Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information

2007 focus 109 turbo pressure controller.


Reneg4deMaster
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hello focus fans. I have had a few problems with my turbo boost vacuume pressure. First the brake servo had a leak and was starving pressure and then the vent pipe broke off the pierburg valve so i bought a new one. The new valve doesn't work at all so I bought a febi bilstein one and now that one doesn't work. Could I have bought the wrong pressure valve for maybe the 2.0 tdci engine. My engine is the dpf model with the vnt Garrett turbo. Was thinking there may be different versions of the same looking valve. any help would be appreciated.

20191223_091231.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites


3 hours ago, Reneg4deMaster said:

Was thinking there may be different versions of the same looking valve. any help would be appreciated.

Looks like the right one to me.

The 1.6 uses Ford OEM no 1313848, which comes up as Pierburg 7.00968.04.0 here:

https://spareto.com/oe/1313848

If none of the valves work, then it suggests an electrical problem in the wiring to the valve, or a blocked pipe or wrong pipe connection on the vacuum.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

31 minutes ago, Tdci-Peter said:

Looks like the right one to me.

The 1.6 uses Ford OEM no 1313848, which comes up as Pierburg 7.00968.04.0 here:

https://spareto.com/oe/1313848

If none of the valves work, then it suggests an electrical problem in the wiring to the valve, or a blocked pipe or wrong pipe connection on the vacuum.

The old one still works perfectly but the two new ones don't work in the car. I have reset the values with ford can but no boost with the new valve. Soon as I put the old one back then it has full boost. Was thinking there may be another valve for the wastegate type Mitsubishi turbo 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Reneg4deMaster said:

The old one still works perfectly but the two new ones don't work in the car. I have reset the values with ford can but no boost with the new valve. Soon as I put the old one back then it has full boost. Was thinking there may be another valve for the wastegate type Mitsubishi turbo 

I only saw one type of solenoid listed far all 1.6s. See https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/43/no/0/1658/16036/

Unfortunately it is included in the chassis section, as linked to the servo, so is not engine specific. But the 2nd & 4th pictures are for the DV6, and have the same part. It is called EGR vacuum control, this is an obvious error as the EGR is electric, and otherwise it stacks up.

It is easy to do a basic test on a solenoid valve with a 12v power supply or battery. When unpowered, the actuator port will be open to one of the others (I assume vent), and the other port closed off. Just blow in the ports to test. When powered, the actuator port will be open to the opposite port as before (I assume vacuum pump), and the other port closed off. There is not much difference between any of these valves, they will all have the same three ports, but the order may differ. Differences in coil resistance are possible, but not likely to be the problem here, I guess the ECU would raise an open/short circuit DTC if it was too far out. The size of the flow control orifice in the valve may differ, but that would not prevent all operation. So I would compare the porting of the new valves to the old one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info Peter. whats slightly confusing is the vale on the micrifiche only has 2 ports and they link the turbo and vac pipes together(see pic)

I have tried 2 new valves 1st one an OE Pierburg then the second one a Febi Bilstein and the new ones dont work only the old one with the broken vent works.

I have also checked the port intake, output and vent order and they are the same. 

So now I will do as you say and test the new valves and see if they are operating correctly.

The good thing here is the old valve can still be used but with the broken vent pipe it may suck in dust and water.

Thanks again for the info

Capture.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites


10 minutes ago, Reneg4deMaster said:

whats slightly confusing is the vale on the micrifiche only has 2 ports and they link the turbo and vac pipes together

I am fairly sure the apparent linking is a limitation of the drawing, the one port is hidden behind the other on the pic. They would have to show a three way tee-piece to link the two hoses, but they both have port connection ends.

A system can be made to work with a two port valve, but would need a small restriction orifice in the vacuum line, so venting the actuator did not vent the vacuum line. Even with a restrictor, It would "waste" some vacuum when in the fully vented state, and as the vacuum is for a safety critical braking function, this would not be a good idea!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think your right the image is just for part identification. do you know of any pipe orientation drawings avaliable like this one for the dpf diff pressure pipes.

2011-09-07_170931_cat.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Reneg4deMaster said:

do you know of any pipe orientation drawings avaliable

I have a record of this info on replacement, which describes the positions:

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is where I am with this strange problem.

