm sure I paid around £120 for everything!  

I have no idea lol, it was almost 2 years ago now, time flies at our age. :tongue:

I'll check the spreadsheet tomorrow and let you know.  I am a bit of a bargain hunter though lol, I often spend longer looking for the cheapest price on a quality part than I do doing the job... :laugh:

 

 

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1 minute ago, TomsFocus said:

I have no idea lol, it was almost 2 years ago now, time flies at our age. :tongue:

I'll check the spreadsheet tomorrow and let you know.  Iam a bit of a bargain hunter though lol, I often spend longer for the cheapest price than I do doing the job... :laugh:

 

 

Ha!  I spend way too much time trying to get the cheapest price.  Does my head in at times...... 😄

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13 hours ago, Albert27 said:

Ha!  I spend way too much time trying to get the cheapest price.  Does my head in at times...... 😄

Dayco cambelt & waterpump kit, plus aux belt (ebay) - £82.13
6 litres Triple QX coolant & crank bolt (CP4L) - £13.97

Total - £96.10

Plus I then had to spend an extra £20.60 on a Dayco aux belt tensioner

Not as much as I thought so maybe yours was a little less as well. :smile: 

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Thanks guys,

That's great information.

I've got Haynes which has served me well (so far) but if I run into troubles I will give you a shout!

Thanks again,

Stophen.

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Hi,

Just putting together my shopping list and wanted to check with you guys TomsFocus & Albert27.

1. Genuine Ford Focus Fiesta 1.6 TDCi Timing Cam Belt Kit & Water Pump (including crank pulley bolt) 2008683: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-Focus-Fiesta-1-6-TDCi-Timing-Cam-Belt-Kit-Water-Pump-2008683/182412053903

2. Genuine Ford Super-Plus Premium Anti-Freeze Coolant (6L): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-Super-Plus-Premium-Anti-Freeze-Coolant-1-Litre-Brand-New-1931957/152010322123 / https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-Super-Plus-Premium-Longlife-Anti-freeze-Coolant-5-Litres-1931961/322747303600

3. Genuine Ford Focus MK2 V Belt 1689148: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-Focus-MK2-C-Max-Fiesta-MK5-MK6-Fusion-Drive-V-Belt-1689148/182411107357

Have I missed anything out?

Cheers,

Stophen

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Crikey, you've gone from just changing the belt on a budget to an entire genuine parts stock!? 😮

You can probably get away without the single litre of coolant, I didn't end up opening mine, still had about half a litre left in the 5l bottle. :smile:

You may also choose to buy a locking pin set...but not the one I bought as only one of them fitted lol.

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Yeah, I might have got slightly carried away but when I saw the price of the genuine parts and the fact that they have lasted so long, I thought it made the most sense!

I'm gonna use 'Haynes' suggestion of M5, M8, M12 drill bits for the locking pins.

Now all I need is a sunny day!

Thanks again, Stophen.

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5 hours ago, Stophen said:

Yeah, I might have got slightly carried away but when I saw the price of the genuine parts and the fact that they have lasted so long, I thought it made the most sense!

I'm gonna use 'Haynes' suggestion of M5, M8, M12 drill bits for the locking pins.

Now all I need is a sunny day!

Thanks again, Stophen.

I just used drill bits. The M12 drill bit i bought was too long to lock the flywheel/crankshaft for pulley bolt removal so I just used an m10 and got away with it.

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I'd hate to be so pedantic, but an M8 drill bit is actually 6.8mm (the size to tap an M12 thread). 8mm is what you mean 😎😜

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17 hours ago, Luke4efc said:

I'd hate to be so pedantic, but an M8 drill bit is actually 6.8mm (the size to tap an M12 thread). 8mm is what you mean 😎😜

What kind of M12 tap are you using lol.

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1 hour ago, stef123 said:

What kind of M12 tap are you using lol.

Haha I typed it out as if it was M12 then thought M8 would be a better example for some reason so changed the numbers. Obviously missed changing that one haha

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