Ford Focus Mk2 DPF Error Code P2463 'DPF - Excessive Soot Accumulation'

[Tdci-Peter]

4 minutes ago, Stophen said:

I am slightly dreading now what I will find!

The codes are intended to help, not to frighten!

Unfortunately they can often be a bit confusing if there are several, but saving the log file, then deleting them to see what returns and when can narrow problems down.

To set up Forscan to log data, you first have to connect to the car. Then click on the graph icon at the side, then on the spikey wheel (set up all gauges) at the bottom. This should display a list of available PIDs (readings) for your car. You select a few to log by clicking on them, then press an arrow button which moves them into another column. Then save. Once set-up, this can be used multiple times. A typical set of PIDS would be APP (accelerator), RPM, MAP (boost pressure), MAF (air flow), DPF_DP. time or km since last regen should also be available if wanted, and quite a few others. Selecting too many can be counter productive, the replay display gets confusing, and logging time accuracy may be compromised as the amount of traffic on the data bus increases.

To run a log while driving, first (while parked!) ensure the computer can be securely located, with the cable safely run to it. Check the list of PIDs, then press the start button. It does not matter which display mode (dashboard, scope or table) is used, this can be changed on replay. Then just drive for up to about 30 mins (it can do longer, but navigating in the data gets clumsier with big files), with a full range of engine use from idle to full power & cruising. Stop & park, press the Stop button, then press the save button and save with a suitable name.

This data can then be replayed and analysed at leisure. Screenshots, or whole data files can be posted on this site, though you have to change the name of the file to end in .txt in order to upload it here.

.I have examples somewhere, but am away from home at the moment, my crib flle with the links is on my desktop 200 miles away!

[Stophen]

Wow, thanks @Tdci-Peter for this great guide!

When my stuff arrives I'll give it a go and hopefully can find out what is going on under the hood.

Thanks again for all our help so far!

Stophen.

[Stophen]

Hi @Tdci-Peter & @TomsFocus,

Many thanks for your help so far trying to sort out my DPF issue (especially thanks to @Tdci-Peter for your brilliant FORScan instructions).

I've just got back from my test drive and have attached the log file & test drive results - screen shot & data (I've altered the extension to .txt).

I had a few more faults than I was expecting: P1632-20, P0134-23, P2463-A0, P253F-60, P0490-20 Should I be concerned about any of these?

Looking forward to hearing from you guys, I would love to get these issues sorted before the cold weather creeps in!

Cheers, Stophen.

22 08 2019 DPF Ford Focus Test Drive.txt

22 08 2019 Log File.txt

[Stophen]

P.S.

I've just cleared the fault codes so will see if they return tomorrow.

I started getting a rotten egg smell over the last two days so I guess that refers to the P0134-23? Do you think clearing the codes will resolve it?

I'm a little confused by the P253F as the oil was changed only a month ago and a cleaner was put through the system also. I haven't checked the levels yet, so maybe that's it?

Cheers, Stophen.

 

[Tdci-Peter]

3 hours ago, Stophen said:

I had a few more faults than I was expecting: P1632-20, P0134-23, P2463-A0, P253F-60, P0490-20

The P1632 is an odd one, may be something to do with the charging system. Forscan may have said something about it.

The Euro5 1.6s do have a lambda (O2) sensor. It is possible this is the primary fault. The regen system will not work, and no regens will take place, if there is an existing error like that. Then soot would build up, leading to the P2463 error. That is just a possible scenario, but it does link them together.

P253F is oil quality. The 1.6 sometimes has a water in oil sensor, probably just a simple conductivity thing. Oddly, it is shown on the Euro stage 4 drawing, but not the stage 5 drawing. But these things do seem to vary quite a lot. Whether oil dilution by diesel (from failed regen attempts) could cause this error, I don't know. Diesel is not conductive, so my guess is no. And there is no evidence that it is trying to regen and failing.

P0490 is EGR valve, and again if this was persistently faulty, it would prevent regens.

So clearing codes, and re-scanning often (before a start, seconds after a start, during warm-up, etc) may help show which codes come back first, so pointing (hopefully!) a finger at the primary fault. Multiple fault indications like this are quite common with this engine, and it is not easy to judge what is cause, and what is effect.

I have only glanced briefly at the data logs, but my immediate instinct says there is no fault with the DP sensor. It seems to track the air flow rate (MAF) very nicely. Reads low when it should, and high when expected. It is reading too high for a good, clean DPF, but that would be correct if the DPF is partially blocked. Most common sensor faults are an offset or wandering zero, non-linearity, or slow or hysteretic response. A simple linear scaling error is not a common failure mode.

[TomsFocus]

I don't really have anything else to add, Peter has covered it pretty effectively!

The pressure sensor is working fine but reading very high at the top end, I've never seen over 30kPa on one so far...and that's only at 2600rpm, I dread to think what it would reach at 4000! That will almost certainly be the cause of your soot warnings.

However we now need to try and work out whether the DPF is just getting from general use, or if there's another fault causing it, lambda or EGR for example...

I wouldn't worry about the charging fault, I used to get odd random smart charge faults but they never caused an issue.  I'm not aware of an oil quality sensor on the DV6 in the Mk2 Focus at all so I think that is probably just a glitch fault that won't return.

[Tizer]

@Stophen, I owned a late model MK2.5 Tdci 1.6 Euro5 and although I did not have any DPF problems, I used to monitor it regularly and here are some typical reading that used to get for Differential Pressure.

At Idle - Less than 0.5

Steady driving on flattish roads - Less than 5, At Motorway speeds it would be close to 5, a lot less at lower speeds.

Under heavy acceleration and load it would peak at around 10 briefly.

Your readings are a lot higher than this and are probably what is triggering the fault code.

You could try to do a Static Regeneration with FORScan, but your engine management system may not allow it because your readings are so high.

I also once had a fault code for my O2 Sensor which appeared immediately after a FORScan update. It did not trigger my engine management light or affect performance or economy, so I ignored it and after the next FORScan update it disappeared and never came back.

As per the advice that you have received so far, you need to do more monitoring before replacing anything. 

[Stophen]

Wow, thanks @Tdci-Peter and I appreciate @TomsFocus & @Tizer input also!

As you suggested I cleared the codes last night and then ran a scan on warm up this morning. Fortunately, it only reported a U1900-20 fault, which I think is maybe something to do with FORScan / ELM communicating with the vehicle (pictured below)?

When I first drove away I did notice a change in the burble / sound of the engine. It sounded raspier and I hasten to say rougher than before. The sound improved after about 10 or so miles but it seems to me louder.. 

I was doing well until 37 miles when the dreaded light came back on, so I pulled over and ran a scan. Here are the results:

Where do you think I should go with this now? I guess the system isn't regenerating so I need to do something about that.

The P253F was mentioned to me by the DPF Doctor so could this be a bigger issue than I think or just a result of the DPF fault code.

The P0134-23 / rotten egg smell has seemed to decrease since clearing the error codes, but I guess time and my nose will decide that one.

I read that quite a few of my fault codes can be caused by broken or water logged wires. Would it be a good idea to give these connections a clean with something like this: https://eshop.wurth.co.uk/Contact-spray-Oxidation-solvent-CNTCTCLNR-OXYDATIONSOLVENT-200ML/089360.sku/en/GB/GBP/&SelectedFilterAttribut=%5B%5D

Thanks for the ongoing help, I really want to get to the bottom of this one! Stophen.

[Tdci-Peter]

3 hours ago, Stophen said:

I guess the system isn't regenerating so I need to do something about that.

The P253F was mentioned to me by the DPF Doctor so could this be a bigger issue than I think or just a result of the DPF fault code.

The P0134-23 / rotten egg smell has seemed to decrease since clearing the error codes, but I guess time and my nose will decide that one.

First off, I have to confess an error . I mentioned a water in oil sensor, but on re-reading the diagram, it says water in fuel. I misread it! So if there is no oil quality sensor, the P253F must be a pure guess made by the ECU based on other information. So it is not a primary symptom, it can only be secondary. It may be based on regen attempts, or some related computation.

At the moment, it looks like the primary symptom is the high DP over the DPF, which could be ash, DPF damage, or soot. The ECU can not know, as Tom said above, it is another guess made by the ECU. The DPF Doctor may have done a forced regen, but now you can do one, and directly compare DP results before and after. If the O2 sensor or EGR DTCs do not re-appear soon, I suggest doing the forced regen, to see first if it starts and completes, and then if it changes the DP readings. Be warned, it is very noisy!