Today I tested the volts to the boost controller and there was 10.8 at idle but didnt go much over that when I reved the engine.

Cleaned the earths and inspected the loom for damage.

Tested Vacuum before and after valve.

Errors are missing message for engine speed and turbo low boost 

I now have 3 brand new solinoid valves and one old one 

From left to right on the picture is the old Pierburg then the new Pierburg number 3 is a febi Bilstein and the 4th is a FOMCO Part

none of the 3 new ones work which brings me to the conclusion that the old one is also not working but in some way stuck at midway point giving boost acros the range.

Does anybody have any suggestions 

610773062_2020-01-0811_47.02-1.thumb.jpg.6b73eaf739452134528f4f2f2e7e215d.jpg

2020-01-08 11.46.56.jpg

2020-01-08 11.46.29.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/10/2020 at 2:21 PM, Reneg4deMaster said:

From left to right on the picture is the old Pierburg then the new Pierburg number 3 is a febi Bilstein and the 4th is a FOMCO Part

So the working one has no vent port, hence no pipe on the vent. Could it possibly be that your vent pipe is blocked, and so prevents the valves from working if connected?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your help on this Peter I really do appreciate you taking time to respond.

I thought the vent may be blocked then disconnected it and it was the same. I have been driving round this weekend with the new FEBI valve in and it has boost up to 20 psi but if I turn the key off and on again while driving the vgtdc cycle initialises and it gets over 30 psi which then steps back down to 20. I have had another code come up which is dpf differential pressure low and I know its low as before I was getting 5 psi round about when regenerating. now I only get 0.3 psi max. there is also a cracking noise coming from the dpf as it cools down after a run. 

would the ECU only allow 20 psi if the DPF pressure was reading low as a safety/ environmental measure. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just changed the DPF for one I had off another car and no difference but to me it looks like the ecu isn't sending the the signal correctly to the boost valve.

these 3 errors came up today so im wondering if the instrument cluster is the culprit, I soldered the connector block on the back of the instrument cluster a few months ago when it was having other problems im just wondering if i have created this problem as i used a high powered soldering iron and it seems to have burned the board.

2020-01-12 13.01.13.jpg

2020-01-12 13.01.04.jpg

2020-01-12 13.00.55.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, Reneg4deMaster said:

im wondering if the instrument cluster is the culprit,

I doubt if the IC is the fault. The P0299 message is internal to the ECU, all the relevant sensors go direct to the ECU, the decision and the error are all in the ECU, the CAN bus is only used to download the message, and to put the warning light on if it does ever come on.

The P1900 is very common, and can be caused while connecting diagnostic equipment. On its own it is unimportant, especially as it is a previously set DTC.

The missing engine speed (rpm) from the steering module is another CAN bus error, the message goes from ECU to steering direct over the CAN bus, not via IC. The IC could be corrupting messages between other modules, as it is on the bus, but why just that one? Very improbable, I think.

The missing engine speed error could just because the ECU is a bit busy at times fretting about the low boost signal, and does not respond quickly enough. Engine speed comes from the crank (and cam) sensors, if it was faulty there would be serious drivability or starting problems and / or error messages, as these sensors determine fuel injection timing.

The MAP sensor can cause P0299 errors, I had this. On my car it was a broken little hose from the MAP to the manifold, but I think the MAP is direct connected on the 1.6.

Strange DP readings on the DPF are usually cracked hoses between the DPF and the sensor. Very common problem.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is weird now, I disconnected all the sensors and the car goes better now. disconnected intake pressure and temp, bypass valve and throttle valve, maf sensor and dpf temp sensor. the car now boosts low and high rpm but not midrange. still struggling with this not sure weather to buy a cheap second car for 300 quid and swap all the engine management system.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you reckon the ford IDs system would diagnose the problem or is there a better system. I'm at my limit now to what I can do with a car

Link to comment
Share on other sites


3 hours ago, Reneg4deMaster said:

disconnected intake pressure and temp, bypass valve and throttle valve, maf sensor and dpf temp sensor.

Try re-connecting everything except the MAF. Some people have found that if the MAF is faulty, it runs better without it. Puts a light on, but the car can still cope. If it does, it would be worth replacing the MAF.

