Focus ST Advice Please

[jonj1611]

Since my son got his Focus have been looking for one myself, was looking at the Zetec S as I do like the look but also been looking at the ST, my budget is certainly not high around the £3000 mark which takes me into 2006-08 plates, most of these cars have around 100,000 miles on them and yes I doubt they have been driven by grandma. My question is with a full service history are these still viable cars with that type of mileage on?

[StephenFord]

As a generic response, I would say yes. My last 2 x cars, a Toyota Celica GT4 I sold with 174,000 miles, and a C class Mercedes, with 158,000 miles on it. Both had issues but they were 24 years old and 21 years old respectively. The engines were sound on both being regularly maintained.  If you get a car that has been reasonably maintained there should be an expectation that you'll still get much life left in it.

There is no guarantee with any purchase, just look at the posts here of 'new' cars that have faults, but £3000 should be more than enough to get a reliable runaround. I myself spend much less than that and I know that when I go out in the morning my elderly Focus will start first time, and get me where I want to go...

[TomsFocus]

I'd want to make sure any 12 year old/100k ST had had the block mod done, the cambelt done and the clutch done personally.  If you can push the budget up to a facelift model they're better specced, nicer inside and as a result, hold value better too.

At that age and mileage you've got to expect a few minor niggles and cosmetic issues but over all they're pretty reliable.

[dtulip8]

Engine wise pretty bulletproof, but as Tom says there will be niggles that will we need doing and  whilst block mod isn’t such a worry if pushing stock power, clutch and cam belt are a must really.

[WireyWhenWet]

All in all, a very solid car.

Points to note;

Have a drive and see if you feel any vibration up front, the driveshafts are a known weaker area on the ST 5-pots and it's not down to design, it's just how they're driven - Most owners to pull after pull and it stresses the shafts because of the sheer power going through them. Not a massive job, but one to check.

Seals - The focus is known generally to be prone to oil leaks from the driveshaft seals. Don't worry, it's an easy job and only a £3-5 part. Itll take an indie garage 30 mins to swap out and a little extra for gearbox fluid but it's not a big job. Be sure to take a quick look either side and you'll see straight away if theres any remenance of oil on the insides of the shafts. If you see it, ask about it - Last thing you want is a car where that bit has been neglected and the fluid runs out. Not cheap but they leak that little out overall it's a fair one to miss. Take a test drive and look for stiffness in the gears, especially 1st and reverse.

As said, clutch & timing kit - Standard on any car north of 70k really. Look for money off a good example and do it yourself for peace of mind. It's a bit of a pain, but getting a good car with the chance for you to choose the clutch kit is a bonus really. (Just for the love of Christ don't pick Transmech!)

Usual signs of people cheating out on these are non matching/very budget tyres, very worn brakes and generally those that try show off and take you on the test drive and just hammer it to make you smile. Be wary with those, a decent owner will look after the car where they can. Always check the MOT history online as well to see if there are any common problems that don't get fixed, and if anything does come up, did it get fixed and stay fixed. (Theres a few apps to make things a bit simpler for that).

Expect some degree of kerb rash, especially on the N/S/F - They're exposed wheels so it's understandable somewhat. You can usually tell abuse vs unlucky really.

Paintwork, check the arches. Especially the rear. The STs had a bit of an issue with the rear bumper rubbing up on the arches and wearing the paint enough for water to get under it. Not a worry if caught, but something to look for.

 

It's a second hand ~10yr+ old car at the end of the day, you'll know an honest car from one that's dressed up for the show. As long as it runs right and feels good then I wouldn't worry too much. Just keep note of your usual serviceable and you'll be reet!

Nothing really to worry, but just general Focus/ST ownership advice really!

Hope that helps!

[jonj1611]

Thank you very much, didn't get any notification of replies so apologies for the late repsonse.

I have found one just need to go and look at it, just over 100K on it, cambelt and waterpump done at 98K, its a 2.5 focus 2007, bit of lacquer peel on the bonnet but I will just get the whole bonnet resprayed, will be a lot easier than trying to chase the peel.

There is a little bit of rust where the rear bumper meets the car but my sons focus with a similar bodykit has the same type of thing, par the course I imagine, its not rotten by any means and looks like its been treated. I was never going to get a showwinner I guess.

