Hi, 

Brand new to the forums so please go gentle.
 

I have a focus 1.5 tdci ST-line Nav 2016 plate with 28k on the clock and for the second time has cut out while driving on major roads. Lucky enough I managed to limp into the side and stick the hazards on noticing only the LH side running lights and indicators work. (This was a major issue as I was nearly struck twice because the faulty indicators on RH side). 
 

On the dash it had service engine now and key not detected. Nothing would turn off so when the tow truck came the first time they had no clue what was wrong so disconnected battery after trying to stick the power pack on it. 
 

Once car was back in the drive, I checked the battery to which it had 12.58v on the multimeter, checked every fuse in the engine bay, passenger footwell and boot. Changed both key fob batteries and still no key detected even in the emergency start position between the seats. Not a programming issue as unlikely both fobs not to be working. 
 

The car had had full Ford service with last one carried out 5k miles ago but due one this month due to being a year later. Oil level is good also. There was power to the car as we could lock it from the inside but then I realised Ford sold me the car with two fobs missing the key blade to lock the car manually. (Another issue found)
 

Anyway just left it for few days before looking to tow it to Ford then miraculously started to work when I pushed the key fob to open just to see what it would do. Everything flashed up and started. This point the weather was much warmer and noticed all lights working as should. Car drove fine for a week then went out tonight in the cold and broke down again all with same indications/faults. Towed back to the house once again! (Green Flag 👌)
 

This makes me believe it is a cold/wiring issue but a bit worried that Ford will just chase their tales and chin me off as it is just out of warranty costing me stupid amount. Such a crap design this start stop thing just not working either so it could be an ignition problem. I checked manual for help but nothing obvious. 
 

I am trying to go through everything logically and have it written down so Ford don’t skin me out of pocket. I might leave it for a few days again and see if it starts like last time but surely I have some kind of rights as a consumer paying for a dangerous dud of a car even if it is only just out of warranty. 
 

I will be calling Ford tomorrow and the finance company but would greatly appreciate any help before I get robbed out of pocket. 
 

Cheers

Whitey.
 

 

You can get an app or program that ties into your OBD II port and run it real time to save diagnostics and engine running parameters to a file. I've done this in the past with my car, and handed all the data over to the garage to help identify the issue. I use a tablet and mount it to the dashboard, to see what's going on which makes my life easier.

I've had issues with key not detected in cold weather, but it's never cut out on me when driving. I just work around it by pushing the unlock/lock button on the fob and that seems to reset the detection radius. Ford doesn't have a clue what's wrong, especially since it's intermittent.

No experience of a focus of your age but had much pain with a 2008 Focus. On the 2008 focus  there are two computer buses. The High speed (HS Canbus) that runs between the Instrument console and the ECU which controls the engine (and along the way links into ABS/ESP) and the Medium Speed (MS Canbus) that runs between the instrument console and the fuse box under the glovebox (the fusebox has inside it hidden from view a circuit board with computer type chips on to control lights and the other non-engine stuff). Each Canbus is two thin wires which have constant flow of data through them sending computer type signals.  Any problem with a connector in the canbus wiring upsets the whole thing.

As time goes on things get more complicated so, even thought the 2008 focus sounds complicated, the newer ones will no doubt be even more complicated.

So, I have no answers regrettably, just a thought that maybe it is something to do with the Canbus(es) or the circuit board thing in the fusebox (if it is same type of set up as 2008). The combined fuse box/circuit board is sometimes referred to a GEM (general electrical module) or BCM (body control module).

My prediction is that if you go to Ford they will say you should try a new BCM (and that won't be cheap)

Hi,

Thank you both for the reply. Much appreciated. At least you acknowledge with me the feeling that Ford might clutch at straws to get to the fault.

I was advised from them to leave the car in the state it was when the second fault happened so this time I will pay to have it taken to them tomorrow and just pay the diagnosis fee to see if they can retrieve the fault codes.
 

This way I get everything done correctly and starts an evidence trail to have the fault corrected otherwise it will be getting left at the dealership after being sold a death trap. 

I will post the findings of the diagnosis tomorrow. 

P.S The dealership sales manager was quick to say about taking it off us and selling us a newer car trading one lemon for another. 

Whitey

Hi, same thing happened to me in focus 66 plate 1.5 Lost all power on the motorway, luckily I was right next to a layby, the engine wouldn't even crank. Taken home by the AA. Lo and behold two days later the car started albeit with warnings and hazard lights Coming on intermittently. Then one by one they disappeared and the car drove as it should. I forgot to say the stop start had never worked in the six month that I had the car. So installed new stop start and throttle valve because the code came up. Everything ok now, desulphurisation recall by ford( wish I hadn't bothered) l have now diesel air intake fault code permanently but car drives really well. Any advice welcome.

Hi,

It sounds like the battery is going down, I'd test and replace that first.

After that it could be a loose damaged connector somewhere or even a fault on the BCM as you mentioned indicators not working too.

Check BCM for water ingress, this issue should be fixed by your model year, but your car could've had a windscreen change/bump in the past and you have a water leak.

Disconnect and remove the BCM (disconnect battery first) and check all the connector ports for corrosion or fur on the pins.

If there is fur on the pins you will need to change the BCM but you must investigate where the water is coming from and rectify before you chagne the BCM as it will just happen again.

If you can prove car was faulty when you bought it and you are on finance you may have rights to reject/return the car.

It's slightly worrying why both physical keys are missing???

Has it been stolen recovered?

Has it had flood damage?