scottandcoops

Focus 1.6 tdci help.

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Hi new member here so go easy I've plunged into getting rid of my old fiesta and getting a MK2 ford focus 55 plate the car is in mint condition all titanium Interior 82000 miles but bought it cheap as egr was faulty. So I took it all out cleaned it tested that it was moving and it did so put it back in test drove it and it had no power and kicked so much black ***** out of the back just so slow. So I got somebody to read the codes and got loads coming up but no idea how to sort them or even what's causing them.

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You need to say what the codes are. Codes can stay in the ecu for a long time and don’t have dates on them. So it needs the codes clearing and see what reappears. You should get your own code reader eg from tunnelrat . And forscan software which is free for windows laptop and about 6 quid for android/ apple

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You need to say what the codes are. Codes can stay in the ecu for a long time and don’t have dates on them. So it needs the codes clearing and see what reappears. You should get your own code reader eg from tunnelrat . And forscan software which is free for windows laptop and about 6 quid for android/ apple
Sorry I forgot to put the codes on. I got it scanned before the egr cleaned and after cd2d76bed8d2ef138266f523cf6d6b2e.jpg74723c005bcf44a87b49d18d68fff6ad.jpg5616dd07e5eba6cbf4e6fab3e560c1f1.jpg

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Frozen EGR is usually the electrical side so cleaning won't help, needs a new one.

Underboost is probably because you're losing boost through the open EGR valve.  Or you have a boost leak in one of the pipes or the IC, hence the black smoke.

Not sure on the glow plug module code.  Do you know if the plugs are working alright or does it take a few cranks and chuck out sone smoke on cold start?

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Frozen EGR is usually the electrical side so cleaning won't help, needs a new one.
Underboost is probably because you're losing boost through the open EGR valve.  Or you have a boost leak in one of the pipes or the IC, hence the black smoke.
Not sure on the glow plug module code.  Do you know if the plugs are working alright or does it take a few cranks and chuck out sone smoke on cold start?
Hi thanks for the reply so the electrical side is knackard what about if I blank it off. Found a big crack in the front plastic pipe so guessing that is causing underboost. The glow plugs are a strange one tested all of them and 3 look ok and one when I test it the number just keeps going up and up using a multi meter 4be6a8b561a8143001b42c116c8b46cb.jpg

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12 hours ago, scottandcoops said:

Hi thanks for the reply so the electrical side is knackard what about if I blank it off. Found a big crack in the front plastic pipe so guessing that is causing underboost. The glow plugs are a strange one tested all of them and 3 look ok and one when I test it the number just keeps going up and up using a multi meter 4be6a8b561a8143001b42c116c8b46cb.jpg

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Blanking it off still won't work as that's mechanical rather than electrical.  The only fix is to either replace the whole thing or have it mapped out electronically as well as blanked.  You can buy cheap, warrantied EGR's for these on ebay...I'd probably risk that tbh.

Yep, that big crack will be your underboost and black smoke so that's an easy fix! :smile: 

Hmm, sounds like one of your glow plugs may be duff then.  I'd get the boost pipe and EGR fixed before going any further with that personally.

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Blanking it off still won't work as that's mechanical rather than electrical.  The only fix is to either replace the whole thing or have it mapped out electronically as well as blanked.  You can buy cheap, warrantied EGR's for these on ebay...I'd probably risk that tbh.
Yep, that big crack will be your underboost and black smoke so that's an easy fix!  
Hmm, sounds like one of your glow plugs may be duff then.  I'd get the boost pipe and EGR fixed before going any further with that personally.
Thank you very much do you think the boost pipe is fixable or need a new one becuae can't find a pipe no where only rubber ones. On the egr valve when I took it out and cleaned it it all moved and spring around and moved up and down. Is there a way to test the electrical side.

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7 minutes ago, scottandcoops said:

Thank you very much do you think the boost pipe is fixable or need a new one becuae can't find a pipe no where only rubber ones. On the egr valve when I took it out and cleaned it it all moved and spring around and moved up and down. Is there a way to test the electrical side.

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You could try some chemical metal on the boost pipe but I doubt it'll hold boost pressure and the movement/heat cycles of the engine.  You can often find them on ebay with a bit of searching - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Focus-steel-boost-pipe-MK2-1-6-tdci-diesel-2005-2010-6m51-6c646-ga/254315965949?hash=item3b3669adfd:g:kY0AAOSwnHZYmvIY

If you're handy with electronics you probably can test the EGR but I'm not sure how accurate you could be with it.  It's a stepper motor/solenoid so you'd need to be able to apply different amounts of power to check it opens in increments rather than either fully open or fully closed.  It's also intermittent from your code reader so might work fine during test but not out on the road.  Honestly, I've just replaced them with the sort of codes you're getting, especially the frozen EGR, and haven't gone wrong so far!  They're the same fitted to pretty much everything with a 1.6 diesel in the mid 2000s, Fords, Peugeots, Citroens, Volvo's, Mini's, Suzukis etc...there are loads of cheap aftermarket ones about.