Most agree that Forscan is the best system for diy use. I suspect the messages & info in most diy diagnostic systems are copied from IDS. No-one is going to investigate & write all that stuff except the original manufacturer. So I would be surprised if IDS came up with a magic answer any different. It would all depend on the experience & knowledge of the operator. And my opinion of most Ford franchised dealers is pretty low. They just read the screen, and change bits as suggested on it.

Swapping an ECU, with the PATS in it, is not an easy option. It either needs re-programming for PATS (Forscan can do it, but it ain't easy), or change the IC and at least the ignition lock & key. With 2nd hand parts, it is all very dodgy!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers Peter,

I tried a new MAF in it and no change, one thing that is strange is there was no EML on during my drive home from work with all the sensors disconnected. What a good car lol.

I have ordered an instrument cluster with 117k on it and my car has 125k so gonna copy the config and Keys over on the weekend. Will use ELM config to copy the config and forscan to do the keys. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Reneg4deMaster said:

one thing that is strange is there was no EML on during my drive home from work with all the sensors disconnected.

That is weird! Did it even raise DTCs for the missing circuits? Sounds like the ECU software is so overloaded with un-planned events that it gave up and just kept the engine running regardless.

I was trying to work out if you were using Forscan, the images of the DTCs looked like Forscan, but I did not at first recognise the little Icon at the top, I see now it is the Forscan Icon! Have you tried any data logging while driving. I am wondering if there is a problem in a wire or connector between ECU and a sensor. MAF & MAP are prime suspects, data logging might just show if there is a bad connection. Other than wiring and the ECU itself, it seems you have checked or changed most of the other bits.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Swapped the cluster today and as you said didn't make a difference. Needed to do it as I burned the board and it was only 35 quid. Anyway I'm no closer to fixing this problem. I am also getting errors communicating with the ECU while using forscan or elmconfig although the IC connected with no problem as did the pats,keys. I tried to update the firmware on the ECU and it came up with communication errors.

 

I made a video of the forscan test see what you think. Cheers.

https://youtu.be/M-tuwLSQKrw

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, Reneg4deMaster said:

I am also getting errors communicating with the ECU while using forscan or elmconfig although the IC connected with no problem as did the pats,keys.

The order of stuff on the CAN bus is: IC, DLC (diagnostic connector), FACM, ABS, Steering, ECU.

If there are errors between the ECU & the DLC, but not between IC & DLC, then there could be a poor connection in the CAN bus between DLC & ECU.

The FACM (Fuel Additive Control Module) is under the back seat, so means a detour in the bus. But the most likely problem areas seem to be the two connectors under the trim near the passenger door. See:

C113 is a little hard to get to, up under the facsia.

However CAN bus errors do not link well to the symptoms here, as you have found, the ECU can control the engine pretty much on its own. The engine speed is derived from the crank sensor, which is used to control injection timing to sub-ms levels, so it is hard to see that the ECU is getting wrong data about it. It looks like the VGTDC signal is the primary error, but in a closed loop system it is hard to be sure. It could be that the ECU is altering the VGTDC a little, and not seeing the required response from the MAP sensor, so is limiting further change to avoid overboost and possible turbo overspeed in the event of a faulty MAP sensor. P0299 certainly stacks up with faulty MAP sensor, it was that on my car.

I tend to use graph format for Forscan data, then I can let the log run while driving, and stop & store it while parked. Then analyse it later. A shot from a log I did some time ago is here.

LOG-3.PNG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing I didn't mention is that I had 2 of these cars and swapped the engines over. Does the fuel pump have to be calibrated to the ecu

Link to comment
Share on other sites

another thing, it's not throwing any can faults now just turbo underboost also its boosting better than it was. do you think it takes time to relearn after all the resetting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is a graph of the fuel system. There is little change in the fuel rail pressure.

Screenshot_20200117-231346_FORScan Lite.jpg

Screenshot_20200117-205742_FORScan Lite.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This morning on the way to work the car is boosting much better. Not 100 percent but getting there. Not throwing any can codes so hopefully it's gonna get better and better.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Latest Deals

Ford UK Shop for genuine Ford parts & accessories

Disclaimer: As the club is an eBay Partner, The club may be compensated if you make a purchase via the club

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share






×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership