Deggsy Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 HI there! Forgive my ignorance, but I've just purchased a 2016 Focus Titanium 125 1.0 Ecoboost (Heads up, I've driven for decades but know next to nothing about engines, I'm just copying this technobabble LOL) in November, a former Motorbility car with not much mileage. It's been brilliant driving around town, but I've only just taken it out on the motorway for the first time, and noticed that when I'm in the never-before-used upper gears of 4-6 and maybe going uphill or getting hit with the crosswinds from the crappy weather we've been having, the RPM gauge will "waver" at times within the 2.5-3 range, and the speed and acceleration does the same before settling. Once, the Check Engine Now light came on, though when I started up the car again afterwards, there was no sign of it (I have no facilities to scan the car computer for the codes for the light). I was worried about this (my last car, a Fiat Qubo Diesel, didn't do this), that it might be indicative of an issue despite it being cleared (I purchased it through a reputable dealer), though people have told me that the Ford Focus is a heavy car for the engine it possesses, that petrol engines aren't as strong as diesel and that my previous car was lighter, and so that it's natural for the Ford engine to work a little harder to compensate for steep inclines and such, and if I face it again, just shift down a gear. I tried it (I'm also conscious of having my foot resting on the clutch more than I probably should), and didn't get any Check Engine Now light on. So, do you think that's it? I just have to get used to handling my new car in a different way? I'm not too worried, as I don't get any problems with street driving (and no other problems with it) and I love the car, but I probably just need some reassurance LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatHead1979 Posted January 16, 2020 Share Posted January 16, 2020 On 1/12/2020 at 10:31 AM, Deggsy said: HI there! Forgive my ignorance, but I've just purchased a 2016 Focus Titanium 125 1.0 Ecoboost (Heads up, I've driven for decades but know next to nothing about engines, I'm just copying this technobabble LOL) in November, a former Motorbility car with not much mileage. It's been brilliant driving around town, but I've only just taken it out on the motorway for the first time, and noticed that when I'm in the never-before-used upper gears of 4-6 and maybe going uphill or getting hit with the crosswinds from the crappy weather we've been having, the RPM gauge will "waver" at times within the 2.5-3 range, and the speed and acceleration does the same before settling. Once, the Check Engine Now light came on, though when I started up the car again afterwards, there was no sign of it (I have no facilities to scan the car computer for the codes for the light). I was worried about this (my last car, a Fiat Qubo Diesel, didn't do this), that it might be indicative of an issue despite it being cleared (I purchased it through a reputable dealer), though people have told me that the Ford Focus is a heavy car for the engine it possesses, that petrol engines aren't as strong as diesel and that my previous car was lighter, and so that it's natural for the Ford engine to work a little harder to compensate for steep inclines and such, and if I face it again, just shift down a gear. I tried it (I'm also conscious of having my foot resting on the clutch more than I probably should), and didn't get any Check Engine Now light on. So, do you think that's it? I just have to get used to handling my new car in a different way? I'm not too worried, as I don't get any problems with street driving (and no other problems with it) and I love the car, but I probably just need some reassurance LOL Hi mate, I used to regularly drive a MK3.5 Focus with that engine on long commutes from Sheffield to Milton Keynes and always found the engine to be smooth and without any "flat spots" i.e. where the power seems to pause for a split second. Modern cars can easily be upset by the tiniest thing so (especially if it's under warranty) you really need the car read for error codes (DTCs), if any are found these might point at an area of concern. Unfortunately DTCs are NOT dated so they could be present for years so really you want any codes clearing and then see how you get on, that way if you have the codes read again further down the line you know that any codes that show up are actually new and potentially relevant. Oh and don't go to Ford to have the codes read, they'll likely charge you £80+ just to read/clear the codes. I'd recommend either a decent independent garage or you could purchase an ELM327 dongle and Forscan lite software (Android or IOS) OR an ELM327 cable/dongle and Windows Forscan software to read/clear the codes yourself. If you search this forum for ELM327 you should find a good few threads with more info on this option and above all, don't panic, if there was something seriously wrong with the car it would usually manifest itself in more obvious ways such as really poor running and/or permanently illuminating the engine management light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isetta Posted January 16, 2020 Share Posted January 16, 2020 if it does it again I would say get your own code reader like suggested above. Many people on this forum including me have bought them from tunnelrat electronics and been very happy with them . There are loads and loads available and very cheap ones but quality does vary a lot so it does help if you buy from a place other people have been happy with. Under £20 (prices include postage, at least it did when I bought) https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/ these can be used on other makes not just Ford - the 'modified' extra switch added means it can access extra stuff on Fords and Mazdas. Software - Forscan is free for windows and about 6 quid for app for android / apple. Forscan is for Fords , there are other free apps whichh work generically on other makes of car if eg. you were using on a friend's car to help them out. Every Ford owner should have one in their tool box. Even if you can't fix cars yourself it is handy for checking stuff to see if the garage is bull****ting you or not. As Damian says: "Unfortunately DTCs are dated so they could be present for years so really you want any codes clearing and then see how you get on, that way if you have the codes read again further down the line you know that any codes that show up are actually new and potentially relevant", this is important , don't get mislead by old historic codes from old temporary blips. Of course he meant to say NOT dated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatHead1979 Posted January 16, 2020 Share Posted January 16, 2020 8 minutes ago, isetta said: if it does it again I would say get your own code reader like suggested above. Many people on this forum including me have bought them from tunnelrat electronics and been very happy with them . There are loads and loads available and very cheap ones but quality does vary a lot so it does help if you buy from a place other people have been happy with. Under £20 (prices include postage, at least it did when I bought) https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/ these can be used on other makes not just Ford - the 'modified' extra switch added means it can access extra stuff on Fords and Mazdas. Software - Forscan is free for windows and about 6 quid for app for android / apple. Forscan is for Fords , there are other free apps whichh work generically on other makes of car if eg. you were using on a friend's car to help them out. Every Ford owner should have one in their tool box. Even if you can't fix cars yourself it is handy for checking stuff to see if the garage is bull****ting you or not. As Damian says: "Unfortunately DTCs are dated so they could be present for years so really you want any codes clearing and then see how you get on, that way if you have the codes read again further down the line you know that any codes that show up are actually new and potentially relevant", this is important , don't get mislead by old historic codes from old temporary blips. Of course he meant to say NOT dated. LOL, I've just edited the post to say "NOT dated", good spot mate 😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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