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You could try some chemical metal on the boost pipe but I doubt it'll hold boost pressure and the movement/heat cycles of the engine.  You can often find them on ebay with a bit of searching - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Focus-steel-boost-pipe-MK2-1-6-tdci-diesel-2005-2010-6m51-6c646-ga/254315965949?hash=item3b3669adfd:g:kY0AAOSwnHZYmvIY
If you're handy with electronics you probably can test the EGR but I'm not sure how accurate you could be with it.  It's a stepper motor/solenoid so you'd need to be able to apply different amounts of power to check it opens in increments rather than either fully open or fully closed.  It's also intermittent from your code reader so might work fine during test but not out on the road.  Honestly, I've just replaced them with the sort of codes you're getting, especially the frozen EGR, and haven't gone wrong so far!  They're the same fitted to pretty much everything with a 1.6 diesel in the mid 2000s, Fords, Peugeots, Citroens, Volvo's, Mini's, Suzukis etc...there are loads of cheap aftermarket ones about.
Thanks again buddy IL get one eBay £40 then blank it off.

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2 minutes ago, scottandcoops said:

Thanks again buddy IL get one eBay £40 then blank it off.

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No worries.  If you do blank it off, you'll need to map it out as well, blanking them brings the EML on on these engines.

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No worries.  If you do blank it off, you'll need to map it out as well, blanking them brings the EML on on these engines.
Thinking I should have gone petrol with all this hassel had a old fiesta 1.2 for 3 year and only had to buy tyres for it.

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1 minute ago, scottandcoops said:

Thinking I should have gone petrol with all this hassel had a old fiesta 1.2 for 3 year and only had to buy tyres for it.

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Tbf it's an old car now and you did buy it knowing about the EGR fault lol.  I owned a facelift one for 3.5 years and didn't have any major problems except the DPF but the 1.6 engine is a bit more delicate and complicated than the old 1.25 petrols.  Cheaper to run and more powerful though so it's swings and roundabouts really.

Is yours a DPF model out of interest?

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Tbf it's an old car now and you did buy it knowing about the EGR fault lol.  I owned a facelift one for 3.5 years and didn't have any major problems except the DPF but the 1.6 engine is a bit more delicate and complicated than the old 1.25 petrols.  Cheaper to run and more powerful though so it's swings and roundabouts really.
Is yours a DPF model out of interest?
No dpf thank god that's just another thing to go wrong lol. always had petrols first time having a diesel. I got the car really cheap. Last person put full titiumn interior in it. 80.000 miles no rust on it. And for some reason made it look like a st which iam not liking due to not been fast as a st lol.

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1 minute ago, scottandcoops said:

No dpf thank god that's just another thing to go wrong lol. always had petrols first time having a diesel. I got the car really cheap. Last person put full titiumn interior in it. 80.000 miles no rust on it. And for some reason made it look like a st which iam not liking due to not been fast as a st lol.

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Haha, yeah you've done well to get a non-DPF model, that would almost certainly need replacement by now if not already done!

With all those mods it seems odd the previous owner didn't remap it at the same time lol.

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Haha, yeah you've done well to get a non-DPF model, that would almost certainly need replacement by now if not already done!
With all those mods it seems odd the previous owner didn't remap it at the same time lol.
Apparently he didn't remap because was told that if you do it kills your engine and puts more wear on the parts so In time engine wont last as long I don't know how true that is.

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2 minutes ago, scottandcoops said:

Apparently he didn't remap because was told that if you do it kills your engine and puts more wear on the parts so In time engine wont last as long I don't know how true that is.

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Not true at all if you get a decent map!  Mine was mapped to 140bhp (with DPF & EGR removed) for over 2 years and no problems at all, still going strong now with the new owner... 

Cheap remap or tuning box is likely to cause damage though.

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Not true at all if you get a decent map!  Mine was mapped to 140bhp (with DPF & EGR removed) for over 2 years and no problems at all, still going strong now with the new owner... 
Cheap remap or tuning box is likely to cause damage though.
Do you still for through a mot. Or do you get a "mates one". Iam 100% getting new egr blank it then delete on a remap. Tbh I don't even know my bhp on this engine sure I read there is 3 different ones.

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I've remapped many diesels.  Never had a problem with MOT or turbo etc because I got decent maps that didn't go right to the edge of the engine or gearbox tolerances.  

 

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1 hour ago, scottandcoops said:

Do you still for through a mot. Or do you get a "mates one". Iam 100% getting new egr blank it then delete on a remap. Tbh I don't even know my bhp on this engine sure I read there is 3 different ones.

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DPF and EGR removal is now MOT fail, I sold the car when the regulations changed.  It has passed MOT since but I don't know if the new owner refitted the DPF and had it mapped again.

Yours will be 90bhp as you don't have a DPF.

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Had to get it welded becuse couldn't find a pipe so quick and all eBay only had one. Brand new looking at £130 plus I got it welded for £25 5968e098b5c70c2a5d70e55388fe0c2f.jpgc6764f6b7be05a66efcc2c83c8635628.jpg

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You don't hang about lol!  

Got it all on car feels like a new car plenty of boost no black smoke. I did disconnect the egr to see what happend and seems ok will it be ok or will I still need a new egr valve then blank it off isn't disconnecting the egr same as blanking it off.

 

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Good to hear that's one fault fixed then!

The engine light will eventually come on if you leave the EGR unplugged.  You're welcome to leave it for now and see how long it takes though.  It might drop into limp mode depending on which code it triggers but it won't be anything worse than that.

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Good to hear that's one fault fixed then!
The engine light will eventually come on if you leave the EGR unplugged.  You're welcome to leave it for now and see how long it takes though.  It might drop into limp mode depending on which code it triggers but it won't be anything worse than that.
Cheers got a daft question isn't disconnecting the egr same as putting a new one on and then blanking it.

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