Please, if anyone knows where I can get an engine wiring diagram that at least shows the grounds so I can check nothing is shorting, that would be highly appreciated.

The car is an '07 Focus 2.0 TDCi with the G6DA 100kw/136bhp engine. This engine is shared with the mondeo, c-max, s-max, and kuga amongst others, and is also used by Citroen, Peugeot and Volvo under the DW10-BTED4 engine code.  

I'd gone to see family a couple of hours drive away and it was fine, where it sat parked up for about 12hrs. I went to drive home and there was a drastic loss of power, and low and behold the ambiguous P2263 code pops up. I have grown to seriously hate that 5 digit code. *twitch twitch*.

So, did my research and tried the obvious, cheapest, and most common answers with no luck.

List of things I've tried or replaced:

• Resetting the error codes (and after each subsequent round with the car)
• Checked all vacuum hoses and have now replaced them with a new genuine fomoco pack
• Checked all charge pipes between turbo and inlet manifold, and had previously already replaced one with a hole in it with a new silicon pipe
• New MAP and MAF sensors
• New boost vacuum solenoid
• Swapped the inlet-manifold/rocker-cover with another 2nd-hand one on the odd chance there's a leak

At this point the turbo blew up (core seals totally shot), puking oil down my exhaust and causing a massive thick cloud of white smoke so bad I couldn't see a thing behind me and it wasn't legal to drive. Think it might have been due to all the pressure and heat cycling on the exhaust side, with none on the compressor side, blowing the core seals on a 12yr old unit.

• So... one new Garrett turbo 

It then passed it's MOT with flying colours, much to everyone's surprise. But pulling my hair out by this point as still in limp mode, so started throwing money and parts at it:

• New CAT, in case it was possibly a blocked CAT causing too much back pressure for the turbo to spin up properly
• New gaskets and seals up to and including the exhaust and intake sides of the block, and from turbo back past the CAT. Everything torqued to spec.
• New intercooler as it was looking a bit battered
• New vacuum pump

So, now I find myself with a car even less likely to fail it's next MOT, but still in limp mode due to that damn pesky P2263 code.The remaining possibilities I can think of are either there's not enough vacuum to properly actuate the wastegate, putting it into limp mode, or a wiring short:

• Maybe a small leak in brake booster, as brake feel has changed a bit, and the brakes aren't great. Have tested it with engine on, off, and switching between with foot on and off the pedal, and the booster seems to hold vacuum.
• Or the most dreaded - the wiring. Maybe the MAP or wastegate position sensor cabling grounded somewhere? But I have no idea what the correct readings would be, and cannot find a good engine loom diagram to work from.
• Anything you guys can think of or recommend trying?

Please, if anyone knows where I can get an engine wiring diagram that at least shows the grounds so I can check nothing is shorting, that would be highly appreciated.

I know you've done the pipes etc.., but Have you confirmed by test, that you have no vac leaks, there is a good guide somewhere on best ways to do this. I had a leak at the non return valve at thd vac pump I think, it was on the same engine.

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Good point, will check and get back to you. A small vacuum leak would certainly explain the symptoms I'm getting.

At the mo this car is becoming more of a restoration than a fix-up! 

Eventually got round to properly checking for leaks with vacuum pump and gauge and found a leak in the feed(suction?) side of the throttle control vacuum solenoid (the only bit I hadn't replaced of course), so just waiting on new one to turn up.

13 hours ago, Drd said:

Eventually got round to properly checking for leaks with vacuum pump and gauge and found a leak in the feed(suction?) side of the throttle control vacuum solenoid (the only bit I hadn't replaced of course), so just waiting on new one to turn up.

Keep us posted mate, hopefully it's the final fix 🤞 to be fair the 2.0 TDCi is generally pretty reliable, it just seems that you've been rather unlucky!

Replaced the throttle control solenoid and still nothing, but didn't have time to go through it all again at the time.

So I finally decided to cough up the £15 A DAY charge to use Ford ETIS (had forgotten about it till someone suggested looking there for wiring diagrams) and found a very comprehensive checklist to eliminate causes. Some of the tests required an in-line vacuum gauge (I only had a vacuum pump with gauge), so ordered one and finally sat down to go through it all now I had everything, and discovered no vacuum to the turbo due to a leaky one-way valve, just like Abbadon had suggested, but I had already checked it after he suggested doing so three weeks ago and it was fine! Luckily I had a much more robust one-way valve for bleeding brakes, and that worked a treat! It's now like a different car, so much better.

It really has felt like everything I've tried to fix has just caused the next weakest link in the chain to go.

The entire vacuum system, from pump to turbo, and pump upto the brake booster has now been replaced, tested, and improved.

Lesson learned? - If it's really that confusing and frustrating and the trusty Haynes isn't working, check ETIS. Even if it is at a ridiculous price, It's still cheaper than throwing parts at it. Oh well, guess I learned a lot about turbo diesels too. 😋

I hope you hammered the ETIS downloads and got more than your £15 worth 

2 minutes ago, Westville said:

I hope you hammered the ETIS downloads and got more than your £15 worth 

Oh yes I most certainly did! What a con.