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Rattling noise from polly belt end of engine


Stinkyfinger
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Hi guys, I got a 2007 Mk2 1.6tdi focus from the brother in law very cheap and it sounds like someone has dropped a bag of spanners down beside drive belts end of the engine. Because of starting problems, Mr local Ford workshop changed the alternator, this helped the starting problem for a wee, while, also the rattling noise sort of disappeared. He then managed to get a car mechanic to have a quick peek, turns out it was the battery, so after forking out a fair few quids, the car starts every time no problem👍👍. But now the rattling noise is back with a vengeance. The in law says that the air con compressor clutch was changed about 3 years ago, problem is, there is a lovely green colour of fluid around the 2 flange connections to the radiator, so it doesn’t really matter about starting the A/C. But when I do press the A/C button, there is no difference in the rattling noise. Possibly the polly belt tensioner pulley bearing??? Any ideas? If it is the tensioner, how the f- -k do I get it off, since there is tension on the spring thing? Then obviously there will be tension on the new one!

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If the AC gas has leaked, the compressor won't come on when requested, so the noise could still be the clutch pulley freewheeling.

The aux belt tensioner has a bolt head on it (15mm iirc), you use a spanner on that to release the tension, then either lock the tensioner or just slip the belt off.  New tensioners come pre-locked, so easy to fit and then just pull the pin once the belt is back on.

Also worth checking the crank pulley isn't collapsing, should be easy to see as they get covered in a layer of very fine rust dust.

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this is photo taken when I was replacing timing belt on my car 1.6tdci fiesta. I took some photos as evidence of it being done as proof if selling the car. Even if someone says it's done and has a receipt for a part, it does not prove it. the whole size pic showed the chassis number in it as more proof. (the car was actually sold to my brother later on so not needed as evidence.

Anyway I released the tension on the tensioner by putting an open ended spanner on where the red arrow points to and turned towards front of car. clockwise if facing the in the direction of the arrow. obviously you need to be careful it does not slip off.

fiesta.jpg

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Cheers chaps. The saga continues, seems like one of the guys in the village, whom I thought was a lorry mechanic, is actually a van mechanic. So I got him to have a peek under the bonnet last night. First thing he noticed was the a/c clutch was a wee bit wobbly, until I pressed the a/c button and the clutch engaged, then the wobble was gone, noise still there though. He then suggested that I remove the drive belt and run the engine to hear if the noise is coming from the toothed cam belt. At least that can be eliminated from the equation. Then it’s either the tensioner pulley, the new alternator or the a/c clutch. Im crossing the fingers that it’s the belt tensioner and not the a/c or cam belt. There is still another 60.000 kilometres to go until the cam belt needs renewed. Admittedly, there is a fair amount of rust lying around the engine and a/c pulley’s area. Maybe once the belt is removed I can wiggle the pulley’s about to see if there is any play. I’ll be back.

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RCheers chaps. The saga continues, seems like one of the guys in the village, whom I thought was a lorry mechanic, is actually a van mechanic. So I got him to have a peek under the bonnet last night. First thing he noticed was the a/c clutch was a wee bit wobbly, until I pressed the a/c button and the clutch engaged, then the wobble was gone, noise still there though. He then suggested that I remove the drive belt and run the engine to hear if the noise is coming from the toothed cam belt. At least that can be eliminated from the equation. Then it’s either the tensioner pulley, the new alternator or the a/c clutch. Im crossing the fingers that it’s the belt tensioner and not the a/c or cam belt. There is still another 60.000 kilometres to go until the cam belt needs renewed. Admittedly, there is a fair amount of rust lying around the engine and a/c pulley’s area. Maybe once the belt is removed I can wiggle the pulley’s about to see if there is any play. I’ll be back.

anyway, I flicked the drive belt off the pulleys by the deft use of a crow bar on the tensioner😉, and started the engine. Apart from the usual diesel clatter from a typically cold engine and the exhaust heat shields😬😬, there was no sound of the proverbial bag of spanners rattling around in the drive belts area👍. And I checked to see if there was any play on the tensioner pulley and the alternator, both ticketyboo👍👍BUTTTTTTTTT, the A/C compressor clutch was wobbling like a twerking champions bottom☹️. So question is, am I able to renew just the clutch, or because I stay in Denmark and with the onset of winter, why do I need an A/C to cool the cabin down, (ok it is handy for removing the moisture), so, is it possible to buy a shorter poly belt and just drive the alternator, or is it actually possible to change just the A/C clutch? Or would I have to fork out a horrendous fortune 💰💰💶💶 for a new A/C ☹️?

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I reckon you could fit a shorter belt, I've done it on previous cars to bypass the AC but not on the DV6.  That's got to be the cheapest answer if you don't use the AC anyway.  

When the time comes, you can just replace the clutch pulley on it's own.

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9 minutes ago, Stinkyfinger said:

DV6?????

Generic name for the 1.6TDCi engine, it's the same one in Ford's as Peugeot, Citroen, Volvo, Mini, Suzuki etc.

Just saves time writing DV6 instead of 1.6 TDCi...although not when you have to explain it afterwards! :laugh:

 

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Twiddled about on google and up popped a you tube thingy of a yank removing the A/C compressor pulley and changing the bearing. Looks pretty straightforward. So I’m going to try this when I get the time, school run permitting. I’ll keep you all posted on the outcome.

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Ahhhhhh, the frigging saga continues. I managed to get the first bit of the clutch off. But I never had a puller to pull the part that holds the bearing off of the compressor shaft. I did manage to remove the rubber dust seal from the bearing and the bearing is like new. But what I did notice was when I was putting the clutch back on again, it was VERY slack on the bearing housing. I suspect this is where all the wobbling is coming from. Also, I couldn't turn the compressor shaft. Possibly just hydraulic lock???!?!!!

so it looks like either a new clutch or maybe even a new compressor and dryer (if I even want an A/C ). So I’m in a wee bit of a quandary. Ask ford ( stealer dealer ) if they sell a shorter multi belt or buy a clutch.

oh and I’ve taken a photo of the bit that the bearing sits in. Just have to figure out a way of attaching it to this thread.

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