Hi

i’m new to the forum. Thought I’d join for some help because no matter what I try and find on the internet I end up down a Ford Focus rabbit hole. 
 

I have an issue with my 2013 1.6 TDCI econetic. It’s currently in limp mode, losing power, start stop function has stopped working and the gear shift indicator is no longer functioning. 
My independent mechanic said it was a DPF problem, he tried and failed to do a force regen. 
My nephew who is also a mechanic used a tablet like computer and attempted it himself however he couldn’t carry it out as the engine coolant wasn’t heating up. (Picture below) We replaced the sensor and it’s still the same. He did a light test on the sensors and there’s no power going to it. 
Currently I’m reading about vaporisers and fuses but as far as we can see there are no blown fuses. 
Any help or advice would be much appreciated before we fork out more money on a new DPF. 
Thanks 😊 

28 minutes ago, Nicola18 said:

however he couldn’t carry it out as the engine coolant wasn’t heating up. (Picture below) We replaced the sensor and it’s still the same. He did a light test on the sensors and there’s no power going to it. 

The temperature reading on the screenshot of -40C is enough to explain all the symptoms. It sounds like an open circuit in the wiring from ECU to the coolant temperature sensor. The sensor is wired direct to the ECU, so hopefully it is a wiring or connector fault, and not an internal ECU fault.

Forscan can run on a smartphone, and can log the readings from sensors. Double checking that reading would be a good idea. But certainly chase that -40C into its burrow before looking at DPF or EGR faults.

9 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

The temperature reading on the screenshot of -40C is enough to explain all the symptoms. It sounds like an open circuit in the wiring from ECU to the coolant temperature sensor. The sensor is wired direct to the ECU, so hopefully it is a wiring or connector fault, and not an internal ECU fault.

Forscan can run on a smartphone, and can log the readings from sensors. Double checking that reading would be a good idea. But certainly chase that -40C into its burrow before looking at DPF or EGR faults.

Thank you for your reply. This is very helpful and much appreciated. I’ll let you know how I get on. 
Nic

9 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

The temperature reading on the screenshot of -40C is enough to explain all the symptoms. It sounds like an open circuit in the wiring from ECU to the coolant temperature sensor. The sensor is wired direct to the ECU, so hopefully it is a wiring or connector fault, and not an internal ECU fault.

Forscan can run on a smartphone, and can log the readings from sensors. Double checking that reading would be a good idea. But certainly chase that -40C into its burrow before looking at DPF or EGR faults.

Just thinking more on this. Should I get an auto electrician? 
Thanks again. 

1 hour ago, Nicola18 said:

Should I get an auto electrician? 

If you can find one with a good reputation, ideally via someone you know, then yes. I have seen quite a few cases on here where auto electricians prove to be of not much use. All I have to go on is your nephew's tests showing the ECT (coolant sensor) is reading wrong and seems to have no power. These sensors do not get much power, only a volt or two probably, so I am not sure if a lamp test is valid.

The only other point of access to the wiring is at the ECU, which is what my little drawing tries to show. But getting at the ECU connector ain't easy. On the Mk2/2a Focus it needs a roadwheel & wheelarch liner removed for access, then there is a security bolt to drill or grind out, and I guess the Mk3 Focus is similar. I can get a pin-out picture of the ECU connector if needed.

I would try another, more direct diagnostic test (eg via Forscan) before all that work, and it may well be that a garage or auto-electrician will be needed to do the work. But too many just change expensive parts without really doing any proper testing.

At the moment, the DPF idea seems to be a stab in the dark, but without access to good diagnostics it is hard to tell. Even then it is not 100% certain, error codes can be misleading! It needs a combination of computer diagnostics with good old fashioned human and test meter diagnostics to be sure of a fault before changing expensive parts.

Thanks again. The fault codes we had before the tried and failed regens were DPF faults soot accumulation, I can’t quite remember exactly what they were. The fuel pipe vaporiser had fell off at the pump which they fixed and said would have prevented DPF regen. Also an air conditioning fault which the independent mechanic never investigated further. 
My nephew got the same faults but he also got the coolant sensor fault too and he was a bit unsure why the independent garage never noticed or mentioned these. It was be first one that came up on his diagnostics tool. 
My nephew is trying to do exactly what you have suggested with computer diagnostics and getting in about the engine himself, he’s a bit annoyed that we paid a decent sum of money to a garage and we’re still not any the wiser. The auto electrician is someone he knows and as far as I’m aware he’s got a good reputation. When we mention him to anyone they all seem to know who he is and comes highly recommended. 
If you can get the pin-out picture of ECU it would, again,be much appreciated. 
Thanks again. 

59 minutes ago, Nicola18 said:

If you can get the pin-out picture of ECU

I have been having a quick look for references to a vaporiser on the 1.6TDCI (DV6C), but can't find any. There is one on the 2L (DW10C). A bit odd. Maybe it is a special mod for the Econetic, but usually these are included in the circuit diagram & parts lists.

The pins for the ECT are 15 (Bn-Gn) and 19 (Ye). There are at least 3 connectors on the ECU:  A,B & C, but A & B look different, with a row of bigger pins down one side.

A full schematic for the Mk3 Focus is on this site:

 

Again. Thank you. Auto electrician can fit the car in on Thursday. I’ll let you know how we get on. 😀

Just an update. The auto electrician came to the house and got in about the car. The temperature sensor is now inexplicably working. He went through everything he did with my husband and I, showed us what he was doing every step of the way and also made a video of his work on the car for us. I sent him the pin out pictures you kindly provided. 
He couldn’t find anything wrong with the electrics on the car. He tried a static regen and the coolant got up to temperature but it still failed. He reckons it’s the DPF. He was rather frustrated himself as he couldn’t fix the car.  He recommended a company (Diesel engine specialists) he said he knows can find out what’s wrong fix it but at £108 (incl. VAT) per hour and no idea how long it could take we may have to cancel Christmas. 
The next best option we can afford at the moment is to have the DPF removed, cleaned and put back on but apparently that could come with its own set of problems as 2 of the DPF sensors are seized on to the DPF. 
But thanks for all your input. 

not going to pretend I know what's going on, but I can imagine a bad connection has been remade which is allowing the temp reading to work... but now depending on how long that was wrong could well have stopped the car DPF completing a regen and now its passed the point at which its designed to allow it...

one would hope a decent diagnostics kit could tell it to complete, but I guess lots have tried that route so it need to come off and get a cleaned / replaced.  lots of tractors have issues with DPF failing to regen, some mercs are on 7th revision of a DPF sensor, plus software updates to get it to regen reliably.  Tractors are not the right choice for slow drivers who do lots of town work.  And when it does start to regen don't go home and turn it off... drive down a dual carriageway in 4th gear for 20 miles and let it do its job

Last DIY chance might be some DPF additives and go for a long drive then see if you can use diagnostics to force a regen. otherwise take it off and get it cleaned