Got my car back from the dealer and it's a weird one... They've improved the passenger side buzzing from the speakers however haven't put something back into the door correctly so at certain frequencies it's more of a drone than a buzz.. 

They completely ignored the driver side for the same problem. 

B pillar issue is still present though I can't figure out exactly where it's coming from (high or low) more of a faint buzz but almost constant when driving. 

 Windows must have come out of the factory seated incorrectly because they're dead quiet now which is a plus! 

RE the comment on sound deadening, I agree to a certain extent - think the inherent issue is that with larger doors there's more space for noises to resonate. Didn't have these issues with my MK8 ST (just problems with Sync 😂) 

I'm half tempted to take the car down to my local audio specialist and get them to strip and pad the front doors - send the invoice to Ford and my three job cards in the post... Will leave the B pillar to the dealer because of curtain airbags 🤷‍♂️ 

 Rattle from rear LH rear but cannot locate , sounds like clicking relay rattle

2020 active  X  estate.   Any ideas?

seen posts from August with same 

Hi, 

yes I have a clicking relay too on my 69 plate active x estate somewhere near the rear near side, drives me mad. I have the pan roof, seems to be worse when it’s cold outside. Any ideas anyone?

thanks, 

Simon 

Thanks Simon,

Does anyone know how to remove the rear courtesy lamps above the rear doors  pano roof model  so that I can eliminate it as a source of annoying clicking rattle  2020 active x estate

thanks

I have a couple of rattles.

The first one I though was something sparking behind the dashboard whenever I was turning right, now I think that something like a screw might be rolling around in there somewhere.

The 2nd one is around the steering wheel, it sounds like a cable rubbing against something, it started after I got home from Scotland and the track leading to our cottage was very pot holey, I suspect may have worked itself loose.

 

Just collected my estate from main agent. Rattle appears solved ,rattle coming from above the roof lining alongside the pano roof . Some mention of double sided tape.Ford have a TSB on this issue.Sunroof blind needed needed re initialising to close properly afterwards.

Good evening from Greece my friends!

First of all i would like to apologize for my poor english...so if you find some mistakes to my orthography or my vocabulary/grammar just say it straight, there is no misunderstanding i am a good listener...

I have some issues with my Ford Focus Ecoblue 1.500cc /120hp diesel/Busines Connected edition.

I bought it new last December 2020 and i now have 2.500 kms on the odometer.

It is a very beautiful car (based to my car aesthetics always) and steady at curves with a nice cockpit and salon.

My objection is the rattling (or clicking) sound coming under the bonnet from the right side of the engine when it is cold at morning start or when it is not in a move for a long period...Metallic sounds that making me anxious every time i start my car cold.

When it is getting warm, it starts eliminating that sound and slowly stops after a while.

I am in the breaking in phase and i am driving it with extreme caution reving it to 2.250 rpm max to every gear change.

I never push the gas pedal hard and i am driving it very carefully especially when it is cold.

Could someone tell me why my car has these weird metallic sounds under the bonnet when it is cold?

Does anyone have the same car with the same problem? (If this is a problem of course...)

I have noticed a little oil consumption from the engine at about 450 ml (2.500 kms to the odometer) less to the dipstick.

I am afraid that Greece's climate needs a little thicker engine oil...let's say a 5w-30 synthetic in my opinion is better than 0w-20 that Ford suggests for my engine.

But Ford's engineers in Greece insist to 0w20 fully synthetic...

We will see at Greece's summer temperatures how strong is 0w-20  viscosity...I am talking about 38-40 degrees of celcium daily temperatures and stucked sometimes to heavy traffic for an hour and more.

I hope all of us have health and having fun..

Everyone have a good night!!!

Alex,Athens/Greece.

Better English than most of the members on this forum! In fact better English than half of Scotland. 
Welcome ..

I havent heard or noticed any clicking from cold in ours tbh but will keep it in mind and listen for it over the next few days. 

Intresting that you take you gear changes at over 2000rpm ours rarely goes over 2000rpm unless it's going up a big hill. I tend to change around 1500rpm.

3 minutes ago, Wino said:

I havent heard or noticed any clicking from cold in ours tbh but will keep it in mind and listen for it over the next few days. 

Intresting that you take you gear changes at over 2000rpm ours rarely goes over 2000rpm unless it's going up a big hill. I tend to change around 1500rpm.

Mr Wino thanks for the apply.

Is it wrong to change my gears to 2.000 rpm and a little bit more? It is my first diesel car i have ever had so i am trying to do my best for breaking in the engine properly.