It has a full service history, logbook check shows last owner had the car 4 years and only 3 owners over the lifetime of the car which is a bonus. I was looking at another car that had 10 owners 😕

I will take a look at the seals, I know a CV boot needs to be done, not the same thing obviously.

[WireyWhenWet]

Sounds like you're on to a pretty decent buy there, if a car doesn't have a couple of minor niggles it's usually too good so hope this is the one for you buddy!

[jonj1611]

Thank you, will post back when I pick it up next week 🙂

[jonj1611]

Rather than start a new thread, is there a workshop manual for an ST? I tried Haynes but it didn't cover it.

[TomsFocus]

12 hours ago, jonj1611 said:

Rather than start a new thread, is there a workshop manual for an ST? I tried Haynes but it didn't cover it.

No, but you can usually find what you're after online these days.  If you're after torque figures, try and find a mate with access to Autodata!

[WireyWhenWet]

16 hours ago, jonj1611 said:

Rather than start a new thread, is there a workshop manual for an ST? I tried Haynes but it didn't cover it.

Annoyingly there isn't a Haynes, but for the most part the standard one does just fine for the more generic stuff. I've used mine plenty and have been usually able to work out the slight differences with things if any so it's worth a punt if you find a cheap one as the basics are all the same.

 

As Tom says though, have a nosey online.  They're common and well known enough for someone to have answered any questions you come up with. And if not, we're all here if you're stuck!

[StephenFord]

I'm pretty sure that as already said, this one will do most of your information for you. Anything really specific not covered, you have this forum!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Haynes-Ford-Focus-Petrol-2005-2011-Workshop-Manual-NEW-4785/151485253823?fits=Car+Make%3AFord|Model%3AFocus|Cars+Year%3A2007&hash=item23453988bf:g:RQkAAOSwe25bGVQU

 

[jonj1611]

Thank you very much, it's a shame that they don't cover the ST, Haynes manuals really aren't what they used to be, well apart from the grainy pictures 🙂 Many thanks, will get myself one to keep but erm saying that I have actually got one for my sons car which covers up to 2009, but that's a diesel, I am guessing most mechanical parts, ie brakes and interior fittings etc will just be the same anyway? Well pretty much

[jonj1611]

Ok picked up the car today, good and bad really. Mechanically excellent, everything works, sounds as it should, drives amazingly well etc.

Bad points, rust bubble front and rear arches about the size of a 10p, rear where already mentioned where it meets the rear bumper, front wing the rust bubble is nearer to the front of the arch, someone has also crushed the sill under the sideskirt end cap at the front so the end cap doesn't fit properly, you can tell someone has tried jacking it there. And finally some laquer peel which I knew about on the bonnet but didn't know about on the rear bumper.

Other than that the car seems ok though could do with a ***** good clean.

Interestingly has heated cloth recaro's which you don't see often. It's a 2007 Focus MK 2 ST.

 

 

[StephenFord]

Congratulations on your new car! When I got my 2005 LX there was only one spot of rust on the whole vehicle, from driver wing as highlighted. I thought I could live with it, but after 6 months, I replaced the wing with a new one! I think it helped too that it was the only blemish on an otherwise spotless body. You'll just have to learn to live with the minor rust spots, or consider  some bodywork which is probably not economically viable. Good find on those seats! 😀

 

[WireyWhenWet]

10 hours ago, jonj1611 said:

Ok picked up the car today, good and bad really. Mechanically excellent, everything works, sounds as it should, drives amazingly well etc.

That's the main thing! Congrats on the new buy, hope it brings many many smiles per gallon!

 

As for the rust, find yourself a decent body shop and your be laughing really. You can attempt to adjust the bumpers yourself if needed, but a good shop will have them off, sort the rust and then put them back on but with a bit more car to try and adjust the fitting ever so slightly.

It's a little more money, but it's worth it.

 

For reference, see my before and after here of quite a hefty whack, I had that pinned & pulled, and then all arches & bumper joins done, a small (5-10p) dent in the O/S/R door filled and sprayed, and the bumper top levelled and sprayed for £160 and a 3 day wait. No discounts, just a decent shop.