If it fails, then hopefully there may be some message about why. If it completes with little or no reduction in DP, then either the DPF is knackered (damaged or full of un-burnable ash), or the sensor is faulty, despite my feelings. it is a bit frustrating for me, I am sitting right now in an office / workshop with full pressure calibration facilities, so I would obviously test the sensor calibration before doing anything else, but it is not so easy for others! However from the mileage and the DP readings posted, I would guess DPF problems are more likely than sensor problems, sadly.

If the regen produces a useful improvement, then monitoring Forscan will tell you if a normal active regen is attempted later, and if it worked. If it is soot, then a cDPF should be able to clear the soot load over a few regens. If it is ash, it will not improve much.

At slight risk of embarrassing Tom, here is his video of a Forced Regen:

 

Regarding contact cleaner, it is unlikely to do any harm by trying. Simply unplugging and re-connecting can temporarily cure a bad contact. But there are a lot of connectors to choose from, not all are easily accessible, and the symptoms here seem too consistent to be connector problems. It is hard to explain the consistently high DP readings by a poor connector.

 

[Tizer]

@Stophen, I was writing this when @Tdci-Peter posted his reply. It essentially says the same thing so I will go ahead and post it.

The next logical thing to do would be to try to do a Static Regeneration with FORScan. You should find it under the service Procedures.

Make sure your Laptop is charged because it may take about 20 minutes. Also make sure there is nothing behind your car exhaust because your Particulate Filter will reach temperatures of around 600c, and keep your Bonnet open so that you do not fry anything in the Engine Bay.

If your Engine Management allows this procedure to take place then do some more monitoring of the Differential Pressure and see if the readings have changed to acceptable levels. If excessive soot is the problem then it should be burned off. If there is too much Ash or FORScan isn't allowed to do the procedure because your DPF is too clogged up then it looks like your DPF will need to be removed and either cleaned or renewed.

This all assumes that your sensor is working properly. 

[Stophen]

Morning guys (@Tdci-Peter, @TomsFocus & @Tizer),

Ok, so from I what I gather I should try a 'Static Regeneration' using FORScan, I'll find a nice open empty space and pop the bonnet.

I assume I then test drive the car as I did before and see if the DPF readings improve. If they don't I guess it is most likely full of ash and will need either cleaned or replaced?

From what I found it might be more economical to replace the part with something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FITS-FORD-FOCUS-1-6-TDCi-07-04-07-11-DIESEL-PARTICULATE-FILTER-DPF-CAT/311946155369?fits=Car+Make%3AFord|Cars+Type%3A1.6+TDCi&hash=item48a1709569:g:BoMAAOSwGY1Zn~FT Do you think in this situation that it would be ok to use a non genuine Ford part, or am I creating problems further down the line?

From what I have seen on YouTube the part isn't too bad to fit (touching wood there is no rusted bolts). Do I then just load FORScan up and clear any codes, or is there more setting up to do?

When you guys say

9 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

monitoring Forscan

do you mean just checking the faults codes or that, and recording live data?

Also, where should I be looking to see if the vehicle is managing an 'Active Regeneration'?

I guess the raspy sound of the engine will be down to the clogged DPF and hopefully once either cleaned or replaced that would be expected to improve?

Cheers, Stophen.

[TomsFocus]

14 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

At slight risk of embarrassing Tom, here is his video of a Forced Regen:

 

 

Crikey...nearly 5 years ago!  The innocence of youth...   270k views now though and still getting regular comments, it made over £60 when it was monetized.  I wish I'd made a better one tbh...

[TomsFocus]

4 hours ago, Stophen said:

Morning guys (@Tdci-Peter, @TomsFocus & @Tizer),

Ok, so from I what I gather I should try a 'Static Regeneration' using FORScan, I'll find a nice open empty space and pop the bonnet.

I assume I then test drive the car as I did before and see if the DPF readings improve. If they don't I guess it is most likely full of ash and will need either cleaned or replaced?

From what I found it might be more economical to replace the part with something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FITS-FORD-FOCUS-1-6-TDCi-07-04-07-11-DIESEL-PARTICULATE-FILTER-DPF-CAT/311946155369?fits=Car+Make%3AFord|Cars+Type%3A1.6+TDCi&hash=item48a1709569:g:BoMAAOSwGY1Zn~FT Do you think in this situation that it would be ok to use a non genuine Ford part, or am I creating problems further down the line?