By the way i have noticed that when i shift from 2nd to 3rd below 2000 rpm it does not have a lot of power to move on for a while so i shift at around 2.000 to 2.250 rpm max when it is warm enough.

Do we have the same ZTDA engine?

Have you ever seen any oil consumption to your engine?

Thanks for the advice and i will try to shift in lower rpm

 

Had to Google what 'orthography' meant...you have a better English vocabulary than I do!  

With your mileage, you should have passed the break in period by now.  It's perfectly fine to go above 2000 in a diesel, though there's generally no need to do so because the torque is all low down.  However, I would recommend giving it a blast now and then, right up to 4000, to keep everything moving and keep the injectors, EGR and DPF as clear as you can.  Driving gently all the time doesn't do engines any favours at all...a bit of blast also means you can use the brakes harder than normal, to keep those free and clean too.

The clicking does sound a bit worrying - and is something I think you should ask your dealer about personally.  If it's a fault, it'll be fixed under warranty.

13 hours ago, Alexis94040 said:

Mr Wino thanks for the apply.

Is it wrong to change my gears to 2.000 rpm and a little bit more? It is my first diesel car i have ever had so i am trying to do my best for breaking in the engine properly.

By the way i have noticed that when i shift from 2nd to 3rd below 2000 rpm it does not have a lot of power to move on for a while so i shift at around 2.000 to 2.250 rpm max when it is warm enough.

Do we have the same ZTDA engine?

Have you ever seen any oil consumption to your engine?

Thanks for the advice and i will try to shift in lower rpm

 

No it's not wrong to change gear at 2000rpm or more it's just the way I drive. IIRC the gear change indicator would light up to change gear in your style of driving. I rarely see it and find it pulls just fine. I suppose you could say that your driving style is perhaps driving in sport mode but actually in "Normal". Enjoy your driving regardless 👍

No idea If I have ZTDA engine but I do know I've never had to top up the engine oil since I've had it.

43 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Had to Google what 'orthography' meant...you have a better English vocabulary than I do!  

With your mileage, you should have passed the break in period by now.  It's perfectly fine to go above 2000 in a diesel, though there's generally no need to do so because the torque is all low down.  However, I would recommend giving it a blast now and then, right up to 4000, to keep everything moving and keep the injectors, EGR and DPF as clear as you can.  Driving gently all the time doesn't do engines any favours at all...a bit of blast also means you can use the brakes harder than normal, to keep those free and clean too.

The clicking does sound a bit worrying - and is something I think you should ask your dealer about personally.  If it's a fault, it'll be fixed under warranty.

Tom, I'm on the understanding that the Mk4 does its regen quite often and also kicks in at lower speeds so long as the car/ engine is warm and has been running for a while. I think the old adage of blasting around at higher revs was left behind in the MK3. I could be wrong though and will ask the Brother in law next Tuesday when I take it in for its annual service.

5 minutes ago, Wino said:

Tom, I'm on the understanding that the Mk4 does its regen quite often and also kicks in at lower speeds so long as the car/ engine is warm and has been running for a while. I think the old adage of blasting around at higher revs was left behind in the MK3. I could be wrong though and will ask the Brother in law next Tuesday when I take it in for its annual service.

It will complete a regen at 30mph as long as you keep in 3rd and don't keep stopping for lights and roundabouts, but that's not the issue here. 

Higher revs gets everything hotter and gets pressures higher in fuel and exhaust to help keep everything clean.  It pushes turbo vanes to thier limits so they don't get sticky.  And the higher fuel pressure and cylinder temps helps to keep injector tips clean.  

I'm not suggesting anyone thrashes around constantly, but a blast once or twice a month is much better for the engine than any fuel additive.

I have bad rattles in my MK4. Passenger side glove compartment.

 

Also the B&O play speakers rattle the door cards/windows, especially in cold, and especially with the bass +2. Annoys the hell out of me.

 

Took it to a dealer once, and they couldn't find anything

9 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Had to Google what 'orthography' meant...you have a better English vocabulary than I do!  

With your mileage, you should have passed the break in period by now.  It's perfectly fine to go above 2000 in a diesel, though there's generally no need to do so because the torque is all low down.  However, I would recommend giving it a blast now and then, right up to 4000, to keep everything moving and keep the injectors, EGR and DPF as clear as you can.  Driving gently all the time doesn't do engines any favours at all...a bit of blast also means you can use the brakes harder than normal, to keep those free and clean too.