 

 

[StephenFord]

3 minutes ago, WireyWhenWet said:

... sprayed for £160 and a 3 day wait. No discounts, just a decent shop.

 

That is an amazing price! That must be about £20/hour labour + paint! You on special mates rates?? LOL

[WireyWhenWet]

3 minutes ago, StephenFord said:

That is an amazing price! That must be about £20/hour labour + paint! You on special mates rates?? LOL

Hah! I wish - They price up on a per-job basis rather than hourly simply due to turn over. That said, I had my old man's 320d estate in for 2x new wings spraying up/blowing in, fitting, and both arches done which came in at 200; we supplied the wing but the hardest bit is paint costs, they get it direct from the manufacturer/ LKQ so it's a spot on match.

[jonj1611]

Thanks for the replies, was driving home last night, over 200 miles and the car drove faultlessly, I did think to myself car seems a bit underpowered, couldn't really feel that power as I was driving out the town centre so nailed it on the motorway, suffice to say almost ended up in someones boot lol.

Happy with the car, as for the condition will take some time, can see its been neglected in the looks department, going to try and do the rust myself and get a bodyshop just to spray the arches, hopefully that will cut down on the cost. The bonnet peel I am not bothering with, just going to replace the bonnet, a second hand one with a couple of minor stone chips is about £60, a respray is £250+

More pressing matters to do first, the front panel you take off that covers the air intake is missing all its fixings so have ordered them and bits and pieces, as I said mechanically sound, costmetically a bit naff.

Not sure what to do about that sill though, whether its worth seeing if someone can straighten it, I would like the end cap to at least look right, it seems to be attached with a sticky pad that is coming loose, is that how they are attached in the factory?

[jonj1611]

Trying to keep everything on one thread, just realised the oil specified for the ST is the same as for my sons diesel, does that sound right?

oil I have is Mobil 3000 FE 5W30

[WireyWhenWet]

2 hours ago, jonj1611 said:

mechanically sound, costmetically a bit naff.

Not sure what to do about that sill though, whether its worth seeing if someone can straighten it, I would like the end cap to at least look right, it seems to be attached with a sticky pad that is coming loose, is that how they are attached in the factory?

Hey that's the best way, the cosmetics side just gives you stuff to do rather than have a headache on your hands!

Can you throw up any pics of the sill? It's usually if someone has used a flat-head/pan head metal Jack directly on the sill instead of pushing a few inches forward to hit the chassis.. sloppy work IMO. A block of wood or a pad would have prevented that 😕

From factory it's basically like Tigerseal that bonds them on, although I have seen 3m VHB used before also. Is it bad enough to stop the trim being fitted correctly, or is it more of a naff job that's been done to put it back on?

I've seen sill repair done on a Punto I got t'mother, that was pinned and then pulled downwards from the car being on a 4 poster lift, but that metal was basically tin foil anyways... Same cause of damage, just a much much weaker car overall.

If its decent enough for the trim to be took off, cleaned up and then put back on more neatly I wouldn't worry too much, just check the paint around that area for cracks etc. Where water may get in, a good clean up usually stops it all if its dry anyways. 👍

[jonj1611]

I can push the trim back on and it looks like it should, its just not staying in that position, it looks like there is adhesive which has come away, I will get some pics, will be easier to explain. Sill is proper crushed though.

[WireyWhenWet]

Hmm it may just be worth leaving it for the sakes of not having to risk more metal fatigue/stress on the sill and tearing it if it's so bad, but it should last if it's not rusted up etc. Just very unfortunate. Tigerseal or a similar marine grade/weather and temperature proof structural adhesive will do you swell for that bit of trim for sure, however. A half decent squeezey clamp will possibly help as well depending on what angles you have available.

[jonj1611]

As you can see from the pics, the sill is proper bent and looks like it has deteriated, had an MOT recently and went through with no issues but clearly I think if that sill was bent back it would probably tear?

As for the trim, I am not sure if it is the sill that causing the issue, I think the adhesive has just come away, maybe Tigerseal or similar will be the answer?

However due to rust that I found that I didn't notice I am thinking about just replacing the entire wing rather than messing around with rust treatment and painting etc.

[StephenFord]

You can get a new wing for £90, though I'm sure a breaker would supply a decent enough one for much less...