From what I have seen on YouTube the part isn't too bad to fit (touching wood there is no rusted bolts). Do I then just load FORScan up and clear any codes, or is there more setting up to do?

When you guys say

do you mean just checking the faults codes or that, and recording live data?

Also, where should I be looking to see if the vehicle is managing an 'Active Regeneration'?

I guess the raspy sound of the engine will be down to the clogged DPF and hopefully once either cleaned or replaced that would be expected to improve?

Cheers, Stophen.

That DPF isn't correct for your car, it's the older additive type.  They also lack any sort of quality control...   First one I had to send back because it was so far out of alignment.  Second one still needed a lot of 'tweaking' with a hammer to fit.  Plus some of the captive nut welds broke making it awkward to fit.  Then it only lasted a few months before the constant regens started again.  After almost a year it ended up gutted and mapped out...back before that was quite so naughty.  

If you intend to keep the car for a while, sourcing genuine would be my preference if I was going it again.

You're exactly correct about rechecking DP under similar conditions after the static regen to see if it's dropped.

I don't think there's a PID for active regen, but there is one for distance since last regen.

The raspy engine note comes from the altered timing and post injections during regen, so it sounds like it is trying to regen...

[Tizer]

9 hours ago, Stophen said:

Also, where should I be looking to see if the vehicle is managing an 'Active Regeneration'?

If you monitor the DPF Temperature you will see it shoot up to over 500c when Regeneration is happening and quickly falling back to less than half that when finished. On that car you can also monitor the Throttle (Anti Shudder) Valve, which half closes, but you don't want to have too many PID's open.

I don't remember seeing a PID for distance since last Regen on that car but I never had any reason to look for one.

 

[Stophen]

Thanks @TomsFocus & @Tizer,

I just read your original thread Tom and am assuming that my car has also got the EOLYS system? I haven't had any fault codes come up for that so I assume it's ok (even thought it's done 125,000 miles)..? Out of interest what was the end result for your issue? Did you try and clean it yourself or just resort to buying an aftermarket part which by the sounds didn't really work ...

4 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

First one I had to send back because it was so far out of alignment.  Second one still needed a lot of 'tweaking' with a hammer to fit.  Plus some of the captive nut welds broke making it awkward to fit.  Then it only lasted a few months before the constant regens started again.  After almost a year it ended up gutted and mapped out...back before that was quite so naughty.

I guess to monitor the DPF temperature you have to have FORScan permanently plugged in and review each trip? Out of interest how often should a regeneration be happening?

My fans seem to always be on after I turn the engine off, I assumed they were just cooling the engine but from what I read in your post Tom could it be trying to regenerate? That would also seem to tie in with the engine sound I have been hearing. I do remember the DPF doctor saying that once he had performed the static regeneration the car seemed quieter so it all seems to be making sense.

To be honest, I think this is all starting to point in the distinct direction of the DPF been filled with ash (especially considering it's mileage). I have seen a few people cut them open, clean them out and weld them back together. Have any of you guys had this done or know if it's a good idea? I do want to hang onto the car for a bit longer, but I've got a feeling this could be pricey...

Finally, if the static regeneration fails how long do I have before this issue becomes fatal to either my car or even me...?

Cheers, Stophen.

 

[Tdci-Peter]

1 hour ago, Stophen said:

if the static regeneration fails how long do I have before this issue becomes fatal to either my car or even me...?

Possibly until the next MoT. The MIL (main malfunction indicator lamp) is an MoT fail on cars first used after 2008. The MoT also specifically looks for evidence of opened up or modified DPFs. But no dismantling is allowed. If the modification is invisible and the car passes the basic smoke test, and the MIL is off (but comes on for the ignition on prove out), then it should pass the MoT. It is still against regulations, and possibly illegal, to remove or gut a DPF!

The wording is:

"You only need to check components that are visible and identifiable, such as diesel oxidation catalysts, diesel particulate filters, exhaust gas recirculation valves and selective catalytic reduction valves.

If a diesel particulate filter has clearly been cut open and rewelded, you should reject it unless the vehicle presenter can show evidence that there was a valid reason to cut it open, such as for filter cleaning."