The clicking does sound a bit worrying - and is something I think you should ask your dealer about personally.  If it's a fault, it'll be fixed under warranty.

Hello my friend again!!!

First of all i would like to thank you for your applies.

Second, i bought today 1 litre of engine oil that Ford suggests for my ZTDA engine just to add a litlle bit of it (i don't know how much, i am going to discover it at tommorows daylight) due to oil consumption that i have noticed lately.

What is your opinion about that oil?

Is it good for the specific car?

I bought 1 litre (19,50 euros) from a local Ford's dealer here in Athens.

Do you use something different and better in your coutry?

Have a good night!

On 9/11/2019 at 1:46 PM, nick2528 said:

Sorry, it's a rattle thread but i'm going mad and need to know it's not just me.

Can any other MK4 owners confirm that this car is indeed built like absolute s***?

I have a passenger side door rattle that drives me bonkers, tugging the door will stop the rattle for a short period. The doors cards creak loudly when pressed but the rattle itself seems to be coming from inside the door.

I also have a very similar rattle from the drivers side B Pillar or possibly the drivers side rear door.  Again, nothing seems to stop this rattle long-term. The chrome strips around the windows also tend to regularly slide out of place and need sliding back, not sure if this is related?

Does anybody have any suggestions or fixes or at the very least can somebody let me know how to take the door card off so i can just bash it all with a hammer.

My local Ford dealership has a reputation for being absolutely terrible, something i know first-hand, if i take the car in and complain of a rattle it will sit on the forecourt all day before they call and say "couldnt find anything mate".

Any DIY suggestions much appreciated. I upgraded from a MK2 (facelift) last year and i've done nothing but regret it so far as the build quality and gone through the floor! I spent the first 4 months with the speedo needle stuck on 80mph before they finally managed to replace the cluster.....

 

help

 

 

Hello this is actually a very simple fix, in the door card at the top close to the b pillars there is a hook that holds door card in place, this is a flimsy rattly type metal. And the hook is made of plastic that sits within it. If you remove the door card and wrap tesa tape around both then this will completely solve the problem. 

Mines developed this on both sides. Doing my nut in ! 

On 9/11/2019 at 1:46 PM, nick2528 said:

Sorry, it's a rattle thread but i'm going mad and need to know it's not just me.

Can any other MK4 owners confirm that this car is indeed built like absolute s***?

I have a passenger side door rattle that drives me bonkers, tugging the door will stop the rattle for a short period. The doors cards creak loudly when pressed but the rattle itself seems to be coming from inside the door.

I also have a very similar rattle from the drivers side B Pillar or possibly the drivers side rear door.  Again, nothing seems to stop this rattle long-term. The chrome strips around the windows also tend to regularly slide out of place and need sliding back, not sure if this is related?

Does anybody have any suggestions or fixes or at the very least can somebody let me know how to take the door card off so i can just bash it all with a hammer.

My local Ford dealership has a reputation for being absolutely terrible, something i know first-hand, if i take the car in and complain of a rattle it will sit on the forecourt all day before they call and say "couldnt find anything mate".

Any DIY suggestions much appreciated. I upgraded from a MK2 (facelift) last year and i've done nothing but regret it so far as the build quality and gone through the floor! I spent the first 4 months with the speedo needle stuck on 80mph before they finally managed to replace the cluster.....

 

help

 

 

Hello this is actually a very simple fix, in the door card at the top close to the b pillars there is a hook that holds door card in place, this is a flimsy rattly type metal. And the hook is made of plastic that sits within it. If you remove the door card and wrap tesa tape around both then this will completely solve the problem. 

1 hour ago, Alex.S said:

Mines developed this on both sides. Doing my nut in ! 

Yes mine was exactly the same i actually thought it was b-pillars at first and it was driving me mental! took door card off, noticed the flimsy metal hook and was light bulb moment! put the tesa tape on and its absolutely silent now. Its a 10 minute fix. 

I came across this forum while trying to hunt down a rattle of my own.

I had a tinny rattle that I thought was coming from either the passenger door or passenger airbag behind the dash.

Removing the door card and glovebox gave no fixes, but tonight I found the problem... one of the screws that fixes the inner wheel lining / arch to the bottom of the front bumper was half a turn loose. Tightened it up and silence returned!

Hope this might help somebody in the future!

 

 

I've stuck firm sponge on the inside of the glove box and the cubby hole below the lights, the vibration seems much better for now, did silicone spray the rubber where the windows slide up, not sure that made a difference though, the vibration was getting on my nerves.