Good morning

 

I own a ford focus MK2.5 1.8 tdci 2008 plate. 

So now the issue, 2 weekends ago my cousin changed my cambelt including wet belt (ford can do one for inventing this BS). The car was running perfectly for 3 days then suddenly the whole dash lit up with warnings and it said engine malfunction and goes into limp mode. I turned the engine off then back on again and it disappeared for a few days but now it keeps coming on at random times.

Do you think the timing is out slightly? Would that cause an error like this.

 

It's worth noting that the EGR value needs doing soon, and that it has been on my dashboard for a while. it's something Ive been meaning to do.

TIA 

Dave

 

 

6 hours ago, scrappydoo1982 said:

Good morning

 

I own a ford focus MK2.5 1.8 tdci 2008 plate. 

So now the issue, 2 weekends ago my cousin changed my cambelt including wet belt (ford can do one for inventing this BS). The car was running perfectly for 3 days then suddenly the whole dash lit up with warnings and it said engine malfunction and goes into limp mode. I turned the engine off then back on again and it disappeared for a few days but now it keeps coming on at random times.

Do you think the timing is out slightly? Would that cause an error like this.

 

It's worth noting that the EGR value needs doing soon, and that it has been on my dashboard for a while. it's something Ive been meaning to do.

TIA 

Dave

 

 

•  

It's virtually impossible to judge if the EML you're getting now is related to the work you've recently had done or the existing EGR issue without checking for error codes/DTCs.

 

You really could do with having the car scanned for error codes (DTCs) as these may shed more light on things.  If you've not had your car scanned for DTCs for ages/ever then even if you have some codes stored, unless the codes are currently active you won't be able to see when they were triggered i.e. it could be from years ago and not relevant.  You really need to check for existing codes, note what they are, clear the codes, drive the car for long enough to trigger the EML, scan again and any codes you find are then "genuine" and can be used to start to diagnose the issue.

1 hour ago, 1979Damian said:

It's virtually impossible to judge if the EML you're getting now is related to the work you've recently had done or the existing EGR issue without checking for error codes/DTCs.

 

You really could do with having the car scanned for error codes (DTCs) as these may shed more light on things.  If you've not had your car scanned for DTCs for ages/ever then even if you have some codes stored, unless the codes are currently active you won't be able to see when they were triggered i.e. it could be from years ago and not relevant.  You really need to check for existing codes, note what they are, clear the codes, drive the car for long enough to trigger the EML, scan again and any codes you find are then "genuine" and can be used to start to diagnose the issue.

Just scanned it myself, here's the codes... Like I mentioned before the egr has been there for a while

I'd start off by checking for boost leaks, the small 90 degree hose that top left as you look at the car from the front is known for failing over time. The rubber goes hard and typically splits on the underside, it's can  be difficult to see so you'd need someone to rev the engine out whilst you work round the hoses checking for air blasting out of somewhere where it shouldn't.

 

A silicone replacement can be purchased off ebay for less than £10 and will last longer than the car.  The above issue isn't the only cause of the DTCs you've got but it can cause those codes and if it's the cause it a cheap/easy fix.

 

(I assume you've now cleared the codes?)

I've just checked that hose and it isn't split, my previous MK2 had that issue, I had to replace it s few times. I'm going to change the air filter as it's filthy, but I'm unsure that's the issue. 

If the timing was out would it be obvious?

Yes the codes are cleared, but it had the same codes pending so they are back

So I've just taken it to a garage and it has 7 fault codes

15 minutes ago, scrappydoo1982 said:

So I've just taken it to a garage and it has 7 fault codes

The MAP seems like the next most likely culprit I guess.  I'm not sure if there's a way to test it with a multimeter or whether you'd just have to replace it and hope it's the root cause.

 

If I remember correctly, the MAP on this engine is a little rectangular (usually Bosch) thing bolted to the top of the engine that has an electric plug connector at one end and a little (thin) rubber hose coming off of it.  The thin plastic hose is really fragile so it's easy to damage it, which would cause a small boost leak, I know because I broke mine a couple of years ago!  I can't remember what codes it triggered but the engine wasn't happy until I fixed it.

 

Thanks for your help bud, I believe it was the map, the sensor wasn't connected properly and it's been running well now for 3 hours, fingers crossed that I don't see this issue again 🙂

1 minute ago, scrappydoo1982 said:

Thanks for your help bud, I believe it was the map, the sensor wasn't connected properly and it's been running well now for 3 hours, fingers crossed that I don't see this issue again 🙂

 

You're welcome mate, a free fix is always good!