So it is ok to remove the element for cleaning, but you would need evidence. I think that some cleaning techniques, such as ultrasonic cleaning after removal of the DPF, and possibly removal of the element, are quite effective. But not cheap! Cheap quick fix solutions are useless. Any snake oil based treatments will do no good at all if ash is the problem. To get ash out, it must be removed back the way it came in (reverse flush), it can not be dissolved, burnt or forced through the filter.

Have a good scan through the list of PIDs in Forscan, km to ashfull  and km or time since regen, are ones I recall seeing on some 1.6s, but probably the additive type. It should be possible to get a clear picture of if and when the car is doing a regen from some of that data, including exhaust temp and throttle valve as suggested by Tizer. Logging 8 to 12 PIDs should be fine, 12 gets a bit crowded on the display, many more would be unreadable and it might overload the bus if you selected loads of them.

If it is starting frequent regens then soot or ash is the problem, most likely ash. If is not doing that, then we need to look for other underlying causes that are preventing them. It is no good getting a new DPF if there is some other problem.

I think we decided earlier that your car was the cDPF sort, not the Eolys additive type. If it was the Eolys type, there should be a FACM module listed by Forscan, and it is not there in your logs.

[Stophen]

Hi @Tdci-Peter,

Thanks for this!

I will check FORScan for 'FACM module' and hopefully won't see it!

If i'm able to do a static regeneration I will run regular tests and see if I can see anything that looks like regeneration cycles. 

My normal commute is about an hour long with cruising so hopefully will produce some results.

Thanks all for your help so far, providing I haven't missed anything I will let you know how I get on over the next week!

[TomsFocus]

I can't keep up with this thread!

As above, yours is the coated DPF, we confirmed that earlier in the thread I think.

The engine fan never comes on for temp after switch off on these, that's a sure sign it's been trying to regen and failed.  As is the engine note.  As it's trying to regen but not completing even on a long journey I reckon it's past static regen stage in all honesty.

The main issue is actually the oil dilution from failed regens.  It'll cause excess engine and turbo wear and eventually a diesel runaway if you don't make sure the level stays down.  As Peter says the EML is also an MOT fail, as I suspect the smoke test may be as well.

I didn't attempt cleaning mine, it's not something you can do at home and the costs for professional cleaning were ridiculous back then, they might be lower now though.  I bought a £180 DPF and got £60 back from scrapping the original.  I take sone responsibility for the new DPF failing early though, the Eolys system always was pretty inefficient so with my short  journeys it had no chance really.

[Stophen]

Thanks @TomsFocus, yeah this thread is probably running better than my car!

I've had a quote from https://www.catman.co.uk for £238.85, anybody had any experience with these guys?

I found one on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BM11162H-Exhaust-Approved-Diesel-Cat-DPF-Fitting-Kit-2yr-Warranty-EURO-5/182874728516?fits=Car+Make%3AFord|Model%3AFocus|Cars+Type%3A1.6+TDCi|Plat_Gen%3AMK+II&epid=250800929&hash=item2a942ee844:g:WMYAAOSwADxbbZhy (I think this is the right part..?)

I hate to think how much the genuine Ford would be!

Great idea about selling the old one, I never thought of doing that! Did you just take it to a breakers yard or to a scrap yard?

Cheers, Stephen.

 

[TomsFocus]

11 hours ago, Stophen said:

Thanks @TomsFocus, yeah this thread is probably running better than my car!

I've had a quote from https://www.catman.co.uk for £238.85, anybody had any experience with these guys?

I found one on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BM11162H-Exhaust-Approved-Diesel-Cat-DPF-Fitting-Kit-2yr-Warranty-EURO-5/182874728516?fits=Car+Make%3AFord|Model%3AFocus|Cars+Type%3A1.6+TDCi|Plat_Gen%3AMK+II&epid=250800929&hash=item2a942ee844:g:WMYAAOSwADxbbZhy (I think this is the right part..?)

I hate to think how much the genuine Ford would be!

Great idea about selling the old one, I never thought of doing that! Did you just take it to a breakers yard or to a scrap yard?

Cheers, Stephen.

 

That eBay DPF looks right but it's still made by BM cats so quality probably isn't great.  If you do buy from eBay, I'd definitely suggest supplying the reg or VIN for them to check against.

I've never heard of catman...I wouldn't use that sort of site personally.  Did they tell you who makes the DPF they supply?  Chances are it's still BM at that price, and probably the wrong one lol.

I've just checked the price of new genuine ones...£1500!!  And that's on eBay, likely to be more at the dealers showroom lol.

I was a regular at the local combined scrap & breakers yard back then so took it there.  You need to register and supply address and card details etc now though due to so many cat thefts these days!!

[TomsFocus]

Just fyi - This is the same BM cat on eBay, only cheaper - 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BM-Premium-Exhaust-Catalytic-Converter-DPF-Filter-BM11162H-3-YEAR-WARRANTY/163065860436?epid=250800929&hash=item25f77b9154:g:7C8AAOSw9NhbCT0r

And one with fitting kit - 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BM-Soot-Particulate-Filter-exhaust-system-BM11162H-Fits-FORD-Inc-Fitting-Kit/323439033798?epid=250800929&hash=item4b4e77fdc6:g:n7oAAOSwerRblome

 

I reckon catman is trying to sell you the BM11070H instead of the BM11162H.  A lot of ads say these are 'compatible' but I'm not sure they are tbh.  The '70 is for Euro4&cDPF, while the '62 is for Euro5 cDPF.  While they may physically fit, there must be internal differences otherwise they wouldn't produce both!

[Stophen]

Hi @TomsFocus,

2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Did they tell you who makes the DPF they supply?

I checked with them and the brand is 'Delta', have you heard of them or is it just another name for BM?

I've supplied them with the registration & VIN and checked it was a cDPF so I suppose it just depends on what kind of quality it is. To be fair they have been very quick at getting back to me.

Thanks for the eBay links, do you reckon it's worth buying one with a fitting kit?

I guess the only way to find out the one I need is to get the product number of my current one, any idea where it is hidden - knowing my luck I guess under the heat shield!

I have contacted a couple of places in Scotland who advertise DPF cleaning, some stating 98% effective at removing ash & soot to see what kind of cost and time is involved. I'm kinda tempted by this as I would be able to keep my current DPF, but if ash is the issue I'm not sure they would be able to remove it all, especially the way these are designed...

Stophen.

[TomsFocus]

Nope, never heard of Delta.  Can't find them online from a quick Google either which is a bit worrying!  I guess they may just resell BM cats but that would be a bit odd.

Both of the DPF's I mentioned above are cDPFs, but they meet different emissions requirements.  One being E4 and one being E5.  The difference might be just the type approval in the cat section, with no effect on the DPF core, so it wouldn't matter for you.  Or it might be that one doesn't have the lambda sensor for example which obviously would be a problem.

I'd definitely recommend a fitting kit, though you might find it's cheaper to buy separately, rather than with the DPF.  I can't remember where the part number it etched annoyingly, I took a picture which looks like the bottom end of the DPF can but I can't tell whether it's front or rear.

Also while searching for that picture, I found the one of the new BM cat that I had to return...  

 

As for DPF cleaning, if it's cheap enough, that's the best compromise as you keep the OE quality DPF.  You need to check how they do it though, if they're just spraying something in then avoid it.  The only way to get the ash out is by cutting the DPF open and cleaning the core before refitting and rewelding the can.  As you can see from the above picture, there's no way you can effectively remove ash through that orifice!  There is a potential MOT hassle after the above service though, if the welding is noticeably 'aftermarket', the tester may treat it as if the DPF had been removed... 

 

[Stophen]

Wow, was that damaged in post or did they actually think it was ok to send to you like that?

I've found this place: https://www.thedpfcleaningco.co.uk/dpf-cleaning-in-glasgow.php which looks like they do what I'm after. It seems they also produce a certificate to present at an MOT and the price doesn't seem to bad either.

From what I'm reading about this services is the DPF will need to be deleted from the ECU and then re-added / mapped. I'm guessing this is something that is beyond the limitations of FORScan?

Cheers, Stophen.

[Stophen]

Right @TomsFocus & @Tdci-Peter,

Sorry to bother you again but I've just got back from being away and thought I would check my oil level before attempting a static regeneration tomorrow. 

When I tested it I found the level much higher than it should be. Would I be right in assuming that when the system has being trying to regenerate the fuel being used has been leaking into the oil when it fails (the P253F fault code is starting to make sense)?

I guess I will need to add an oil / filter change to my list of jobs once the DPF is fixed?

Also, is this higher level of oil/fuel mix doing major damage?

Cheers, Stophen.